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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Just beautiful, Juan. The photo effects on the first few pics are very well done also.
  2. Kevin, Are you sure about the gunports? Back on page 25, photo: http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_07_2013/post-846-0-25777600-1373210833_thumb.jpg I thought the count for ports was right.
  3. Richard, I guess the only answer is "why not?". As long as you are not violating copyright, the plans are yours.
  4. Hamilton, Enjoy your vacation. As for the guns, leave the guns out of the foremost ports and call them "bridle ports". Most ships seem to have those ports empty to allow for better handling of the anchors and for ventilation anyway.
  5. Floyd, What about treenails through the knee and into the supporting structure under it (bulwarks, maybe?)? What I did when that happened to my Scottish Maid (sorry, no photos, it was pre-DDM and MSW), I ran a long 'stick' down the side of the bulwarks. spot tacked with glue to the hull. I put 5 or 6 heavy rubber banks down the length and then began rubber banding what I had overhanging off the bow (about 6" worth). A bit of water on the front area and it came together but ever so slowly.
  6. Piet, Excellent new from the doctor, obviously. It's great to hear that. Pity about that so-called "hobby store"...
  7. Once upon a time, there was a website for model shipbuilding. And a guy named Augie decided to a build a model ship. So he started a build log.... the rest, as they say, is history.
  8. Mobbsie, Nice work on the nets, bulkheads and planking. You are not only fast, you have a high standard for quality also. (And see, at no time did I bring up pies, cakes, marbles, butts, fishing, pictures or popcorn.... oh.. wait..too late. )
  9. As always, excellent work, Daniel. So, is this on your 'test pieces' or on the real model?
  10. Ron, There's several ways to approach this.. the simplest is merely drill two through holes for each sheave and then connect with a recess but not all the way through. A slot on the front and one on the back. If you want make working sheaves, there's different ways to approach this also. 1) Drill the two through holes for each sheave and then connect them such that there's a slot all the way through the bitt. Fit sheave in the slot and put in an axle. 2) Laminate wood together such that it leaves the slot for each sheave. Fit sheave and axle. I used method 1 but only have a photo of the completed bitt.
  11. Ok.. that's good. So it's only on the leg and NOT the hands???? Makes it seem like whatever isn't be transferred that way.
  12. No sweat.. we'll just make a promise to talk about your log overhere on Augie's and let him get the record.
  13. Nice work on the pillars, Toni. Was the duplicator a bit of bear to install and setup or fairly easy?
  14. Gary, Nicely done. I was just curious on the choices. Without much deck, frapping, etc. seems appropriate.
  15. Adriaan.. just curious... are you allergic to nuts? AL uses a lot of walnut in their kits. Or it could be a reaction to one of the other woods.... Hope not, but if so, you'd just have to find another type of wood that looks like what you want.
  16. Augie, Would a moose license be better than a fishing license right now? I realize it's not hunting season yet.... Hmm...maybe the fish are waiting for hunting season to show themselves? And yes... we're waiting on seeing your anchors... <taps foot>
  17. That is some seriously good work going on. The research is paying off with a wonderful build.
  18. Gary, I think the breeching rope would come off the casabel and drape forward of the rear trucks. If it's where it is, down and under the side pieces, the forces would tend to make the cannon "buck".. On the other hand, the training tackle is frapped so I guess they might be that way for being stowed and inspection.
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