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HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale


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Looks really nice B.E. that's quite a bend but you've got a nice run. 

 

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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I have that same mouse but no way would I have trusted myself to use it to fair Winchelsea, good for you making it work.  I did mine all by hand, it took a week. Your Indy is well on its way, nice!

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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I’m with Glenn! I’m currently fairing the hull of my Winnie. About 2/3 done…all by hand. I have a Mouse too but have left it in the tool drawer. I’ve used it to sand fiberglass hulls on RC boats but don’t trust myself on this type of build. Way too easy for me to become over zealous. B.E. you are an example of self control. We’ll done.

Jim 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea, Model Shipways Mayflower 

Completed Builds: NRG Half Hull Project  

                                   Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Longboat

                                   Dumas 1954 Chris Craft 36' Commander

                                   Dumas 1940 Chris Craft 19' Barrel Back

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My thoughtful and generous wife bought me a Dremel tool many years ago for a holiday gift. It took up valuable space on my bench for awhile until I found a use for it grinding off some rust on an old cast iron outdoor lighting fixture; I keep it around for the odd grinding job (in a heavy tool drawer) but haven’t used it for modeling. 

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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Post Thirteen- completing the fairing

Having applied the test planks at all levels along the hull, paying specific attention to the bow and stern areas I have reached the point where enough is enough.

Or perhaps not quite.

The next stage is to apply the patterns (248/251) around the  bow. They are formed around the extension pieces of bulkheads 1 -5, which have a subtle convex shape to them that the pattern should follow.

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To this end I did find it necessary to soak the patterns to achieve a good conformity.

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I did do a little more fairing in this area to further fay the longitudinal gunport strips into the extension shapes.

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These bulkhead extensions are eventually removed, but the subtle shape remains.

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The patterns are now re-clamped into position.

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A milestone of sorts is now reached with the fixing of the first plank.

The lower plank runs beneath the bow pattern and level with the lower gunport frame.

The lime bends well and with the plank clamped into place, it gets the heat treatment to produce the bow curve.

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The aft section of this strake has a slight lateral upward curve  from bulkhead  12 to the stern, which again was induced using heat after pinning to the hull.

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These photos also show the second plank fitted which runs level with the upper gunport frame.

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The section between the two planks are now filled, but I found that an additional 6mm strip doesn’t quite fill the space leaving a gap of around 2mm.

I suppose the intention is to fill this with off-cut slivers but I think I have some wider stuff lying around so I’ll dig it out and spile it to fit the space.

 

 

B.E.

27/03/23

 

 

 

 

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lots of little milesstones

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Cheers, Guys.

 

Post Fourteen

Before I fitted the central strake of three I used a micro saw to remove the gunport sections of the upper strake.

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I used a length of 8mm x 1.5mm limewood strip to fill in the central gap, a little tapering towards the bow and stern and the fit is good.

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I glued the plank to the frames and along the edges of the adjacent planks.

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The gunports were the fully opened-up before re-fitting and gluing the pear patterns into place.

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The blurb indicates areas where glue should not be applied, relating to the extensions to the bulkheads which will later be removed.

I added double sided tape to these areas to temporarily secure the patterns in the upper areas.

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Speed gluing and clamping is the name of the game.

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In this shot she looks more 64 than 44, what a lovely chunky beast.

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Fitting the patterns concludes this section of the build.

 

B.E.

30/03/23

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It is a chunky thing. I guess that’s what a razee looks like. Seems it would be heavy at the stern, but it worked. Good looking infrastructure. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Hi B.E.

Wonderful work as always. Except for size and cost...(gulp)...I'd take this on with your build as a reference just as your Pegasus still is. I look forward to your Indefatigable updates.

 

Cheers

A

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - HMS Fly by aliluke - Victory Models - 1/64

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34180-hms-fly-by-aliluke-victory-models-164/

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

 

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

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Thank you Gus, Glenn, and  Alistair, your interest is much appreciated, as is those who have 'liked' the posts.

 

Post Fifteen

Fresh supplies from the timberyard.

My supply of Boxwood has arrived from Hobbymill, Estonia.

 

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The strips relate to decking and hull planking down to the wale.

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The quality looks very good with the strip wood accurately cut to size – thank you Vahur.

 

I do note that Chris is now offering an ‘Indy’ Boxwood deck planking version for an extra £150 over the basic, which makes it a competitive option, altho’ some wider sheet stuff would be necessary to cut margin planks, unless that is also included.

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I did ask Vahur to send me a few samples of his coloured Hornbeam. I was curious to see if it could be used to represent the ochre stripe in the area of the gunports.

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The colour doesn’t suit my eye, too yellow, and the wrong shade, so I won’t pursue that option.

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The lower strip of black Hornbeam has more potential for use as wale timbers, altho' I have not tested it for cut in top and butt planking.

 

B.E.

31/03/2023

 

 

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its all going to look very nice

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Post Sixteen

 

A workshop enhancement

I have been feeling cramped of late as I try to manoeuvre the ‘Indy’ beast around, with only 600mm of depth available.

My latest acquisition is this work stand.

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Bott work stand.

