HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale

[KenW]

Mike:  I made the stove as well.  It's a great, well made kit.  Only problem I had are with those very small, and breakable, parts to hold the pulley system.

Your effort looks great.

Cheers.

[Chuck]

Looks great Mike...Cant wait to see it all painted and weathered.   

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

I forgot to mention this in my last post. .

 

I made the angle for the drain pipes by placing a drain on each side of a toothpick and then sanded the desired angle.

 

Mike

[Hubac's Historian]

cool tip!

[Mldixon]

Were all the deck guns on the Winnie 12 pounders? I was wondering about the upper deck guns, in case they are 6 pounders. 

[Stuntflyer]

On 10/23/2021 at 12:13 PM, Mldixon said:

Were all the deck guns on the Winnie 12 pounders?

The QD guns are smaller.

 

I started working on the forecastle area of the ship. The first four beams are in along with lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, cat tails and the manger. To my count there were 32 individual pieces needed for the work so far.

 

The manger which consists of 12 pieces was assembled as one. A card stock template along with layered blue masking tape was used to establish the location for the boards which will sit on the deck. Btw, those char lines on the bowsprit step are no longer visible. They were blocked out with some boxwood color mix that was applied before painting the manger red. Also, those arrows show where I drilled for the next gun carriage.

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

Edited November 23, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Rustyj]

Great explanation and execution Mike!

[glbarlow]

Well done, thanks for sharing your technique for planning it out.
 

What is a “boxwood color mix” to cover the char before painting?

[Stuntflyer]

Using Windsor and Newton,  I mixed some yellow ochre, Raw sienna and burnt umber into white until the desired boxwood color was achieved. 

[Stuntflyer]

Fore bitt sheaves: Rather than trying to round off the existing laser cut sheave slots, I prefer to simulate the sheaves with wooded disks.

 

There are 2 sheave slots on these bitts. One is 1/32" wide and the other is 3/64" wide. I used "plastic cutting" end mills to deepen the slots an additional 3/32". This allows for the disk to be recessed slightly after being inserted into the slot. Though not essential, I find that a milling machine makes things a lot easier when doing this kind of work.

 

The diameter of the disks are equal to the length of the slot between the sheave holes. The thickness of the disks are the same as the width of the milled slot. This allows for a press fit into the slot without any gluing being necessary. If for some reason they are a tad loose going in, just brush in some W-O-P in order to hold the disk in place.

 

After inserting the disk, the inside area should be painted black. Any paint that gets onto the face of the bitt can be sanded or scraped off easily with a #11 blade. For added protection you could give the outer area a coat of W-O-P to prevent the paint from seeping into the wood.

 

The slot has been deepened an additional 3/32" which allows the disk to recess below the face of the bitt

 

Note the orientation of the grain. This makes it easy to slice off the tiny section of the disk with a #11 blade.

 

A helping hand to insert the disk into the slot

 

Mike

[Stuntflyer]

With chapter eight completed I thought it would be a good time to post some photos. Please excuse the dust.

 

 

 

Mike

[Chuck]

Beautiful work Mike!!

[Stuntflyer]

Thank you, Chuck!

[glbarlow]

Great work, such expert carpentry and painting. 

[TomShipModel]

Very cleanlyt done Mike.

 

Tom

[Gahm]

Wonderful work, Mike! Your oven looks like you could start preparing dinner on it right away 🙂

 

Thomas

[Stuntflyer]

Glenn, Tom, Thomas, Thank you very much!

 

Mike

[Steve20]

That's incredible work, Mike and a beautiful model.

Steve

[Stuntflyer]

Moving onto chapter 9, I decided to start with the caprail along the waist. I've completed one side. What's interesting is what I had to do in order to get the caprail close to the scroll molding which it sits against at both ends. It was tricky and took some time to do. I'm happy with the result. 

 

Each end had to be shaped like this. .

 

 

Mike

Edited December 2, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[scrubbyj427]

Excellent work Mike...as always! Is it me or is there a small section of your moulding missing along the waist? 
 

JJ

[Stuntflyer]

Yup! Your the first one to spot that. Those areas will be where the fenders are going.

 

Mike

[glbarlow]

That’s really excellent detailed work on the cap rail. I hope to borrow that some day. 

[scrubbyj427]

Ok thanks, that’s kinda what I was thinking but I don’t have my drawings nearby for reference. Looking good!

[hamilton]

Some very fine joinery on a standard-setting build! Love following your work Mike

hamilton

[WalrusGuy]

Beautiful work, Mike. Your photos are also amazing and sharp. What camera do you use? 

[Stuntflyer]

Just my older Nikon D5100 with a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens. A tripod of course.

 

Mike

[Moonbug]

3 hours ago, Stuntflyer said:

A tripod of course.

 

  This makes ALL the difference, especially with Macro.

[Stuntflyer]

Work continues on chapter nine with some of the forecastle planking completed. W-O-P has not been applied which makes it harder to see the butt joints. Hopefully you will see enough to get the idea. That center piece behind the bollards was made that way which makes it easier to hold. The grain runs port and starboard. This makes it easier to slice off that long tab after the glue dries.

 

 

 

Mike

Edited December 29, 2021 by Stuntflyer

[Gahm]

Wonderful work! It is a delight to follow your build log!

 

Thomas

[glbarlow]

Inspirational as always...