HMS Harpy 1796 by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post 12

More patterns to add.

The final action of this section is to add the stern counters and Gunport patterns.

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The lower counter is fitted first, I soaked this piece before clamping into place.

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The Upper counter follows; I did need to tweak this a little to follow the run of the Lower.

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The lower counter includes the discharge hole for the Port side seat of ease, quaintly described as the ‘Necefsary’ on the Adm Plan.

 

Gunport patterns

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The forward end was soaked, clamped around a tube, and given the heat treatment.

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The parts can then be dry fitted along the hull.

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There is a guide-line on the pattern to match with the line of the ply sub-deck, to maintain the ports at the correct level above deck.

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On this basis, where the pattern reaches the stern I found it sat just below the level of the stern deck cabins. Not entirely sure if this is correct, but there is not a profile drawing of this stage on the plans. The Manual photos would suggest perhaps not, but not very clear on this particular aspect.

 

Still, I am where I am, and I need to maintain the gunport levels.

 

The Starboard side pattern was fitted using pins and pva.

It goes without saying that glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions, but I did glue against the side of the stern cabins, and the forward end into the prow slot. Diluted glue was then run along the joints below the sub deck. Before pinning I Painted glue on the bulkheads below the subdeck.

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The Portside was fitted 24 hrs later, but firstly I checked that the sides were level with each other. Once satisfied I pinned and glued as before.

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Some tidying up and then onto planking.

 

B.E.

28/12/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 13 – unlucky for some

In Post 11 I mentioned the potential hazard of snapping the keel. This turned out to be a self-fulfilling prophecy.

0314

Manoeuvring with the model in the Keel clamp it happened. Re-attached with pva I hope the repair holds until I fit the outer panels.

0320

Styrene provides a useful support when inverting the model.

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I took the pre-caution of adding temporary boards to protect the False keel during the next stages.

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The Fiddle head at the prow which also split earlier has been removed for safe keeping.

These set-backs are minor and won’t have a lasting effect on the model.

 

B.E.

29/12/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 14

Onto First Planking

For the past week I have been busy planking the hull.

The Gunport patterns have been fitted and trimmed to fit the stern counter and I’m liking the look of her.

My younger modelling self of the 1970’s/80/s would be amazed  to get this far in only three weeks of work.

 

First Planking.

This is in 5 x1mm Limewood and the kit provides a good standard of timber.

I have covered my first layer planking method in my previous builds, so I won’t go fully into it here.

Suffice to say I use a combination of taper, edge bend, bevel, tick marks, and eye.

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033

Having completed seven strakes down from the Gunport pattern, the Garboard strake is fitted using a wider 7mm limewood strip.

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This is followed by the adjacent plank using 6mm strip.

 Planking continues….

 

B.E.

05/01/2025

[Blue Ensign]

Post 15

Completion of first planking

I am now planking alternate strakes from wale down and keel up.

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My usual approach is to get a final spiled plank beneath the round of the hull.

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As I proceed, I can see that the stern area would require more planks than the standard 5mm midships planks, resulting in the need of several stealers to fill in.

As it turned out I‘ve needed to adopt a combination of techniques to get the hull planked. Tapering, Edge bending, spiling, drop planks, and even a stealer at the stern.

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I used a drop plank at this point.

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The final piece of the jigsaw is a stealer and the first planking is complete.

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Note; the stealer doesn’t end in a point but is squared off and cut into the adjoining planks against a frame.

Not critical on a first layer, but it should be the arrangement on a show layer should stealers be required.

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I am fairly well content at this point, not an arrangement I would accept as a single planking display, but as a base for the second Hardwood layer it is fine.

0104

I am pleased to note that even at this rough stage the hull conforms well to the build cradle.

Time to clean up the hull.

 

B.E.

08/01/2025

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 16

Sanding the hull

For this I am using flexible sanding blocks and papers. I start with 120 grade papers.

0105

I decided not to use the B&D Mouse sander, seemed overkill on a small hull like this and Limewood is fairly soft to sand.

Indefatigable it ain’t.

Where there were hair gaps between the strakes pva was run in, sand dust sprinkled on, and then sanded in.

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I finished off with 180 paper.

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The hull seems to have scrubbed up nicely, I’m still amazed when I reach this point that it looks as good as it does given the state before sanding, but the display planking will be a job of a different calibre.

 

The next stage involves fitting the lower stern boards.

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These are pre-printed 0.8mm patterns that should just sit above the first planking layer, presumably to meet the second Pear layer.

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Worth checking before the hull sanding stuff is put away.

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The sanding job has taken around 3 hours, but I will review my efforts tomorrow as a final check.

I will apply sanding sealer to the hull but it’s far too cold in these ‘ere parts for outdoor work, so that will have to wait.

 

B.E.

