IL Leudo by SHIPSCAT (Jolene) - Mamoli - scale 1:34

[SHIPSCAT]

7 minutes ago, src said:

LOL, Thats a lot words.

Sam

Hi Sam

It's a bit daffadown dilly I know 🤣.

 

Jo.

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello all

 

Well the lower deck planking is on, now have to sand it down 😒.

 

Jo.

[S.Coleman]

I rekon once the first planks of the hull are on and all looks aligned it will come up very solid.

[SHIPSCAT]

19 hours ago, S.Coleman said:

very solid

Hello Scott

I do hope so, I know one thing this sanding is harder than I thought, very bad for my fingers 😫.

 

Jo.

[src]

Jo,

These can be very helpful for sanding.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Sanding-Detail-Replacement-Plastics/dp/B079GHS13V?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B079GHS13V

 

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello

 

Question what glue do you use for balsa wood.

 

Jo.

[vossiewulf]

Same glues you use for regular wood.

[BETAQDAVE]

On 3/30/2019 at 7:27 PM, mtaylor said:

"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.   

    Seems like I've heard that before from several drill sergeants in the service.  (Among many other comments.) 

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello shipmates

 

Ok I am so, so, so, sorry I have let myself down but most of all I have let you all down, so sorry.

 

I was trying to be clever, I thought I would stain the lower deck planking but it turned out to be a mess, mess and more mess I feel like a Khyber Pass (sure you can work that one out haha).

 

But hey I have to look on the bright side you will not see it when the top deck goes on ☺️.

 

Jo (SORRY).

 

[src]

Jo,

Nothing to be sorry about. That was a great place to learn. It will never be seen. Is this the same material you will use on the hull? Most of us who stain do a work up on scrap to see what color we want and how the the wood will react with the stain.Dont stress over it, its on the inside, its going to be dark and lots more going on deck to draw the eye away.

 

When you get ready to sand and stain the hull pop over to the finishing forums and spend some time there researching staining. 

 

It looks like you didnt get all the glue off before you stained. Also if that is bass wood, it is notorious for splotching. Some pre stain conditioner will help there.

 

A much more friendly finish for the new finisher is Danish Oil. Here in the States a common brand is Watco. It is extremely easy to apply and on a splotch prone wood like Bass Wood or Cherry it can be a real bonus. A lot of builders here like wipe on poly, I think you can get that with a colorant also, you will need to check, or I am sure a wipe-on fan will chime in. What you wont get the above finishes is a "3 foot deep" finish like you get with a stain/clear coat film finish. Take a look at this article to get a feel for the different finishes. FYI my Enterprise is an oil finish albeit with several steps before the final oil and wax. https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish

 

We are here for you, we've all had a project go south on us. This is where the "Adapt and Overcome" parts of Adapt, Improvise and overcome come into play. You can do this.

 

Khyber Pass??? I've been on the Donner Pass before, now those people had a rough time of it.

 

edit One other thing, I cant recommend strongly enough, do a test on some scrap before you stain your hull.

 

Best,

Sam

Edited April 9, 2019 by src

[lmagna]

Like Sam said good place to have this happen if you are not happy with it.

 

To me it looks like the perfect working deck of a small cargo or fishing ship that has hauled a lot over the years. It's a cargo deck, not the Lido deck! 

[Ulises Victoria]

Hey Jo... don't be sorry. This is part of the learning experience! We all have been through that!

Take a note of what you think went wrong. And when you make another mistake in a future build, (note I say "when" not "if") use it to add to your collection of learning process!!!  That is how you will get better and better!!!

 

[pontiachedmark]

Gidday Jo.

You should not apologise to us your fellow shipmates.

We have all been there and made mistakes and will invariably make more.

If we can learn from our mistakes than it is not a complete waste of time and energy.

Believe me when I say, I know how easy it is to become despondent.

Maintain your positive attitude and hopefully things will work out.

All the best.

Mark.

 

[Jolley Roger]

You are doing great so far Jo.  

Another important lesson to learn for a novice - how to hide your mistakes

[mtaylor]

I'm with the others on this.   If you didn't, when you apply the stain, wait a bit and wipe it off with cloth.  Some of what's showing in the picture looks like it "puddled".   But yes, the finishing forum can give you a lot of help in this area.

[Altduck]

Jo,

 

Just got back for another look at your build, and you've been making a lot of good progress.

 

Regarding the lower deck and your concern about the appearance - if any of it will be visible when the model is finished, how about adding some cargo to break up the bare expanse of that deck.

 

I'm thinking you could make some crates, sacks, barrels, etc and stow them down there, where the viewer could see them, before you close it all in.

 

And if none of it will be visible when the model is finished - chalk it up to experience and move on.  You're doing great.   

[Richmond]

Jo I recently built a large book case in pine recently and had to do a lot of staining - as it was a softwood I sanded and primed the wood before I stained which prevented the blotching effect. 

 

 

Edited April 10, 2019 by Richmond

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello all

 

Ok I have put that horrible staining job behind me now 😫.

 

I have now put the other 3mm x 3mm strips of wood on the top of the frames.

Also the planking that forms the walls to the cabin, they have to be lined with walnut strips (think it is walnut).

