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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. After finnishing the fore and main mast, i started with the mast top of the mizzen mast. There is a choice with or without a mast top. I chose to build a mast top, but smaller and simpler than the 2 previous ones. A little too much removed from the fore castle So, repair and repainting. The modified version (almost correct) The 3 masts and the bowsprit dry fitted in place (and someone is taking a nap 😴) My loyal assistant, on the lookout in the mast top The wooden parts of the masts are now ready, the masts are now first further finished (bolts and other metalwork). And then think about how and where the deadeyes are attached to the mast tops. Thanks for following
  2. A masterpiece. This was a pleasure to follow. And very educational. congrats 👍
  3. windows certainly not silver. I've seen some kind of light blue used on this forum once. this gave a good result. but the choice is yours
  4. There were one-piece masts. made of tall straight trees. And there were made masts (parts from several sawn trees) Made masts are with rope (to keep the pieces together) one-piece masts not
  5. Hello And
  6. Indeed a nice start. I would try to see first if the parts of the hull and decks fit properly. And even glue them together if necessary Otherwise, if they dont fit properly you may have to touch up the paint later on . Airfix parts usually fit well, But you never know
  7. Between the main and mizzen masts on the upper deck is a good place. red bay.pdf ( if the link doesn't work , page 11 of the Pelican build)
  8. The Billings Vasa has its shortcomings, but you will enjoy building it. These links are very helpful http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/vasa1628
  9. Great work on this small scale. Ever thought of making the eyebolts yourself?
  10. A galleon made by Luponero. I follow with great interest 👍
  11. Next try Sewn sails are indeed out of scale at 1/110. Back to the 1st method with paper tissue. This time not kept in shape with CA glue but with diluted PVA glue. And the furled sails are easier than the cluwed sails First footropes were applied. A metal wire first folded into shape Then the sail and the ropes. i think this methode looks better and fits more this scale. Maybe these should be cut shorter The "how to build" will follow later (if it becomes this method). Constructive ideas are still welcome. And, if someting is not right, please say so. Military modeling : years of experience. Sails, furled or cluwed, are unexplored territory for me.
  12. I found this technique on you tube. This is the first test of the third attempt. The intention is to think about necessary improvements. And yes, the thread is indeed too thick. And now i know what clewed up sails are 👍
  13. A small update on the furled sails. Attempt 1 (and 2) with different paper tissue and CA glue. Wasn't what it was supposed to be. I got good results with it in military modeling, but for furled sails, unsuitable. Also discovered that the brown color of the yards did not match this model, so they are painted black now. Attempt 3 sails sewn from cloth. 1 test model done. This attempt has worked out reasonably well, but not quite what it should be. To be continued, thanks for following.
  14. Perhaps the Vasa model is a good example of this setup. I think : If the fore mast is far enough back then the bowsprit can be placed in the center and therefore also rest on the stempost http://www.wasadream.com/Index/indexenglish.html http://www.wasadream.com/photoswasa/154.jpg
  15. Welcome to MSW
  16. Actually, yes and no. On almost all ships with the fore mast in front of the fore castle it is attached to the bow (in a hole in the beakhead knee). On ships with the fore mast in the fore castle you see all the possibilities. Rules, habits, or maybe they had the same problem at the shipyard every now and then and they just did what suited them best. In this era, information is sometimes unclear. But When the fore mast is so far forward, she has less support in the ship than when she is in the fore castle. Perhaps the strength of the fore mast was not trusted to absorb the extra forces of the forestay of the main mast. If I still got my lessons in mechanics right The setup with the foremast in front of the fore castle can only absorb forces in the forward direction (2 support points). The setup with the foremast in the castle can (should) absorb forces in both directions (multiple support points). Who knows??
  17. This resulted in the same problem. But the solution is near. not completely in order yet but on the right track.
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