HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

[Rustyj]

Hi Mike,

 

You are turning out one fine model. Your description of the outhaul block will be very helpful.

[KenW]

Hey Mike.  I like your method on the out haul block.  It seems it could be useful in a lot of situations.

Cheers and Happy New Year.

Edited January 5, 2016 by KenW

[Erik W]

Great info on the outhaul block.  I love these types of tutorials.  You've got to love the internet and helpful modelers!

 

Erik

[michael mott]

Nice work on the ship Mike I like the sequence for the block.

 

Michael

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys, I truly appreciate your comments as well as all the "Likes". .

 

I remember the first SMSNJ meeting I went to where Tom Ruggiero was talking about our tech sessions. He felt that no tech session was too simple to show as there would always be something to learn from it. I never thought that the steps in making the block were anything special and was probably done that way many times before. It's very gratifying to see that I was able to show something different and perhaps useful to other modelers.

 

Mike

Edited January 10, 2016 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

Planking the deck is not exactly what I would call a milestone though it does feel like I'm moving along. . .

 

Though not very scientific, I did come up with a way to get those center planks in a straight line. After setting the first plank at the stern I used a card template at each location along the deck to keep the planks straight. To confirm alignment, I marked the center of the plank at its forward edge as well as the aft edge of the deck structure. After pulling the plank to the card template I could see whether or not two marks matched closely

 

 

The four remaining planks (two on each side of center plank) where then installed using PVA and clamps. I was careful not to glue anywhere close to the red deck structures. Scrap strips were used between the clamp and the deck planking to avoid any dents that might be caused from tightening of the clamps. I don't have any of those high-tech wooden clamps like those used by EdT though the ones from Dewalt (found at Home Depot) worked well enough. The clamp's protective covers were removed in order to get a better grip on the planks. The Irwin Quick-Grips have a more rounded shape underneath the covers and tend to slip off too easily.

 

 

My deck planks are approximately 3/16" wide and in various locations will have a small tab. These have to be made using a wider strip. I tried making one that would have been 7/32" at its widest point using a 7/32" strip. Guess what, it didn't work. There wasn't enough room to allow for adjustments to the shape. I decided to go with a 1/4" strip, which worked quite well. Once the shape was completed it was only a matter of reducing the width to 3/16" outside of the tab location. This is an important step if you want to maintain consistency to the overall look of the planking.

 

This is the plank which goes on either side of the "ventilation scuttle grating", just behind the skylight.

 

 

Once the first five rows were completed, excess glue was removed and the planks were lightly sanded. I will hold off doing the final sanding until all of the remaining planks are in.

 

 

[Rustyj]

Hi Mike,

 

Great explanation for starting the decking and execution of it.  Looking really good.  

[Erik W]

Mike,

 

The deck planking looks great so far.  I'm enjoying these tutorial type posts of yours!

 

Erik

[rafine]

Very nicely done on the planking Mike. Are you going for the curved  planking? It really wasn't much more difficult than straight.

 

Bob

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys!

 

Erik - Thanks for the feedback. I know that there are many different methods out there, some being better than mine, for sure. Still, I really enjoy sharing these things with other modelers.

 

Bob - I plan on doing the curved planking. I hope you're right about it not being too difficult.

 

Mike

Edited February 21, 2016 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

I started lining off the deck today. . .

 

Using a tick strip, the deck beam reference line on the fore side of the main hatch was divided into equal segments. Mine needed eleven, each segment being slightly under 3/16". I divided the eleven spaces into two belts seven inner and four outer. 

 

To establish the two belts down the length of the hull I decided to get the initial curve from the plan and adjust it later if needed on the deck itself. I had already made a copy of the plan sheet showing the deck. I made a few changes to the plan to correspond to the actual build. I placed a thin sheet of glass over the plan and used a ships curve and a fine line marking pen to draw the curve. Once I was satisfied with the run of the curve I placed 1/8" tape along the line directly to the glass.

 

 

A photo was taken and printed so the curve could be glued to card stock. Placing the curve on the deck showed that only a slight adjustment was needed at the location of the tick mark which divides the two belts. With the curve redrawn and a line transferred to both sides of the deck, I was ready to complete the remaining tick marks. Connecting the tick marks really helps to see what the run of planks will look like. In a few places I included the planks tab into the measurments and that was enough to throw off the even flow of planks down the hull. If I had not connected the tick marks it would have been very difficult to spot these errors.

 

 

Mike

 

Edited October 8, 2018 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

Hello Everyone,

 

Normally I like to do a final sanding and a coat of W-O-P before posting. Today I'm just too excited as I have finally finished all the deck planking. Much of it was done with the aid of Dewalt Trigger Clamps. As space became tight I reverted to using wedges cut from 1/16" basswood or scrap boxwood sheet. The wedges allow for as much pressure as needed to close gaps. PVA was used throughout. The Bulwarks where masked of to prevent any damage to the red paint. As you can see in the photos, I have started sanding the starboard side. There is much more to do so I will spend the next day or two finishing up. Will post some photos once the W-O-P is applied. Yippee!

 

 

Edited February 20, 2016 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

Very well done!!!!!  

[Jason]

That is an excellently executed deck!

[druxey]

Excellent method and result, Mike. Well done!

[Rustyj]

Wonderful!!!!!

[rafine]

Beautifully done Mike.

 

Bob

[Erik W]

Mike,

 

The deck looks awesome!!  Can't wait to see the photos after the final sanding and WOP.

 

Erik

[KenW]

Absolutely well done.

[paulsutcliffe]

Beautiful deck and scarph joints, well done

Edited February 20, 2016 by paulsutcliffe

[Canute]

Beautiful joinery there. :)

[gerty]

Nice work on the deck !

[albert]

Wonderful work Mike.

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys! Your coments and "Likes" are very much appreciated. Now its back to sanding!

 

Mike

[wyz]

Mike,

 

     That is one gorgeous deck you put in.  I love the curved planks ..... really sweet looking!

 

Tom

[Stuntflyer]

Just a small update. .

 

After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.

 

 

Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.

 

 

Edited February 22, 2016 by Stuntflyer

[Erik W]

Mike,

 

Now that you've finished sanding the deck, and applied a coat of WOP, your worries about any gaps between deck planking are definitely unfounded.  Everything looks very tight and clean!

 

Erik

[jwvolz]

That's looking absolutely fantastic Mike. 

[druxey]

Looking lovely, Mike. Are you planning to pin the windlass to the deck as well?

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks guys! It feels good to be able to work on the ship without all the saw dust.

druxey, I don't think that pinning the windlass is needed here.

Mike

Edited November 15, 2016 by Stuntflyer