 

I did note that the centre strip that goes down the frames and passes through the cabin that bit has to be cut off later, but you have not got much room after the walls have been glued on, so I cut that part off now, some steps have to go down to the lower deck in that area.

 

I have also glued some parts on the front and back of the keel, I think that is where the hull planking is glued on.

 

Jo.

 

[SHIPSCAT]

Hi All

 

Today is sanding the frames day wish me luck.

 

Jo.

[vossiewulf]

I think it's hard to sand the frames that way with the parts to be sanded all floating free. If you don't want to use filler blocks, then you can at least take some square stock and cut short pieces and glue them between the outer parts of each bulkhead pair. That will stiffen the structure quite a bit and make sanding much easier.

[SHIPSCAT]

2 hours ago, vossiewulf said:

filler blocks

Hello vossiewulf

I just tried sanding the frames and I am going to take your advice and put balsa wood in.

 

Jo.

[src]

1 hour ago, SHIPSCAT said:

Hello vossiewulf

I just tried sanding the frames and I am going to take your advice and put balsa wood in.

 

Jo.

At least the first and last 3 bulkheads Jo. It will make fitting your planks so much easier.

Sam

[SHIPSCAT]

38 minutes ago, Wallace said:

If you don't mind I will hop aboard

Hello Wallace

 

You are most welcome to follow as long as you don't cry with laughter.

 

Jo.

[popeye the sailor]

hello Jo......I just caught up with your log.....I see you've done a super job so far     your about to fare the frame...the term folks call it.  what you achieve here is to contour the frame edges,  so that the planking rests on the full bulkhead.....not just the corner of it.  if not done,  the planking takes on a clunky look.......you'll see bulkhead ripples down the frame,  particularly at the bow and stern.  I use a dry wall sander for this,  but you can also use any rectangular wood block.....as long as it's length spans over two or three bulkheads.  the parts you've added { #21 & #22 - a pair of each}  to the bow and stern stems,  are called rabbits.  your correct in thinking that the planking will cement to them........you'll need to fare them along with the rest of the frame.  no need to bare down hard,  but make long strokes over the bulkheads from bow to stern.  when I do it,  it makes a horrible noise......but as the bulkheads level out,  it will become less and less noisy.  I gauge it by this noise.......I call it making music........the admiral calls it terrible and sends me to the garage     the weather is getting better.......I've got a few projects I need to bring out there....major sanding.  be as even as you can and pay special attention to the bow and stern........make sure they are rounded to the contour of the ship your building.  your staining fiasco isn't the end of the world.....you won't see that much of it anyway,  and dark hides a lot of sin.  as for the filler wood......I wouldn't bother.  the only real places to do it is at the bow and stern,  and these two areas are the sturdiest parts of the frame.  added in any where else,  and you may run the risk of seeing it through the holds.  I read earlier,  it was said that terminology wasn't that important...it is to a degree.  it does help to know some parts of the ship.....it will help more when reading the plans.  I don't care for their instructions any.....they don't explain too much either.  I gotta go......but one more thing to remember,  is to check the part your working with.  it may need to be shaped or manipulated to fit properly.   the manufacturer does give you a bit of material to work with when fitting the part on the model.  fit and double check before cement is used.   your doing fine.......don't let the model scare you.......you'll find what works and what doesn't    remember........there's a masterpiece in that box somewhere........it's your task to find it   

[Richmond]

Jo for the planking you may wish to have a look one Chucks builds maybe the one currently sitting in the group projects - he is very detailed with his explanations. Each ship is different but I find his explanations very good especially on planking.

[mtaylor]

There's quite a few planking tutorials in the data base (Chuck's is one of them) which you can find here:   http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php.   A total of four.  Start with the Hull Planking for Beginners at the top of the page.

 

BTW, the database has quite a few topics if you click the link (upper right hand side).

[pontiachedmark]

Gidday Jo.

I am glad you are moving forward with the build.

I can second the recommendations made above re planking.

The tutorials available are invaluable.

Remember to ask questions, no one on this site will laugh.

I wish you all the best in your endeavours.

Mark.

[Seamanpeter]

Wow, so far so good. Came far my dear.

Sanding is not so difficult, take care not to much as you cannot built it up again.

Take a side plank and keep it against the frames on the outside and then you will see how much you have to take, is an easy job to be honest, just get used to it.

Anyway, wish you luck and you come that far, the rest will also be great.

One at the time and specially, give it time to dry!!

Good luck and we talk again.

Peter

[SHIPSCAT]

Hello shipmates

 

Ok please, please don't shout at me I am trying my best.

 

I have started filling in-between the frames with balsa wood.

 

I thought balsa wood was soft ☺️, well I put large blocks in and thought I would cut and sand them back, so I started to cut one block and all was Ok till I got to the next one (all on the other side of the hull no photos of them) well it is as hard as concrete, the man next door said it is end grain I was cutting (what ever that is).

 

So I thought I would finish them of back and front, I have pre shaped one side, then I will get the Dremel out and put a sanding drum on it and sand it all down.

 

Ok you can all get off the floor now and dry your eyes from the laughing 🤣.

 

Jo.

 

 

 

[cog]

Odd, even endgrain on balsa is soft, balsa is soft which ever way you cut it, although, cutting cross grain will be slightly harder. Take a rough file and work it down to a sandable "thickness", or a small hand saw to cut it back