09/01/2025

 

 

[James H]

39 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

These are pre-printed 0.8mm patterns that should just sit above the first planking layer, presumably to meet the second Pear layer.

 

On the prototype, this was done as with the other ships. The was sanded flush to the lime, then the second layer sits atop that.

 

[Glenn-UK]

58 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

I will apply sanding sealer to the hull.

 

Your planking is very impressive. What sanding sealer are you planning to use?

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for the  'heads up'  James,  I wish I'd known that an hour ago ! 😉

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

5 minutes ago, Glenn-UK said:

Your planking is very impressive. What sanding sealer are you planning to use?

 

Thank you Glenn, I've had the tin for years - it says on the label Manufactured for J Perkins.  They are a very old Model Company, and they still supply it.

Thoroughly nasty stuff,  care needed when using it.

 

B.E.

[James H]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

 

Thank you Glenn, I've had the tin for years - it says on the label Manufactured for J Perkins.  They are a very old Model Company, and they still supply it.

Thoroughly nasty stuff,  care needed when using it.

 

B.E.

 

I used that stuff all the time when I was building flying models. You needed good, er, ventilation.

[Blue Ensign]

Preferably on top of the Pennines with the wind at your back.😃

Edited January 9 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 17

Dressing the Hull

As a break from planking the time has come to fit many of those engraved Pearwood veneers that complete the outer look of the model.

These essentially replace the need for individual planking of the topsides and stern counters. I am mostly at ease with these simplifications as a similar system was used on the Sphinx model and I like the look of her.

0154

Firstly, additional veneer pieces representing the Knee of the head, including the Fiddle scroll, keel and stern post are glued and pegged into place.

0136

The stern post pieces needed a little fettling to fit. A gentle touch is required, these are fragile parts.

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I have not yet fitted the pre-printed lower stern boards, I have something in mind for that area.

 

B.E.

11/01/2025

[SaltyScot]

This all looks very neat and precise, the beginnings of a fine ship. I am going to keep an eye on this one sir.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in SaltyScot, early days but I think she's shaping up.

 

Post 18

Square Tuck or what?

Post 36 about planking below the lower counter has set a hare running in my mind.

Harpy kit prototype build..

What we are looking at here is a Square Tuck arrangement and the idea that the hull planking with open grain ends finishing atop the vertical planking seems somewhat impractical and may simply be a kit simplification.

 

My mind went back to my Cheerful build and the arrangement designed by Chuck, with framing for the Tuck, and boards inserted leaving no open ends.

Chuck's Cheerful arrangement.

 

I decided to use the engraved pieces for the tuck but play around with a frame arrangement that at least gives a nod to the set-up for a square tuck as seen on small vessels.

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The frame shapes were cut out on the jigsaw and this is the arrangement very much in the rough. The hull planking will butt against the frame which will cover the grain ends, which is always good carpentry practice.

I will infill with planks to sit flush with the framing.

0164

This is not a big issue in terms of the overall look of the model and the planking will proceed as per the kit arrangement.

I will re-visit this once the planking has been completed and decide which version I  prefer.

 

B.E.

12/01/2025

 

[davyboy]

Hi Maurice,

 

She's looking good. These fashion pieces look much better than that shown on the prototype build.  The Speedwell has exactly the same arrangement on the lower counter,I suspect that would be fairly common construction practice back in the day on small ships still using the older style square tuck . I'm currently chipping away at the boxwood carved figures of the two ladies ornamenting Speedwell's tafferel,then there are other smaller pieces to be done. Heigh Ho,get there eventually I guess.

 

Dave 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Dave, obviously it would be a faux  arrangement as I'm constrained by the kit bulkhead set up, but hopefully it would look a tad more authentic than end grain planks.

I wish you good fortune with the carving, keep you chisels sharp and cuts small. I always find the tension rising as I get towards the completion of a piece, particularly if I am  pleased with it, there's always that worry.....

 

Cheers,

 

Maurice.

[Desertanimal]

Finally catching up on your build. Amazing work as always Maurice. I’m currently about half way through the second planking on my Alert. I’ve been referring to your builds among others. It’s great to be able to see the detail to help new guys like me get a grip on this planking thing! 
Looking forward to seeing this come together.

 

Chris

[Nipper]

That square tuck looks much neater with your framing arrangement.  Great thinking on your part although I realise you haven't defintely decided to go with it.

 

This is a good example of how your blog is so helpful.  Your willingness to go off-piste in order to improve a model (even such great ones as Vanguard's), helps me to think a bit more outside the box as well (pun unintentional but it's appropriate!).  Little alterations such as these make the model more personal and more satisfying.  

 

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Chris and Nipper it's satisfying to know that my Logs  are of use to others. I too am grateful for the logs of others who also help me along the way.

