HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Maury S]

Chuck, Re. the horse shoes, straps, etc. What is "Laser board"?  Are you going to offer this as an extra?  Rapidly approaching a "Kit".

Maury

[bear]

Hi Chuck

 

No,you are not crazy for drilling all those holes in the Cheerful,you are just an exalted "Holely Man Builder".

 

As a tool and diemaker one of the first jobs I had as an apprentice was working on die's that punched holes into peg board. They would punch 3 rows of either 3/16" or 1/4" dia. holes on 1 " centers 48" or 72" wide for the hardboard sheets that you buy for your garage to hang tools on.

 

Each die had 102  1-1/4" dia. springs ,that I had to drill the holes for into the dieset 2-1/5" deep. So I have been drilling thousands of holes thru the 44 years that I was a diemaker plus now as a model maker. But now they are quite a bit smaller in diameter. I just sit down and listen to the TV or a CD and get into the land of drilling holes and seeing how close of a perfect pattern that I can make,and just how many holes without breaking a drill bit.

 

On my Royal Caroilne I have drilled over 8,000 holes now of .016 dia. without breaking a drill. And thats drilling into boxwood that has been coated with Testors Dullcote. Not a reacord for me,but just another week in model building.

 

From a fellow "Holely Man" retired Toolmaker

 

Keith from sunny Troutdale,Oregon-going to be 72 today here.

[KenW]

Where does one get a tube so small  (.7 mm O.D. and .5 mm I.D.)?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Yes these will eventually be made available.  I will include a small length of tubing in each package.

 

The tubes are from albion.  They are an english tube company and hobby shop.  But an American distributor is right here.  They are a fantastic company and the products as far as brass tube and rod etc is concerned.  You will not fine better.

 

http://store.spruebrothers.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=7&search=albion&show=100&page=1&brand=Albion%20Alloys

 

 

and a video on how to cut the micro tube can be found here

 

http://www.albionhobbies.com/precision-metals

[Chuck]

And to show how the port lids fit when installed.

 

 

The blank lids without hinges were positioned first and while they were in....I glued the hinges in without there little pins.   It was easier to line up the hinges visually that way.  At least for me.

 

They are actually working hinges as you can see.  I am pleased with how well the laser board worked for this application.  That is one less element I need to rely on photoetch for in the future.

 

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

I like the working hinges Chuck! Very nice!

[bear]

Hi Chuck

 

I am glade to see that you are using laserboard instead of PE. It's easy to work with,glue  and it holds paint. And after they are painted who's to know what they are made of. 

 

You must feel realy great about the laser cutter you now have and how you to creat new product to sell as you are building this ship and that you have the means to cut them. 

 

Keith

[Ian B]

love the port lids, sorry to be a pain but can you show the reverse side of the lid to see how you constructed it?

 

thanks

[Chuck]

Ian,  is this what you were looking for?  Let me know.

 

[Ian B]

spot on thanks

[KenW]

So - my current build has 10 gun ports with lids. Will you make a small 'kit' available of the hinge setups?

I know that I would be interested.

Cheers.

[Chuck]

I would love to offer these hinges to folks but my issue is I wouldnt know how wide to make the straps and how long to make the straps for each individual model.  I would have no problem cutting these for anyone as a custom order but first we must talk via PM so I am sure that I have created them the correct size and shape.

 

For example,  depending on the type of vessel and the period they could be drawn with many differnt contours.  Some narrow towards the bottom and then have a fancy diamond shape.  Some have a circular bottom.  Others are plain and straight like on cheerful.

 

I will make a post in the traders and dealers section with the criteria I would need to laser cut them correctly for folks rather than just making a bunch of generic hinges and guessing at the lengths and shape and widths.

 

See this link....

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10138-custom-laser-cut-gunport-hinges-from-syren-ship-model-company/

 

Chuck

[KenW]

Thanks.  We are going to make you a model kit company yet!

I will be in touch.

