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Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style


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Ended up with changing the lamps every time I need to make a photo :)

Bright lamps for modelling, softer ones for photos.

 

Gaetan, thanks for the advice, but it is a living room, so aesthetics matter. I moved from a lamp on the arm to two stationary mounted lamps because they are nicer.. :)

 

Started the fairing. Some fairies are definitely involved! It is a real miracle, what it does with the hull!

You can probably spot the difference between faired bow and other parts of the hull.

(Please enlarge the photos to see it better)

 

post-5430-0-64288800-1453406428_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-21987900-1453406432_thumb.jpg

 

And a "romantic" version with powerful lamps :)

post-5430-0-41165900-1453406435_thumb.jpg

 

This is a very first version, the highest grit was only 240.

Apparently, accidental finger marks are very visible on the faired frames.

Hope to finish the entire hull in a few weeks... Will see how it shines after the high grits :)

Edited by Mike Y
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Finished the most risky part of the fairing - the outer surface of the side that would be opened.

Lesson for the future - if you add the bolt simulation - add another millimiter of margin to the frame lines, especially on the sides of the hull (it is unlikely that the bottom would be problematic).

 

Ended up with some really thin sides around the midship:

post-5430-0-21139300-1453657401_thumb.jpg

 

But overall - nothing is screwed up! Just some bolts that are too close to the edge of the frame, but they are not poking to the side! :D

No finish applied, and will sand with fine grits right before finishing - apparently, finger marks are very visible.

 

post-5430-0-15997800-1453657399_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-72913400-1453657407_thumb.jpg

 

The transom wings required a lot of shaping! You can compare with the non-faired side on the right.

post-5430-0-50673900-1453657410_thumb.jpg

 

 

I tried lots of different tools for fairing, but ended up with this set:

post-5430-0-71407800-1453658232_thumb.jpg

 

Cork block shaped to be round on one side, and remains flat on another. Sandpaper - Mirka 120 grit.

Semi-flexible yellow thingy was very useful when sanding the bow and transom. Right the exact flex! Grit 90.

French curve scraper helped to level the frames, especially in the tight areas. In another areas, miniature chisel was used for that.

Surprisingly, block plane was very useful to quickly even out the frames, to later finish it with the sanding block.

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You got me smiling, Mike.  The fairing looks great.   I thought I was the only one who tried a plane on frames?   I also used it sparingly on the planks when I could.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Very nicely done Mike!

 

Have you finished working on the port side transoms?   

 

Alan

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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Very nicely done Mike!

 

Have you finished working on the port side transoms?   

 

Alan

Nope, the port side (that would be fully planked) is not shaped or faired at all. I specifically made that last photo to show the comparison :)

The port side transom is currently ugly as hell!

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I find matching one side to the other to be very exhausting working.  Knowing when to stop is always the biggest challenge because you cannot afford to go too far.  I imagine the transoms will be the biggest challenge yet!

 

Can't wait to see you master it!

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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Very nice work Mike. Must have been a bit nerve-wracking the first time you used the plane on it!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Installed "hawse timbers". There were three options

1) Install a filler piece. Meh!

2) Build hawse timbers as they should be, as TFFM describes it. Opened the chapter about it, realised I also need bollard timbers. And I was supposed to do that without any drawings and patterns, because Hahn omits that detail as non-important :)

Also, it will look weird - tightly spaced timbers at the bow, and evenly spaced simplified framing at the rest of the hull.

So - next time, next model :)

 

So I decided to go with option #3 - install one more frame that will look like a cant frame, and will follow the style of other frames.

 

Since there are no drawings for that, started with template. Used that mushy extra-soft basswood that is supplied with Longboat kit - it is better than cardboard for that purpose, and shapes easily with any tools.

Ended up with this beefy template:

 

post-5430-0-30163500-1455385380_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-81268900-1455385378_thumb.jpg

 

After lots of fitting and fine tuning, resulting hawse timber / extra cant frame ended up installed:

 

post-5430-0-13112000-1455385382_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-77535700-1455385383_thumb.jpg

 

Now making a side counter timbers. They would be built in TFFM way, because I do not like the way Hahn suggests to make it - with counter timbers installed 90 degrees to the ground, instead of following the curve of the hull.

post-5430-0-27104000-1455385920_thumb.jpg

Huh, really?

 

Going to do it this way (thanks Toni for a very clear photo in her Atlanta build log!)

post-5430-0-19234100-1455385988_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mike Y
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Side counter timbers are fun!

Starting with an oversized piece, made of two pieces each:

post-5430-0-80219100-1455466913_thumb.jpg

 

After cutting and sanding:

post-5430-0-70401500-1455466915_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-28777300-1455466918_thumb.jpg

 

Installed, with a really oversized wing-like timbers:

post-5430-0-91149100-1455466920_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-82665200-1455466922_thumb.jpg

 

Now need to cut them to shape right on the hull, fair and add some nice spacers :)

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Nice work on those counter timbers.  And after all that work, almost none of it will show!

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     Utrecht-1742

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale      Echo Cross Section   NRG Rigging Project 

                           Utrecht-1742

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

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Nice work on those counter timbers.  And after all that work, almost none of it will show!

 

Thanks! But actually, it would be fully visible. 

