Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 105 – Planking and Wales continued

 

The exterior planking is now finished – except for treenails.  The next phase of work will involve a lot of disparate tasks to prepare for the work on the main deck.  There is much to be done before that can start.

 

In the last post, I showed the cabin lights being drilled through the outside planking.  The first picture shows the inboard planking on the cabin deck with the holes and two temporary brass ports fitted for size.

 

 

The cabin deck will house 19 cabins, two WC’s and an open central area – plus a staircase from the main deck.  All of this is speculative but very typical of the class.  Cabin finishes were usually quite ornate – no holds barred on fancy woods, gilt, carvings, etc.  I don’t intend to go overboard on this, especially without any historical data, but I expect to panel the partitions, fit built in bedsteads and some cabinetwork.  This will come later but I wanted to make a choice on wood.  I am assuming mahogany and intend to represent it with black walnut as shown above.  It has the look of old Cuban mahogany – to me at least.  except for the above, this will all come later.

 

While the model was upright, the waterways were made and fitted.  In the next picture a forward segment has been boiled for bending and is drying.  These will be pre-fitted with scarphs, but cannot be installed until the bulwark interiors are painted.

 

 

The next picture shows the starboard forward section after drying – just prior to making its joint with the next segment.

 

 

The painting order is dictating events at this stage.  First the outboard planking above the planksheer will be painted black, The white main rail will then be installed, allowing the inboard bulwarks to be painted white.  The blue waterways can then be installed and work can proceed on the main deck – a lot of complications to avoid painting different colors on adjacent areas after assembly.

 

The next picture shows work that is necessary before painting the waist planking.

 

 

The eagle and the vinery on either side are made with epoxy sculpting material.  (I could never manage this in wood.) When cured, the material is very hard, but brittle - so the work is done in two steps.  In the first step the rough sculpting shown above was done on a curved form so the parts could be removed and fit on to the stern without bending. The next picture shows the carving work glued to the starboard side. 

 

 

Once glued down the carvings could then be further refined with small tools as shown below.

 

 

This work mostly involved thinning the greenery to be more delicate.  All of this relief carving will be gilded.

 

The next picture shows the finished planking on the port side.

 

 

The planking to be painted first is above the lower channels.  At this stage those areas are being sealed for final sanding.  Masking tape will keep the paint confined above the planksheer for now.  The stern carvings have been primed with black to make sure the black acrylic adheres to the epoxy.

 

In the last picture the main rail around the stern has been painted as a test and is being fitted into its slot – just temporarily until the surrounding black is painted.

 

 

So – a lot of niggling little tasks to break up the monotony of treenailing – but progress nonetheless.

  

Ed

[SawdustDave]

EdT....

You really are beginning to present a unique challenge to the rest of us mortals. Although I can't speak for the rest of our MSW friends, I think we all have the same problem of trying to find appropriate words to express our appreciation for your amazing skills.

Words like "WOW!" and "OMG!" just don't do the job.

Just now looking at your carvings, my personal response was "You've got to be SHITTIN' me!"

But, I could never write something that crude in this public forum of gentlemen and refined ladies.

So I'll just continue with.... WOW!

[GLakie]

Just beautiful work Ed!  Interesting to see the use of sculpting epoxy.  I've heard of sculpting putty,but not epoxy.  Didn't even know that stuff existed. Nice!

 

Cheers 

[SJSoane]

 

Ed, I am also intrigued by your sculpting epoxy. What is the brand?

 

Beautiful, inspiring work.

 

Mark

[druxey]

Very nice solution to the stern carved works, Ed. They look terrific.

[dvm27]

Love the way it's coming together, Ed. This would be a great model to complement the real Cutty Sark.

[PeterK]

Hi Ed,

I second everything that has been stated above.

But I am sorry to be a bother again: If you write "you boil the planks" do you realy boil them? Or do you just soak them in hot water? Do you have a time limit for how log you boil or soak?

Again - it is always a pleasure to read your post.

Peter

Edited January 17, 2015 by PeterK

[gjdale]

I'm stickin' with WOW!!! and OMG!!! Just beautiful Ed. I too am intrigued by this sculpting epoxy......

[jaerschen]

I can only endorse speeches that have just been made, outstanding craftsmanship.

[EdT]

Thank you all very much.

 

I had my doubts about using the sculpting material on the vinery, but could think of no other solution that I had any comfort with.  As it is I believe they could be finer, but who knows what the original looked like.  From one of the photos, it certainly appears that the eagle had some depth to it.  The material is hard when cured but fairly brittle in these small fine pieces.  The product is Magic-Sculpt.  It is a two part epoxy putty made for sculpting.  It hardens gradually over about 24 hours and is workable in different ways at varying hardness stages.  It adheres fairly well to itself, but at times I have had to use CA for some parts.  I started using this 15 or 20 years ago to make original patterns for casting 1:60 military miniatures and also for some larger 54mm scuplted figures.  It is a very versatile sculpting material, but takes some time to learn how to use it well.  I use the natural colored material.  I tried the white and it works completely differently.  I also tried several other similar products.  It has a long shelf life.  I think its a great product.