 

Post 19

Topsides

The beautifully detailed Topsides save a lot of effort in planking around the gunports and what look like sweep ports.

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Before I started, I marked the station lines down the hull to assist the planking.

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The pattern was soaked at the forward end and clamped to the hull overnight to take the stress out of the bow curve.

 

 A useful innovation designed by Chris are gunport alignment jigs.

These are handed Port and Starboard and fit the ports  from  2 at the Bow to 10 at the stern.

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Before I applied glue anywhere near the patterns I dry fitted with the jigs in place. The jigs need a little cleaning-up by removal of any fret nubs to ensure a perfect fit. Once gluing is in progress you don’t want to be fiddling around trying to get the jigs into place.

0182

Once I was happy with the fit of the jigs I glued the two sections together.

 

I did find that I needed to finely shave the bow end of the pattern by degrees to allow alignment with the ports, several dry fit checks were necessary before I committed to glue.

This is a critical part of the build and it has to be correct.

 

Gluing is a tricky business given the length of the pattern.

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I chose to start at the bow, gluing and clamping along to the third port whilst checking the alignment at the stern. The pva was applied to the hull.

I did find it necessary to pin all along the bottom edge of the pattern to counter the tendency to curl.

I used slightly thicker pins than those provided for this purpose.

0186

I then progressively glued along the hull at three port intervals, constantly re-checking the fit of the jigs, and removing/ replacing them to avoid any risk of stray glue sticking them.

0191

It has taken the best part of a day to get one side fitted.

0193

A main consideration is to guard against marring the surface of the Pearwood veneers. Unwanted pva or ca will be problematical, and I have both clean water and Acetone handy to immediately clean off any spills.

 

Onto the Starboard side.

 

B.E.

13/01/2025

[ECK]

I agree the wood is soft so I  tape over bulwarks on second planking . Also when using clamps usually put some scrap wood so no direct pressure on the veneers.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 20

Pear wood planking

I sorted the planks by colour, keeping even tones for planking below the wales to the waterline.

A few were rejected by reason of poor grain match altho’ these could be used for the lower hull particularly if it is to be coppered.

 

I always knock up a temporary support base to hold the hull inverted for planking and coppering. I find it helps a lot to keep the hull steady.

0205

The hull will spend a lot of time inverted.

In this shot I have applied two strakes below the Gunport pattern, tapering to 3mm at the bow and leaving full width at the stern.

0206

The hull has been coated with sanding sealer which I think gives a better surface for ca to grip. I also dampen the back of the planks before applying ca, again I think it helps rapid grab.

 

I have taken a different approach to the planking on this model.

In reality, and on PoF model building, wales are fitted directly to the frames. I thought I would have a play around and plank down to just below the lower edge of the wale, fit the wales and trim back to the lower edge. The top line of the wale is marked on the Topsides veneer already fitted.

0214

Part of the Pear planking can be seen below the wale, this will be removed.

This will allow the planking proper to begin below the wale and run naturally rather than the wale covering the plank below in a random manner.

It also allows for the fitting of a drop plank should the mood take me as I know exactly where the wale line is.

I initially soaked and pinned the wales to retain the Bow form. At the stern the wale should run under the round of the hull a little, this area was also soaked and pinned.

0211

Getting the wales to fit close is a clamp heavy exercise, and I modify cheap clothes pegs to suit. I used pva to glue the wales.

 

With the wales firmly fixed the planks protruding below are removed, a fairly easy exercise but care had to be taken not to  run off line when scoring the plank line for removal. This could prove unfortunate for the wale patterns.

I used a new Number11 scalpel blade for the purpose on each side.

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The white area is where planking was removed. This will be lightly sanded and sealer applied.

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I can now work out my planking approach.

 

B.E.

17/01/2025

[SaltyScot]

I like your methodical approach here sir. It shows in the quality and standard of the work being turned out.

[Richard44]

Interesting method of doing the wales/planking B.E. I'll have to have a serious think about it when I get to that stage in my build. Thanks.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 21

Pearwood Planking

I begin with making a Drop plank to fit directly below the wale at the bow.

Above and running into the drop plank is a plank that runs the remainder of the way along the hull also directly below the wale.

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This plank I fit first, it terminates at the third bulkhead with a tapered width of 3mm. It then runs at full width to the stern.

0032

A temporary plank is run beneath to gauge the bottom line of the Drop plank.

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With this in place a pattern can be made for the Drop plank. This also tapers to 3mm at the stem, butts against the plank above it on its topside, and runs beneath it with a tail to bulkhead four.

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The patterns are cut out of some spare Pear fret.

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Dry fitting the drop.

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After a lot of tweaking and dry fitting they are glued into place.

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My next job will be to check the remaining strake numbers required and size up the Garboard Strake.

 

B.E.

18/01/2025

 

 

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up. That pearwood planking is looking very nice.

 

John