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Posted (edited)

Hi Jorge

 

I bought these at Lee Valley a long tIme ago, they do not sell it anymore.

They are 1,5" long. I do not know where to buy others.

 

Another solution, would be to make a few ones as Mike did in a few posts.

Or continue the search on Internet with:  toolmaker machinist parallel clamps.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Parallel+Toolmakers+Machinist+Clamps&ref=nb_sb_noss

https://taytools.com/products/toolmakers-machinist-parallel-clamps

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Machinist-Toolmakers-Parallel-Clamps-1-Pair/T10079

 

Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
Posted
25 minutes ago, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

Hola jorge

 

Los compré en Lee Valley hace mucho tiempo, ya no los venden.

Tienen 1,5 "de largo. No sé dónde comprar otros.

 

Otra solución sería hacer algunas como hizo Mike en algunas publicaciones.

O continuar la búsqueda en Internet con: pinzas paralelas maquinista toolmaker.

 

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Parallel+Toolmakers+Machinist+Clamps&ref=nb_sb_noss

https://taytools.com/products/toolmakers-machinist-parallel-clamps

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Machinist-Toolmakers-Parallel-Clamps-1-Pair/T10079

 

Gracias,muchas gracias maestro.

-HMS Tritón 1/48 1773 en scracht (TERMINADO)

-HMS Winchelsea 1/35  1764 full scracht (EN PROYECTO)

 

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Posted

Incredible work! I have learned a ton from your log, thank you!

 

Bradley 

Current Builds:

Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96

 

Future Builds:

Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72

 

Completed Builds:

HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately)

Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures)

Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24

 

Shelved Builds:

Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)

 

 

 

Posted

Construction of the bread oven and the entrance of the anchor cables in the hold.

 

On the drawing , we see the shape of the bricks. The assembly is made on a wood form.  All the holes are filled with wood putty made of saw dust and glue.

2 actions are done so that the glue does nit stick to the form: adding oil and car wax. Finally, the painting.

 

Here is how I think "the cage" could be done. Below the oven, we need 2 things so that the support of the oven does not burn. Just under the oven, there could be thin plates and or a brick thickness. In the bottom half of that support, it would be filled with sand to dissipate the heat.

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Posted (edited)

photo 1 : post experiences; if the height of the post: - is finely adjusted, it is easy to install

                                                                                        - is too high, it needs great forces to install

 

Now, if we translate to the ship, I believe the same principles applies, for the height of the post. We often see metal rods at the each end of the post because this is an easy way to install on a model. I do not believe that this can apply in a full scale model. So, for today, my solution is to carefully adjust each post. No notches on the deck, but 1 under the beam. At full scale, a sledge hammer would be enough. All this is pure speculation, As usual, I do not know the answer, I just try to find the good angle of the problem.

 

photo 2: location of the posts; not at at the back because of the rudder assembly, not at the front because of the anchor cables, instead there is a beam to support some deck beams. In the middle, 2 sections with posts1 or 2 posts in some area, and few others: 3.

 

As usual, nothing is fix yet and the posts are still to be shaped. For now, only the height is fixed.

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Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
Posted
On 11/7/2020 at 12:46 PM, SJSoane said:

just like being in the actual ship, except for the giant clamps taller than a man!🙂

Ok Mark, I erased them!

 

2020 objectives, first deck completed, and still 1 1/2 month to go.

This model is more oriented on carpentry, so no cannons will be install.

 

Parts for the first deck are glued.

As usual, 1 coat of tung oil us applied. On the previous models, I tried 2 and 3 coats, and I prefer the 1 coat application, just enough to accentuation the wood grain. At the opposite, too much tung oil will create a transparent thickness, a varnish look, and I do not want this effect.

 

Most of the photos are done with small camera Yi  4K.

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Posted

re: pillars under beams. I don't know about French practice, but the British used a mortise in the beam above to fit the tenon on the upper end of the pillar. On the deck there was a shallow inclined slot so that the post located properly with a ramped tenon. It could still easily be knocked out with a blow or two - in the correct direction.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/196-hms-bellona-1760-by-sjsoane-scale-164-english-74-gun-as-designed/page/65/

 

We talked about this subject in  Mark logs and I also tried to think about this subject in a previous post.

The French practice was probably similar. The simplest solutions are often the best solutions.

Also, near the capstan, the tenon had a hinge, something like a door hinge of that time at the top of it.

