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BANYAN

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  1. BANYAN
    Another small update. After retrying the decals I had two problem; first the colour of the decals just do not show up against the brown (a known issue apparently but I thought I would try), and after trying that I found the wheel had 'roughened' again. I put the latter issue down to using the water on acrylic paint/gloss when trying to apply the decals. The photo show the wheel having been redone - please remember the rim is only 1mm wide and 12mm in diameter (OD). I have decided that even PE will be difficult at this scale (to etch that is) so we have decided to leave this small detail off. i think there is enough detail to make the steering arrangement look OK? Yep - I know - a real 'cop out'. If I get time I may revisit this when I do the PE for the brass work on the skylights. The following photos show the companing and steering position dry fitted. In hindsight, I think we opted for a slightly too large rear bench but it will have flag lockers fitted on top of it either side of the wheel and we needed sufficient width to allow for that. The red 'pull' cord is for igniting the powder via the adapted gunlock on the Common Service Lifebuoy on the transom - this then provided the smoke and/or the flare (night) in the upper pan of the lifebuoy. nThe black handle is a 'twist to release' for the lifebuoy. In later times, these two controls were combined. One remaining issue is to determine what the most probable configuration for the mizzen boom crutch. The boom extends beyond the transom, and in the photograph of the crew on the quarterdeck, it shows the boom, when in its stowed position, lies to 'port' of the ensign staff. Unfortunately, as can be seen from the earlier photo of the wheel, it is impossible to make out the configuration of the crutch support. At the moment I am tempted to have it secured to the transom using the roughtree timber immediately to the left of the centreline and using the back edge of the bench as one of the vertical supports (a hole drilled in the bench). What I cannot decide for this configuration, is whether any supporting struts would have been required or simply a supporting upper bracket near the top of the roughtree timber. The next outboard roughtree timber (with the notch in the rail) is for one of the rear davit arms. An alternative is have the crutch with tripod style support configuration, free standing in front of the bench but I think that would be in the way of the helm (not that the crutch would be there when the wheel was manned). The issue with the first configuration is that the crutch would be in the way of working the boat; but, again the boom, and therefore the crutch, would have had to be moved out of the way before working the boat anyway. Opinions and suggestions eagerly sought cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Druxey and many thanks for looking in and your suggestion. Unfortunately, as shown in my less than adequate drawing below, the wheel did not have a brass ring on the rim, but rather a series of plates as evidenced in the photo (this is a highly zoomed extract of a photo of some of the Officers and Crew on the Quarterdeck taken in 1868). The drawing shows the graphic I have used for my decals also. I will remember that technique as for my Endeavour I used a twin blade cutter (knife) in a compass to cut some thin brass (shim) which proved problematic. To explain the shape of the standard I have adopted, I based the overall shape on the requirement to have a carving of the coat of arms carved into it. This is the most probable shape that serves and is similar to the standard as shown in a contemporary model of a wheel and standard held by the NMM. Unfortunately the standard cannot be made out in the photo. I have bit the bullet so to speak and removed the old paint from the wheel and repainted it so that I have a new flat surface. I will have one more go at the decas before giving up on them. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Nice production run Dave; they look good. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Thanks for the comments Eberhard, Carl and Steven, and for the likes folks - appreciated. Actually -- I had given some thought to the circular skylights Eberhard, and they have me cowering in the corner with the thought of attacking these. The current plan is to use an acrylic/perspex rod shaped on the lathe as the core then add a wood veneer to the side (with cutouts) and PE grills. Not sure yet whether to use a long strip for the side grills and put that on the inside of the veneer or attempt to put them on individually - at this scale that is a scary thought The upper conical grill will be drawn up and made as PE in a fan shape that will allow it to form the cone when rolled. In foreseeing the need, I recently made enquiries, including on MSW, for someone that does PE. As this will be a small job, I am not sure the costs would warrant third party development etc so I am looking at trying this myself sometime in the future (PE that is). Overnight I decided to have another go at the decals to see what I can get out of it. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Glad to hear that you have resolved (within yourself) which way top step the masts Steven; that will allow you to move on with other work. The banking of the oars solution looks very workable with the mock-up looking very good - great idea. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Another small update: I have progressed the wheel and standard a little further having painted the brass wheel. The paint to the eye looks smooth but it is very uneven when photographer so close up (noting the rim is only 1mm wide, and the wheel 14mm tip to tip). The paint is burnt sienna acrylic with a glaze made from varnish and wood stain. It looks pretty close to the wod used in the standard. One of the photos also shows all the parts ready to be assembled; including some decals I made. The decals were a dismal failure though as against the brown they just don't show up. I think I will have to paint the brass plates onto the rim of the wheel after all With my shaky hands they won't look too flash! Work in progress so to speak. I am not sure yet whether to try and further smooth the paint on the wheel; as i said - to the eye it looks OK. In the meantime the main companion has been completed; including the ironwork supporting the crutch for the main boom. I have included a close up extract from the quarterdeck photo as a comparison for what we have made. The legs supporting the crutch look a little oversize but these are less than 1mm diameter so near impossible for my fat hands to get smaller unfortunately - again the close-up photography makes it look rougher than it looks to the eye (the ironwork). cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice work Danny, if one didn't know better you would never know this was card. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    very neat solution Michael; well executed. