gjdale
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Everything posted by gjdale
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Nice to see your log started John. Regarding the "copper" plates, if you go with the supplied green wood tiles, give them a light sand after attaching, then paint with copper paint, then lightly rub back the paint in some areas so the green shows through, it will give a nice aged patina effect. This is what i did on my build. Of course, you could opt to use real copper tiles, or copper tape instead. Captain's choice here. Good luck with your build. I'll follow along and help out where I can (if needed/wanted). -
Nice to see you using that jig Sjors, but credit where credit is due please - that jig originally came from EdT, posted in his Victory log. It's good to see it popping up again - I think Robbyn (Shaz) used it after I pointed her in that direction too. It really does make the shroud work easier and gives a nice straight line of deadeyes. Yours are looking great my friend.
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I once worked with a particularly good (female) Marine engineer, who was once described in a performance report as, "a most unusual Engineer, with almost human-like qualities"
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Congratulations Mick on a job well done. You can be justifiably proud of your handiwork. I hope you are going to put her in some form of display case to keep the dust off her.
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Thanks John, Glad to know you're enjoying the ride with me.
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I've gotta agree with the others Robert - very nicely done, and worth the frustration for the result. Think of it as adding to your learning experience, and you have the scrap box to prove it!
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Brian, I think you'll find yourself in good company on this one. I know that a lot of folks here at MSW have read and enjoyed the series - twice in my own case.
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Very nice Sherry. Looking forward to seeing the next layer of planking go on.
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Didn't think it would take you long Anja! He's been a very naughty boy - perhaps he should be banished to the cupboard under the stairs for a while!
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I don't know what to say, other than just stunning! Beautiful work Johann.
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Very nicely done Anja. I would never have picked the difference. And being a gentleman, I wouldn't have told even if I had been able to pick it.
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Sjors, With your lovely wife moderating this site and reading everything you post, you are either very brave or very...........now, what's the word I'm looking for here? I'm sure someone will help me out!
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Then there's "Taylor's Irish Red", illustrated in a later photo of pump blanks! Nice work on the pumps Mark. Gotta love the mill for repeatability.
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Ah, I stand corrected. Thanks Mark.
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Nice work on the molding Timmo - looks at least as good as the brass, and will probably be easier to paint too! That beer sounds interesting - not sure that I'd manage more than one if serious work in the shipyard is required.
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Hi Robbyn, Futtock staves are horizontal wooden battens that are secured to the shrouds below the tops, roughly at the level of the hounds. The futtock shrouds are secured to these. (The futtock shrouds are the bottom ends of your topmast shrouds if you like - they secure the lower deadeyes for the topmast shrouds).
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Hi Augie, I don't put myself forward as any sort of expert, but that was the information I gathered in preparing my own rigging. I was guided primarily by Longridge's book in this regard, and I'm pretty sure Antscherl says something similar in TFFM vol 4. The advice is also repeated in my Warrior Practicum, and the primary source behind that is Steel. So, I guess you could say it was common practice. I seem to recall reading on someone else's log (might have been Blue Ensign), that the reason was to allow these shrouds a greater degree of adjustment to suit the point of sailing, but I couldn't swear to that. No further work in my own shipyard this weekend I'm afraid. The honey-do list was rather long this week, and I had to spend a fair bit of time helping the Admiral to plan our forthcoming (September) O/S holiday. Oh well, there's always next weekend.........
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Robbyn, Great work! To answer your questions, The ratlines should continue up to the futtock staves (which should be installed first). These will also help to keep the shrouds "spread" a little. What are you doing wrong? I suggest that for the first and last shroud on each row, the clove hitch shoul be tied so that the "tails" point inwards. This will give you a neater finish when you snip the ends off. Also, the ratlines don't usually go across all of the shrouds for the first (lower) six rows or the last (upper) six rows. The first and last shrouds are omitted - can't remember the reason. Also, another tip (if I haven't given it to you already). Tie every fourth ratline row first, then come back and do the ones half way between, then come back and do the remaining. This will help prevent your shrouds from developing an hour glass shape. Good luck!
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Hi Meredith, Forgive me if this is "sucking eggs" territory, but just wanted to check that you are using the draw plate in the correct way. The stock should be fed into the draw plate from the "back" of the plate (ie the unnumbered side). Is the way you are using it? If not, you may find better results trying this.
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Great job Mick. She looks superb! I can't believe how quickly you've completed this model. Excellent work! A shame that you can't post a build of your Tram here as well
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Congratulations on achieving that milestone Toni - she's looking fantastic.
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Hi Aldo, Great work so far. This looks to be be quite a challenge, which I'm absolutely sure you'll master in no time. Good to see you back and posting again my friend.
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Thanks Anja, I hadn't seen that before - fascinating!
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Nice to see you back in the shop Remco - I've missed your lovely build.
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