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Posted

Just an FYI....normally I sell my deadeyes 28 per package.   But since the Winnie will need 34 six mm deadeyes, I have adjusted the 6mm packages to now include 35 deadeyes.  So now you dont have to spend all that extra money for second package which will mostly go unused.  You will now just need to buy one package each of the 6mm and 5mm deadeyes.

 

deadeyes.jpg

 

 

 

 

Posted

Oh and dont forget to really tumble your deadeyes.  I realize many of you prefer deadeyes already made up.  But if you like the mini kits it is crucial to tumble them.  Do not attempt to sand each by hand.  
 

My home made tumbler below with the 6mm deadeyes ready for dying.  I tumbled the heck out of them to really round off the edges and get rid of the char.  The secret is using the correct sandpaper.  In this case 400 grit.  Tumbled on the highest speed my drill would run which is 3500 rpm.

 

205A5475-8392-4C4C-9C27-05AA30C0782A.jpeg

Posted

I finished the 6mm deadeyes and chainplates on the Starboard side.  Its the same as doing the 5mm deadeyes except these chainlates also get an additional strap on their ends.  It extends over the black strake and onto the wales.   

 

In addition, there are two lengths of center links.  As you work your way aft on the channels you will need to switch to the longer link.  I found that the fore channels needed the longer links for almost all the deadeyes.
 

Here is how the model looks today.  I also added the eyebolts between the chainplates as indicated on the plans.  Two photos of the same thing….one from my cell phone which I am testing.  Trying to adjust values etc.  sorry for redundancy but I need to see them side by side.

chainplatesdone.jpg

C51521A2-35AB-4CA6-AFF6-65EFD9754782.jpeg


 

 

Posted

The darker deadeyes are growing on me.  I think I also fixed my camera settings...hopefully these are better.   But I did finish the deadeyes and chainplates on the port side.   I also started a test on the Billboard.  Thats the board that covers the first two chainplates at the bow.  Its just above the anchore lining.

 

Basically its a 5/32" x 5/64 strip that was rounded off on the ends and the edges as well.  This was placed above the anchor lining and cut so the ends overhang the sides of the anchor lining just a bit for and aft.  The billboard is laser cut and etched with planks already.  There is also a laser etched rabbet on the back side where it fits against the channel.   The bottom edge is beveled to sit flat on top of the strip I just mentioned.    Then I rounded off the top edge and applied the frieze.   I am not sure if I should extend the frieze all the way up on the billboard as I left just a sliver natural to match the thickness of the channel.  I will sit on that for a bit before deciding.

 

Anyway....some pictures.

 

 

 

 

billboardtest.jpg

 

billboardtest1.jpg

billboardtest2.jpg

Posted

It is bitter sweet as always.   But I am eager to start something new.   We are in the home stretch now!!!

Will be making the fenders next and entry ladders.  Then its on to the swivel guns.   That will complete the exterior except for the lantern.   Then we will move inboard again to complete the waist area with gangboards.

 

That will finish chapter 11.

 

Chapter twelve is the headrails and lantern....Finished.

Posted
7 hours ago, Chuck said:

It is bitter sweet as always.   But I am eager to start something new. 

 

...and you have lots of modelers eagerly awaiting whatever is next also! It's always exciting to watch you and Chris create a new model.

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck said:

It is bitter sweet as always.   But I am eager to start something new.   We are in the home stretch now!!!

Will be making the fenders next and entry ladders.  Then its on to the swivel guns.   That will complete the exterior except for the lantern.   Then we will move inboard again to complete the waist area with gangboards.

 

That will finish chapter 11.

 

Chapter twelve is the headrails and lantern....Finished.

Chuck: Wasnt there talk about you putting together a separate kit/project for a pinnace/launch for the Winnie? Just trying to keep this all organized in my brain. 

 

Mike Draper

 

PS. just finished the rigging on the Agamemnon.. have some rope coils, flags and stern lanterns and she is done.. Winnie is next! 

 

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada

Member, Nautical Research Guild

Posted
52 minutes ago, Kusawa2000 said:

Chuck: Wasnt there talk about you putting together a separate kit/project for a pinnace/launch for the Winnie?

Yes but that will be separate…not a chapter per se.  it will be a whole new mini kit..one thats pretty involved I think.  Mounted on two spare topmasts like this.  I am not considering it as part of the winnie project because it could also be a stand alone project.

 

I am looking forward to your build log…start it up already!!!

 

image.png

 

Mike I think he was referring to Chris Watton of Vanguard  
 

Chuck

Posted
47 minutes ago, Stuntflyer said:

Sorry, I’m trying to figure out who Chris is.

 

Mike

 

Chris Watton of Vanguard Models. I think it's fascinating to watch Chris and Chuck separately develop each new model in their line of kits.

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, Stuntflyer said:

Mike, will you be doing a build log on the Winnie?

 

Mike

Stuntflyer: Most definitely I will be providing a build log! Looking forward to getting into this new experience!

