Jump to content

Loarre Castle (Spain) by King Derelict - Aedes Ars 1/200


Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, king derelict said:

The railroad and scenery guys like @Jack12477 and @Canute may know if you can still get the stuff or have a better idea

Yes, you can use Hydrocal to create the mounds. When you get closer to that we can help walk you thru it.  There's a couple ways to do it, Paper towels, nylon window screen,  plaster cloth, etc. ScaleHobbyist is my go-to supplier.  

 

Before you get too far along, make a tracing of that hill outline shown on that wall former M15. Save it for later. You might also want to start looking at Woodland Scenics rock molds for cliff faces, et al. Looking at the box art I would suggest using them for some of the rock outcroppings.  They work well with the Hydrocal.  

 

Also check out @hollowneck HMS Sphinx  build log, starting at post #400, on his use of Woodland Scenics' ShaperSheet to create an ocean. That same technique and material can be used to create scenery around your castle.  

Edited by Jack12477
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, king derelict said:

I'm thinking that plaster bandage over foam may be a good way to set the basic shapes of the hills and cliffs. The railroad and scenery guys like @Jack12477 and @Canute may know if you can still get the stuff or have a better idea

Oh yeah it's available, model railroaders go to when all else fails... Hundreds of places to get it and hundreds of ways to build hills and mountains with it... I still have several rolls in my railroading stash along with the rockface molds and woodland scenic's vegetation and ground covers... 

 

I agree with jack on tracing the outline of where the slopes should be both horizontally and vertically the reason for this is you want to build it apart from the castle itself... Build it in sections and add them to the model as you go... Makes it a lot more manageable, and you can refine or adjust the technique as you go... 

 

Made many mountains in my day, it's a fun type of modeling.... 

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, king derelict said:

 

The blocks are somewhat irregular and the guide recommends squaring up each block. Given that there are 8600 blocks and I have a limited ability to true up anything I use them as is. I find that selecting adjacent blocks and rotating them to get the best fit gives a good result generally.

Hi Alan that process sounds like the age old skills used in “Dry-stone” walling that the Yorkshire Dales are renowned for. This is a really interesting project, I had no idea that these were out there to build. You will a Master Stone Mason by the time you get to block 8599! 🤣

Andrew
Current builds:- HM Gun-brig Sparkler - Vanguard (1/64) 
HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64)

Completed (Kits):-

Vanguard Models (1/64) :HM Cutter Trial , Nisha - Brixham trawler

Caldercraft (1/64) :- HMS Orestes(Mars)HM Cutter Sherbourne

Paper Shipwright (1/250) :- TSS Earnslaw, Puffer Starlight

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

I have a limited ability to true up anything

Build yourself a mini shooting board.

 

Lowes has dimensioned poplar boards 1/4 x 3 or 1/4 x 4 or 1/4 x 5 in 2 ft and 3 ft lengths, cut one to 6-8 inches length for the base; pick up some 1/4 inch square and/or 3/8 inch square "dowels" to use as stops and guides. It doesn't have to be very big, just enough to square your blocks with a file or sanding sticks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use thin foam pieces, not the strofowm boards with the big white beads, but the sheets used for insulation in some places. Your local big box store may have pieces of broken boards. Rough shape one/two sids and but up against your base in layers, like a cake. Cover with plaster gauze or Sculptamold to cover the ends, Sand to final shape, the paint your ground cover shade. Apply your shrubs and trees. Et voils! Castle Loarre and hilltop site. 😄

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/14/2023 at 8:14 PM, Jack12477 said:

Yes, you can use Hydrocal to create the mounds. When you get closer to that we can help walk you thru it.  There's a couple ways to do it, Paper towels, nylon window screen,  plaster cloth, etc. ScaleHobbyist is my go-to supplier.  

 

Before you get too far along, make a tracing of that hill outline shown on that wall former M15. Save it for later. You might also want to start looking at Woodland Scenics rock molds for cliff faces, et al. Looking at the box art I would suggest using them for some of the rock outcroppings.  They work well with the Hydrocal.  

 

Also check out @hollowneck HMS Sphinx  build log, starting at post #400, on his use of Woodland Scenics' ShaperSheet to create an ocean. That same technique and material can be used to create scenery around your castle.  

Thank you very much Jack. That is really very helpful. The landscaping is going to be an entirely new project once the walls are built. The kit instructions or guide are very basic but that sort of adds to the interest. I'm glad I mounted the kit onto thick plywood. Its going to be very heavy when complete.

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2023 at 3:49 AM, Egilman said:

Oh yeah it's available, model railroaders go to when all else fails... Hundreds of places to get it and hundreds of ways to build hills and mountains with it... I still have several rolls in my railroading stash along with the rockface molds and woodland scenic's vegetation and ground covers... 

