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Hannah by Cap'n Rat Fink - FINISHED - 1/4" scale - semi scratch - George Washington's Colonial Schooner by Mario - Finished 2/24/2021


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Thanks Guys for stopping by and your kind words. Thanks all for the likes.

 

 

 

Well once I figured the story all those lines were telling me it got a whole lot easier. The starboard went a lot smoother, and I was done in about 2 hours. Now on with the hawse timber, then glue them in after finish sanding the fore and aft faces of the frames...

And again please let me know if you see that I made a mistake or mistakes. This Cant making is a first for me..









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  • 2 months later...

     Well I thought I would do a very small update here. The forward cants are done and installed. The full frame are done. But ran into a small problem with one of the aft cant frames. #24. So I will have to deal with this one.

 

So I have 1 picture for ya. I am just too busy right now to post pictures and update regularly.

 

     Me and my family are having a good summer. Working(after all cant have a fun summer without mooola). Been movie watching, concerts at the park, vacationing in Carlsbad South Beach. about 30 mins from were your NRG meeting is gonna be in San Diego. We are looking to retire in Carlsbad or Oceanside, because we love the beach area. Kid soccer, and adult softball that we joined. Just having fun baby.

 

    That's why no updates lately. Ah the joys of living in So. California. Over all the best weather in the continental USA. Besides this is a hobby, NOT MY LIFES BLOOD. haha! 

 

 

have a great summer

  

 

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Having nearly completed a Lauck Street POF model of the AVS, I can tell you that I ran into similar problems in a couple of spots on the frames.  I did have to remake some parts including two cant frames at the aft end of the hull.  It's part of the challenge of building these POF kits.  You have to realize that Bob Hunt created these models himself, and himself alone.  He drew up the plans, did all the quality control, built the prototype and cut all the parts himself.  There was no army of kit developers working with him. Considering this was a one-man operation, and the Hannah framing kit went from a concept to a finished kit in about 2 months is remarkable.  A minor glitch or two is to be expected.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello All,
Time to raise the dead. Another one of my dead build logs. Been two years ago again. The laser cut parts at least for the frames had several issues. So I had to remake my own frames to replace the ones that did not match up to the frame drawings. Ill see how far I will be able to get before my knee surgery. Then I will have to stop until Im able to get around again.




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Mario,

 

Looking good.  A couple things I found out the hard way...  make sure all the frames are glued before sanding that way you'll get a smooth planking surface. For the inside, you'll have to figure out some custom tools... curved pieces of wood, etc. with the sand paper glued to the sanding blocks you make.   I also found that sandpaper attached to some flexile cardstock or thin plastic stock worked well too.   It's tight inside the hull but doable.

 

I think we all have our favorite ways of doing things so there is no "wrong" way.  You'll just have to try different things and find out what works for you.

Edited by mtaylor
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Hakan good to know your still alive like me! :D

 

Thanks Mark for the PM and your advice. Being only about 14.5 inches in length(little model).

 

Hi Dennis and Thank you.

 

Hey John Thanks you being a 1/96 man you know small areas. Not worried about blood more like snapping those damn timbers off.

 

Thank you Paul.

 

 

 

 

Now back to more issues on the kit I have run into. I have been messing with the wing transoms fit to the cant frames. Don't I am not going to install until I have sanded the hull.  Please tell me I looking at this correctly and so I con go forward. This is all new to me. Back to the shop and going to mess with hawse timber now. Bought this kit to learn POF, but with all the issues I am just hoping I get something out of this in the end.

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Edited by Cap'n Rat Fink
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Nice chisels also. I'm sure they are a joy to use.

Knee surgery you say. Been climbing too many towers, maybe? Let's hope for a swift recovery whence its done.

 

And on the subject of learning... with all issues you learn a lot. As a colleague said at work, "if it was easy, they wouldn't pay us.."

Take a break when stuck and as you do, ask the intelligentsia out here for advice.

 

Keep it up, mate!

Edited by Wintergreen
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Thanks for the kind remarks....

 

 

The fairing process is on the way



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I am using small scrapers for a lot of the fairing process...

 

 


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The bow is coming out nicely, more faring to do...

 


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The stern cant frames during fairing process...

 

 


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An issue has cropped up...

 


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A closer look...

 

 


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What I am looking at to verify the issue...

 

 


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Even though I have this issue, to me it's not a real big problem. After I am done with the fairing of the inside of the hull I will be taking measurements.

My plan is to first measure the spacing of the stern framing slots on the jig. As long has I have the spacing from first port stern frame to the second frame, and the spacing matches the rest of the stern frames I should be good. If it works out like I think it should, I'll just modify the jig a bit so when I do the glue up the stern frames it will be good. All I ask from you more experience POF builders is that my deduction is correct.

The issues I run into are not frustrating, I find it as challenge and a learning experience and of course fun. Getting ready to start my first ever acoustic guitar build for my musician son. Tolerances on that will be a lot tougher.

Please any advice and remarks will be very helpful.

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Hi Mario,

 

Looking good.    Question for you.... the build board... are both sides equal?   I found mine wasn't quite as equal as they should be... distortion of the print or the master (Hahn plans).  Check the arc as frame row into the stern on both sides.

 

BTW, the Hannah would not have had the "USS" as there really wasn't a US navy at the time.  As I recall, it was first ship of the Navy....  I might be wrong but I thought "USS" came about much later.

 

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TALKING TO A NOVICE HERE MARK! BUT I FOUND MY PATH. Now if you can tell me how to change the title, things will be good.

 

 

 

 

 

          Well I was away for a long time. So I decided to re-read the kit practicum. To refresh this portion of the build. Glad I did, because it saved me from a lot of work and from making any mistakes.
           Now I have a big learning curve here. So I go with the Ol' saying "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE". The practicum comes with all chapters to complete the model. But only goes so far with the JIG from the kit itself. So when I read on with the process I am also looking at pictures showing the explanation with Hahn's upside down JIG. Since I have no experience with either JIG. I'm trying to figure out things with two different JiG Views. So Bob's Jig is lasered cut. Lasers cut at an angle. So I have to file the slots square, Bob also mentions that the builder must also file the slots at angles since the laser will not do this, so the stern frames line up with the wing transom. So after re-reading and finding this little tid-bit of information it cleared things up.
             So at this time I am filing the slots slowly and making sure the stern frames line up correctly with the wing transom. This little jig Bob added to the over all Jig helps hold the stern frames in place, where if it weren't there you would have to use a scrap piece glued to each piece tying them all together. How far can I go with this little slotted jig, before I have to remove it? I don't know. I'll go as far as I can then remove it.




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           If I could do it all over again, I would of never glued this part of the jig in. I would of made it fit nice and snug so I could remove it and put it back in place when I needed too. It would of made things easier to measure and view.

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Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.






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I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood



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Thanks mark, John, Denis,

     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.

 

 

Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.




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