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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. Nicely done Alan. When do you start taking orders?
  2. Okay, so here's the photos that I didn't get to take last night. I'm still experimenting with the photography, but the pics seem to be getting better. First up, I made a "handle" from copper wire and looped it through the gunwales to provide a handhold while painting. It also served as a holding post for the vice while the paint dried: Here is the current state of play with painting. Probably just one or two clear coats of Dull Cote for protection now: Meanwhile, progress with the Cutters (well, one of them anyway): Here's the keel: And with frames placed in the building board and frame "plugs" inserted (as per the Launch): And without the Plug: Finally, here's a couple of shots of both the Pinnace and Cutter Plugs for comparison. They are really quite different hull forms: The Admiral is giving me "the look" again, so that's it for now!!!
  3. Thanks everyone for all the kind comments and also for all the "likes". mtdoramike - your model is a similar scale to this one, maybe an inch or two longer, so you should have no problem with a similar case if you choose to go down this route. Mine is 1200mm long (about 48inches) and is made from 4.5mm thick Perspex. I would have liked to have used 6mm for added rigidity, but that would have added 50% more to the already expensive cost. Short progress report on the ship's boats. I have been slowly but surely painting the external hull of the Pinnace - just applied the ninth coat. I'm thinking maybe one more coat and then a final protective coat of Dull Cote. Following others advice, I've been using very thin coats of paint. I'm using a Humbrol enamel thinned 50% with Thinner. While tedious, it does seem to improve the appearance. While watching the paint dry, I've been progressing the framing for the two 25ft Cutters. I finished cutting the keels for both today, and have cleaned up all the frames. This took quite some effort. Releasing the spot-glued frames from their inner supports required the judicious use of the isopropyl alcohol - judicious because the frames are laminated and too heavy a hand with the IPA and I might just have twice as many frames! Once separated and dry, the remaining glue residue had to be cleaned off using a needle file and a very light touch - these things are REALLY fragile. Only broke two. Once cleaned up, I started fitting the frames into the build boards. One set is complete and the other ready to fit. The Admiral kicked me out of the shipyard before I could finish the second set. Something about needing to go to sleep as tomorrow is a work day! Consequently, I didn't get time to take some pictures. Sorry Sjors I'll try to get some taken tomorrow and post them up then.
  4. I've recently been thinking along very similar lines Remco. Great to see your ideas brought to fruition - looks very ship shape.
  5. Just lovely Toni. A real pleasure to watch this build growing.
  6. Well done on the re-do Michael. I'll bet you're much happier with this version.
  7. If you're even thinking about re-doing Michael, then I would go ahead and do so. If you don't, it will continue to bug you for the rest of the build. And it will give you the opportunity to try it with the grain oriented correctly. Go on.........you know you want to..............
  8. Hi David, At the risk of pushing a point, you could have a crack at scratch building the Cutters. It's really not that difficult. Anyway, enough said. Your build, your decisions. Your ship looks excellent as it is.
  9. Nice fixes Michael, until ............. oops! A timely reminder about understanding the properties of wood and the importance of grain direction. I'm sure this one will stick with you! You're doing a great job here Michael. Don't let theses minor setbacks get you down. Mistakes are how we learn best. Of course, if it's someone else's mistakes, then all the better!
  10. Hi Sherry, Just found this thread via your San Felipe log. I'm afraid I can add precisely nothing to the knowledge base here, but I'm fascinated by the process and will follow your learning journey with great interest. Good luck!
  11. Dave, I'm sharin' your pain brother - particularly the "expensive" part!!!!
  12. Ah the challenges of model ship building! I look forward to seeing your solution(s) to your current dilemma Michael.
  13. Ah, so I gather that the "Taj Ma Chook" is all completed now! Good to hear you also had a positive experience with Cornwall Model Boats - that certainly reflects my own experience. If the figures aren't the right size for this build, there's always the next one, or the next, or............... Planking seems to be going well. Don't forget that steam can be really useful for bending planks in addition to soaking. Any old steam iron will do - just not the one you are about to press your nice new white shirt with!
  14. I know how that feels Nigel - you are in good company on that aspect! Do your tutorial when you have both the time and the inclination - most of us will be patient !
  15. Very nice indeed Augie. As I recall, Remco did a rather magnificent job of the brickwork for the stove on his Swan class - there may be a few tips to pick up there as well.
  16. Looking good Sjors. Don't try and keep up to Mobbsie's pace - those "gentlemen of leisure" have it too easy! We workers will just have to plod along at our own pace. Luckily, it's not a race, and as long as we're enjoying the journey, it doesn't matter when we finish.
  17. Lovely pictures of some outstanding work Bob. She really does look magnificent.
  18. Ship's Boats continued: Not a lot of time in the shipyard this weekend, but a little progress to report. I've been working on the gratings for the Pinnace. These are made from 1/32" x1/32" Boxwood stock that Jeff Hayes (Hobbymill) very kindly milled for me with notches, so that task was made a lot easier (thanks Jeff ). The gratings are quite a tricky shape, especially the stern grating. They are framed in in Pear wood of the same dimensions. I also made up a small bow deck, that will go in front of the foremost thwart. This was made from the same stock as the footwaling. I've also been furthering my quest for improved photography.... Here's a few pics of the parts: And here's the "fingernail shot" to show the size of the bow grating: This shows the two gratings loosely in place, with the monster hand for overall scale: And here's an overall shot with all parts in place: I've also prepared the stock for the thwarts. These will be made from Pear wood trimmed with Boxwood (the opposite colour combo to the gratings), much the same as I did with the Launch. However, I decided that I'd better paint the exterior of the hull before moving on to fitting out the interior any further. At this stage, I've just applied a coat of white Gesso as an undercoat. I've gotta say, I've become a big fan of this stuff - it makes subsequent coats of paint go on a whole lot easier. More pics once painting is complete - hopefully by next weekend.
  19. Hi Vivian, Whichever you decide, I can't wait to see your venture into full scratch building.
  20. That is one beautiful deck Nigel - well done indeed!!! As for treenailing, I'm sure it will look fantastic whichever way you choose. As long as you keep them to correct scale size (which I know you will anyway) then I think they will be fine. You've gone to such trouble already to make "authentic" changes/additions, I guess I'd be leaning towards a "yes" vote on their inclusion.
  21. A tricky operation beautifully executed Danny. Spyglass - there's no reason the spot gluing technique shouldn't work with CA, using acetone as your de bonding agent. I still wouldn't use CA unless I absolutely had to though.
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