 

It is in the same range as my work bench and equal in terms of depth and (adj) height but being portable I can re-position it to give me either more length or depth to suit.

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In a straight line I now have seven foot+ length to play with.

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This ‘L’ shaped configuration is likely to prove even more useful. It allows me to walk around the model and provides more space for turning.

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I am hoping it will remove the frustration of working in a space a tad too small to freely manoeuvre the hull without risking bashing it on the wall.

 

A small price to pay for the added convenience.

 

 

B.E

01/04/2023

 

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Post Seventeen

 

Hull planking.

On my builds I have always tried to follow the procedure I will use for the show finish. Perhaps with a little less adherence to a full tick strip method, but still utilising tapering, edge bending, and spiling as a method to achieve a reasonable planking job.

This gives me an insight into how the timbers will flow when I get down to the ‘proper’ job using show timbers.

The planking will be done with the hull inverted, this gives me better control.

 

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I opted to plank a first section down to the lower deck level which involves five strakes.

I used tape to indicate the line at the bow.

 

Starting at the Bow and using a tick strip I have calculated that very little taper is required – less than 1mm starting at Bulkhead four.

 

Joining all planks at the central bulkhead is a practical approach, but the look of it offends my eye even tho’ this is only the first layer. We all have our foibles, I guess.

 

I work side and side about, strake by strake.

I opted to fit a long forward plank, and a shorter aft plank cut from a longer strip to facilitate the bending.

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The aft plank is soaked, and the bend at the aft end is formed by heat.

 

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The bends up to the lower transom are fairly easy to form if sufficient soaking time is allowed.

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Once formed I temporarily pin them in place and heat blast them.

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At the bow end the lower two strakes required a little edge bending around bulkheads two and four to achieve the fit.

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Still in very much a rough state which the sanding should take care of.

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I like to check the planking run with the hull the right way up, looking ok so far I think.

 

B.E.

05/04/2023

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Joining all planks at the central bulkhead is a practical approach, but the look of it offends my eye even tho’ this is only the first layer. We all have our foibles, I guess.

Not just you BE!  Looking good.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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that looks fantastic

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Your work looks super B.E.👍

You might consider temporarily adding the garboard strake and then recheck the marks for the ends/widths of the planks.  The main thing about the garboard is to be sure it does not run past the boxing joint of the keel and stem which looks to be between the second and third forward most bulkheads.

Allan

 

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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22 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Joining all planks at the central bulkhead is a practical approach, but the look of it offends my eye

Not only does it offend the eye I’m not sure how practical it is. Much more practical to me is like you’re doing, shifting the joints of the planks. Not only is it a practice run for the second planking it makes for a sound hull, as well as showing the true run of the planks.
 

Nice work!

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Thank you, Guys,

 

@ Jason and Glenn – I’m glad I’m not alone, I can’t see any reason not to apply even a rudimentary stagger to the butt joints; as you say Glenn it’s all part of a useful practice run for the second planking.

 

@ Allan – I’ve already had the Garboard in place to mark the gap at the central point.

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I am using a 10mm wide board, but I need to temporarily fit the keel and stem pieces to properly work out the shape and termination.

This will be my next job.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

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Post Eighteen

 

Planking continues – Garboard strake

This is the point where I need to fit the Garboard plank to determine the planking requirements for the remaining area.

Garboards can be tricky planks to fit in terms of shape and where to end, and they always cause me some head scratching.

 

Some may think why bother, this is only the first planking that is to be covered, and perhaps even covered again by coppering.

For me it’s about keeping options open.

 

If the second planking is good enough not to be covered, then fitting a garboard on the first planking run will give a valuable insight for shape and position on the second show planking.

It does mean that extra planking widths will be required.

 

I am using a 10mm wide board, but I need to temporarily fit the keel and stem pieces to properly work out the shape and termination point at the bow.

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A real pleasure to get the keel elements in place even if only for a while. Beautifully cut, a perfect fit, and great to have a quality wood finish for the parts rather than mdf.

 

Perversely my next move is to cut an mdf stem piece against which to form the Garboard. I can’t risk the proper stem during the working process.

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Time to fire up the scroll saw.

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I don’t see any reason not to leave the keel pieces in situ at this stage, as the Garboard is the only plank that abuts, and it will assist the fitting.

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 A lot of time is spent tweaking the plank to gauge the right position. I’m never fully confident that I’ve got it right, but whatever the outcome doing it on the first layer will show the way for the second planking.

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I take the pre-caution of taping the keel, in part to avoid the planks getting glued to the keel at this point.

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I can now begin the next phase of planking.

 

B.E.

07/04/2023

 

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great progress, and looks fantastic

 

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Thank you B.E. for giving us all the opportunity to have this insight into your thinking as you plan your way forward in this build.  As a relative newcomer - I'm only on my second build - I find your explanations and reasoning behind your decisions as helpful as the building techniques themselves.  It must be very time-consuming to write a build log lke yours, but thank you for doing so because you are helping many of us to become better, and more satisfied, ship modellers as a result.

 

Nipper

Current build:  HMS Sphinx 1775 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

Completed build:  HM Cutter Alert 1777 - 1/64 - Vanguard Models

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