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ChrisLBren

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Everything posted by ChrisLBren

  1. ChrisLBren
    Hey Augie, Looking good - from the photo - the stern windows look off - I could be wrong - but if you plan on using kit supplied lights - you may have issues. If its any encouragement - I really enjoyed planking my Confederacy - and had no issues using a jig to bend a hard wood and did not have to spill planks. In fact i think the amount of drop planks and stealers I used was identical to Chucks which i followed exactly. I did take my time - my only suggestion vs Chucks method - I built up the two layers of the wales along with the black strake first (since I was dying them black) before advancing further with hull planking - that way I avoided masking - other than at the stem. Have fun, Chris
  2. ChrisLBren
    Looking good Toni !
  3. ChrisLBren
    Looks wonderful Gaetan !
  4. ChrisLBren
    I will say this Bill - both Confederacy and Syren have some of the most comprehensive instructions you will find today and are excellent/accurate designs by Chuck Passaro - who generously offers tech support. I'd go with these over the Mamoli or Corel kits. But then again, build what you passionate about. Look forward to seeing a build log ! Best, Chris
  5. ChrisLBren
    Hi Bill, I'm currently scratch building the Confederacy using Chucks plans and instructions. I have built lets see Latinas Harvey, HMS Bounty, Panarts Royal Caroline, Corels Wappen Von Hamburg (unfinished) and Bob Hunts Fair American (also unfinished). With basic woodworking skills - all of these models are in the same range as far as difficulty - the main difference being length of build which can be a bear. Continued enthusiasm, dedication and effort towards a modeling subject in my opinion are the biggest challenges as far as ship modeling is concerned. Thats why there are so many unfinished builds (including two of my own staring at me in my office) Confederacy is clocking in as my longest build (4 years next month) - but then again I'm scratching it. As a kit should take less than half this amount of time. Hope this helps - good luck in your selection, Chris
  6. ChrisLBren
    Really cool Rusty !
  7. ChrisLBren
    Hey Joe, I'm buying Volume 2 sooner rather than later and possibly the Le Gros Ventre plans enlarged to 1/36 for my next build. Chris
  8. ChrisLBren
    I'm blown away by this book (and overwhelmed). This book totally helps me decipher the set of Boudriots 74 Gun Ship Plans in French I bought last year on this site. In conjunction with my recent purchases of the "Le Gros Ventre" and the "Commerce De Marseille" monographs (and the rumored purchase of Frolichs "Art of Ship Modeling" by my wife for my Bday next week) - I'm well on my way!
  9. ChrisLBren
    Yeah thats also an option - I dont own a drill press and probably should.
  10. ChrisLBren
    Actually looking at the Shop Fox Spindle Sander on Amazon - sells for around 140 dollars. Anyone use this one ? I think between a spindle and a Byrnes Sander should make assembling frames easier. (especially with my crappy scroll sawing skills)
  11. ChrisLBren
    Hey Group, I want to pick up one of these - think it will come in handy when sanding the inside of frames - but am wondering if they are too powerful for this sort of use. Does one exist (maybe be another great tool for Jim Byrnes to develop) that would work for my purposes ? I also want to use this to sand/shape my headrails on Confederacy. Would I be better off just picking up on Ebay one of the Dremel drill press attachments for my variable speed Dremel and clamping it to my work bench ? Thanks, Chris
  12. ChrisLBren
    Nice work G - Ill be following this one - hoping to get to the "Big Belly" next year
  13. ChrisLBren
    Pear bends very easily - on my Confederacy - I built the wales and dyed them on the model - using a demarcation line and Tamiya tape - I was successful not having it bleed onto the stem. I then planked the rest of my model afterwards.
  14. ChrisLBren
    Looks sweet Ben !
  15. ChrisLBren
    Go with Fiebings Black Shoe dye on Swiss Pear for your wales - it takes the dye better than boxwood. I use 4 coats - they dry instantly then buff with an old t shirt. I then top coat with Watcos Danish Oil.
  16. ChrisLBren
    Hi Clare Im interested in the first three books - please send me a PM Chris
  17. ChrisLBren
    Congrats John - shes a beauty !!!!
  18. ChrisLBren
    Unless your name is Chuck - I wouldn't attempt these with anything other than a hardwood
  19. ChrisLBren
    Nice work Toni !
  20. ChrisLBren
    Thanks guys - actually this is the third one on this side - the other side I'm on number two ! Good thing I'm in no hurry to finish...
  21. ChrisLBren
    I would think so Aldo - if i get some time ill run an experiment for you with a spare 1/8 by 1/16 strip soaking and using a jig Chris
  22. ChrisLBren
    This phase is taking forever (then again my time in the shop is limited). It takes a good amount of time to cut out and sand a rail that fits your model to spec and then this happens - the boxwood crumbles as you are carving the molding. And im using a hard wood... The scrap box is growing......
  23. ChrisLBren
    I dunno Aldo - if it were me I would use Boxwood exclusively. In my opinion its so much easier to work with hardwoods and Costello can easily be edge bent if you use a jig, soak the planks and let them dry.
  24. ChrisLBren
    Thanks Mark ! The rails are my carving - the wolves and the filagree are Chucks resin copies painted to look like boxwood. I cut them out of his resin trailboards and added them to my trailboards I cut to spec out of 1/32nd swiss pear on my model - then dyed with Fiebings. Again nice to be able to rely on Chucks beautiful carvings for this part of the build.
  25. ChrisLBren
    Thanks ! Trail boards are built - need to finish the rails with their grooves/moldings

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