Black Pearl by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - 1/72 Scale

[Old Collingwood]

2 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

catching up on your progress OC,  and I must say...your doing a splendid job!   don't be too concerned if the dead eyes and lanyards are a tiny bit off........it looks more natural.  having them all the same length is merely for appearance purposes only    figured someone would have told you this......it pleases me to break the news to ya     here's another little tip for ya.........if you were to touch the woolings on the masts {those wrappings on the first mast steps} fore,  main and mizzen,  it will enhance her a bit more.   you can either use a color close to the standing rigging,  or a flat brown,  thinned down a bit....kinda like a wash.  it's a bit more detail.......it's up to you if you want to do it.........you've done a really great job with the weathering along the entire model.   the dead eyes on the tops came out nice as well........the smaller size is some really good thinking.

 

keep up the stellar work......she's look'in superb!   

Thank you so much denis.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

OC im loving this build of yours, just wish i had the time and lots of popcorn to watch you all day

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all,   I painted the anchors  then did my normal weathering - after this I lashed the anchor to the  anchor rope tied it using the normal method  and lased the end of the rope, I then sat it against the hull and lashed some thread around the bulwark,   then I ran some more thread down from the cathead to the anchor ring.

 

Just the two pics.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

1 minute ago, Old Collingwood said:

Evening all,   I painted the anchors  then did my normal weathering - after this I lashed the anchor to the  anchor rope tied it using the normal method  and lased the end of the rope, I then sat it against the hull and lashed some thread around the bulwark,   then I ran some more thread down from the cathead to the anchor ring.

 

Just the two pics.

 

OC.

lol taken me three days to do just the same

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, Kevin said:

OC im loving this build of yours, just wish i had the time and lots of popcorn to watch you all day

Thank you kevin,    cant give more time  but guess  there is lots of popcorn going around  - if not I would have words with the regulars.

 

OC.

[cog]

OC, instead of adding light streaks to the anchor, have you thought about dark ones ... now the metal looks like wood ...

[harlequin]

Just popped by for look at Black Pearl.....looks superb...the ghostly shades are perfect.

[Old Collingwood]

10 hours ago, cog said:

OC, instead of adding light streaks to the anchor, have you thought about dark ones ... now the metal looks like wood ...

Hiya mate  was going to try for a rusted look  but dont have any weathering paints to do that.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

9 hours ago, harlequin said:

Just popped by for look at Black Pearl.....looks superb...the ghostly shades are perfect.

Hi there,   thanks for that  and popping in.

 

OC.

[cog]

10 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Hiya mate  was going to try for a rusted look  but dont have any weathering paints to do that.

 

OC.

red/brownish would do ... considering the overall colour a wee bitta black

[Old Collingwood]

3 minutes ago, cog said:

red/brownish would do ... considering the overall colour a wee bitta black

Thanks mate  - I could just blacken the metal parts and leave the stock as it is.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

17 hours ago, cog said:

OC, instead of adding light streaks to the anchor, have you thought about dark ones ... now the metal looks like wood ...

This is what I am hoping to achieve  (pic curtosy of the net)

 

OC.

[cog]

You should be able to accomplish that. Either you start with a base layer of redish-brown and add (diluted) layers if the greyish/blue and streaks of white, or add diluted redish/brown spots on the metal parts ... I'll be waiting ...

[Old Collingwood]

5 hours ago, cog said:

You should be able to accomplish that. Either you start with a base layer of redish-brown and add (diluted) layers if the greyish/blue and streaks of white, or add diluted redish/brown spots on the metal parts ... I'll be waiting ...

I chickened out  - just left them black.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Good day all,    I have fitted the other anchor   but decided to leave the metal parts just black.

 

Just a few pics -

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Im back again  - I got bored so I decided to have a go at the ratlines on the foremast shrouds - I started on the bottom row as this did not need a template,  but also fitted the top one - I simply tied the end and did a simple wrap around then a dab of ca  on each shroud,   then I tied off at the end with a dab of ca,  thats all I fitted as I will need to make a paper template for the rest of the spacing.

While I was at the foremast I decided to fit the topmast side tention rope  - down to a deadeye, same procedure as the shrouds.

 

Just the one pic  - you can just make out the first row of ratlines.

 

OC.

Edited March 10, 2019 by Old Collingwood

[Piet]

Nice work OC.

Cheers,

[CDW]

32 minutes ago, Piet said:

Nice work OC.

Cheers,

He's really turning this model into something special.

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Piet said:

Nice work OC.

Cheers,

Thank you so much Piet.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

30 minutes ago, CDW said:

He's really turning this model into something special.

Two things  100%  making this build so much more achievable   -  the quality of the kit parts    and the scale   1/72   makes it so much easier to work on, if it had been half the size or similar to the Airfix  kits, it would have been alot harder.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Just thinking ahead  what needs to be done - in a kind of order to finish her  - 

 

Attach the foremast/top  tentioning rope to the other side (includes attaching to deadeye)

Tention then lash and glue the forestay - bowsprit rope.