 

For bending, I actually immerse the wood in boiling water until it is sufficiently pliable.  I have tried other methods but keep coming back to this.  When completely dry the pieces stay bent and can be sanded to their normal finish.  I have found that being able to bend a shape is more a question of when rather than if.  The two maple strips below were bent to these shapes after I found the straight strips in the bottom of my pot.  They were probably in there for a week through several boiling cycles.  The u shaped rail around the stern (6" = .08" square maple) shown in the last post was probably boiled for 45-60 minutes.

 

[michael mott]

 

The two maple strips below were bent to these shapes after I found the straight strips in the bottom of my pot.  They were probably in there for a week through several boiling cycles.

Ed that is a very interesting picture, and those strips are obviously bent to a very tight curve, I shall have to try this. I wonder if the length of time had anything to do with the very tight curve or was it just a coincidence, I shall have to do a couple of tests. The epoxy decorations looks exquisite. Looks like a fairly complex bit of gilding coming up. I suppose that using some liquid frisket or masking will be helpful when doing that.

 

Michael

[EdT]

Micheal,

 

I don't know at what point in time they became that flexible but  similar pieces boiled for about an hour were nowhere near that pliable.  I can only assume that the wood fibers were completely saturated due to the long time submerged.

 

I am planning to use an acrylic gold paint.  It does not yellow with time as other solvent based binders.  I expect to do this by hand with a 00 brush with some parts dry-brushed to show the relief.  I have started doing some testing for that.  The figures at the bow may be more interesting.  They were completely different on each side and painted in natural life-like colors - according to Crothers.

 

Ed 

[jo conrad]

Hello Ed,

 

there are some tips by  billq1947 in the "wooden tips and tricks"-departement here in MSW. He suggests the use of 10% hydrogen peroxide for bending strips.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1515-best-way-to-bend-strips-laterally/?hl=%20hydrogen%20%20peroxide.

 

Whenever I turn my pc on, I visit THE SHIP, sometimes even trice/day. Your craftmanship matches the beauty of her lines perfectly; it´s a delight to watch her grow under your hands.

My respect.

Germanus

Edited January 18, 2015 by jo conrad

[GMO2]

This is one of the most interesting projects I have ever seen. I have become like some kid back in the fifties awaiting the next episode of one of those adventure series on the TV sponsored by Ovaltine or some such.

[Mirabell61]

Hi Ed,

 

Great Stern decoration !

 

I like the use of your sculpting epoxy and would gladly like to hear a Little more about your way to do it.

have you used an positive shaped casting, pressed metal sheet, or sample of any other material for creating a negative form first ? into which you press the sculpturing epoxy for curing ?

 

Nils

Edited January 18, 2015 by Mirabell61

[EdT]

Nils, thank you for your comment and your questions.  I will try to answer your  questions but you will probably have to wait for the book for a usable tutorial.  I have more work to do on this process before I can describe it in a way that others can follow - or recommend it.  I will definitely be doing that for the book.  I have a lot of history with this material and do some things intuitively.  I need to translate all that into words so anyone trying to use the process will not be frustrated - especially if I provide a much better - or different -  description later.

 

However, in response to your questions:  No forms were used.  There are no identical parts in the decoration - mirrored yes, but no two the same.  At a point in the curing cycle, the putty can be rolled into thin strings.  The strings were laid to the shapes of the vines on a developed "true view" print of the decoration on a form shaped like the hull and covered with waxed paper.  Small bits of new putty were added for leaves, etc.  The vines at this stage were still very delicate.  As they hardened they could be adjusted in shape.  When completely cured they carefully were removed from the form and glued to the stern with CA.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Ed

[SawdustDave]

Thanks for that last post Ed. Even though I used the same technique with the Confederacy, I had completely forgotten the process I used over four years ago. Checked my boneyard cabinet and found everything sitting right there. I'll be using it to create the Mayflower's stern figures.

Getting old is hell.

Edited January 18, 2015 by SawdustDave

[EdT]

I will be interested to see your results, Dave.

 

Ed

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 106 – Painting

 

I’ve always preferred to leave models in natural wood, but some of Young America will be painted.  After painting the hull planking above the planksheer, the stern decoration could be painted.  The first phase of that is shown in the first picture.

 

 

All the paints and the sealer being used so far are various types of artist’s acrylics.  The final coats will have some gloss.  Most of the gold stern decoration was painted first upside down – so I could see it and steady my hand.  The lines at the top were finished in the upright position as shown in the next picture.  Then several more inversions to nitpick.

 

 

This was a multi-multi step process – before everything looked reasonably presentable as shown in the next picture.

