Gregory

With the extra leisure time on my hands I decided to break out another kit from my stash to have more to do while waiting for the glue to dry on my Resolution. Mamoli/Dusek Gretel This will be my 2nd time around with this kit. For some reason I am attracted to Mamoli kits. even though they have their shortcomings compared to some of the other manufacturers. My modeling goal is more of an art piece rather than an historically correct masterpiece, and since some Mamoli kits seem rather whimsical in some respects, that may be why I am attracted to them. I was attracted to Gretel because it looked small and simple, and the sort of thing that would make a nice gift for a family member. I have a sister-in-law who was bugging me for a ship model, so that was what happened to the first kit; which I enjoyed building and led me to do it again. I have some pics in the Gallery as seen in my signature. This is the new Dusek resurrection of the kit, and it includes some features that myself and others might find as an improvement over the original Mamoli kits. Mamoli says that Gretel is based on a Chapman drawing, and the lines confirm that. Mamoli has made their own changes to some details, but not to the detriment of the model as far as I’m concerned. The changes mostly consist of simplifying some of the ornate work. Duplicating that Chapman counter would be an interesting and challenging endeavor. (... Hmmm, Laser engraving might be an option. ) Here is an overview of the kit contents. The relatively small number of parts compared to some of the monster kits we see, is refreshing in my opinion. I just realize I didn't include a picture of the wood package, but it is a typical bundle of sticks and looks to be of good quality. I will report any problems if I encounter any. Dusek has added a lot of laser cut parts, and they are a better fit than the stamped parts that Mamoli used to include. Dusek has added separate laser cut stem, keel and stern post, whereas Mamoli used to have you create those parts by applying veneer to the one piece backbone. I think the separate parts make for a better look, but the way Dusek has designed them is presenting some possible challenges. More on that later. Dusek has also replaced most of the cast ornamentation that was in the old Mamoli kit with some laser engraved pieces. The wood is dark, and the details are there, but don’t show up as well in person, as they do in this picture. I’m going to have to think about how to bring out the detail. I don’t like to paint, but that may be part of the solution. There are a few etched brass parts, which should make for a better finish in some areas than we had with the original kit. I struggle to build out of the box, because I’m always seeing ways to do things differently. That may have a lot to do with why it takes me so long to complete a kit. I am going to do my best to build this out of the box for the most part, because I think that helps others see that the kit should be all that you need to end up with a nice model. However, I know I won’t be able to resist changing some details here and there, which I will point out when it happens. I am actually a few hours into the build, so I will post an update soon.

Good information. With all said and done, I have that kit in my stash, and will have to think about making that work when I get around to building it.

What VTHokiEE is saying, is what I mentioned up thread. The chisel may not work so well with MDF, but sand paper and files should do it. If you have a rotary tool, a little drum sander would help if used carefully.

Just out of curiosity, what do you see as the problem with cutting the bulkheads?

Time to bite the bullet and share what we all know: It's not always pretty. My first planking is just about ready for the 2nd finishing layer. I don't like to use paint except in certain circumstances, which I will bring up later when I paint something. With that in mind, I am using a dark mahogany stain to accent the gun ports. Still have some details to work out with the bow gunwales. Fabricating some knight heads, not part of the kit plans, but based on the Chapelle drawings. Meanwhile, I am working on other details while the glue dries.. The kit includes a so-so cast transom, but it will not fit my vision for this model. Again, I go to the Chapelle drawings for Ferret/Sharke. These are my laser cut frames that I will incorporate into a cherry transom. I don't think I will be attempting any detailed carving on this model, but will accent the shape of the transom and window frames with some moldings. With a lot of time on my hands, I will hopefully have more updates soon.

I know the bar is set pretty high here, but if I were building that kit, my goal would be more of a piece of folk art. I would use a lot of stain and varnish to get a wood look. No paint, except for black in the masting and spars. I think the metal details you showed would go good as is, except for something to knock the shine off. Some nice scale rope would look nice rather than the " thread " usually included in kits. Adding the yards to the masts in the proper manner gets my vote also.. Just my vision, and I respect that you might have other ideas.

It might make a nice gift for your mother-in-law. In which case, I would build it as is.. While certainly not up to the standards of MSW, it would make a nice mantle piece that would get a lot of ooohs and aaahs from the average observer..

Looking through several build logs, it looks like they are using 3/16 planks. They would certainly offer more flexibility when it comes to tapering.

That's kind of like saying the only thing worrying you about building a house is sawing and nailing..😄

The poll is only asking for individual experience with brands you have had experience with. If you are not familiar with a brand, you do not respond to questions regarding that brand. The poll results are a reflection of those responses. A failure to respond to a question, affects the results accordingly. While it may be a little more work, getting info on a particular kit means looking at the build log data base, and in the build logs themselves. While there are not very many, you can get a better idea of a particular kit in the review forum. Hopefully, more members will submit reviews; even more so when they have a bad experience.

There is no option to up vote, or down vote a particular kit. Anyone can start their own poll if they are looking for other opinions.

Did you complete the poll?

The poll is intended to rate the the experience we have with the various manufacturers. It would balloon out of control if it were a poll about our experience with every kit. You can get a pretty good idea of how someone feels about a particular kit by looking at build logs, or checking for a review.

You can also glue on pieces of soft wood like basswood, then sand back to shape.

What is your source? What is the context? It sounds like some type of laminating technique to reduce warping. However, I've never heard it mentioned here before.

I've used these blades from Amazon with very good results. The kerf is a bit more than I would like, but they are a fraction of the cost of Proxxon or Micromark blades. They have 10mm arbor. Avenger AV-34024-5 Combination cut saw Blade I found this on Amazon UK. Looks like it could be the same thing unlabled. ZhuJinSheng Cutting Disk 1pcs Out Diameter 85mm 24T/36T Mini Circular Saw Blade Wood Cutting Blade

The rigging of the model in the picture is a disaster in more ways than one.. I believe the rigging with the Model Expo plans is pretty reliable.

Unless you are going to be ripping balsa planks, none of those cheap saws are going to be much good. I have had one of these: MicroLux Mini Tilt Arbor Table Saw for about 20 years, and it can cut planks with a decent blade and finely adjustable rip fence. At that price one would do to well spend an extra hundred or so for the Byrnes. I keep thinking about getting one myself, but I haven't got into scratch building yet and my little saw does everything I need to do right now.

Here is a an image from Mondfeld: He says it is an 18th century warship. The Hanna might not be as robust, but you could extrapolate down to fewer parts.

Is it invisible? 😄

You mentioned not wanting to sand the plywood, but if you sanded it, then covered with veneer, you might have something that would work..

Just a suggestion: When you want to complement the builder, can you do it without re-posting all the images again. It makes it harder to follow the updates when there are so many duplicate pictures.

You should sand out a ' bearding line, so the keel and stern post stand proud of the ' back bone ', that some call the false keel. This illustration shows a chisel being used, but with the MDF in this kit, you should be able to do most of it with sanding tools. On a double planked hull, a true rabbet is more of a challenge. The kit design assumes you will fit the final planking flush with the keel and stem to give the appearance of a Rabbet. Another option is to fit some very small ( 1 x 1 mm ) stock along the bottom and front of the backbone as seen here, in Chuck's Cheerful. This creates a slot that serves as a rabbet. However you have to consider the thickness of both layers of planking.

I'm pretty sure Mamoli didn't offer pre-made sails with this kit. Looking at the sails available at Dusek, I do not see any for the Mamoli line.

Looking at the deadeye face on. how should the grain run?