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Nice work Rob, those spreaders look good! As Michael said; great to see you back at the modelling desk. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    You've done a great job on those boats mate; they look really good. I am still debating about the locations/stowage of the boats but I have left them as is until I finally get about finishing the others. At this stage I think I will leave them as they are and place the other two on rods besides the ship to simulate them being in the water Cheating I know; but a lot easier. Your build is looking great; look forward to updates. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Really nice work there Michael; lovely metalsmithing! cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Vinnie, I cannot be positive here as Bounty was smaller than Endeavour, but it looks like this is the lead block (288) for the Maintopmast preventer stay. The stay led through this block down to the deck as you have surmised. In Endeavour, this indeed di pass down through the lubbers hole to the port side and had a sister block turned into the tail end. The sister block is shaped a bit like a violin body with two single sheaves within one over the other with the larger sheave to the top. This allowed another single sheave block, rigged with a hook that was attached to an eyebolt in the deck to the port aft side of the foremast, to be rigged to form the main topmast preventer stay tackle which was used to tension the preventer stay. The Main stay was rigged in similar fashion with the lead block on the foremast under the top (at the start of the cheeks/hound) and led down to an eyebolt on the deck to the stbd aft side of the mast. The tail or running end of the tackle was usually secured back onto the tackle proper once tensioned. A similar arrangement existed for the mizzen stay and preventer stay with the blocks attached on the mainmast. Hope that helps a bit? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Nice details - love the oil stained decks, that is taking your weathering to extremes cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Beautiful work - a pleasure to view this build. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Great to see you back Remco. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    My condolences to Pam and yourself. Best wishes for a full recovery; and yep, we all need time out - good luck in finding that 'stress-free' holiday site. regards Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Thanks guys. I don't think I will resort to the paint brush at this scale Carl. The rim is only 1mm wide and 12mm in diameter; I think the chances of error due to shaky hands is too great. A challenge is one thing; ability is a whole different matter I think I have to agree Eberhard, decals sound the best way to go. Off to find some decal paper. Thanks for the feedback on the glazes; I was on the right track cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Nice to see you back in the workshop and hopefully no further recurrences of the virus Eberhard. That metal work is superb! These will add some great detail to your build. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Three young rugby players in the household? my boys turned to the dark side (Aussie Rules). Rowing and Rugby, that must keep you busy so how do you find the time for all these models (especially at the rate you complete them ) cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Thanks again for the feedback Eberhard, Druxey and Carl. Thanks also to the additional likes; appreciate people looking in. Just to be sure I am not heading off the path; could you please explain what a 'glaze' is please? My initial thoughts were of a thinned lacquer/varnish but this is probably wrong? I was going to colour this with the same stain I used on the wood. Eberhard, WRT to the brass badges/plates on the rim of the wheel, a friend is going to help me experiment with PE this from a very thin brass plate (shim) as a complete circle connected via very thin fret which will be cut away once placed - worth a try I think? If this works we hope to do a ;ace-like etch of the outline of the carvings to glue to the standard - if the PE is thin enough we hope this may give the impression of a carving (at that scale) when painted - can only hope? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    I hope all is well John? She'll still be there when you are ready to progress. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi again Eberhard and very many thanks yet again for your great ideas. The wheel was indeed specified (and reported) as being mahogany so going with a solid colour and decals is a great idea. Now to find a decal maker - or more likely, I'll have a go myself at making the decals Victoria's wheel was specified as 'double' but all evidence points to it being single (as evidenced in the photo also). When I was looking I found a 3D product on Shapeways you may consider if your idea doesn't work out for you - have a look at the double wheel on this page as an example https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F72+Ships&s=0 That said, having witnessed what you achieve in that micro-mill and lathes of yours I am sure you will work something out. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Those funnels look like they have been there the whole time - nice repair work. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Denis, Eberhard and Druxey, and for all the likes. Thanks for the tips on faux-wood; much appreciate those. I will investigate the book and online and practice on some scrap to get something I like. The wheel had brass badges/small plates on it possibly on the rim joints? Not sure how to emulate these yet but will try a couple of ideas I have on the scrap as suggested. I have also not done the carving of a kangaroo and emu that was on the lower curved section of the fore standard. At this scale I think I would have no chance as I have not done any carving at all, and I do not want to ruin what I have done. Helmsman HMCSS Victoria (resized).tif If you look closely at the attached cropped image showing the wheel, you can see the brass plates I refer to. The only info I have of the carving is that of a description stating that there was a carving of these on the standard but nothing else. As this design was the forerunner of our national crest I am 'assuming' (I know dangerous) that there would have been a shield also. I base this on the fact that a shield is shown on the bows of the boats in the profile photo of the 'Victoria', and if a shield was placed there, it possibly was included on the standard (see attached). cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Hi Michael, I have tried Vallejo primer also but resorted to Tamiya rattle/spray can for most jobs. The Vallejo primers work okay on some surfaces but the trick is to really let them cure (I have found more than 48 hours) but if you scratch it you will find it hard to sand/fair the edges as it wants to peel off. I also found it does not like brass (PE or other). The Vallejo paints though are generally very good. cheers Pat

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