mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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It's made from bark of a certain tree.. see below: I highlighted it in red and put the reference on where to buy it from the article. The bark is high in tannic acid. What You’ll Need One quart of Heinz white vinegar (in a plastic bottle) One clean, large-mouth quart jar One pad of #0000 steel wool One stainless steel spoon for stirring One basket-type coffee filter One sieve Quebracho bark powder One pint jar (for mixing) Two small containers (quart jar lids are big enough) or squirt bottles Paper towels or two brushes Latex gloves Supplies Van Dyke’s Taxidermy 800-843-3320 or vandykestaxidermy.com 2 lbs. bark tan & dye (quebracho extract) #01347179, $6.39 Price correct at time of publication.
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Nicely done on framing and good on you for fairing the bow and stern before adding the middle framing. Makes things a lot easier. Congratulations on the milestone.
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Wow!!!
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Piet, Define "little to show"??? This is all about the "little" details that are bringing you sub to life. Wonderful work. I'm admiring every bit and piece.
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Beautiful work. And thanks for taking the time to document it. I just had two "ah-ha" moments... one with the wiggler and the other with the rotary table and mounting..
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Is that ebony or dyed wood, Giampiero. Very impressive work.
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Nice work just doesn't do this justice. Great work, either. I'm headed to the Thesaurus....
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Draught horses??? Belgian or Clydesdale? (apologies to Monty Python but this isn't about sparrows).
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Here's two links to get you started on wood selection. http://www.wood-database.com/ http://www.dlumberyard.com/wood.html (click on wood samples to see) For ebony stain, I'm pretty happy with the Min-Wax stain. Works very well.
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Ben, Dremel makes a chuck. I have two Dremels and a chuck came with each one, in addition to the collets. As for a drill press. Is this a screw on chuck? or one with a taper? Micromark might have something....... that might take some searching as I'm not sure where you'd find those
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Mitchel, Rich is right... much like the elephant eating. There's a saying here that comes from one of our scratchbuilders (Remco) "Treat each part as a model and when you are done, you will have more models than most can build in a lifetime". Open a build log in the kit area and just go one step at a time. Help will pop up when you least expect it.
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Danny, The coils look great. The only other way, besides PVA, I can think of is fabric glue. The stuff is supposed to be invisible and water proof or at least resistant. I used it on my Constellation for the ratlines and then everything else that was "rope". Seems to do the job.
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<runs up from behind and 'push'> If that's the one you want, go for it. Open a build log and you'll find help will pop up.
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Aha.... a bit of Googling... http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/member535.html
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- model shipways
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Slog, Just pictures is gray area indeed. You can PM them to John. Sadly, I can't find that copy I had from DDM, Missing some other ones also, guess I need to dig out that HD from my old 'puter.
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Adriaan, While the Tina Turner version is great, I think the CCR version is better personally.
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John, It's a crying shame that we lost Dragon's buildlog in the crash... He had a very detailed how to on every aspect of this ship. I'm wondering.... let me check my HD and a few other places. I might have it.
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All three DONE before you show us????? Then this is to be a suspense log??? Aaaakkkkk!!!!!!
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
The new bulwarks look fantastic. I'm glad you're getting better.- 4,152 replies
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John, What you have showed the promise. Hmm... I'd go with either boxwood or pear. Maybe 1/32" for the framing ?????
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I think "rolling" works... as in "Rolling on the River"...
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Bob, Great job on the planking and obviously, your framing work paid off handsomely.
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Annealing would probably a good thing to do even with a new bit. I believe there's less heat build up drilling annealed brass than with un-annealed brass.
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