 

I have been keen on getting started on Winnie since the project has been started by Chuck but I decided to finish the Agamemnon project I have been working on by fully rigging her with sails (silly me...). Its been a long process but the end of its getting close and it will be good to her on the "done" pile. Stay tuned.. 

 

Mike Draper

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada

Member, Nautical Research Guild

Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck said:

Yes but that will be separate…not a chapter per se.  it will be a whole new mini kit..one thats pretty involved I think.  Mounted on two spare topmasts like this.  I am not considering it as part of the winnie project because it could also be a stand alone project.

 

I am looking forward to your build log…start it up already!!!

 

image.png

 

Mike I think he was referring to Chris Watton of Vanguard  
 

Chuck

Chuck: Good news that the launch/pinnace is still in the picture.. While I know that will be a slow, detailed project it will be a neat addition to the Winnie.. I see some neat work ahead of me with the Winnie!

 

Mike Draper

Mike Draper

Whitehorse, Yukon

Canada

Member, Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Fun with fenders today!!

 

fenders.jpg

 

Fenders may seem like a small detail but it is very important.  These small pieces can really hurt the appearance of your model if done poorly.  These are laser cut for you just like the channels.  They are done in three layers.  Very thin outside layers is the key.  But one often overlooked detail is the fact that the fenders do taper thinner as the work their way lower on the hull.  That is when viewing them head on.  To add this detail will elevate your model as well as getting the beaded edges made by the layers nice and neat.

 

fenders3.jpg

 

The center layer had the char removed first.  Then I thinned down and tapered them towards the bottom.   Only then did I add the outside layers.   After using some wipe on poly I set them aside.   But now it was time to carefully chisel away the molding on the hull to accept them.  Do this carefully to get nice tight seams.   I glued the fenders in place first on the hull and then added the fries so I could carefully match the pattern as best I could.   Then I painted the top black to match the sheer cap.   

 

I hope you can see the nice beaded edges and the taper.  I will note that I used tissue paper this time to print the friezes.  I wanted it very thin so I could push it into the beaded edge with a dull toothpick.   I used a glue stick for the adhesive.   It will be almost impossible to match the pattern but its more important to just get some neat color on the fenders that match.   

 

fenders2.jpg

 

Any questions or comments.????

 

Now its onto the other side...and then the chesstrees which are done exactly the same.  The chesstrees have a sheave through them however and you will see that soon enough.

 

 

Posted

Just an FYI.....its one of those things....

 

On the Winnie contemporary model the ladder or boarding steps are kind of funky as far as spacing goes.  See below.  There are 5 steps below the molding and one above it.  This does not match the original draft.

 

DSCF5503.JPG

But it is very typical of contemporary models...here is another that does the same thing.  It would be fine to do it this way.  The molding is supposed to be cut away to make room for a step.   But I imagine the contemporary builder didnt want to break the nice run of the molding perhaps?

 

gallery_10197_918_16816.jpg

If you look at the original draft it is very different however as well as our model plans.

 

I wonder why the deviation?  The plans show the molding cut away to facilitate an even distribution of ladder steps.

 

Also note how on the steps follow the sheer on the models but are actually flat on the draft although its hard to tell.  I am not sure which way I will go yet.   But you have some choices.  I dont want to be the guy to randomly pick one for the group yet any will work and be historically correct "of sorts",  based on these contemporary sources.

 

Two drafts for the class....Note that one even has seven steps.  With an extra actually on the wales.  The bottom pic shows how I reconstructed this but its basically dealers choice.   I dont know why the contemporary model builders didnt cut away the molding for the step.  But do you guys have any thoughts on this...or preference.

 

boardingsteps.jpg

boardingsteps1.jpg

Wincross.jpg

 

Posted

Looks like you could run both ways with it. But I agree with you, perhaps the modeler didn’t want to cut a nice run of moulding. And since it’s not actually functional I think aesthetics take priority. Also the molding and the steps seem to have similar profiles.

I checked my drafts for Portland class and it shows the same thing.

 

B3A98E2C-1233-43F0-862B-77717ACB6223.png

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 - 5th rate 32 gun frigate (on hold for now)

 

                         HMS Portland 1770 Prototype 1:48 - 4th rate 50 gun ship

 

Posted

Having cut the moulding on Cheerful for steps I’d just as soon not to do it again if it’s an option. Since no one is climbing them I’d rather go for aesthetics. Also can’t imagine a neat way to have the frieze applied to a step other than I guess a little hand painting. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

I am always inclined to

follow the draft but after checking all of the contemporary models in our Gallery and more on the NMM site,  they all seem to leave the molding intact.  They preferred to model it differently than the drafts.

 

So as stated,  you can go either way although I suspect the drafts were more accurate.  
 

The top step will need a frieze.  I may paint it blue to match and then use a printed frieze on tissue paper on the center portion.  So a combination of painting and tissue paper.

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