HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Guillermo Madico - semi scratch build

[Stuntflyer]

Looking good! Keep in mind that the friezes will cover some of the planked edges at the ports. The more even (straight) the planked edge, the easier it will be to cut the frieze.

 

Mike

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Mike,

I am considering other options, maybe hand painting, just grey-blue paint, and other ideas but has not settle for any.

I was hopping others will adventure changes or opinions to evaluate my possibilities and to figure out if they are beyond my abilities.
G

 

 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

I am advancing the second side of the gun ports and doing the top tabs.

I made 3 marks: the inner aligned with the vertical of the port, the second at the end of the diagonal cut, and the outer just for margins of error.  This tabs tend to move right or left as you work them an need some room to adjust. I am using a wider plank (5/16 per Chuck instructions). Don’t cut the plank to exact length for this same reason.

 

I marked with a pencil the with of the plank to fit the run.  I used a 1/4 plank as reference.

My belt sander got read of the excess wood close to the pencil line

 

 

I used a diamond file and sanding block remove all the rest of the wood pass the pencil like

 

The placed the 5/16 and 1/4 plank side by side to use the 1/4 plank as a template and sanded the 5/16 plank until both planks widths matched.

 

I used a mini chisel to remove wood from the corners up to the middle mark to start the tab.

 

Sorry about the pictures, they are one handed with my phone.

I marked the diagonal cut shied of what needed an use a file to remove the wood from the corners.

 

What ever amount you are thinking to remove, divided it in 3 and remove only a 3rd.  It is easy to go over and remove too much.

In the picture above, the left side is almost there but the right side needs more wood to be removed.  I turn now to the mini chisel but the diamond file will do.  I want to keep chart edges.  I removed less than 1/64 of wood in the right side.  The objective is to close the gap between the planks evenly (it is now about 2mm).
 

The gap between the planks in the picture above is 1mm. I removed a little form both sides with the chisel. The picture below shows that the tab now fits the gap.

It is almost done but notice that the top edge of the gun port need to be adjusted to follow the horizontal of the gun port.  For this port I needed to remove wood from the horizontal part of the plank in the left side to bring the tab down a little (~ 1mm).

I sanded a little more that side for a better fit and used the pencil to simulate caulking.

 

Final test before gluing.

 

 

The glued plank below before sanding.

 

 

I am curious to find out how others made this tab top tabs.  I may be over complicating this.

best,

G

 

[Rustyj]

Great job! That is very close to the way I did mine. Very good explanation too.

[JpR62]

Superb ! Thank you for sharing your method. Very informative step by step. It will be of great help !

[Chuck]

That is how it is done.   No tricks.  Just careful step by step.  Nicely done.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck, Jean-Paul and Rusty.  
I enjoyed the challenge it was worth it to do the tabs.

I finished both the port and sea sides gun ports next the whales.  I was planing to place the center plank first taking measurements fro the plans and add the other 4 planks; two each side.  Will that work?

 

 

 

 

Best,

G

 

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Cant see why it wouldnt work.  Although I prefer to start at the top of the wales.  This way, if I screw up and have to shift some of the lower planks it wont be as noticeable.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck, I will follow your advise. 
G

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

I have finished the port side wale.  I used artist tape as a reference line.  This worked great to guide the edge of the plank and to stop the glue from running.

 

 

 I glued the black strake first.

 

I added the next strake but painted the plank edges black 

 

This is a detail of the black strake and the first wale strake with the edge painted

 

I added all strakes and sanded it

 

 

Painted 6 layers of diluted black paint (maybe 7) as Chuck recommends 

 

Detail of the finished wale

 

Best,

G

 

 

 

 

 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

I promised Jorge to show the whale near the counter.  I planked the counter over the first layer of wales and the second layer of wale over it.  It makes shaping the counter edges with a sanding block easy by using the hull lines as reference.  The second layer covers the planking edges.  Overlapping edges makes for a sound joint and the result is cleaner.

