Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED

[NMBROOK]

Great to see the start of the keel 'laid' Mark I have actually downloaded the NRG article on Hahn's build of this vessel so I have a better understanding as I follow along Many,many thanks to Chuck for his hard work that has made that possible.She is a very fine looking vessel

 

Kind Regards Nigel

[texxn5]

Mark, I read that as you have gotten so good that there will be no reason for do overs....therefore no need to worry.....and by the way..don't deny it..you are good! Enjoy the build Bro' great start.....

[src]

Mark,

At work we have a saying - "We do it nice 'cause we do it twice!"

When it comes out better the second time it all worth it.

Hhhmmmm maybe that should be my signature.... what rhymes with quintuple?

Sam

[mtaylor]

Nigel -- I agree that she is lovely ship with some great lines.

 

John -- I am but an apprentice and still learning what I can and can't do.  And what my tools can do and can't do.  However, I have aspirations.

 

Sam -- we used say:  "there's never time to do right the first time, but always time to do it again". 

[texxn5]

Ah, but of course....have fun

[gjdale]

Mark,

 

Do-overs are just another way that this hobby provides value for money. Twice the enjoyment of making each part (at least).

[popeye the sailor]

your just getting more comfortable with it Mark........a keener eye,  makes sawdust fly!

[dafi]

Nice to see you on the road again!

 

Three cheers, Daniel

[NenadM]

Wild cat prowls around prey, and just about to jump ...

Edited February 25, 2014 by Nenad M

[manannan]

hey mark

looking great and as always inspirational

thanks

[NenadM]

Wild cat is still ...

[mtaylor]

Wild cats and all... Willy in the background playing "On the Road Again".   Anyway, here's an update.

 

Keel is ready....  keelson is being re-used.  It's cherry and will be hidden so why re-invent the wheel.

 

 

The stem is just about there.  I'm sorting out a way to make the caulking/felt lines better.  There seems to be something (not sure how it happens) that when there's a very tight fit, the glue line disappears.  A good thing?  Or an aggrevation?  The stem still needs some mill work for the gammoning holes and two (I think) through holes for the bobstays.  The plans aren't clear on this and pictures from the article and the CD aren't clear in this area.  Also trying to sort out the taper on this, if any.

 

 

I'm currently redoing the sternpost in boxwood.  The picture shows the Version 1.0 sternpost and rudder that were never put on the old ship.  I'm thinking about the rudder given the wood contrasts based on the test, I'm trying visualize if I should re-do it boxwood or not.

 

[michael mott]

Moving right along there Mark, looking good.

 

Michael

[WackoWolf]

Looking very nice Mark. As far as the rudder if you do it in Boxwood it will match with the post, but you are the Boss do what looks good for you. Remember you seeing everything real time, so you are getting a better pictures of what things look like. You will make the right choice, I am sure.

[dgbot]

Mark If you whish to show the glue line have yoy experimentws with a little ink or stain with the glue?

David B

[NenadM]

Wild cat jumped ... and ...

 

PS

 

watching and learning very carefully

 

with popcorns 

Edited February 28, 2014 by Nenad M

[EdT]

Mark, I found that to get a uniform glue line, especially in curved fayed pieces,that the fit has to be almost perfect and the clamping pressure moderate. At best it will be a fine line. More pigment in theglue may help. Be sure to coat the edges liberally with glue so it squeezes out all along the line when clamped. The alternative if you want a very pronounced uiform line is,s you porbably know, to use paper at the expense of joint strength. I am told that black tissue absorbs glue and adds strength, but I have not tried it. The latex paint that I use on planking would be a bit messy and time consuming on all these structural parts and it also leaves a weak joint. Copper wire bolts with epoxy can overcome the joint strength problems if you go the paper/paint route. Its always a journey.

 

Ed

[shipmodel]

Hi Mark -

 

Coming along nicely, as everyone says.  v.2 will be a significant upgrade from v.1.  Then again, I'll be looking forward to v.3 . . v.4 . . v.5 . . :-))

 

As for the glue line, I don't think that you have to worry overmuch.  The human eye will fill in any missing sections when viewing the completed model.  The stem looks good as it is.  Your technique is working well.

 

One suggestion, derived from hard experience, is not to drill the bobstay holes yet.  Just pencil them in for now.  Their location will be determined by the final length of the bowsprit, the exact location of the collars, and the type and thickness of your ropes.  I have had to plug and relocate the hole for the inner bobstay when the stay fouled the stem and figurehead.  Now I wait till I am doing the rigging to drill the holes. Of course, if you are not planning on rigging her, then drill them where they look good and ignore this stray thought.

 

Be well.

 

Dan

[Sjors]

I still don't know what I'm looking at but I like it Mark !   

Just kidding....

Nice to see some progress !

 

[popeye the sailor]

good to see some wood being jostled into position.........well on your way now!!!

[augie]

Nice looking stem, Mark.

