Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[rwiederrich]

Beautiful Michael....just wonderful, and the green is so stately and nautical.  Great choice.

Sorry to hear about the passing of your beloved shipmate.

 

Rob

[wefalck]

Looking very nice indeed.

 

Actually, a few years ago I bought a 'deep-buttoned' chair for my desk and found that the deep-buttoning on the seat is not so comfortable - but looking nice definetely.

[michael mott]

Pat, Rob, and Eberhard, Thanks for you comments and condolences. All the cushions are done now they just need the paint on the buttons. I am also in the process of remaking the floor of the cabin because it has cupped across its width. I also made it narrow enough to lift straight up out of the opening on the deck. I needed to add a little bit to the width of the floor in order to set the vertical panels properly. So instead of incremental fixes I am making a whole new floor which is actually easier . This will also take care of the slot that needed to be filled. I had a piece of nice close grained Clear fir which is the same material that the deck is made of, so have chosen to use it.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Here is the new floor.

step one was to re-saw the piece of fir into some 4 inch planks

 

Next the wood was set up so the the grain was flipped end for end to create the opposite cupping like this

the planks were glued up in pairs first

 

Then the six pairs were glued up in pairs again

 

 

Then the three pieces were glued together and given a final clean up with the bench plane and shaped to fit into the hull. After the fitting it was taken back to the bench to finish fitting the seat platforms with the maple edge.

 

The seat edge was cut from a lovely piece of fiddle back figured maple and I only had a small piece, so I used the jewelers saw to split it down the middle.

 

 

 

Before gluing the piece to the seat bottom I put a small chamfer on the bottom edge the top was done after it had been glued to the bottom, this gave it the rigidity and stability.

 

 

The floor was given a couple of coats of Teak oil and now to finish the port side back panels

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

[Bob Cleek]

Michael, I have to explain that I agonized about posting this comment. Your work on this model is nothing short of spectacular and a joy to behold. i realize the time it takes to maintain a log of this type and build a model at the same time. It probably nearly doubles the time involved, I'm sure. That said, because the level of your work is so high and your interest in accuracy so admirable, I dared post my thoughts, knowing that you may well have sound reasons for the subject of my comment. 

 

As lovely as the cabin sole you've glued up may be, in my not insignificant experience (I once worked for a yacht brokerage specializing in classic wooden vessels,) a cabin sole on a vessel such as yours would invariably be constructed of loose planks of perhaps six or eight inches in width, laid on top of the sole beams with their ends butting over a sole beam. The planks would usually have a finger hole drilled at each end and would be fitted loosely enough that they would not swell tightly and become difficult to lift. Sometimes, if there were a saloon table amidships, the plank or planks upon which the table rested were fastened to the sole beams with unplugged flush screws and the table screwed to those fastened planks. The purpose of leaving the sole planks loose was to afford easy access to the bilges below the sole to permit cleaning and to access the area for stowage. It was not uncommon, particularly in blue water cruising vessels, to take advantage of the bilge spaces to store canned provisions and other gear that didn't need to be immediately available.  The unplugged screws fastening the planks upon which a table was fastened were to permit the easy removal of the screw fastened sole plank to permit repainting the bilge on occasion. 

 

Additionally, one maxim of naval architecture is that the interior of vessels should to the greatest extent possible provide for ready access to the inside of the planking. If a serious leak develops, it is essential that the leak can be located and accessed quickly to control the damage, if possible. 

 

Again, thanks for sharing your build. It's one of the real gems of this forum!

 

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[WalrusGuy]

That's very nice and clean work! It's very motivating to seeing your progress 

 

1 hour ago, michael mott said:

I used the jewelers saw to split it down the middle.

 

Did you use any other jigs to cut this straight line? Or was it purely done with the jewellers saw? 

[michael mott]

9 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Michael, I have to explain that I agonized about posting this comment. Your work on this model is nothing short of spectacular and a joy to behold. i realize the time it takes to maintain a log of this type and build a model at the same time. It probably nearly doubles the time involved, I'm sure. That said, because the level of your work is so high and your interest in accuracy so admirable, I dared post my thoughts, knowing that you may well have sound reasons for the subject of my comment. 

 

9 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Additionally, one maxim of naval architecture is that the interior of vessels should to the greatest extent possible provide for ready access to the inside of the planking. If a serious leak develops, it is essential that the leak can be located and accessed quickly to control the damage, if possible. 