 

 Below is the black strike. I use files and a sand block to remove the wood from the end

wale strikes next. Notice how sharp the angle is at the lower edge.  I have not added the peace to support The rest of the hull planks. I will do that later.

 

The finished edge.  I will paint the edge black later.  There will be more planking an sanding first.

 

Best,

G

 

 

[Chuck]

Lovely progress.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck;

A small update. I have finished both wales.  The first plank at the bow was narrowed to match the lower planks (to be added) rather than the black strake.

 

As Chuck mentioned, at this point it starts to look like a frigate.

I have used a combination of black water-based wood stain and water-based wood conditioner (1/3 + 2/3) six layers; sanding in between (1000 grid) to paint the wales and get a satin translucent black color reminiscent of ebony.  It has just about as much reflective of light.  Hope the pictures show it.

Best,

G

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Beautiful work.  You are doing an exceptional job on the model.  Your careful and crisp workmanship is clearly shown in the results.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck and than you for all the likes.

I have finished the first belt and thank goodness there were no surprises.

I used Chuck´s supplied tick marks templates which saved a lot of time.  
 

 
I marked  couple of planks to use them as templates.  It is faster this way and I save the templates for the other side.

The template is aligned to the plank and copied to the new plank.  Then the belt sander removes the Eccles wood to the pencil line.  A sand block does the rest.

 

 

Template aligned with paper holders

 

 

My plan for the plank joins for the belt displaced with paper holders 

 

 

 

  
Next the other side.

Best,

G

[Chuck]

Beautifully done.....glad the tick strips were of help!!!

[Rustyj]

Very nice workmanship! Yes those tick strips were a great help.

[captain_hook]

Beautiful model, very clean build!

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck, Rustyj, and C. Hook for your comments.

A small update. I am half way there with the hull planking.  This is the most challenging par but for me, the most entertaining.

 

 

 

 

Best,

G

 

 

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

Very nice job on the planking. Looks great. 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Rusty and all For the likes.

I am getting closer to finish the hull.  So far so good, symmetry have survived and the lines look clean.

I have sanded it with 220 grid almost to the finish stage. 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Best,

G

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Very nice work! 

JJ

[Chuck]

Wonderful planking.  Once youve planked a hull after lining it off,  you will never plank one without doing so again.  The results speak for themselves.

[Wahka_est]

Magnificent job! I cant even plank my deck do clean

 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you JJ, Chuck and Wahka for your complements.  Wahka you made me laugh; you are a funny guy 👍🏻.

I have finally reach the pint for the last hull plank.  Thought I will share the process.

 

As Chuck recommended, I measured at every frame and tapered the planks. The plank needed was wider than 1l4.  Then both edges were beveled about 10 degree angle. The corners facing down were sanded a little to led the glue run out (about 45 degree angle).  Pencil was used (both upper and lower edges) to simulate caulking (I use a Jumbo HB Fabre Castle pencil).

 

 

 

I put a bead of glue in the facing down edge. See below, by tuning my finger down and forward the bead is created.  This helps for less glue to squeeze out while gluing the plank.

I Also use CA glue in every frame.  The plank is put in place and held down for 60 secs (now clamps because is the last).  With a wet paper towel, excess glue and pencil marks are wiped clean.

 

 

 

I used both hands but one is holding my phone for the picture.

 

 

The very last one at the stern.

 

 

DONE!

 

 

 

 

Next steps, final sanding, wood sealer and finish.

Best,

G

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

That looks fantastic. Well done.   Your order for the other parts shipped out today so its perfect timing.

 

Chuck

[Rustyj]

Beautiful planking job! She's something to be proud of!

[scrubbyj427]

Very very nice! Bet that feels great!

 

JJ

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Thank you Chuck, Rusty and JJ.

I am doing the final coats to the model and will post more pictures. 
In the mean time, Christmas in summer, new materials from Syren arrived. 
Thank you Chuck

 

Best,

G

[Edwardkenway]

Very very nice planking, crisp and clean! Great job G😁