Again, here is the photo of Giorgio who did a nice representation to show how these tenons were lifted.

 

On the previous photos, I did only the mortice in the top deck beam and nothing on the deck. The problem with this representation, it is more difficult to align vertically the tenon. Having a slot in the deck facilitates the positioning of the tenon. Also, the ramped tenon eliminate the need to use a jack.

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Posted

Every time I check-in with this build, I am amazed.  The skill in the build and the presentation of the build is awesome.  I'm also a fan of the subject and the scale.  Well done! 

 

I'm reminded of the years I spent learning to play an instrument.  I never had much ability.  But, it gave me a life long appreciation for those that do.  I've been modeling, off and on, for 40 years.  I will not reach the level of ability/skill/determination that is expressed in this build.  I'll keep plodding along and enjoy what I can do.  But, I appreciate those who share their gifts.

"So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past."

Posted
4 hours ago, Deperdussin1910 said:

presentation of the build

 

Presentation of the build, I would say, is as much important as the construction of the build. One of the things to do is to take sometimes to take photos. There are some basics rules to follow by examples when taking photos inside the model the photo must be well horizontally.  When taking photos, I try to take photos at the height of the human eye at the scale, this provide a more natural photos look. By contrast, photos taken too high do not look as well. This morning, I tried another series of photos.

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Posted

Your photography skills are unreal... almost as unreal as your build!

Current Builds:

Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96

 

Future Builds:

Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72

 

Completed Builds:

HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately)

Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures)

Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24

 

Shelved Builds:

Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)

 

 

 

Posted
20 hours ago, Keithbrad80 said:

Your photography skills are unreal...

 

Thank you or your comments but taking photos inside the model is very difficult to get the perfect LIGHTING. This morning, I tried another set of photos, still with different settings and still the results are not there... I am sorry I cannot get the correct lighting. The photos are done with a small camera action, half the cost of the Go pro. Does this camera would be better? I do not know. In this set, I tried to have less "orange color" in the photos and this is the results.

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Posted

GB,

Your work is beyond perfect as is your expertise with complicated photography  :imNotWorthy:

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Posted

Some of your photographs look like M.C. Escher drawings ... so complex

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Thank you Michael

 

 

5 hours ago, cog said:

Some of your photographs look like M.C. Escher drawings

 

But my photos are real stairs... In fact, one of the  the predefined goals for this build, is to be able to see inside the model ship. The first thing to get there; no deck planking; that is the easy part. trying to capture some photographs showing this, is a different approach. I am exploring 3 ways to look inside: from the top  at an angle between 30 and 45 degrees to try to see  multi level decks. Finding the perfect angle is not easy. Lastly photos inside the model with a small camera.

 

In fact, the inspiration probably came a long time ago, when I saw the 3D drawings of Boudriot in the 74 guns books which have many of these kinds of drawings which are "spectacular " to see.

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Posted (edited)

Mark, the last one are from a small action camera Go pro hero 9 with a standard lens, they also have another one that I did not try.

 

Camera is 1 thing, but not enough for the inside; lighting is also very important.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=photography+led+lighting&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

 

As an example, for around $100, you can have a decent LED lamp which compares to nothing as a standard working lamp. I learned to use these for photography and now I also use these to work. It is like trying to work on an height adjustable table. Ounce you tired it, you never go back on a standard 30 inch height table. Also you can see more details, details you would not see with an ordinary task lamp.

 

Finally, you can also take photo like the bell, lighting on the object only, and everything black around.

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Edited by Gaetan Bordeleau
Posted

 

Gaetan,

 

I was trying to think of a diplomatic way of equating the quality of your work along with other builders that have reached your level of absolute perfection in this art form - compared to, well, the rest of us?? 🤔

 

My comparison: The world's population, today number some 5.5 billion. Of those 5.5 billion, about 5,000 people have reached Mount Everest’s summit. You are one of the 5000.  :imNotWorthy:  :imNotWorthy:

 

 

 

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

Posted

In french, there is a saying: It is by forging that one becomes a blacksmith. 

It is also true for the aspiring model ship builder.

 

A model ship builder must expand his web of competence in many areas related to wood, metal, etc.

There is also another  branch which his worth exploring and can make things appear more beautiful than they really are.

This subject is neglected by many. I remember in the beginning of this forum, photography  was a subject, not really welcome, and this is a big mistake.

 

 

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