 

 

The planking below the painted part will also be black – down to the top of the brass sheathing.  I will paint that after completing treenailing.  In the next picture the white main main rail around the stern is being fitted.  Also one of the brass portholes is being test fit.

 

 

In the next picture the stern section of the main rail is being glued in.

 

 

The planking on this side is complete – just enough to anchor the deadeye chains below the lower rail.  The next picture shows the completed planking on the starboard side.

 

 

The planking on this side will be sheathed in “yellow metal” below the waterline.  The unpainted area at the bow is left unpainted to allow gluing of the decoration carvings.  The last picture shows the main deck during painting of the inboard bulwarks - the blue is masking tape to keep paint out of the structural work.

 

 

The sanding and painting of this complex woodwork is real fun – several coats worth.  The paint  accentuates every rough area and crack.  I am not too concerned about the area forward of the large vertical samson post.  It will be covered with the forecastle.  Also, the rack rails – pin rails – that run the full length of the deck will fit up under the upper rail - hiding some of the inboard planking.  The waterway – painted blue – will fit in under the lower rail.  There will be a white cap rail all along the top.

  

Ed

[SawdustDave]

Oh yes!

Gold on black is about as classy as it gets Ed.

Beautiful work as always.

 

Dave

[GLakie]

The stern decorations turned out beautiful Ed! Very nice! 

 

Cheers

[fnick]

Absolutely majestic Ed. I will be a happy modeller if I can get to 10% of your capabilities!

 

Wonderful work.

 

Nick

[dgbot]

I wish my hands were that steady nice job.

David B

[SJSoane]

 

Very elegant, Ed. Beautifully crafted.

 

Mark

[Elia]

Beautiful work, Ed. I have to admit that seeing the painted surfaces was somewhat disconcerting at first as I admire all your work, from the stanchion extensions of the frames, the the planking and treenails (or fasteners). But that stern scrollwork and painting is so very sharp. I (like so many) look forward to your next installment.

 

Cheers

 

Elia

[Maury S]

Ed,

 Your balance of painted and unpainted areas will look great. 

Maury

[Remcohe]

 

 

before everything looked reasonably presentable......

 

yes but just barely...

 

no just kidding it looks great

 

Remco

[michael mott]

Ed lovely work on the gold painting, you do indeed have a steady hand.

 

Michael

[Mirabell61]

What a great decoration Ed,

 

I guess you are Holding the breath when you are applying with the fine brush,

fantastic look !

 

Nils

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 107 – Lower Hull Work

 

I finally finished the hull planking this week and got some other tasks well along.  The first picture shows the full extent of the planking on the port side – as yet unpainted..

 

 

The deck is still masked for painting the white inside bulwarks.  That work is now also finished and the installation of the painted waterways can proceed.

 

The next picture shows some of the seemingly endless task of treenailing the planking.

 

 

This work, too, is now complete on both sides of the hull.  The picture also shows work on the rudder gudgeons.  These were made by first silver soldering a tube into a groove in a sheet of .032” brass.  The rough gudgeons were then ripped off on the circular saw as shown below.

 

 

The .032” brass – about 2 ½” at 1:72 – is too thick for the straps, but allowed the thick area at the hinge to be shaped.  The 6” wide straps were then bent and filed back to about 1” thick.  The next picture shows the bottom four installed using small brass nails.

 

 

The 16” aft face or the stern post is notched to receive the 6” wide gudgeons.  These were aligned when being fitted by a stiff, straight rod through the holes.  The end of the rod will mark the final center of the round helm opening – which must be on the hinge centerline.

 

The next picture shows the gudgeons on the starboard side. 

 

 

The top one will be installed after this side is painted.  Some of the lowest rows of “yellow metal” sheathing have been installed around the gudgeon.  This will be the only gudgeon requiring this, since this is the lowest of the planking at the stern.  The top of sheathing line – parallel and slightly above the load waterline - can be seen in this picture.  There will be several rows of sheathing.  The top row will be on the straight, horizontal sheathing line.  The strakes below will follow the planking shear and “gore” into this top strake. 

 

The brass plates were cut from .002” brass.  The nailing pattern was embossed into the plates used an embossing device.  The picture below shows the nail pattern being drilled in a wood block to make this.

 

 

The thickness of the block was sized carefully to allow small steel nails to be inserted from the underside.  The tips protrude just enough to impart the pattern when stamped as shown below.

 

 

Stamping these plates is almost as thrilling as treenailing.  Fortunately there are only about a half-dozen rows. A close up of the first few stamped plates is shown in the last photo.

 

 

After the pine stamping block “breaks in” the dimples become more regular.  These are like little cheese graters.  They are fastened with contact cement – another enjoyable task.  After making and installing 3700 of these my Victory model, I swore I wouldn’t do this again – but that was in 1978.

  

Ed