Hi Bob Thanks for your comments Please whenever something that I make seems to be in error of simply flat out wrong let me know. Having sailed in a small boat I know just how important it is to be able to clean out those deep difficult to reach places. As you know I have been using Stirling and Sons yacht "Integrity" for inspiration. The interior is so well fitted that it completely missed my attention that of course access to the bilges would have been accounted for. They just did such a good job of being subtle about it that it slipped to the back of the deep recess of my brain.

These few pictures from the web a few years ago that were used in a sales pitch by a yacht broker show what I mean, I have searched for the attribution for them but cannot find it so if there is a problem with them let me know and I will remove them.

 

Fortunately because all the interior components of my interior can be removed so that I can add the 100 lbs of lead when it finally goes for a free sail.

I will make some changes to the whole floor so as to make it look as if the floor has some loose planks. But for the integrity of making the cabin interior relatively easy to assemble and hold together inside I will keep it as a single piece.

Again Bob don't hesitate to give me critical insights and information to enable me to learn and improve things.

 

8 hours ago, WalrusGuy said:

Did you use any other jigs to cut this straight line? Or was it purely done with the jewelers saw? 

This cut was just freehand with the jewelers saw, I had to come from both ends because the throat of the saw was not deep enough, I followed a pencil line.

 

Michael

 

[wefalck]

This guys must have devised another way of lifting up the floor boards then. They fit indeed very snuggly. From the few sailing trips I did with friends around the Mediterranean and the Carribean (I am only holding an inland waterways certificate), I remember that filled the bilge with conserves and bottles (not only water ) and that boards usually had finger hole.

[FriedClams]

Simply wonderful work Michael.

 

Gary

[rwiederrich]

Michael, Not to be nitpicky, but if you notice your seat cushion compared to the actual one on the real boat...you will notice your model has a finish board along the front of the cushion,  I noticed this earlier but didn't want to say anything.  But a person would *Pinch* the back of their leg against that uncomfortable finish board.  The image you posted of the real boat shows a cushion with a pleasant soft edge.  It looks like your seat cushions might need to be a bit longer.  Compare the two and you'll see what I mean.

Apart from that your model is extremely beautiful and the details impeccable.   The image you posted of the real boat makes me drool..........

 

Rob

Edited February 18, 2021 by rwiederrich

[Bob Cleek]

It does appear that the sole planks in the prototype make provision for easy lifting. The two planks on either side of the saloon table appear to be screw-fastened as I described. The short planks in the galley, the butts of which are not staggered and align with the frames where sole beams or bearers would be fastened to the frames, clearly indicate that they are designed to lift easily. The absence of staggered butts on the sole planking definitely indicates that they are designed for lifting. The seams in the saloon sole may simply appear tight because of the lighting. The seams between the galley sole planks appear more loosely fit and their corners appear rounded a bit, as would be expected for removable sole planks. What caught my eye in your model's sole was its appearing like a finely finished hardwood floor. Constructing it of a single piece for modeling purposes makes perfect sense. You may want to consider cutting seams in your model sole to depict removable planks, though.

 

The partial ceiling planking to port in the forward compartment is also curious. No question it's there, but I wonder why. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose and isn't run forward, so it doesn't seem to be a structural feature. It almost seems as though there may have been a berth or bench there at some point which has been removed. Who knows? Perhaps it just gave a more finished look to the compartment. From a design standpoint, it was always difficult to effectively transition between the formal Edwardian joinerwork of the high style classic yachts and the exposed structure of the vessel itself. Many ceiled and paneled the interiors of the "owners and guests" compartments and abandoned the formal joinerwork entirely in the forepeak where the galley and crews accommodations were located.

 

Also in the forward compartment to port is a vintage copper Pascall Atkey "Pansy" charcoal cabin heater. (They are also available in stainless steel.) These are the coveted Rolls Royces of solid fuel cabin heaters manufactured by the storied Pascall Atkey chandlery (originally "ironmongers") on the Isle of Wight. They were, last I heard, still available from Pascall Atkey on bespoke order and at today's prices probably run $1,500 or more.  If I might prey upon your passion for detail, I'd love to watch you solder up a model of it!  Here's all you need to know to do so:  https://theconstantgaragesale.wordpress.com/portfolio/pascall-atkey-pansy-charcoal-heater/ The photos on this website are of a fairly modern version. The copy of the advertisement is quite old, judging from the prices quoted! 