 

I agree with jack on tracing the outline of where the slopes should be both horizontally and vertically the reason for this is you want to build it apart from the castle itself... Build it in sections and add them to the model as you go... Makes it a lot more manageable, and you can refine or adjust the technique as you go... 

 

Made many mountains in my day, it's a fun type of modeling.... 

Thank you very much EG. Thats ll good stuff. I hadn't thought of building up the landscape off the base but that may be the best idea. Its all going to get quite crowded between the inner and outer walls and trying to build the hill up between them may be difficult. I think I may need to build at least the basic shape before placing the higher buildings which get built off the base also. Its going to get interesting when I get to that point. It is also probably going to be the most fun bit of the project.

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2023 at 8:14 AM, AJohnson said:

Hi Alan that process sounds like the age old skills used in “Dry-stone” walling that the Yorkshire Dales are renowned for. This is a really interesting project, I had no idea that these were out there to build. You will a Master Stone Mason by the time you get to block 8599! 🤣

The Aedes Ars kits are a whole different aspect of the hobby. The catalogue has some fascinating things to build. There are far more complex things than Castillo Loarre too

Construction kit for the reproduction of the Almansa Castle (aedesars.com)

 

I love the limestone landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales. I did a lot of caving up there years go and hiked up the hillsides along and over the drystone walls. My favourite part of the country in many ways. The village pubs after a long caving trip were another great attraction. Especially in winter.

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2023 at 8:51 AM, Jack12477 said:

Build yourself a mini shooting board.

 

Lowes has dimensioned poplar boards 1/4 x 3 or 1/4 x 4 or 1/4 x 5 in 2 ft and 3 ft lengths, cut one to 6-8 inches length for the base; pick up some 1/4 inch square and/or 3/8 inch square "dowels" to use as stops and guides. It doesn't have to be very big, just enough to square your blocks with a file or sanding sticks.

ack

That is a great idea. Thank you very much. Your comment jogged my memory. I bought this from Micro=Mark (I think) for wooden boat building) and never used it

441163487_RIMG1760(1280x960).jpg.4bca515ab6288c8758e3a8f73a0915ae.jpg

It works quite well, especially for squaring the ends. The blocks are so small that after doing a number of them I end up with sore fingers from holding them against the fence. Its worth doing; it really speeds up the construction of the walls because there is no need to custom fit each block and the gaps are tighter too. I may do better trying to make a custom board though that would make the blocks easier to hold while sanding

Thanks again - that's a big help

Alan

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2023 at 10:51 AM, Waitoa said:

Hope there is room for one more watcher, my village has been on hold while I do jobs for the Admiral but hopefully those are coming an end.

 

Waitoa

Hi Waitoa. There is definitely room; you are most welcome, Your village is a wonderful creation so I hope I don't embarrass myself in front of you

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2023 at 12:18 PM, Canute said:

You can use thin foam pieces, not the strofowm boards with the big white beads, but the sheets used for insulation in some places. Your local big box store may have pieces of broken boards. Rough shape one/two sids and but up against your base in layers, like a cake. Cover with plaster gauze or Sculptamold to cover the ends, Sand to final shape, the paint your ground cover shade. Apply your shrubs and trees. Et voils! Castle Loarre and hilltop site. 😄

Thank you very much Ken

I have some squares of the closed cell insulation board material which I have used for seascape bases. That may be a very good way to build up the basic shapes and contours of the hill. The kit would have you make several pillars out of card for the upper parts of the castle to rest on. Its going to be heavy so I am not so convinced that is a good idea so I'm thinking I might use layers of the foam boards depending on how the heights work out. That would also allow me to carve the landscape right to the walls. Thats going to be a very interesting part of the build - many blocks away.

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A long old day of real life at the eye clinic yesterday so no progress until today. I managed to spend some time on the Castillo today and finished one side of the first bit of the outer walls.

1636600034_RIMG1761(1280x960).jpg.352e13a48821fe39cc53a5ee3fa4c108.jpg

I'm trying not to look at the higher right hand section yet.

929908494_RIMG1762(1280x960).jpg.1c4220e5c5a86e345dd2b2761c759552.jpg

Thanks to @Jack12477 the construction went a lot faster along the straight sections. The curved towers are still a slow file and fit work

Thanks for looking in and all the support and comments

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats  a good start  Alan   -  those blocks  make all  the  difference  creating a  genine  look,   so  loving  this  build.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, king derelict said:

The blocks are so small that after doing a number of them I end up with sore fingers from holding them against the fence. Its worth doing; it really speeds up the construction of the walls because there is no need to custom fit each block and the gaps are tighter too. I may do better trying to make a custom board though that would make the blocks easier to hold while sanding

Make some featherboards. You could probably fashion them from popsicle sticks or 1/4 inch sq dowels cut with 45 degree at one end. See examples of my crude boards for my Dremel drill press stand in photos below.