[Kurt Johnson]

Chuck, Would you be able to make a set of the Horseshoes and fish plates, reduced to 3/16. The hinge staps could just go along for the ride. Kurt

[Chuck]

Please everyone send me a PM rather than use my log for sales stuff please.   Or the traders and dealers section.  I can certainly make them but this is probably the correct size as this is a small cutter.  Scale is relative to the ship so you will need to give me measurements to be sure.  Hiegth and width.

 

Chuck

[Ian B]

One last question on the ports, how were they fastened shut was it hook and eyes or sliding bolts or something else on the inside..?

 

Thanks Ian

[Chuck]

Therte was a ring bolt inside and a line was tied to it.   This line was secured around a cleat inboard.

[cog]

Chuck,

 

Could you ..., Oeps

 

Love the details you've achieved with lasercut brass. As I can't compare it with similar etched parts I can't say it's better or worse, but hey, it looks awfully good

[KenW]

I've started framing the gun ports on my model and have a question. It seems that your top and bottom of the ports run parallel to the deck and the sides are parallel to the bulkheads. That would mean, on my Rattlesnake, that some of the gun ports are NOT a perfectly square. The angles aren't all 90 degrees. Is that correct? My deck rises at the bow at a steeper angle than your Cheerful. How will that affect the gun port lids? Or am I doing it all wrong?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

Correct!!!  Bottom of ports follow the run of the deck.  Sides are vertical and straight with teh frames.  Port lids will be the same.  Typical mistake seen on kits.  Not all ports are completely square at all.  Take a look at this original draft.  The red dashed square is at right angles.  Note how the port is not.   It follows the deck.

 

[KenW]

Thanks..

And also the run of the planks is not the same as the run of the port sills. And the final 'decision' is based on wheather or not it looks right. Not very objective.

Yes?

You have to have a lot of patience.

[captain_hook]

I'm following your build-log with great interest and appreciate your beautiful work so far. I'm in the progress to start a cutter POB project (HMC Sherbourne) soon (and maybe will build a Cheerful in the future) and was lucky to be one of the last customer to buy boxwoood from Mr. Hayes before he closed his store for new customers. However I wonder why the boxwood you've used for your project has mainly a warm yellow/cream color while the stripes I received are of a more rich brownish color. Is that an effect of watering and using wipe on poly, do you use a special type of boxwood (other than castillo) or differs the wood color according to age, quality etc.? I have no chance to get minwax wipe on poly here in germany due to airmail regulations and missing distibutors, It's not my intention to hijack the topic but a question I ask myself. Thanks for any answer.

[Chuck]

3d cheerful

 

 

[GLakie]

Pretty cool Chuck! Is that you doing that on a 3D program? If so, it's nice work. I was using Blender with Marmoset 1.8 for adding textures and setting up presentations. Great little program for that.

[RichardG]

Interesting, but I have to say your model is way, way, better  

 

Richard.

[Chuck]

No no....I didnt do this one.  But its very interesting.   This is all Greek to me.  I am fascinated by teh textures that are possible though.

 

Chuck

[GLakie]

It fun sometimes, but the learning curve can be intense, depending on the package you pick to learn from. I found Autodesk and the other expensive ones to be more difficult than the Open-Source Blender. Once I'm able to properly read ships plans and do a scratch build, Blender would be as handy to have as CAD. They are not ships, but I have pics of some of my work if you're interested. 

[tkay11]

Are the foremost mast shrouds served in either the 3D version or the model to come?

 

Tony

[Chuck]

Yes they will be served on the model.  They are not served on the 3d model.  That 3d model is not yet complete either.   It has many discrepencies and issues but I wanted to post it because it looks interesting.  Its just a cool looking graphic.

 

But the model will absolutely have served lines.

 

Chuck

[tkay11]

Thanks! I was just checking, Chuck, because I am slightly confused about when shrouds are served and when not in the building of the Sherbourne. Is it the case that the foremost shrouds are fully served whilst the others are only partly served? Or are they all fully served? And backstays?

 

I agree about the 3D modelling being not only very interesting but helpful too.

 

Tony