I will leave one side fully unplanked, which means that half of the counter timbers would be exposed (also with some skeleton of the quarter gallery). Like this:

 

post-5430-0-47471400-1455655464_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-69679600-1455655488_thumb.jpg

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http://www.dlumberyard.com/sells the plans and a timbering set for it.

However, I ended up buying another wood (from Arkowood), because the wood provided with the timbering set had a major colour variation and defects (if we talk about the wood for frames, other wood was fine), and had a very rough finish, and sanding it to smoother finish was a very tedious and dull work. If you have a thickness a sander / planer - that should not be a big deal though.

Edited by Mike Y
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Had very little time for modelling, pretty high activity in the office (in a good way though).

 

But finally finished the side counter timbers on the side that would be open (read as "the side where I am trying to make it nice").

This one should start with a very old Soviet anecdote:

Russians sold the top notch plane blueprints to Japan. Blueprints were very detailed and included a nice manual. 

Japanese engineers manufactured the parts, assembled the plane - but it was looking more like a steam locomotive, instead of a plane. Frustrated, they contact USSR embassy with an obvious "wtf" complaint. 

Soviet engineers replied: "we told you, read the manual carefully. It clearly states in the end: "after assembly, sand it down to plane-like shape"

 

So I installed some very oversized blocks and sanded them down to a wing-like shape. There are few minor errors (the wing transom corner was smoothened too much, and there are few minor dents), but I think it is decent for some part that was done totally from scratch, not according to Hahn's plans.

 

post-5430-0-77769100-1455963983_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-11099400-1455963981_thumb.jpg

 

post-5430-0-98109000-1455963987_thumb.jpg

 

Flipped the hull for the first time. Looks like a ship, actually! 

 

post-5430-0-70621600-1455963985_thumb.jpg

 

Time to finish the "ugly" side, and make a cradle for working with jig upside down, to access the inside of the hull.

 

P.S.: sorry for the very blurry thumbnails of the photos, not sure why the forum engine compresses them so much. Please look on the fullsize versions, they are not as blurry.

Edited by Mike Y
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Nice work on finding those frames inside the wood, Mike.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks for the comments and likes! :)

 

I'll take your "ugly" side any day, Mike. Loved the Soviet anecdote!

Greg, all the photos show the good side only. The ugly one is not shown yet - it has wood strips patching low spots, rough finish and a lot of shortcuts (simple gunport sills instead of angled, simplified transom framing, etc) The ugly side would be fully planked fom top to the bottom, so no need to bother with accuracy there. I will post a photo one day.. Just too ashamed to show it.

 

Dear Mike, your work allways pleases as dose you runni ng commentry and I regularly keep up .One thing and may be you will not be aball to anser as you may not be aball to enlage but the friget ,the grait cabin Ithink I can see some panalling at least in the lower part  .I know this is not dyrectly in this thread but do you have an inlagment of the grait cabin  thank you any way for first class log .robin

Hi Robin,

Do you mean the model I showed as a reference? Sorry, I do not have a pictures of its great cabin, the only one I have are from NMM website. Or I misunderstood the question?

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Robin, here is the NMM page with that model, maybe it will give you some additional information for your research: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html

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  • 1 month later...

Spent few weeks working on my "living room corner workshop" :)

Finally I have a lifting table! No more bending the neck and back when working with a small details! Hooorray!

 

Normal position:

post-5430-0-16491500-1458831229_thumb.jpg

 

Standing position:

post-5430-0-48878600-1458831241_thumb.jpg

 

All power tools are stacked below the table, except the disk sander that is used too frequently.

Small stuff is hidden in the drawers (need to add some internal compartments for a more efficient space use), and very frequently used tools are on a magnetic holder outside the drawers:

post-5430-0-64187300-1458831238_thumb.jpg

 

Everything is from IKEA, of course :)

Electrical table legs - BEKANT (I am very pleased with them, very little play, very stable, even better than my office table, which is far more expensive)

Table top - GERTON. It is a solid wood beech top, which I sanded and finished with tung oil.

Drawers - VALJE. They are  neat like tetris bricks, could be combined in many different ways.

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Anything with a closed rollout sections will not work - the drawers are mounted pretty high (to make room for liftong the table, 125cm in the top position), so things should be accesssible from the lower angle - shelfs are on the level of your head and sholders.

I will just make an internal plywood shelfs, should be simple. :)

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A very nice workspace, Mike. It looks well thought out with room for expansion.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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 If your shop is in the corner of your living room how do you deal with the wood dust?  The fine stuff must go everywhere.  Do you have a tabletop air filter, or do you just vacuum and dust a lot? 

I am vacuuming and wiping away dust after every modelling session. That is why all the drawers are closed with doors - dust will not get inside, easier to clean.

Also, the main dust producer is a disc sander, and I put a small vacuum next to it when sanding, most of the sawdust go there.

When doing some very dusty work, like sanding the hull - I am going to the kitchen and do it there, it is better designed for cleaning.

 

Dust, noise and space are always a limitations if you work in the living room.. But it is definitely possible.

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Hi Mike

 

"Dust, noise and space are always a limitations if you work in the living room.. But it is definitely possible...."

 

Mike - I also believe that our "better halves" also impose limitations on the living rooms, as well (if you know what I mean)

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

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