 

IMG_2023-01-17-20-05-11-222.thumb.jpg.ebd7c43de3006e91ae9bbd3ebdb7dac1.jpgIMG_2023-01-17-20-00-04-134.thumb.jpg.10d8c3afd88a883fe5394e9640a41906.jpg 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, king derelict said:

Hi Waitoa. There is definitely room; you are most welcome, Your village is a wonderful creation so I hope I don't embarrass myself in front of you

Alan

No way you could do that, as long as you are enjoying it and building it the way you see it in your eye’s mind that I think is all that matters

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thats  a good start  Alan   -  those blocks  make all  the  difference  creating a  genine  look,   so  loving  this  build.

 

OC.

Thank you OC. The look of stone really does make the model. I'm thinking about giving it a thin grey wash when its complete> I think the warm tone is a bit too Mediterranean. Lots of ideas for later on😎

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

Make some featherboards.

Jack, that is a great idea (again). I ended up gluing a couple of strips of ply together to make a combined holder / pusher for the blocks seen just below the fence. The ergonomically shaped section further back means I can square several blocks without developing a groove in my thumb.

926640125_RIMG1764(1280x960).jpg.4ec12e870b89dc722d1497e57bf7e2e4.jpg

Many Thanks = that really helps me move the model forward

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the board to square and shape the blocks I'm picking up some efficiency (Thanks Jack) and moving foreard. In the short time available today I reached the top of the wall in the next section and nearly finished the first round tower. 

So as i work along the walls I'm starting to think about adding lights to the model. The outer wall has no windows so it isn't too late to decide/ There will be plenty of room below the main castle to install wires and the hill at the rear could accommodate a battery box. I have never lit a model so this would all be new to me.

418908479_RIMG1765(1280x960).jpg.54406ea04f6f418ad0f5c448c518795d.jpg

The dust is starting to accumulate. I find the soft brush indispensable for sweeping off the tiers of blocks after they have been sanded to remove steps. The stiff brush is used to clean the sandpaper and files which clog very quickly.

Many Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments

Alan

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, CDW said:

Ooohhhh...this looks like fun! Happy to follow you with this build.

Thanks Craig. Yes it definitely is fun watching it grow. Its something very different from the usual run of models. It is very messy - the dust goes everywhere. No-one will complain about sanding a wooden hull after making one of these. For that reason I'm working in the garage at least until the weather gets hot again

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Canute said:

Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light.

Thank you Ken, I've read you can get flickering ones too. I need to sort out the basics of how to wire them up snd them how the main castle will build up to determine how many are needed inside the cardboard formers

Alan

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Canute said:

Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light.

At one time, they made LED's that would flicker randomly.   I don't know if they still do.

 

Oops... we cross posted. I'm glad they still make those.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pushing long down the long section of wall. The first round tower is complete and I started sanding down the square tower.

1180496749_RIMG1768(1280x960).jpg.5ddb41706bc2f51333307beeed8a61cb.jpg

906405357_RIMG1770(1280x960).jpg.226552cc02f23c3f5a80eb361ea167e1.jpg

The little trays are very handy for keeping the squared blocks of different sizes and the angled blocks. Many thanks to my cats for liking that particular brand of cat treat and keeping me well supplied with the containers

I think I will be breaking off at intervals to work on some small projects to recharge the enthusiasm. So following the conversation about Verlinden being no longer in production I thought I needed to get some while I can

820487809_RIMG1767(1280x960).jpg.ff2658c9059eb5233a69b6d114960e2b.jpg

I am taking the 2023 Moratorium on New Kits more as a suggestion than a hard rule. The 2023 Moratorium on new book only lasted 5 days. Oh well

Thanks for all the support, likes and comments

Alan

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats  some  great progress  Alan  -  taking shape  more and more  each day,   and  those  Verlinden  goodies   -   will  look forward  to you building  those.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thats  some  great progress  Alan  -  taking shape  more and more  each day,   and  those  Verlinden  goodies   -   will  look forward  to you building  those.

 

OC.

Thank you very much OC.  I think I need an assistant to square and angle the blocks and then we would really see some progress - but that would feel like cheating.

I want to try that glazing technique that @Jack12477 referenced recently on one of the figures . That looked very effective.

But first the walls have to rise a little further. I'm conscious EG is out there with his howitzer😎

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found another  interesting  link  for   you  -  think they  do  tours  there?

Also   found  some figures  they  are  1/150  scale  but that  is  kind of close  to 1/200  - 

 

OC.

 

https://castletourist.com/castillo-de-loarre/

https://www.pendraken.co.uk/mid-european-557-c.asp

Edited by Old Collingwood

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...