USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[augie]

Nice comparison - Thanks for the preview pic's on Chuck upgrades next to the OEM castings.

 

By the Way, Augie, how many pages was the old Syren Log at, before the crash. With all the guessing on page numbers, its interesting that in the MSW2 Syren log, Augie had her to the rigging stage in 2 pages

So in roughly 6 months or around 180 days it hit 112 pages. Augies logs seem to be more build length related then anything else and with his 2 year plan, that would put it over 450 pages, but with no rigging.... Too many variables to estimate, but 100+ seems a given.

 

Personally I'm just glad I found the "view last unread" button so now I can remember where to restart. What a fabulous option, wish I'd found it earlier.

Keith-  I've always been afraid someone would ask that question     .  The old log was about 50 pages when it went down --- but in those days there were only 10 posts/page.

 

I don't really care about the # of pages although I know it annoys some people.  I post as many photos as I can without being silly.  With Syren it was about 135 photos.  Confed will be more as I've learned what folks might like to see. 

 

My logs are open to everyone and I welcome active participation.  Those who don't care for our 'family' environment can choose not to follow.  As Andy said earlier, all chances of this being a 'highbrow' log went out the window with the appearance of the first moose.  Of course I'm part of the problem as I tend to care as much about the folks on here as I do about reporting that I glued stick 'A' into slot 'B'.

 

More pics in a day or so.

[Børge]

Hi Augie

 

Those cannons looks sweet, a very nice upgrade compared to the suplied fitings.

Wish they could supply kits with better quality metal fittings.

But its probably to expensive

 

Børge

[lb0190]

Hi Augie

 

Those cannons looks sweet, a very nice upgrade compared to the suplied fitings.

Wish they could supply kits with better quality metal fittings.

But its probably to expensive

 

Børge

I also liked the brass cannons and would pay extra to include them in a kit. Maybe kit manufacturers could consider changing their business model to offer options. Standard kit includes white metal guns, option (1) for X dollars adds brass guns, etc. This may open another source of revenue to offer a list of various higher quality upgrades specific for the model being purchased. Edited September 7, 2013 by lb0190

[augie]

Yes Larry and Borge, it would be nice if upgrades were offered.  But kit manufacturers have so many kits it would be tough to cover them.  It really requires a personal touch and interest.

 

Not to diverge too far off course, in the airplane model world you can buy a set of plans and there are actually outfits that, for the more popular aircraft, will  laser cut the bulkheads, formers and parts that lend themselves to sheet cutting.  You then supply your own sheetwood and sticks/dowels, etc.  And there are other outfits that supply molded/cast parts and photoetch.  It's a GREAT way to build --- you are 'making' your own custom kit.  Expensive?  Yes, a little.

 

Perhaps one day that will be possible in the model ship world for those who choose not to get too involved in scratch building.  It's all in the economics and demand.

[augie]

Update time.

 

A series of laser cut 'fillers' is supplied.  Here are the bulkhead fillers which bolster the bulkhead former between the bulkheads:

 

 

If you look at the column on the left, these are 'extra' fillers that were supplied and labeled as mast fillers.  They are not in the practicum or depicted on the plans.  In discussing this with Ben (Trussben), I decided to install these at the appropriate locations.  I believe that they would be essential for a model that was to be fully rigged.

 

Additional fillers are supplied for the bow and stern:

 

 

Here, the bulkhead fillers (including the mast fillers) have been installed.  They were very accurately sized and needed only light sanding to remove laser burn:

 

 

Here's a closeup of the mast fillers which were installed at Fr 2, 7 and 13

 

 

Now for the stern and bow fillers:

 

 

 

Finally, just an overview:

 

 

There will be additional fillers added at the stern later on.  I don't believe the bow will require more.  The overall frame now is pretty stiff ---- and straight.  The bulkhead uprights are quite high and fragile.  I may brace these before continuing.

 

Next, we will be building three sub-gun deck platforms from basswood planks before we break out the sanding blocks for the ever popular hull fairing.

 

So far, so good

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[realworkingsailor]

From what I've read from anyone building the kit, adding the protective timbers has been well worth the effort.

 

Lookin' good.

 

Andy

[Trussben]

Looks exactly how it should be at this point.

 

Ben

[hamilton]

Hi Augie:

 

Chuck's after market figurehead and cannons look amazing! They will look even better on deck! Are you now leaning towards a fully rigged Confederacy? I suppose that regardless the mortices will add strength between the bulkheads in those places. This is a very exciting build!

hamilton

[texxn5]

That's an interesting amount of inboard fillers. I can see the need if fully rigged, but it seems a little like overkill for an Admiralty model, but I do like the concept. Looking good Augie, kinda like a ship.....

[lb0190]

She's looking good Augie. I believe your right about bracing the uprights. I must have busted mine at least eight times on the Niagara. I was lucky they would snap back in place for an easy repair.