[rafine]

Great to see you back in business Mark. 

 

Bob

[mtaylor]

Thanks for looking in, the comments and the "likes".  The Thurston saw blades came in and so far, the testing looks great.  I'm not seeing the scoring on the cut like the MM blades. 

 

 

Looking very nice Mark. As far as the rudder if you do it in Boxwood it will match with the post, but you are the Boss do what looks good for you. Remember you seeing everything real time, so you are getting a better pictures of what things look like. You will make the right choice, I am sure.

 

I slept on it and dug out a bit of boxwood.  I'm going to replace it. 

 

 

Mark If you whish to show the glue line have yoy experimentws with a little ink or stain with the glue?

David B

 

Dave,

I'm trying EdT's method of pigment.  Here's my test post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=164373

 

 

Wild cat jumped ... and ...

 

PS

 

watching and learning very carefully

 

with popcorns 

 

The cat has landed....     Enjoy the popcorn.  We have plenty and this will be a long journey.

 

Mark, I found that to get a uniform glue line, especially in curved fayed pieces,that the fit has to be almost perfect and the clamping pressure moderate. At best it will be a fine line. More pigment in theglue may help. Be sure to coat the edges liberally with glue so it squeezes out all along the line when clamped. The alternative if you want a very pronounced uiform line is,s you porbably know, to use paper at the expense of joint strength. I am told that black tissue absorbs glue and adds strength, but I have not tried it. The latex paint that I use on planking would be a bit messy and time consuming on all these structural parts and it also leaves a weak joint. Copper wire bolts with epoxy can overcome the joint strength problems if you go the paper/paint route. Its always a journey.

Ed

 

Thanks Ed.  I also thought about a bit of the "v" groove between joints...  I don't like the paper idea due to the strength issues, but I'll do some testing.   I think more pigment, when I get to the planking, might be good.  I'll be testing this also during the framing.  Why waste a good pot of glue?

 

 

Hi Mark -

 

Coming along nicely, as everyone says.  v.2 will be a significant upgrade from v.1.  Then again, I'll be looking forward to v.3 . . v.4 . . v.5 . . :-))

 

As for the glue line, I don't think that you have to worry overmuch.  The human eye will fill in any missing sections when viewing the completed model.  The stem looks good as it is.  Your technique is working well.

 

One suggestion, derived from hard experience, is not to drill the bobstay holes yet.  Just pencil them in for now.  Their location will be determined by the final length of the bowsprit, the exact location of the collars, and the type and thickness of your ropes.  I have had to plug and relocate the hole for the inner bobstay when the stay fouled the stem and figurehead.  Now I wait till I am doing the rigging to drill the holes. Of course, if you are not planning on rigging her, then drill them where they look good and ignore this stray thought.

 

Be well.

 

Dan

 

Thanks Dan,

I think  you're right on the glue lines... the stem gets overshadowed by the rigging and all the headwork.  I think I'll follow your advise on the bobstay holes.  There's a unicorn that needs to fit in there...  yikes!  The gammoning hole would be close to put them in now, but waiting is probably a good idea.

[src]

Mark,

I think it looks great myself, but you need to make yourself happy. 

Mmmm POPCORN!

Sam

[mobbsie]

I'm not going to offer you any words of wisdom Mark, I know diddly squit of what you are doing.

 

All I am going to say is that I know what I like and I like what I see.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes"...

 

Sam,

I'm happy with the way this is going.  Really happy. 

 

Mobbsie,

I was hoping for some wise words... but I'm glad you like what you see. 

 

 

Update time,  yippee!!!

 

The backbone is complete.  (Almost.. forgot to finish trim the keel at the stern according to the picture).  The stem has been appropriately (I think) tapered and now attached to the keel.   The deadwood was made from the cherry since I didn't have any boxwood thin enough and attached along with the sternpost.   And, an rudder blank has been made. 

 

I discovered that misinterpreted the plans on V 1.0 for the stern deadwood and the sternpost.  The deadwood on V 2.0 isn't tapered but the sternpost and keel need to be.  It appears that the best way will be after planking when the planks, keel and sternpost can all be done at once.  Or least that's the way it appears in the Hahn photos.... 

 

I can now go wander off and fiddle with cleaning up the salvage parts, maybe make some bits and pieces, etc. while waiting for my framing wood to show up. 

 

[augie]

Nice start, Mark.  Please get that keel trimmed ---  it throws everything off

Your framing comes in April?

[mtaylor]

Nice start, Mark.  Please get that keel trimmed ---  it throws everything off

Your framing comes in April?

 

I'll trim in a bit...    As for April... yep.     But my fault.  I should have sorted this out last fall instead of waiting to start over.

[texxn5]

Looks good Mark, glad to see progress, glad you're happier with all of this...

[src]

Looks great to me (like I know what I am talking about....!) Nothing like positive progress to put a spring in your step!

 

Sam