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1936 Rolls Royce Phantom III by CDW - Revell - 1:16 scale


CDW

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I'm  in also  Craig.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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1985 Vintage, 37 years young.... There's one available on evilbay right now at $265.00...

 

I sold mine three years ago for 175....

 

I'm in, it's a gorgeous model worth doing right...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Just now, Egilman said:

1985 Vintage, 37 years young.... There's one available on evilbay right now at $265.00...

 

I sold mine three years ago for 175....

 

I'm in, it's a gorgeous model worth doing right...

Dang, I just started an old model that's been sitting around here for over 30 years and now learn it was worth almost half of that I needed to buy the 1:32 Border Models Lancaster (Wingnut Wings design). Sheesh...what have I done? Oh well, maybe I can sell it built. Done that many times before.

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might be a good idea.....back then,  there wasn't much in the way of 'real' chrome on 'em. 

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Couple of years ago, bought some tubes of AK True Metal wax paste in various metallic shades. I never got around to using it so decided to try some out on the Rolls V-12 engine block. Photos I’ve seen of the engine appear to be unpainted metal, so I first covered the engine block in a black primer then applied some AK true metal iron color then polished it a bit. Maybe it’s just me, but I thought it looked too silver. 
3E40A88F-7792-4499-87E7-54BFE0CDD9B6.jpeg.ed5a8fbd53ac105f27de6df9b5d8ec42.jpeg

 

Next I applied some gun metal color and buffed it. It’s a shade or two darker. I think I like the gun metal for this piece. It’s going to get shaded and dirtied up a bit later so this will just serve as a base color for the block.

A92528CA-4807-4CCE-9B5D-28F3516ED9EA.jpeg.40d31de3fe34364418efcac46aa24330.jpeg0D8DFDD8-7B2B-4A21-9186-583C5052C7E3.thumb.jpeg.a2fa64d953dddc618eaff7526e969272.jpeg

Edited by CDW
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28 minutes ago, CDW said:

Couple of years ago, bought some tubes of AK True Metal wax paste in various metallic shades.

Yeah that's AK's answer to Rub n Buff... The engine in those was a cast Iron block with aluminum heads... and I believe they were painted... Hard shell black I believe and very very shiny...

 

I haven't done any research on it though, just remembering off the top of my head... Cast steel is too light and when fresh has a slight shine to it... Cast Iron is more a greyish black or real deep gray with no direct sheen... it sorta glows instead...

 

Yeah a black wash on what you've done would look good for an in-service used engine.....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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13 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Yeah that's AK's answer to Rub n Buff... The engine in those was a cast Iron block with aluminum heads... and I believe they were painted... Hard shell black I believe and very very shiny...

 

I haven't done any research on it though, just remembering off the top of my head... Cast steel is too light and when fresh has a slight shine to it... Cast Iron is more a greyish black or real deep gray with no direct sheen... it sorta glows instead...

 

Yeah a black wash on what you've done would look good for an in-service used engine.....

Cast metal block with black cylinder heads

 

 

33a1490e145246663144a7c6fc925fc72348010e.jpg

9933853-1936-rolls-royce-phantom-iii-std-c.jpg

9933874-1936-rolls-royce-phantom-iii-std.jpg

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1 hour ago, CDW said:

Cast metal block with black cylinder heads

 

Well my memory still works in my old age.... {chuckle}

 

I'm glad you got an in-service engine shot as well, usually they are all polished up like show cars.... and they seldom look that way in real life...

 

Look like you got it covered brother...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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I'm in, too, Craig. Interesting paint schemes.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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19 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I wonder how this Gunze/Revell kit compares with the Pocher/Protar/Italeri kits? 

It will be interesting to see your build.

 

Yves

The comparison is closer to Protar, although it’s my opinion the Gunze kits are a bit better molded while Protar gives multi media parts in their kits, Gunze does not. Gunze Kia are typical of Japanese models from the 70’s. Back then they were considered high quality. Poacher is in a league all their own, twice the size and orders of magnitude more parts.

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I didn't care for the AK True Metal paste I used on the engine block, so I decided to strip it off and go another route. I'll take this opportunity to show what I use to strip paint and the "chrome" off of molded plastic parts. It's a product many in the plastic modeling community are familiar with, called Super Clean. It come in gallon size plastic jugs, and I buy mine from the automotive section of Wal Mart. Seels for around $10 a gallon last time I bought some. It will last a long, long time, and can be used over and over again, just pour it back into the jug after use.

