Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Wacom]

Fantastic work Chuck.  Just looking at the photos makes me want to start, really having to make myself work harder to finish the engine so I can start on Winnie.

looking at the plans yesterday and see there are two sizes of long gun on there.  I know its way out of sequence but wondered what the mix of guns is.  Just curious. 

[Chuck]

Smaller guns on the quarter deck and forecastle.   Larger guns on the lower deck.

[Chuck]

Work has started on the qgallery framing....

 

The continuation of the upper counter is of course first.  Based on the reference marks from my template, I added the two beams that represent the top and bottom framing.  The top frame is 1/8" thick.  They are all laser cut for you by the way although a bit longer.  The top frame needs to be beveled to sit properly against the transom edge.    This image is from the 3/16" scale model and it shows the framing best.  You can see the bevels and fairing outboard.

On top of the upper qgallery frame sits a laser cut piece that is very thin.  It is just 1/32" x 1/32".  But it is curved to follow the inside curve of the frame.  This will become important later.  You should add this now.  Here is what that looks like on the new model.  Also note the pie shaped piece that forms the lower frame.  This is 1/16" thick.  The aft edge is beveled to fit under the edge of the transom.  You can see that this lower piece follows the same angle as the top frame.

 

Once these frames are glued on the outside edges must be faired just like the hull would be.  This is in preparation for the planking that will be glued to form the upper counter as it wraps around and forms the qgallery base.  The planking is actually just one piece and it has also been laser cut.  Again its a bit over-sized because everyone's model will be slightly different.   It is 1/32" thick.  Once glued on, you can sand the top and bottom edges flush with the framing.  (Also the aft edge)  The photo below shows it all sanded and completed.

 

You will have to bevel the forward edge of this shell before you glue it on....this is done so it fits snug and tight against the hull planking.

Finally, you can add the fancy molding that defines the upper counter.  These are made from boxwood.  They should be 1/8" wide.  All of the strips were scraped in their usual way to form the molding.  The one thing I would mention which is an exception....the upper molding along the transom is actually 1/16" thick.  This is the only one that is thicker.  We need it to be thicker so it stands proud of the transom to support all of the columns and carvings between the windows.  But I used the same scraper to make this one that I used for the thinner strips.

 

In addition, I also scraped the fancy molding that is shown on either side of the stern post.  These define the bottom edge of the lower counter.  It has a slightly different fancy profile but is also 1/8" wide.  It finishes off the lower counter quite well and neatens it all up.  It separates the hull planking and any messy ends of those planks you might have been less successful with.  Just cover the seam slightly to hide any defects. 

 

In the photo above you can also see that I tested the drop in position as well as the figure that sits on the end of the transom.  Jack did a great job with these and they fit really well.  They look great!!!

 

If you wanted....you could add the drop permanently at this point but dont add the figure.  I was just testing how it fit.  In addition I thought I would test how well the friezes fit and what they would  look like.  These are also NOT glued on yet.  They are just lightly tacked on so I could see how they look.  I wanted to see the color and shape of these and if they actually fit.  I have a bit of tweaking to do on these but I do think they look good.  What do you think?  They are literally the actual friezes from the contemporary model.  They are replicated as best I could.....but are very very close.  You can check them out in our gallery on the contemporary model.

 

 

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

fantastic master...

[Stuntflyer]

Love it, Chuck! Could the moldings be added after the frieze is in place in order to hide frieze edge?

 

Mike

[Rustyj]

Great work Chuck. I think having the drop and the figure when building the quarter galleries would really help proof the galleries.

At least for me that is. 

[Chuck]

Maybe but they molding on the qgalleries are tough to do.  These need to be edge bent like the planking at the bow.  Its quite a severe bend actually.

 

so i would be very afraid of smearing glue on the frieze and ruining it.

[Hubac's Historian]

Hi Chuck - this is all fascinating to me.  Your quarter gallery tutorial could not come at a better time!

The frieze is really interesting.  I’m assuming that it’s printed through some process or other.  What I wonder at is that - even with laser-cut parts and a very incisive group build-log, which accounts very nicely for variable results - there are going to be variable results.  So, I wonder at how one maps out something with a specific artistic framing - like a frieze - so that it can accommodate a multiplicity of outcomes.

 

All I can say is - this is incredible!  I’m not asking you to tell me your secrets, but I just wonder at the engineering of the thing.  The results are superb!

 

[Hubac's Historian]

On a separate note - I recently asked another noteworthy modeler on this site about the historic precedent for false windows in the quarter galleries, themselves.  His particular specialty was also the 18th Century, and so, he wasn’t so sure about that tendency for the 17th century.

 

I am wondering whether you have some insight into how far back the practice of faking quarter gallery windows goes.

