IJN Mikasa by CDW - Wave Models - 1:200 scale - PLASTIC

[Old Collingwood]

This might be of help  -  https://www.cnet.com/pictures/take-a-tour-of-the-114-year-old-japanese-battleship-mikasa-pictures/

 

 

OC.

[hollowneck]

O.C.,

Thanks! Assuming the rehab/restoration has changed much of the original deck materials over the last 70 years, to me all the decks appear to be teak in various states of weather wear. The bridge shows teak- some pretty worn and another view shows highly polished wood. I'm thinking my choice of stains will be pretty darn close to what I see in the memorial pics.

Since there is so much visible wood decking on this ship model, the color decisions are very important I think.

 

Ron

[CDW]

58 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

And speaking of colors, I've tested stains on the wood applique/overlays and decided to use a maple color, except on the conning tower's floor which will be stained darker to simulate teak. I haven't seen you color your decking yet; have you chosen any colors or do you intend to retain the lighter, natural wood supplied in the upgrade package?

Ron

Ron

While I could be open to staining the decks, my results in the past have been less than spectacular. It seemed the stain was inconsistent over large areas. Blotches of dark and light areas. Maybe it was due to the stain I was using. What type/brand did you test to get satisfactory results? It's late in the game for me to stain mine, but would like to know for the future, other builds.

CDW

[popeye the sailor]

checking in on your project........you've made some decent progress!   the bridge looks great as well as the guns   wow!   very nice clean job  

[hollowneck]

Craig,

I'm satisfied with the Minwax stains (Home Depot/Lowes) - nothing fancy or expensive; they are consistent but you do need to toss 'em out after about 18-24 months. I also use a wood conditioner (also by Minwax) that helps even out the wood grain before staining. It's an extra step by I think it helps to prevent inconsistencies. The solvent stains dry pretty rapidly so the conditioner only adds a few minutes to the process. I'll take a pic over the next couple days ( I've only put the wood skin down on one deck piece thus far) and post it; you can judge the look and results for yourself. I used a med fine brush and had some Q-tips handy when I did my staining. Don't let the stain stay on long, wipe it off quickly with the cotton tip.

Ron

[CDW]

Thanks Ron. I'll be interested to see your sample pieces using the Minwax product. My good buddy here in Tampa and I build scale RC aircraft. He uses Minwax stain a lot on his projects and likes it, too. What you've been using is the water based product? I think most all these stains are water based nowadays, rather than oil based like they used to be.

 

[CDW]

I'm at about 90% now with the front bridge, and should finish it up tomorrow as long as I don't get called into action on some unforeseen endeavor...and that's been known to happen. 

I may begin with the masts after the front bridge is finished, as it may be better to do some of the mast rigging before the deck areas get all cluttered up. It gets pretty busy with all the launches. Will need to carefully look things over before I decide for sure.

[yvesvidal]

9 hours ago, CDW said:

Superb work. 

 

Now, don't take this as a criticism as it is more of a pet peeve for me, but is there any way you could fix the gap between the bridge walls and the wood planking on the deck? I know that sometimes, the fitting is not perfect and perhaps you have not glued the bridge to the deck yet.

 

Your model is so beautiful, I would hate to see those big gaps.

 

Yves 

[CDW]

36 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Superb work. 

 

Now, don't take this as a criticism as it is more of a pet peeve for me, but is there any way you could fix the gap between the bridge walls and the wood planking on the deck? I know that sometimes, the fitting is not perfect and perhaps you have not glued the bridge to the deck yet.

 

Your model is so beautiful, I would hate to see those big gaps.

 

Yves 

Lol - It's just sitting there as a dry-fit, posing for a picture. Nothing is permanently in place yet, or glued down. Trust me, there will be no gaps when it's done, but thanks for pointing it out.

[RGL]

Looking magnificent old boy 

[CDW]

Please Hide Your Ugly Crack

 

All kidding aside, the front and rear bridge is glued down securely and gaps filled. 🤐

[popeye the sailor]

look'in extremely good!   

[hollowneck]

Your MikeyCasa is looking excellent! Nice work. I like the colors you've chosen.

I owe you a photo of my stained decking (now in place on two of the three deck pieces); this will clearly show the maple color I used. I'll post this over the next couple days...

The Minwax stains are oil-based (not water), so paint thinner is required for clean-up or thinning. I use Minwax right out of the can. If I want a little more darkness to the hue I wait for first coat to dry then go for a second coat.

Ron

[CDW]

I looked around to realize it's been almost a week since I posted some progress on Mikasa. Not that I haven't been working on it every day, some of these details take an inordinate amount of time for me to do, just getting bogged down in all the little fiddly business of it.

And I was thinking this past week...I need a diversion. Something that I can work on at the same time as Mikasa so that when details on Mikasa get a little overwhelming, just switch over to the diversion for a more relaxed, not as highly detailed model that I can bang together in a week or two.

 

[CDW]

This 1:350 Nippon Maru kit was made by IMAI and distributed through Scale Craft Models, vintage 1978. Remember when the "tall ships" were a big thing and touring the world? That's when IMAI released a slew of tall ships replicating those that participated in the tour. This is one of a half dozen or more ships, some done in waterline versions like the Nippon Maru, and some others full hull versions.

If you never owned one, you will be surprised at the parts count and quality of these little IMAI kits, but really, IMAI did a whole lot of nice models. They compare very well with any modern day model ship kit in quality...and if you are careful, you can buy them at very favorable prices. I paid less that $20 for this one from Ebay with shipping included. Can't beat that in my opinion. It will make for a nice little model without a bunch of aftermarket, and I can finish it rather quickly. 

[CDW]

Getting close to wrapping up the small details on the bow. Of course, the anchors, chains, and booms remain to be done as well. Breakwaters have been added fore and aft in preparation for the main guns and turrets. Slowly but surely.

[Old Collingwood]

She is looking spot on  really good work my friend very very tidy.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Thank you kindly OC. 

[CDW]

12" main gun turret

[channell]

Really great work here, this is the first of this kit I've seen go together online. 

 

Keep up the awesome work! 

[GrandpaPhil]

Well done!

[CDW]

Thanks for the kind comments gentlemen. Much appreciated.

I liked her with teeth, but she now looks totally mean with her fangs in place.

[Canute]

Nicely done, Craig. Really giving her a fierce face.

[Old Collingwood]

Looking really smart mate   that turret  looks superb.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Thanks for the nice comments, Ken and OC. It's a big difference going from 1:350 to 1:200 scale, in as much as the details that can be added without nearly as much difficulty (for me) as 1:350 scale.

I have no idea how the modelers who do 1:700 scale can pack so much detail into such small models. I have seen some incredible work from those 1:700 scale modelers. By comparison, 1:200 scale is much easier IMHO.

[CDW]

Onward and upward.

More deck details to come, then funnels, masts, and rigging.

[popeye the sailor]

looks great with the turrets on..........very well done!     

[semorebutts]

how have I not seen this build?... this is awesome!

[CDW]

[CDW]

The stern appears much more voluptuous with the deck hardware in place.