HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype

[Chuck]

Thank You guys.

 

Right you are Greg....Yes the outside shrouds are indeed square knots.  My bad for that omission  I will go back .and add that to the post to avoid confusion.

[druxey]

Looking lovely, Chuck. My own method of avoiding 'hourglassing' is to tie every tenth ratline first, then every fifth, then third and lastly the remaining alternate ones. You can see right away if things start to pull in and it's easy to correct.

 

Season's best wishes to you and the family.

[albert]

Great beautiful work.

[Chuck]

Thats a great  method Druxey...thank You for that.  And thank you all for the nice comments and likes. 

[Chuck]

Today I finished the standing rigging.

 

 

Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.

 

 

Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.

 

 

 

 

Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

[Jim Lad]

A very seamanlike job of rigging there, Chuck.

 

John

[Trussben]

Very Sweet Chuck, u are a master!

 

Ben

[druxey]

Looking very nice, Chuck.

[Erik W]

Chuck,

 

Looks good!  Thanks for photo 1.  It's nice to see the whole thing in one photo.  I'm having a hard time getting decent pictures of my hull only . . . seems like quite a challenge to get everything in one photo when masted and rigged!

 

Erik

[Nirvana]

Chuck,

Very nice..... but I have to say, I better not get involved with another project. The Admiral wouldn't be happy with me.

[albert]

Wonderful work.

[Mirabell61]

Today I finished the standing rigging.

 

standing rigfin.jpg

 

Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.

 

standing rigfin1.jpg

 

Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.

 

standing rigfin2.jpg

 

standing rigfin3.jpg

 

standing rigfin4.jpg

 

Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

 

Lovely work Chuck !

 

Nils

[Chuck]

Thanks guys...

 

Yes Erik it is tough to photograph.   My simple point and shoot digital really distorts the images.   It gives that slight "fish bowl" effect around the perimeter and bends the image.   I am going to see if one of the guys in my club has a better camera.  I will take some photos with it to see if it improves.  I do like Mikes pictures and will ask him to bring his camera to the next workshop session at my shop.  We meet every month at my place to work on models together.  Its really great fun.

[Jack12477]

Chuck. if your point and shoot camera has a optical zoom, try backing away from the model and use the zoom to fill the picture frame. Use the smallest f/stop (i.e aperature  for example 8 or 16) to keep you depth of field. Use a tripod or solid surface to support the camera. I have the same problem with the macro focus on my point & shoot.

 

Beautiful model !

Edited December 30, 2016 by Jack12477

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

but when you stay f-stop....these cameras are dumbed down now and they dont call it that in the settings.  What would it be?

[Jack12477]

Aperature and F/stop are synonymous terms for the same thing; as is the terms ISO and ASA . It's not so much the camera is dumbed down as much as it has taken over control from the photographer and made the photographer the dummy .

 

Somewhere on your camera is a dial with settings for different shooting modes or styles, example P, TV, AV, M and icons for Portrait, Scenery, Movies, etc; usually on the top of the camera. On this dial

 

Look for  P for Program mode,  AV for Aperature priority mode or TV for shutter priority mdoe (takes it off of AUTO mode);  these settings will allow you to manipulate the other settings via the display screen on back - not sure which camera you have so you may need to hunt around or dig out the manual. Set the camera to AV.  AV will allow you to set the camera at an specific Aperature and the camera will then choose the shutter speed depending on light level. (TV allows you to choose a specific shutter speed, e.g. 1/500, and the camera will choose the aperature.

 

When you select AV there should be a dial on the camera back that changes the aperature setting (pop-up window). 

 

You can also adjust the sensitivity (i.e ISO) settings to allow it to work in lower light levels.   The higher the number the smaller the lens opening, lower the number the bigger the lens opening (i.e diameter). There is also a setting for daylight and tungsten light source which affects the color of the picture.

 

If Mike is coming to your shop soon, have him walk you thru your camera's settings. Most of the P&S digital cameras can be "smart" cameras also. 

 

I have the Canon PowerShot SX130 as well as a Pentax DSLR.

 

Reminder - when done shooting photos of your model, return the camera to AUTO mode for any family stuff you want to shoot.

[John Cheevers]

Chuck,

Very nice piece of work. Everything is first rate.

 

John

[druxey]

Some photo-processing software (such as PhotoShop) has the ability to compensate for the specific lens you are using and to correct for barrel or other distortion issues.

[Chuck]

I will have to look into that......I am now using Corel Photo now and I imagine they have the same features.   Thanks

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck,

 

If by Corel Photo, you mean Corel Photo Paint, this plugin might fix the lens issues that you are having. I believe it works as a stand alone program or as a plugin. Of course, there is always Photoshop where its "Camera Raw" plugin can be set up to do it automatically.

 

http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/

 

Mike

Edited December 31, 2016 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

Mike

 

You will have to show me when you drop by the shop.   Today I am preparing to start the running rigging.  The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging.  The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook.  A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company.    It is ready to use right out of the package.  It has a 3/8" inside diameter.  They can be finicky things to make.

 

Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!!   No worry though.   I will be able to assemble one in place.

 

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

No problem, Chuck. Hopefully sometime this coming week if you have the time.

 

Mike

[Chuck]

The club is meeting on the 14th at my place but anytime will work...we can work on those shrouds while I do some rigging on my Cheerful too!!!  I set aside a traveler ring for you.

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks, Chuck! I'm hoping to have all of the deadeyes replaced sometime tomorrow. Will send you a PM.

 

Mike

[Erik W]

Those traveler rings look great Chuck!  I just placed an order. 

 

Erik

[KenW]

Can you make a traveler ring for those of us working on 1/64 scale?  I feel it should have a 3/16 inside diameter.

[alde]

Chuck, I just put an order in last night but didn't see the traveler rings. Can I add them to th order? I guess I will just order them and if you include them with my existing order you can just donate the difference to MSW.

[Chuck]

Al

 

Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.

 

This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 

 

 

[alde]

Amazing work Chuck. You guys that can work at this level are a real inspiration. Thanks for being so willing to share your knowledge with us newbies.

[RichardG]

Those traveler rings are really good. I'm still working out the rigging on my 1816 Revenue Cutter - I hope I need one  .

 

The rest of the rigging is also an inspiration. I will be continuing to follow and will returning again (and again) when I actually start.

 

Thanks for all you do here.

 

Richard.