BC039C57-B389-4585-BDBB-D7C72360D72C.thumb.jpeg.3cc94639ac44511777d6d878c682afd3.jpeg

It stripped the wax off the engine block in just seconds, using a stiff brush to loosen the paste from cracks and crevices. Took it all the way down to my primer, which was Mr Color lacquer. Had I left it in the solution for an hour or so, it would have stripped the primer as well, down to bare plastic. If you use it to strip a model that's been painted a long time, like years, it may need overnight and a toothbrush the next day to loosen and remove the paint. it will not harm clear plastic such as canopies and windows, so that's a plus.

607F86C7-3ED4-4519-8EFD-092C8EA940CE.thumb.jpeg.5c2310547fa9ef4e1b66676423e1597e.jpeg
2F5AFCC4-0263-4D22-9727-38ABF12362BD.thumb.jpeg.c5ae79b539f72924ba03416e4a4293c3.jpeg

Next, I am using it to strip my chrome parts tree. What I really like about it, it also removes the clear paint that's underneath the chrome. The clear paint is part of the plastic plating process. Other methods such as brake fluid or bleach will also remove the chrome plating, but it won't remove the clear paint under the plating. Not to mention the fact that brake fluid is just a p-i-t-a to get rid of when you're done with it, AND it fogs/ruins clear plastic. I know, I know, I also used it back in the day but that was all we had back then except for spray-on oven cleaner, and that has all its own set of drawbacks. Stripping the chrome tree down to bare plastic usually takes a couple of hours, and sometimes a toothbrush to scrub the parts a bit to remove stubborn clear paint.

80E8F8CC-6BD9-4C21-AE4C-3BF146213932.thumb.jpeg.d4b27568c4121c1aca47ed94bffe85b8.jpeg

229C353E-D19F-46B4-81ED-F29D5B533C7D.thumb.jpeg.be6bc2a71fdf490871729a45f1ab72c2.jpeg

Just a word or two of caution: make sure to wear latex gloves and keep the Super Clean off your bare skin. Do not put your uncovered hands down into it. Keep it off/away from anything you don't want damaged in case you accidentally spill it. Lastly, use a container with a lid if you are using the product indoors. 

 

 

Edited by CDW
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2 hours ago, CDW said:

The yellowish tint on the parts tree is the clear paint under the chrome that has not been removed yet. In another hour or so, I will scrub the parts a bit with a toothbrush and rinse them off. They will be bare plastic then.

I've been using it for several years now, it's the only stuff I've found that removes that dielectric lacquer from the parts as well... Cleanup is a breeze and it's biodegradable... Brake fluid, Concentrated Bleach and oven cleaner are a thing of the past....

 

Best stuff available bar none....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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 Nice car, I'm in

Current builds;

 Henry Ramey Upcher 1:25

Providence whaleboat- 1:25     HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 

Completed:

HM Cutter Sherbourne- 1:64- finished    Triton cross section scratch- 1:60 - finished 

Non ship:  SBD-3 Dauntless 1:48 Hasegawa -FINISHED

 

 

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Looking at the three engine compartment photos, the 1st is somewhat different than the other 2. I think that possibly the first photo is of a different year model, maybe? The first photo seems more original as the other two photos appear to be maybe, restored? For sure the second two photos are of a cleaner engine compartment, but I think maybe the first one is more original. Any thoughts?

My kit does not have what looks in the first photo to be some type of coolant reservoir just behind the radiator and in front of the cylinder heads.

Been off on other tangents of late and haven't done a whole lot of work on the model. Will have some update photos, hopefully in the next few days. The age of this kit and the engineering of it bring back memories as I work on it. Reminiscent in some ways of the old JoHan classic car kits but a much larger, 1:16 scale. A little crude by today's standards. More attention required to prepping the parts before assembly as well as filling minor gaps and other little flaws here and there. This Rolls Royce has a very distinct and unusual chassis and suspension setup. You'll see it when I get there.🙂  

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The first pic look like it's taken of an everyday driver, the second and third pics look like a restored show car... the coolant expansion chamber on the left side radiator hose prevented overheating... This was the period where thermal efficiency was taking over ICE engineering... They learned that a pressurized coolant system virtually eliminated overheating....

 

I would say two different dates of manufacture.... It's the logical conclusion....

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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Good job.... Congratulations...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

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