mtaylor
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Naval War of 1812 Illustrated now complete and viewable
mtaylor replied to Hank's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thanks Hank. Great looking site. I'm bookmarking it for later viewing.... -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I like it. Cutty is starting to show her lines.- 4,151 replies
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You don't have to go too far to the back of the bus. I'm not, normally, one who throws things. A few years ago, I relief-carved a rose for my wife from swiss pear. Didn't come out too bad, so I figure anything will be an improvement.
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Indeed it will be a big job, Popeye. Thanks for the vote of confidence Augie. I'm taking it one 32-foot plank at a time. At 9-inches wide... it's going to take a bit. I'm thinking I'm going to follow Hahn's lead and completely plank the exterior along with all the carvings. Did I actually say that? All the carvings... <gringe> Anyway, so far, so good. When I get bored with planking, I can jump all over those stoves/fireplaces.
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Lovely work, Ferit. I love the first two pictures looking down and seeing the deck below.
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Thank you, Elmir and Hamilton for looking in. Sjors, Sorry about the long reply. After much thought about "what next" and much fear and trembling... PLANKING!!!!!!!!!! So there's fear because I've never single-planked before. Trembling because I'm looking forward to it... and maybe too much coffee. So I gathered the three planking guides from the Articles area and Planking the Built Up Ship Model from ME and studied. Scratched my head.. said "oh.. nothing to fear".... and got on with it. First step was I realized I didn't have a suitable clamps. So I made 5 of these out of some scrap cherry and maple. No particular reason other than I had a bit <cough> of scrap. First plank on each side is laid. I'd doing the planks from just above the wale to the chain wale. I may go farther up before heading below. One reason is because the planks between the wales need to be sanded and I don't want to damage the wales. Also, need some playtime experience with minimal tapering and spiling. I hope.... I'm using swiss pear for the main planking. FYI... the hawse holes I already drilled aren't on the same plane. My bad. I'll redrill after planking.
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Excellent coppering, Ray. Just curious on why you picked where you did for the gore line? I've never coppered and this is a curiousity to me.
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
mtaylor replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Michael Excellent idea. I posted it in the Important Links section, but not as pinned. I think it would be more appropriate there. I also added a direct link to the PDF: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/stevec/MLS-Topic-Article/BobSorenson/MillingScaleLumberRev-01.pdf -
Matti, I think everyone who has built this kit broke the stem at some point. You seem to be on the right track and with the right frame of mind to fix it.
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Sjors, The new transom looks good. I'm sure you'll solve the quarter gallery problem.
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
mtaylor replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Micheal, What I've seen and tried (with limited success but that could be my incompetence) is run a 'false fence" from the front of the saw to just past the leading edge of the blade. I'm still playing with it and when I figure it out, I'll do pics. As I recall there's some videos on Youtube I also have this link which full of great tips: http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/afv/topic/aff/8/aft/119461/afpg/2/Default.aspx -
Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
mtaylor replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Michael, Valid points on everything. -
Hmm... not all hobby plywood is the same. The European makers use 3-ply plywood. The American makers use 5-ply. Aircraft ply would work if you can find it thin enough. If you're talking RC aircraft ply.. it should be good. But again, any wood product can warp.
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
mtaylor replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Harvey, Even my 10" saw has fence issues. The biggest problem I see is that the fence has to be removable. And since most of us aren't engineers or machinists, they have to make it simple and fast. It might be worth looking into however, and seeing what improvements can be made. -
Robbyn, I did my share in my younger days... And I think the Admiral would have a cow if I brought one home. She's known more than her share of people who got mangled or killed on one. There's some other issues, but that's the big one. You're right about the senses... not just sight and sound but smell... We have a tandem bicycle that used to ride up until a couple of years ago. In the hills and mountains out here, there are sights and smells and sounds you never experience in a car. Especially the smells. I'm going to give Buck his build log back...
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Wow!!!! Looks fantastic!!! Great choice of woods and colors. You should be really pleased with these.
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Beautiful work on the rigging, ZyXuz. Looking really great. Wish I had some idea on the camera, humidity, and fungus, other than storing it in a camera bag with some silica gel. Might take a lot to keep a camera dry.
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Yep, knife and wooden spoon. Some might have had forks, but I doubt that they were standard issue.
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Nice work Mario. Now what this about you have pictures of the caprails but we have to wait??????? Have great time on vacation, my friend. You deserve it.
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Good choice and very nice work. Now... <cough> pictures of it at least in place? Doesn't even have to be glued.
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The cargo looks great. I hope the saw works well.
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A very noble and wonderful project. I wish you luck on getting all the information you need. A lot of the woods that we use for our ships comes from South America. Such as boxwood. Have a look here: http://www.dlumberyard.com/wood.html Scroll down to "Wood Samples" and click on the individual woods. You will probably see some woods you are familiar with.
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Wood filler vs. spackle
mtaylor replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Now that I think about it, white glue and sawdust may be harder (sanding wise) than basswood... -
Meridith, As I recall, Chris Watton is using MDF on one of his new designs. And some of the other kit manufacturers are also. The downside is wear a facemask when cutting it. And it will eat blades.
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
mtaylor replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tony, I have the Accuriser and the Taper Jig.. my overall impression is one of underwhelming. The taper doesn't hold the angle very well, and what was said about the Accuriser is true. I use it only to get a little finer control as a fence replacement. You possibly could develop an Accuriser for your saw... maybe an extra fence, some angled wood or metal and another piece to be the sliding bit. BTW, I struggle with the MM fence a lot. The problem with blades is that Jim uses a 4". MM/Proxxon use a 3-1/4" blade. I'm not sure the 4" will fit. I'll have to do some tear-down and see... Gaeten suggested something that would also work. I'd consider using a lathe and some brass rod or tubing and make and adapter for the blades. It strikes me as totally bizarre that MM sells blades with two different sized arbor holes. I'm also curious if the Dremel blades would fit the saw arbor. The blades are smaller in diameter but there's a bigger selection of tooth count and styles.
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