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Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)

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Michael, Not to be nitpicky, but if you notice your seat cushion compared to the actual one on the real boat...you will notice your model has a finish board along the front of the cushion,  I noticed this earlier but didn't want to say anything.  But a person would *Pinch* the back of their leg against that uncomfortable finish board.  The image you posted of the real boat shows a cushion with a pleasant soft edge.  It looks like your seat cushions might need to be a bit longer.  Compare the two and you'll see what I mean.

Apart from that your model is extremely beautiful and the details impeccable.   The image you posted of the real boat makes me drool..........



Edited by rwiederrich
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It does appear that the sole planks in the prototype make provision for easy lifting. The two planks on either side of the saloon table appear to be screw-fastened as I described. The short planks in the galley, the butts of which are not staggered and align with the frames where sole beams or bearers would be fastened to the frames, clearly indicate that they are designed to lift easily. The absence of staggered butts on the sole planking definitely indicates that they are designed for lifting. The seams in the saloon sole may simply appear tight because of the lighting. The seams between the galley sole planks appear more loosely fit and their corners appear rounded a bit, as would be expected for removable sole planks. What caught my eye in your model's sole was its appearing like a finely finished hardwood floor. Constructing it of a single piece for modeling purposes makes perfect sense. You may want to consider cutting seams in your model sole to depict removable planks, though.


The partial ceiling planking to port in the forward compartment is also curious. No question it's there, but I wonder why. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose and isn't run forward, so it doesn't seem to be a structural feature. It almost seems as though there may have been a berth or bench there at some point which has been removed. Who knows? Perhaps it just gave a more finished look to the compartment. From a design standpoint, it was always difficult to effectively transition between the formal Edwardian joinerwork of the high style classic yachts and the exposed structure of the vessel itself. Many ceiled and paneled the interiors of the "owners and guests" compartments and abandoned the formal joinerwork entirely in the forepeak where the galley and crews accommodations were located.


Also in the forward compartment to port is a vintage copper Pascall Atkey "Pansy" charcoal cabin heater. (They are also available in stainless steel.) These are the coveted Rolls Royces of solid fuel cabin heaters manufactured by the storied Pascall Atkey chandlery (originally "ironmongers") on the Isle of Wight. They were, last I heard, still available from Pascall Atkey on bespoke order and at today's prices probably run $1,500 or more.  If I might prey upon your passion for detail, I'd love to watch you solder up a model of it!  Here's all you need to know to do so:  https://theconstantgaragesale.wordpress.com/portfolio/pascall-atkey-pansy-charcoal-heater/ The photos on this website are of a fairly modern version. The copy of the advertisement is quite old, judging from the prices quoted! 


I have a mint condition stainless Pascall Atkey "Pansy" similar to the one pictured in the website stored in my workshop. It was to go in a boat I owned, but I sold the boat before installing the heater and held on to it. I'll get around to listing it on eBay one of these days, i suppose. I pity whoever is tasked with disposing of my "Alladin's Cave" of tools and yacht gear when I inevitably shuffle off this mortal coil! 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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Wow! Such great feedback, So I spent today doing some remedial work, Covered off the two big issues. The picture shows the seats set against a narrower lip with a cleat underneath to ensure the cushion doesn't slide off the platform.


Some demarcation of the floor boards that can be lifted with some graphic representation of the flush lifting rings, These will be 2 inch ones (1/4") .



These will be easy to spin up out of some 1/4 diameter brass.



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Well that was a lot tougher than I thought it would be.

I did not take any step by steps on this because I was fiddling about trying to make different bits so will do that for the next one.

This set up failed, too much of a heat sink



This worked a lot better.



I used a jewelers saw to remove the soldered piece then cleaned it up.

here is the unit set into the floor on the port side



with the ring raised


and the proverbial pencil for scale




Now for a break.






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Thank you all for your generosity now I have to come clean

Here is the step by step the pictures should speak for themselves. the basic body from some free machining 1/4 inch brass rod.IMG_1836x1024.jpg.ca7cf81b9831f905227d2b5d37724914.jpg






Next the pull rings are formed



basic components ready to set up the tab on the pull ring



A 1/8th chainsaw file was used to create the hollow



I love using my third hand









After removing them from the end of the bar with the jewelers saw they were filed flat .



The slot in the body was filed with a #4





The lift ring was placed to finalize the shape





I spent a few hours trying to set up a pin in the bottom side of the lift ring but failed to make it an actual operating pull and given that the floor boards would not be able to be lifted anyway I shall stick with them looking like they would work. ......Now if I had gone into watchmaking as I had originally thought I would when I was 15 years old perhaps they would be fully operational.


The design shows no screws because in world of my imagination the body of the pull penetrates the board and a flange is screwed onto the bottom side giving a much stronger connection and leaving a cleaner looking top surface.


That's my story an' I'm sticking to it.


Regards michael



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I started my new vocation today after visiting this build log





Seriously the log of the Young America by bitao7697 is stunning.


I worked on the handle design for the port side cupboard had a few trials to come close to what I was after.






I will start the kitchen area tomorrow once I put the needles down.




