Missouri by semorebutts - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC - Pontos detail up & advanced add on

[semorebutts]

I havn’t seen that movie yet. But i want to.  

I’m thinking about adding interior lighting to MO. though I have no idea how yet...any thoughts?

[popeye the sailor]

after seeing what a tremendous job you did on the Bismark,  I'm definitely following along!  you sure have your work cut out for you     I have the New Jersey,  an already started kit that Lou thought I'd be interested in.  the fellow building it died......Lou got it from his brother.  the paint work that he did is very good.......I won't be changing it.   that's quite a bit of aftermarket stuff..........scares the dickens out of me,  that there's so much out there!

 

looks like a fantastic journey......gonna be a fun project to be sure!   

[lmagna]

4 hours ago, paulsutcliffe said:

Mighty Mo did a great job against the aliens

I had forgotten about that battle. I always thought it was convenient that they keep a museum ship fueled with a few live 16" rounds laying around like a floating minuteman. Oh well it was still fun to watch.

[lmagna]

4 hours ago, semorebutts said:

though I have no idea how yet...any thoughts?

The least expensive option is the Christmas or Fairy lights that are available all over the place.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/YIHONG-2-Set-String-Lights-8-Modes-50LED-Fairy-Lights-Battery-Operated-16-4FT/264238952018?epid=20027810493&hash=item3d85de6e52:g:EEsAAOSwoG1cimdq

 

They come in a number of colors, some are remote controlled, and some also have an AC converter if you don't want to rely on batteries, and they fit almost anywhere.

[JohnEnglish]

Fantastic, I'm really looking forward to this. 

 

15 hours ago, lmagna said:

One can not help but remember though that the Missouri was hit in the side by a Kamikaze and it barley scratched the paint! (No really, they say that she still carries the dent).

 

Yup, you can see the dent here, just forward of the aft turret.

 

 

Here is a view from the deck showing the dent in the rail.

Edited March 14, 2019 by JohnEnglish

[semorebutts]

Fairy lights seem like s perfect idea!  I imagine a wArm white color would best simulate 1940s bulbs. 

[lmagna]

22 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

I imagine a wArm white color would best simulate 1940s bulbs. 

I think you will find the warm white is best anyway. Almost all lights look yellow when viewed from a distance and the warm white mimic that color. The short battery operated lights with 10 or 20 lights only cost a couple of dollars or so. They all seem to come from China though so you may have to wait for a couple of weeks. 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=fairy+lights+battery+operated&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1

 

Having said that, you may want to buy a set or two of the battery operated white strings. I bought a couple of strings of 20 light warm and white to use as test light on the 1/350 Titanic I am working on for my wife. I discovered that in the case of the over 800 portholes of two sizes in the hull it will take more light to get it out than I anticipated. I think I will need to do a little reaming on the inside and then either paint the inside white or even possibly silver. 

 

For Nav lights I thought I might be able to paint or in some way color the bulb with red or blue to make green and hopefully a reasonable red color. an alternative would be to replace individual lights in the string by soldering replacement colors where needed. Red for the bridge interior would also be appropriate I think.  

[lmagna]

2 hours ago, JohnEnglish said:

Yup, you can see the dent here, just forward of the aft turret.

Wow John!

I knew of the hit and damage from books but I have never seen it pointed out. Your post made me look for more and instead I found this:

The Imprint of a Mitsubishi kamikaze Zero along the side of H.M.S Sussex. 1945.

 

Thanks.

Edited March 14, 2019 by lmagna

[CDW]

9 minutes ago, lmagna said:

For Nav lights I thought I might be able to paint or in some way color the bulb with red or blue to make green and hopefully a reasonable red color. an alternative would be to replace individual lights in the string by soldering replacement colors where needed. Red for the bridge interior would also be appropriate I think.  

Tamiya sells the transparent colors you need...red, green, blue, orange, etc.

[lmagna]

13 minutes ago, CDW said:

Tamiya sells the transparent colors you need...red, green, blue, orange, etc.

Do you think the yellowish color of the LED would alter the color of the paint?

[CDW]

17 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Do you think the yellowish color of the LED would alter the color of the paint?

Never tried it, so can't say for sure. With Christmas lights, the color of the glass seems to work just fine, so don't have reason to think it would be any different.

[semorebutts]

I figured i would post an update while I wait for glue to dry. 