Edited November 28, 2019 by Hubac's Historian

[Chuck]

Thanks,  that is an easy one.  It wont fit every model.  Other than making things slightly oversize so folks can compensate, there isnt much one can do.  At least not without making the outcome

look extremely kit-like.  If you are shooting for something better, then all that can be done .....is give folks the electronic file so they can stretch it and enlarge it until it fits their model..

 

 

Which is what i will do as well.  About the false lights...I have no idea really.  I just take it one model at a time

[Hubac's Historian]

All good and well.  Thanks for the insight.

[Chuck]

I also forgot to mention.  I am building the Winnie as she was during the American revolution.  At this time,  all ships would have had their names on the upper counter. I am also working on a version of the frieze with the name.  

 

 

But its not very easy to make it look good.  Simply because the name “Winchelsea.” Is so long.  It looks kind of funny.  So i may use what i show in the photos myself even though it should have the name on it.  Its a work in progress.

[Hubac's Historian]

Yes, I agree that that is an interesting problem.  Presumably, the name would be in white, but there are a lot of relatively fine white lines in the frieze.  I think the finer the lettering, the better, but I suppose it would really depend upon where the individual letters fall in the frieze.  Also, maybe a light but complementary yellow ocher would give enough contrast without overpowering the frieze.

 

I guess it comes down to something you have touched upon in this log; is it better to be wholly accurate, including every detail, or to leave some detail out, in the interest of cleaner aesthetics?

 

That’s a tough one!

Edited November 28, 2019 by Hubac's Historian

[Chuck]

Indeed it is something to think about. But as I prefer not to offer “everything in the box kits”, its important to me to at least discuss the possibilities.  Then each builder can decide fir themselves.  Leaving some details to “bash” gives everyone the opportunity to make the model more unique.  Hopefully with so many graphics software packages out there,  folks will have some fun with the frieze.  Import my file and play with it.

[Chuck]

Happy thanksgiving guys!!!!

 

I woke up this morning and hit the head.  Took a selfie with my phone.   Then I started working on the model,  Here I am inspecting the quarter galleries.  The 1/4" scale figure was painted by a friend of mine in my local club.  He made it look like me.

 

[Jack12477]

Nice ! 

[Edwardkenway]

As usual your tutorial is great and will help no end with my own build when I get to doing the quarter galleries. 

Thankyou 👍

PS wouldn't it be handy now and again to be small enough to get on board and do some of the fiddly stuff 😆

Edited November 28, 2019 by Edwardkenway

[Chuck]

For a comparison....the contemporary model vs. my attempt to mimic the same with the friezes.

 

 

[Jack12477]

I would say Mission Accomplished !  That is a very accurate replica, Chuck. As always magnificent craftsmanship.   

[svein erik]

2 hours ago, Chuck said:

Happy thanksgiving guys!!!!

 

I woke up this morning and hit the head.  Took a selfie with my phone.   Then I started working on the model,  Here I am inspecting the quarter galleries.  The 1/4" scale figure was painted by a friend of mine in my local club.  He made it look like me.

 

wonderful work and model..

and it looks like you on the galleri..LOL...😉

[Chuck]

Yes its freaky although Im not that fat yet....but maybe after some turkey and stuffing and pumpkin pie. 😀

[CaptMorgan]

Thats awesome stuff.  Looks good...   Hope everyone has a good Thanksgiving!!!!  🦃🦃

[scrubbyj427]

Outstanding work Chuck! Can’t wait to get to this point. 

happy thanksgiving all!

JJ

[Chuck]

Here is a photo of the frieze with the name

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

I like it.

 

[Rustyj]

Yes that looks really good. I like it too.

[ChrisLBren]

Wow Im impressed - I didnt know how you would be able to pull off the friezes and you've done it !  Kudos !!!!!

[Kusawa2000]

So Chuck: in reading the posts, the intent with the friezes is that a downloaded file will be provided and we hard copy it at our end? And if that is the case I would be interested in what would be recommended for paper (or cardstock?) as well as adhesive. Reading these posts are a real incentive for me as I am making a push to get my Agamemnon done before I start the Winnie. At this point Im nearly done my ratlines and stays. Getting close to the final stretch. 

 

Keep this discussion going. Its been great reading! 

 

Mike Draper

[Chuck]

I have used regular copy paper in the past.  It works fine.  But I am toying around with the idea of experimenting with acid free tissue paper.  Its the same stuff that I use for flags.  In theory it will be easier to hide the cut edges and fold it in place.  Then trim off the excess.  But that is just a theory.  I will try it out tonight.  This test was just done with plain old copy paper.  You can see how the edge turns white after cutting.  I usually use a soft pastel pencil to color this edge....but I am thinking this wont be needed with the tissue paper.

 

 

Chuck

[Kusawa2000]

Chuck: Do keep us posted on your success with the use of acid free tissue paper. Also, any thoughts on what adhesive to use? I always find that a bit of a challenge in getting a adhesive that provides a smooth adhesion. 

 

Mike Draper