[Chuck]

That looks good so far.  The fillers are there to stop the false keel from twisting and bending.  This is a very very long hull.  The hull should be straightened in a jig and then the fillers applied.  This will make it very rigid so you wont have to worry about any bending.  You dont want the hull to be banana shaped. 

 

Before moving ahead any further.  Check to see that it isnt twisted.  Look at it from the extreme stern and bow.   You can place braces on your jig to straighten the stem or stern if they are twisting one way or the other.   Make the hull true and straight before placing those port frames in position.

 

Chuck

[gjdale]

Looking good Augie,

 

And I have to applaud your approach to the log and the 'family' atmosphere. No Moose were harmed in the making of this post!

[Jim Lad]

Looking really good so far Augie.  How are you going to protect those antlers (sorry, uprights) from potential damage?

 

John

[augie]

Hamilton-  no, she will be strictly the Admiralty version.  I have no room for her fully rigged.  Maybe the next one  

 

John -  I was never a big fan of minimal engineering.  She's not destined to fly so weight is no object.

 

Chuck - thanks for stopping by.  The BF was arrow straight to begin with and the fillers were applied while she was firmly clamped straight.  At the moment she looks to be straight from stern, bow and overhead. 

 

John - I will probably use the method Chuck suggested in the practicum.....temporary 3/16" braces running from port to starboard at the tops of the 'antlers'.  However, Bob (Rafine) has just planted an idea in my mind that he's going to use on his Essex.  Will let you know.

[popeye the sailor]

the hull frame looks verry nice Augie.   those fillers....did you install them during the frame assembly?   they would work very well in keeping the ribs square.   very nicely done

[augie]

No Popeye.  The bulkheads were fit, squared up and glued, then the fillers put in.  Your idea sounds logical......except if you set in one bulkhead and filler and it were to be a little 'off', I think the error would compound as you move along. 

[DCIronfist]

Off to a great start....looking forward to this one coming together ( and all the great commentary) :)

[patrickmil]

It's great to see some progress Augie. Those filler pieces are a great addition to add some strength. The more I see these Confederacy build logs, the more I want to build a Confederacy too.

[lb0190]

It's great to see some progress Augie. Those filler pieces are a great addition to add some strength. The more I see these Confederacy build logs, the more I want to build a Confederacy too.

I'm starting to feel the same way. I may just have to move the Von Wappen down the priority list one notch.

[texxn5]

I agree on the minimal engineering, I guess I just find it interesting that MS has included the laser cut pieces on a ship without rigging.  I can certainly understand for a fully rigged ship.  Seems like the additional reinforcements are usually left up to us to provide.  I like Chuck's explanation in that we certainly wouldn't want a banana shaped hull.

[rafine]

I'm late to the party as usual. The hull framing is looking very good.

 

Bob

[mtaylor]

NIce going, Augie.  So those antlers are moose antlers?

[Jim Lad]

Well, they must be moose antlers, Mark - wombats don't have antlers.

 

John

[texxn5]

Hi guys, just wondering if there is a free way to do this. Adobe Pro XI best price I find is $120.00.

[augie]

And now back to our regular programming 

 

She has 3 platforms to construct which represent the lower (sub-gun deck) deck.  They will be barely visible through some hatch openings.

 

Here is the completed first platform.  It is made of 23 planks of basswood, stained with a natural finish and given a coat of WOP.  The edges of the planks have simulated caulking using a #2 pencil on one edge only (I don't like the caulking too heavy).  I chose not to simulate the treenails on these lower decks.

 

 

Chuck states in the practicum that the lower decks were generally lighter in color then the main deck.  I intend to maintain that concept but we'll need to wait a while to see that effect (like about a year). 

 

The planks for the remaining 2 platforms have been cut and will go in very shortly.

[Chuck]

The lower decks arent really lighter.  What I meant was that the decks in general were lighter than the hull planking and some prefer to make them that way.  No distinction in the color between decks.   But,  mainly I wanted to suggest painting the sides of each bulkhead black opposite each other so they are more difficult to see when looking down the hatches.  Otherwise they may be more noticeable. Nice work so far.

 

Chuck 

[lb0190]

She's looking good Augie and no animal footprints anywhere!

Your choice of one edge only for caulking simulation worked out well.

[lb0190]

Augie,

 

What are the steps and sequence you use for deck planks? If the steps below are accurate, would you mind listing them in the sequence you prefer.

 

 

Cut plank to length

Sand as needed

Trial fit

Pencil edge

Stain

WOP

Glue in place

 

 

THANKS!

[Trussben]

Doing that planking takes me back a bit, seems forever ago! Only a year though.

 

Ben

[augie]

OK on cut, sand, trial , pencil.  But then I glue them on and sand lightly again.  I'm using PVA here so I'm not worried about CA getting all over. Then I pre-stain...........this is basswood and it minimizes blotches.  Finally WOP.

 

I use the same sequence on deck.

 

Hull planking is different.  There I use a thick CA which does not make a mess or penetrate the wood and then go right into sanding and finishing.