I glued the 2 hull pieces together. 

check out the stress line above the tape  

i dont know if i should drill out these holes

or these above the portholes

or these in the back

oh man there is alot of sanding in my future

look at the size of her! the Bismarck could fit nicely into MO’s hull. 

Edited March 16, 2019 by semorebutts

[BenF89]

Have you seen Koppalakki’s build log for his Missouri? There might be some information there about what should get drilled where. Though, he’s going more for end of service life.

 

That said, the small holes at the stem probably should not be drilled- I believe those are locators for draft marks.

 

 

[semorebutts]

For no real reason I decided to drill out thoses holes

then it was time to take care of this joint. I used vallejo plastic putty. 

i used progressively finer sand paper. 

When I shut my eyes and run my fingers across the joint  and cant feel it I’m done sanding. 

I wonder what those holes are for?

I am currently working on the Eduard hull plates. The instructions are pretty straight forward. I wonder why they are rusty or red? 

 there are 22 on each side of the hull. I marked a line every 35mm starting here

and ending here

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

On 3/14/2019 at 10:15 AM, paulsutcliffe said:

Mighty Mo did a great job against the aliens in battleship, so I'm sure the Bismarck would have been easy 😁😁

Now that was a good film  - far fetched but good.

 

OC.

[Joe100]

8 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Now that was a good film  - far fetched but good.

 

OC.

You know, I thought the same thing. A battleship vs aliens was just fun! Especially where they powerslide the darn thing. 

Edited March 19, 2019 by Joe100

[semorebutts]

I got one side of the hull plates on today. Took longer than i thought. 

I hope that hole is not important  

Edited March 20, 2019 by semorebutts

[Jack12477]

That's an interesting jig you are using.  Looking good !  

[semorebutts]

It came with the PE.  It worked great

[GrandpaPhil]

On 3/19/2019 at 1:04 AM, Joe100 said:

You know, I thought the same thing. A battleship vs aliens was just fun! Especially where they powerslide the darn thing. 

16” guns at point blank range! 😃

[RGL]

Massive task mate. It will suck up a huge amount of aftermarket, it’s always confusing as Pontos seems to have so many advanced add ons you don’t know where it stops. 

[semorebutts]

Yup! And To make things even harder The pontos  instructions are pretty awful. 

[RGL]

No matter who makes PE, it’s all pretty poor. An amazing amount of research and zero tolerances and there is an expectation you are an engineer. Pretty much advanced users only. My latest instructions say look at the photos for guidance for pieces that are not mentioned in the instructions. 

[semorebutts]

Haha Eduard hull plating PE instructions said to “ refer to photos of the actual ship for starting point”  after you figure that out then they are 35mm apart. If I could have pontos PE with MK1 instructions ide be very happy. 

[semorebutts]

Hey guys sorry this is getting off to a slow start. 

I spent 3 hours this morning cleaning up there mess! Which took away Model time. 

I cut out the rudders and glued them together. 

I love the rivet details

then I just sanded all visible sides. I love all of these Sanders. I have tried sanding sticks made for modeling but I still find these much better. 

also there are 32 portholes on the hull. I don’t see much Pontos porthole PE. I don’t know why.There’s tons of portholes on MO....  I had left over MK1 portholes for the Bismarck so I will use those for the hull portholes. 

that’s basically all I did.  I will try to speed things up soon.   I wish this workshop was at my house so I could work on it anytime. 

[popeye the sailor]

catching up.......you've made good progress.......look'in good  

[lmagna]

On 3/31/2019 at 8:45 AM, semorebutts said:

I wish this workshop was at my house so I could work on it anytime. 

It's really just a conspiracy by your parents to get you over  little more often................ and to clean up after the birds!

Maybe things will change and you will be able to try the home thing again down the road.

Edited April 4, 2019 by lmagna

[semorebutts]

Hopefully!  The birds are mine though at my house.  They are why the Bismarck is still at my parents house until I get a display case made.  I’m sure the Bismarck looks delicious and tempting for them to destroy.  Just look at those sharp beaks...just waiting for a model ship. 

[semorebutts]

I already have a hard time keeping them away from the these. 

[channell]

Just FYI Semore... there are no portholes on the hulls of the Iowa class ships. The kit has holes just above the waterline that are molded the size of portholes but on the real ship they are drain scuttles. 

Edited April 5, 2019 by channell