IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[Old Collingwood]

Loving the detail on that hull so mutch scribed armour plate detail, wish my Warspite was as accurate and detailed.

 

 

OC.

[cog]

Although the quality of the Pontos set is very high, I have to say that Fly Hawk has quite a few bits and pieces more. When I look at the funnel's platform, Pontos has just the search lights, whilst Fly Hawk has an additional floor plate, and shutters for the range finders. I do have to admit that the quality is not as good as Pontos' on e.g. the AA guns. The flat PE is slightly thinner if I'm correct. Furthermore, the Pontos parts do not always fit the kit's parts which is really annoying!

[RGL]

The Pontos is made for the new tool. I agree that Flyhawk has some nice additions tho.

[cog]

I got the Pontos for the Musashi (also stated on the box), which is still old tool, so that's odd.

 

If you compare the funnel from the old tool to the one from the new, is the new shorter and wider?

[RGL]

Hmm, don't know, I'll look tomorrow

[BANYAN]

Quite a bit of detail there Greg; she should look really nice painted up.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Old Collingwood]

A few hours of cutting and bending, the support struts for the rear deck.

 

For some reason Pontos does not replace the ladders, maybe they did but there is no reference.support struts 1.jpg

 

The struts in the kit come in one piece, but this is really nice and they fit perfectly. I have added the 4 aftermarket support struts to go under the triple 25mms from the hull as Tamiya do provide some but they are not perforated.support struts 2.jpgsupport struts 3.jpg

 

From these close ups you can see the hull lines and the deadyeyes that go over the portholes that are nicely detailed.

Greg im loving the detail of the plates along the hull bottom, they are consistant with what I would have thought would have been on her,  from battleship plans I have seen most have this routine patern of interlocking plates - similar to what I did on my Warspite lower hull.

 

 

OC.

[RGL]

So, as much as I want to show the ribs, it does not make sense. The armor bands were so thick it would not be visible. This shot is Yamato armour from the US navy.

 

So, getting the hang of this airbrush thingy, and preshading the panel lines.

 

I want to leave the paint to set before masking so I finished the main guns, including the instrument platforms on the barrels and individual stanchions. I was going to use wire but it just bends and crimps hopelessly so I will use ezline.

Edited February 5, 2017 by Greg Lester

[BANYAN]

There is really a lot of nice detail in this build Greg; will look good when all together.  The guns look great.  Makes you wonder how some of these things floated with all that metal

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited February 5, 2017 by BANYAN

[cog]

What's in a few inches of armour ... I see you used white primer (or is it very light grey), any particular reason? I woud have expected a darker shade. It seems you have gotten quite a steady hand, when I look at the lines.

 

Stanchions and wire. Again a bold decision. When I look how I've been struggling to get the pre-made railing on, I am very  curious on your result, and the difficultie(s) you've encountered. On the other hand, you've already made a few lengths.

 

Cheers

[RGL]

I don't like the one piece railings for some reason. Tamiya designed it for after market and the wire does not bend well but it works with ezline with the stanchions. That way you don't have a rail on the deck and it does not pull if you hit it. I will have to test how it takes paint, but I used it in my Emden and Varyag and liked the effect. Have a look, it comes out OK. We forget as photos are very forgiving with a crap camera.

 

I used the Tamiya rattle can for the bulk of the hull and will use Ak from here on in, it's just for ease, but you do have to sand it back as the rattle can picks ups anything floating in the air and presses it into the ship. It sticks to brass and plastic really well. I have found that gluing brass to brass with a paint barrier does not work well, so I have a lot of work to do with rigging points to do yet for the ships arials.

 

The airbrush is a dream as the paint goes to about 1mm coverage and coffee does not help at all, given the size of the hull there is no such thing as a 50cm strait line. I'm looking forward to progressing with the build but a week of dayshift, coaching and a trip to Sydney next weekend for a regatta will slow me down

[CDW]

Love the look of those turrets. Awesome!

[src]

Greg,

That picture from post 400, did I read that correctly? Is that salvaged armor form the wreck? I am no ballistics expert that looks more like a shell hit rather then torpedo or bomb. Was there a plaque describing where on the ship the plate came from? 