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6 minutes ago, michael mott said:

I started my new vocation today after visiting this build log

 Unfortunately one can't give a thumps up and a laugh emoji for the same post, Michael but your quote above is funny I don't care who you are. Your work is every bit as amazing, we're blessed to have some truly gifted artist/craftsman here in MSW of which you are one. 

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If I may be so bold as to presume to make another recommendation...


Such grab handles would not likely be seen on any well-found seagoing vessel. All accommodation lockers require positive latching mechanisms to keep them from flying open when the vessel heels in a seaway, especially when a locker's weighty contents are thrown against the door. (Magnets, spring clips, and spring-loaded detent balls are sometimes seen on power boats, but simply won't cut it on a sailing vessel that will routinely be thrashing around at a significant angle of heel.) Given the period, these may be a finger-hole through the door with an elbow latch behind it, so the the finger can be inserted to press down on a spring-loaded latch to unlatch the door, which would latch when pushed shut, or a "button knob" which was a knob with a button in the middle which, when pressed, released the spring-loaded latch. Less complex latches were also used, such at the usual barrel bolts and sliding or swinging bars.


Elbow catch for finger-hole access: 

Brass Rocker Catch | Classic Boat Supplies | Australia

Push-button knob locker latch (also available with a keyed locking mechanism.








Cabinet Locks | Locks | Cabin & Comfort | Toplicht




Alternate, larger wardrobe latch:


spindverschluss-schwer-messing-oder-verchromt | Toplicht




Or, in keeping with your "theme," there are flush spring catches with finger ring pulls:






See generally:  Toplicht (Hamburg) https://www.toplicht.de/en/shop/innenbeschlaege/schnappverschluss-und-schnaepper/?p=3 and Davey and Co. (London) http://davey.co.uk/pdf/interior_fittings.pdf my favorite go-to sources for fine traditional yacht fittings (and priced like Tiffany's jewelry, unfortunately.)




Edited by Bob Cleek
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2 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Such grab handles would not likely be seen on any well-found seagoing vessel.

Bob, so I'm guessing that Stirling and Sons would have probably not have liked your comment. That said they could have been cleverly disguised latch handles that needed a slight twist to open them, by having the top rotate a 1/2 inch or less sort of like a lever type handle only vertical.



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1 hour ago, michael mott said:

Bob, so I'm guessing that Stirling and Sons would have probably not have liked your comment. That said they could have been cleverly disguised latch handles that needed a slight twist to open them, by having the top rotate a 1/2 inch or less sort of like a lever type handle only vertical.



I'm sure I'd have driven Stirling and Sons batty if they were building her for me. I'd make sure they provided for ventilation in the locker doors as well, whether that were a decorative cut-out scroll sawed into the face of the door, a row of holes along the top edge, or a panel of bronze wire or woven cane mesh to make sure things in the locker didn't get all musty and moldy, too. 


True, a disguised swinging latch handle could be done, but from a stress distribution standpoint, that would probably be considered some pretty poor engineering. If one was thrown off balance by a wave while holding on to such a moveable handle, I'd expect it would be pretty easy to bend the shaft of the handle. I'd file that idea under "If it's such a good idea, how come nobody else thought of it before?" :D The options pictured in the Toplicht and Davey and Co. catalogs have been "state of the art" since at least the late 1800's. I've probably been aboard hundreds of fine (and not so fine) yachts over the years. I've never seen a disguised "grab and twist" locker handle. They do make one like this, though:









These are the sorts of details that the great designers like Nathaniel and L. Francis Herreshoff, Fife, Camper and Nicholson's, and J. Laurent Giles so enjoyed inventing, many of which became trademarks of the yachts they designed.


There's a lot of room for artistic license in modeling, so go for it! It's such an amazingly beautiful build. Wouldn't it be wonderful when it's done to be able to walk into one of the premier yards with it in hand and tell them, "Build me one just like it full size!" 

Parenthetically, my own "dream yacht," which will forever remain just that, in this life, at least, is Giles' Dyarchy, a cutter quite similar to your model. I have copies of all Giles' original drawings and a license to build one model of her. One of these years, I hope to do so. Your build log is plowing the hard soil ahead of me!






Your model's saloon reminds me of a very similar old British cutter I crewed on close to fifty years ago in a classic yacht race. As is often the case, the owners had no racing experience, and so recruited a bunch of us "young bucks" thinking we'd bring home the silver for them. As it wasn't our boat, we weren't particularly concerned about "babying" her. The owners lived aboard and, unbeknownst to us, the wife had a big bowl of soured milk covered with a dish towel out of which she was trying to make her own cheese. (I kid you not!) She'd stowed it chocked in with towels and whatever else on the pilot berth above and behind the saloon settee. As we were plowing along, we had to cross the wake of a large ship and, when we did, that bowl of curds and whey became airborne with quite a bit of velocity, flying across the saloon and coming to rest on the sole after bouncing off the base of the settee on the opposite side. It wasn't pretty, but the worst thing about for the crew was trying to keep a straight face while we continued to race along despite the cries of dismay from below! :D 


Edited by Bob Cleek
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