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Bugatti Type 35B by CDW - FINISHED - Italeri - 1:12 Scale


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Posted (edited)

The beginning of the dashboard and firewall construction. More details to come.

Construction and finishing began with black primer-surfacer, then aluminum. The hammered aluminum panels are decals supplied in the kit as are the individual instruments dials. 

The red-brown object in the middle of the dashboard is the magneto. I presume the driver controlled the advance and retard of the ignition timing from this location.

 

 

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Edited by CDW
Posted

You are cruising through your build Craig, it seems and what you produce pleases the eye. The chassis, motor combo looks so realistic, same with the dashboard.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9
                             MaschinenKrieger Friedrich by DocRob - Wave - 1/20 - PLASTIC - Another one bites the dust
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20
 

Posted
  On 10/3/2023 at 8:04 AM, DocRob said:

You are cruising through your build Craig, it seems and what you produce pleases the eye. The chassis, motor combo looks so realistic, same with the dashboard.

 

Cheers Rob

Expand  

Thanks Rob. I've had more time than usual to spend on this kit, so that's helping move things along. Part of it is just the enjoyment of building it. We discussed earlier whether or not Italeri would do an acceptable job with the kit, and in my opinion, it's going together even better than expected. No major fit issues whatsoever and only a few minor ones. The molds are new so there is very little/no flash. Relatively few imperfections to take care of.

Posted

''I presume the driver controlled the advance and retard of the ignition timing from this location''.

 

Don't know exactly what this car was fitted with, but at that period it was common to find ignition advance/retard and carburetor control levers (including the throttle) mounted on the steering wheel.

Posted

This pretty much finishes up the dashboard. Steering column and steering wheel get added later. More to do to finish the firewall. The seat needs paint and weathering, which will be a mini project to weather and age it the way I want it to be.

It's interesting to me the way the ignition wiring passes through the center of the dashboard and into the face of the magneto.

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Posted

Back in that era, spark advance was mechanical, controlled by a lever mounted to the center of the steering wheel... Pull down to retard, Push up to advance....

 

Operation was open the throttle, (pedal on the floor) and when the engine started pinging or backfiring as the RPM's increased, you pushed the advance lever up to get the spark ahead of TDC for better combustion....

 

When the distributor was developed, they realized that they could advance the spark based upon manifold vacuum automatically and much more accurately, and the manual lever magneto controls went away...

 

Average speed jumped by 10 MPH...

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted

Just caught up with your log Craig.  Really pristine work my friend, looking fantastic!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted
  On 10/4/2023 at 7:40 PM, Egilman said:

Back in that era, spark advance was mechanical, controlled by a lever mounted to the center of the steering wheel... Pull down to retard, Push up to advance....

 

Expand  

For the most part, I agree, but on this car, there are no controls on the steering column or steering wheel. It's got to be somewhere else.

My '64 Harley panhead had the spark advance control on the left hand grip. 🙂

Posted

Just a heads-up for anyone who may build this kit in the future.

The plans call for a .5mm wire supplied with the kit to be used as a brake cable as seen in step  8. Instead of the .5mm wire, consider using something of less diameter and more flexible. Also, find a more efficient way to terminate the brake line at the brake drums seen in step 26. Tying a square knot just doesn't cut it for me. Got to be a better way. Will find another way to do this and will show photos of how I did it later on in this thread. 

 

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Posted

Many years ago I had the pleasure to spectate at a Cadwel Park event which included a dedicated Bugatti race.

Not surprisingly, the winner was Earl Howe himself, in his own Bugatti.

There was no messing about and you could tel who the money people were; they were the ones who never shut the throttle and had no fear of a blow-up.

A remarkable spectacle.

https://newsroom.bugatti.com/press-releases/the-spiritual-home-of-bugatti-in-england-for-more-than-90-years

Posted
  On 10/5/2023 at 9:42 PM, CDW said:

This leaves me to wonder about the tensioning of the cables. When the wheels were steered left or right, it seems like one side or the other would tighten or get slack. How was this dealt with? Hmmmmm

Expand  

Dunno, but I've driven a couple of 3 wheeler Morgans, set up like that, without issues.

 

As mentioned somewhere, it may be the Bugatti's were ahead of the game.....did an online search and found they seem to have had a 'clean' wheel.

Posted (edited)
  On 10/5/2023 at 9:42 PM, CDW said:

This leaves me to wonder about the tensioning of the cables. When the wheels were steered left or right, it seems like one side or the other would tighten or get slack. How was this dealt with? Hmmmmm

Expand  

The Sheave for the cable is centered on the pivot point of the spindle, the brake lever remains at the same distance around the pivot point no matter which way it is turned...

 

I forget what the geometry term is for this phenomena, but believe me it's real...

 

If you moved the sheave to any other location, yes, you would have a cable tension problem as you turned the wheels...

 

Mechanical brakes only work correctly as long as there is little to no slack in the operating cable....

 

If there is any minor slack in operation, a simple spring tensioner on the cable is employed to take that up.... (that is what your "S" chain in the middle is doing, it runs around two gears pulling against spring tension, travel is small only enough to take up the slack... Keeps the cable taut without overcoming the brake lever springs at the shoe)

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

"Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow"

Posted
  On 10/6/2023 at 12:17 AM, Egilman said:

If there is any minor slack in operation, a simple spring tensioner on the cable is employed to take that up.... (that is what your "S" chain in the middle is doing, it runs around two gears pulling against spring tension, travel is small only enough to take up the slack... Keeps the cable taut without overcoming the brake lever springs at the shoe)

Expand  

Italeri did a good job capturing the major mechanical pieces of this car, but it's a bridge too far to capture everything. I think the main purpose of the S chain is to apply tension to the brakes front and rear at the same time while also as you said, applying that all-important tension...probably spring tension involved, not captured by the plastic pieces provided in the kit.

I do think it's an important feature that Italeri did not capture, failing to show in the instructions how the cables were routed around a pully before attaching at the termination point.

Posted

Primed the body panels, now ready for paint. Laced up the stone guard for the radiator, installed the front leaf springs and shock dampers. Added the ignition wiring and a few placards on the firewall. The brass reservoir added to the firewall. More piping goes in the engine compartment later, along with throttle linkages. Still need to deal with those .5mm silver wire brake cables after I install the front axle, brake drum, and steering linkages assemblies. It's getting there.

 

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Posted

Incredible  work  Craig   -  it looks  just like  the real thing.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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