Attach the upper shrouds to the fore -upper mast  - both sides  (only three each side to be done)

Attach the topgallant  tentioning rope to both sides including deadeyes.

Continue fixing the ratlines to the fore - shrouds (both sides in sequence  - so I dont get bored with the momentum)

Start on the upper shrouds ratlines  - again in sequence.

Move on to mainmast  and make and attach the shrouds  - still in sequence.

Work on the top/topgallant mast including the lift blocks  - the fit when painted.weathered.

Attach the main tops  lift ropes to the lashing points on the deck.

Construct the mainmast - tops including deadeyes - paint/weather then fit.

Continue attaching the ratlines.

Attach the main/top tentioning rope  and run down both sides to the deadeyes.

Construct  a mizzen top to main middle including serving  - and attach to  mizzen/mainmast including block.

Move onto the main top shrouds and fit in the same manner.

Fit the ratlines.

Do the same with the main topgallant tentioning ropes.

Move onto the mizzen mast  - work on the lower shrouds.

Construct the mizzen tops  - same procedure as other two.

Fit the ratlines.

Fit the mizzen tentioning ropes.

Add any last minute tentioning ropes.

 

That completes the standing rigging   -  then  move onto to building my spars out of different size wood dowels I have.

 

OC.

 

 

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by Old Collingwood

[Old Collingwood]

Evening all  -  I have done somthing  Utterly Stupid   and have brought my build to a standstill   -  I was cleaning my magnifier glass  and stupidly used the rought side of  a cleaning sponge  and its scratched it so bad its frosted over and I can see through it,   when its wet I can see through it but when dry its like looking through fog.

 

Does anyone Please please have any advice what i can do to fix the situation  - cant go out and buy a new one.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Prior to my disaster  I was painting the mast wooldings  black  - then I was going around the masts and different other sections applying a few coats of flat coat  to dull everything down,   then I  fitted an extreme front  topgallant - bowsprit stay,   and at the same time dry fitted both side topgallant tention ropes.

 

Here a few pics  -

 

OC.

[mtaylor]

45 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Evening all  -  I have done somthing  Utterly Stupid   and have brought my build to a standstill   -  I was cleaning my magnifier glass  and stupidly used the rought side of  a cleaning sponge  and its scratched it so bad its frosted over and I can see through it,   when its wet I can see through it but when dry its like looking through fog.

 

Does anyone Please please have any advice what i can do to fix the situation  - cant go out and buy a new one.

 

OC.

 

Check with someplace local like one of those mall shops where they claim "glasses in a hour".   They should have some glass rouge (spelling?).   Soft cloth and that it should be polished with some elbow grease.    Otherwise, google it on line and see what's available nearby.

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello OC

 

Mark is right, it is called Jeweller's  Rouge.

 

Jo.

[Old Collingwood]

6 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

 

Check with someplace local like one of those mall shops where they claim "glasses in a hour".   They should have some glass rouge (spelling?).   Soft cloth and that it should be polished with some elbow grease.    Otherwise, google it on line and see what's available nearby.

I have been trying to use what we have in the house  wahing up liquid  or household kitchen cleaner  with a piece of cloth rubbing it in and trying to buff it,  but not making much difference  the scratches are very noticable - lots and lots of circular scratches.

 

I could seriously Kick myself  - I should have used my head and known that the abrasive side of the sponge would scratch the glass,  It will just have to wait  wrong time of the  month.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

its a great idea having a list of things to do,  problem is that it is slowed down by a bigger list of things to do which you dont know about yet, 

 

love your progress she is looking great

 

i presume the lens is plastic 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sumex-QUIXX20-Plastic-Polish-Scratch/dp/B004KKOMIM/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=55975971489&hvadid=259104816685&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1006563&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3540535818710459271&hvtargid=kwd-309255416550&keywords=scratch+remover+for+plastic&qid=1552424137&s=gateway&sr=8-2&tag=googhydr-21

 

Edited March 12, 2019 by Kevin

[Old Collingwood]

10 minutes ago, Kevin said:

its a great idea having a list of this to do, just that it is slowed down by a bigger list of things to do which you dont know about yet, 

 

love your progress she is looking great

 

i presume the lens is plastic https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sumex-QUIXX20-Plastic-Polish-Scratch/dp/B004KKOMIM/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=55975971489&hvadid=259104816685&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1006563&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3540535818710459271&hvtargid=kwd-309255416550&keywords=scratch+remover+for+plastic&qid=1552424137&s=gateway&sr=8-2&tag=googhydr-21

 

I think its glass  - its heavy enough to be   - its part of a stand with a heavy  base  that has a flexible light, and the magnifier, both drop into holes in the base and can be swung around, it has a heavy power pack.

 

Here is a pic showing the magnifier and scratches.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

brasso apparantly is ok for glass, but im surprised it was damaged that much just using the wrong side of a sponge

 

[Kevin]