 

Great work BTW, been quietly following along when I feel then need to bounce my jaw off the desk.

 

Sam

[RGL]

It is a shell hit, it's obviously the same thickness but not the real thing I suppose.

 

The particular piece of armor tested was the 26-inch frontal armor for one of the Shinano’s 18-inch turrets located in the Kure naval yards after ww2. The Shinano was never made but it was the same class. The U.S. Navy shot it point blank with a 16-inch shell. The resulting impact penetrated and ripped the armor apart. While this showed that a 16-inch shell could penetrate the Yamato’s armor, it’s unlikely that it would have done so at distance. This piece of armor tested by the navy is now on display at the Washington Navy yard. Reference http://www.byronhartshorn.com/

Edited February 6, 2017 by Greg Lester

[popeye the sailor]

guns and the paint work looks great Greg.   you've made some serious progress since I last looked in.

[RGL]

Ok, now I've painted all the squares,

i filled in all the spaces with red, then oversprayed the hull with more red. That's the thing with red, it's soo translucent,

 

Then I highlighted all the panels with a lighter red, toning down the back preshading. It actually looks a lot better in real life as the iphone camera does notcut it.. I intend to do a filter over the top then some very light dry brushing to really highlight the panels.

 

I did not do the ribbed version as I previously explained it does not make sense.

 

Then I can move upwards to do the upper hull after I leave it for a week to dry to I can mask it safely. 

 

Then the weathering....

Edited February 12, 2017 by Greg Lester

[cog]

great job on the painting Greg. The shading looks fine to me!

[mtaylor]

Looks great from here, Greg.  

[BANYAN]

That looks pretty good Greg; with that additional work it should very realistic.

 

How did you hold up in the heat?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

Good, I was supposed to go to a regatta is Sydney where it was 44 but it got cancelled so I have a few days of quality desk time. It only got to 40 degrees here. The airbrush work is improving and I'm a lot more comfortable for the practice with it.

[WBlakeny]

Great work an that painting. I really like how you did the "plating". 

It's giving me headaches in wondering how i'm going to simulate that.

[RGL]

This morning I oversprayed the hull with a 60% diluted Raw Sienna colour to mute the preshading lines and darken the hull, which really makes the whole effect much more subtle. The ship is not in dock for a week to dry whilst I start priming other things such as the guns. 

[BANYAN]

That looks really good Greg.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

Progress, Main guns primed, and a few other bits and pieces.Now to wait 24 hours and I can start preshading.

[CDW]

Just keeps getting better, better, and more better good. 

[Old Collingwood]

This morning I oversprayed the hull with a 60% diluted Raw Sienna colour to mute the preshading lines and darken the hull, which really makes the whole effect much more subtle. The ship is not in dock for a week to dry whilst I start priming other things such as the guns. 

I am probably missing something here - but is the models hull physical raised or sunken panel lines, where you have had to airbrush all those black shading?

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Progress, Main guns primed, and a few other bits and pieces.Now to wait 24 hours and I can start preshading.

Thaose turrets look Huge - Imagine the size in real life :o

 

 

OC.

[RGL]

Yes OC the armour belts are raised by about .1mm or scribed. The guns are huge even in this scale.

[Old Collingwood]

Yes OC the armour belts are raised by about .1mm or scribed. The guns are huge even in this scale.

Just wondered if you might have found it easyer to have done a dark wash in the scribed panel areas after spraying the hull, you could have done this with a cloth and thin paint - just a thought.

 

OC.

[RGL]

I did think about that, and it took several hours with a piece of paper and the airbrush, but it creates a shadow effect which I'm after. I will eventually add grunge to the base of the hull, rust, grime, salt and slime lines as well for weathering so a lot to go yet to dull it down.

 

I'm loving the H&S airbrush at the moment as it's a bit of a scalpel and with the thinned paint it dries quickly and you don't lose any detail. The handrails on top of the guns did not even have their eyelets clogged which a rattle can will do.