 

I have a mint condition stainless Pascall Atkey "Pansy" similar to the one pictured in the website stored in my workshop. It was to go in a boat I owned, but I sold the boat before installing the heater and held on to it. I'll get around to listing it on eBay one of these days, i suppose. I pity whoever is tasked with disposing of my "Alladin's Cave" of tools and yacht gear when I inevitably shuffle off this mortal coil! 

Edited February 18, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[michael mott]

Wow! Such great feedback, So I spent today doing some remedial work, Covered off the two big issues. The picture shows the seats set against a narrower lip with a cleat underneath to ensure the cushion doesn't slide off the platform.

 

Some demarcation of the floor boards that can be lifted with some graphic representation of the flush lifting rings, These will be 2 inch ones (1/4") .

 

These will be easy to spin up out of some 1/4 diameter brass.

 

Michael

[Bob Cleek]

Looks perfect! First class! 

[wefalck]

Looks like a 1st yacht out-fitting job !

[rshousha]

For a second there, I thought I had drifted off to a page from Yachtworld, or something, and I was looking at one of my usual searches, "Bristol Cutters for Sale"...and then I saw the end of the pencil....

 

Really wonderful work. Thank you for sharing. 

 

Best Regards, 

 

Rick

 

[SJSoane]

Michael,

 

Lovely, lovely work. This truly is a work of art. And when did Angus start hanging around the shop?

 

Mark

[michael mott]

Well that was a lot tougher than I thought it would be.

I did not take any step by steps on this because I was fiddling about trying to make different bits so will do that for the next one.

This set up failed, too much of a heat sink

 

This worked a lot better.

 

I used a jewelers saw to remove the soldered piece then cleaned it up.

here is the unit set into the floor on the port side

 

with the ring raised

and the proverbial pencil for scale

 

 

Now for a break.

 

Michael

 

 

 

[G.L.]

Fantastic! You definitely deserved your break.

[Bedford]

You never cease to impress Michael

[wefalck]

He really did it - at not just a finger-hole, as most of us would have done ...

[druxey]

And functional, too! Hats off, gentlemen; a genius.

[FriedClams]

Well, my gob has been smacked almost beyond recognition.  Sweet work Michael - Bravo!

 

Gary

[BANYAN]

Wow - gob smacked!  Incredible work Michael.

 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Bob Cleek]

Fantastic! I almost feel bad being the occasion of putting you through all that, but just almost. Not quite. That's really beautiful.

 

 

[TBlack]

2 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Fantastic! I almost feel bad being the occasion of putting you through all that, but just almost. Not quite. That's really beautiful.

 

 

Bob,

You threw down a challenge and it was met and exceeded!

Tom

[michael mott]

Thank you all for your generosity now I have to come clean

Here is the step by step the pictures should speak for themselves. the basic body from some free machining 1/4 inch brass rod.

 

 

 

Next the pull rings are formed

 

basic components ready to set up the tab on the pull ring

 

A 1/8th chainsaw file was used to create the hollow

 

I love using my third hand

 

 

 

 

After removing them from the end of the bar with the jewelers saw they were filed flat .

 

The slot in the body was filed with a #4

 

 

The lift ring was placed to finalize the shape

 

 

I spent a few hours trying to set up a pin in the bottom side of the lift ring but failed to make it an actual operating pull and given that the floor boards would not be able to be lifted anyway I shall stick with them looking like they would work. ......Now if I had gone into watchmaking as I had originally thought I would when I was 15 years old perhaps they would be fully operational.

 

The design shows no screws because in world of my imagination the body of the pull penetrates the board and a flange is screwed onto the bottom side giving a much stronger connection and leaving a cleaner looking top surface.

 

That's my story an' I'm sticking to it.

 

Regards michael

 

 

[Ron Burns]

Sorry to jump in so late but that pull deserves a standing ovation! (as do the rest of your modeling wonders)

 

Thanks for showing us how it's supposed to be done

 

Ron

[wefalck]

I was wondering about those hinge-pins ... ;}   But would have been a waste of time, indeed.

[TBlack]

Takes a remarkably steady hand with the jeweler's saw and the #4 file to get crisp straight edges. Incredible!

Tom

[BANYAN]

Even with your admission Michael, they are still a work of art worthy of a watchmaker.

 

cheers

 

Pat