glbarlow

A good start with a new way. The planning and marking took most of the morning, then there was the Super Bowl so work stopped and beer was consumed.

So here’s where I am - starboard complete.  I’m pleased with the result.

To be clear, I take no credit for this method. I researched a new way of planking that fit my style of working (fast, without battens and without pins, using CA) and found it in Chuck Passaro’s method. I followed the .pdf he has posted on Model Ship World at Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf. There are also some videos including a recording of Chuck at a workshop - in that video he does things much simpler maybe less precise than in the .pdf that gets the same result, I used those, no french curves for me. As it is it took me several days to get this small ship planked.

I’ve always done something similar with measuring and determining where to begin tapering, but it was a lot more ad-hoc. That part of my process has worked, I’m built some nice ships doing it. What is really different and game-changing for me is his plank bending method.  I’m not going to go through it all in detail, you can read the .pdf, but I want to share a bit of it in hopes that a beginner might be inspired enough to learn more. The headline is no soaking and no twisting to fit.

First there is taking the time to do the planning - using tick strips to take measurements at each bulkhead, counting the number of strips at the widest point and converting that to the ships hull at bow and stern. Chuck used fan strip, I prefer a calculator.  If it’s seven 4mm strips at midships, using the tick strips to get distance I determined it has to become 2.5mm at the bow. This is tedious work, but worth it. Because it was here I learned my first error in my old ways. I was starting the taper too soon, I learned through measuring in detail that I didn’t need to taper (on this particular hull, it will obviously vary) until midway between bulkhead 2 and 3, and not at all to the stern. That got me a much more even and consistent look.

Dividing the hull in half and determining the “line” I wanted the planks to follow (3 or 4 bands for a bigger model) allowed me to be more precise and get a cleaner look instead of ad-hoc figuring it out as I went. These strips are hanging there just for the photo, I'm a little more precise doing the actual measurements.

All well and good, but here’s the fun part - quick and easy “bending the wrong way” using my personal plank bending station. Consisting of a raised board three clamps, three pieces of thin wood - two for preventing clamp marks and one to set the point of the curve, and one inexpensive steam travel iron.

NOTE: The plank in this photo is being accidentally held upside down, plank bending is bending down to turn up on the bow, so to install it's upside down shallow U not as shown here.  Placing the strip on the hull at the beginning of the taper point and bending it to the bow with my fingers (no glue) produces a curve, the apex of that curve is the bending point. Mark it and put that center on the middle of the clamp then gently pull down and clamp on both sides. I broke only one plank, the strip wood had more elasticity than I would have thought. I DID NOT soak the strips in water. I put my finger in water and ran it over the wood then “ironed” the strip for several seconds. Let it cool for a minute and you have a curved plank.

I then just kept track of my measurements, I did redo them a few times on the lower half, 4mm planks aren’t a perfect fit so I ripped two to 3mm each to fill the gap (and not have one super skinny). It still was a lot easier adjusting for the final pieces. Most importantly the planks, while it looks odd in a two dimensional photo, fit flush to the hull and its double curve by adding the downward bend in the tapered plank.  Again, no soaking, no bending no twisting.  I used drops of CA, first gluing it tight at the bow, then just 1-2 bulkheads at a time. I had roughed up the 1st planking with 100 grit sandpaper to help with adherence.

Here I will admit my major error, or the error the instructions led me to do - that’s attaching the sternpost when I built the frame. It is  so much easier at the stern to not install that until after the second planking. I know this, I blame it on the three year layoff since my last build. It wasn’t a show-stopper, it just made fitting the lower band of planks harder since they had to be cut to fit precisely at the stern post. On my next model I’ll not install the sternpost until after all the planking is done. 

On to the next step…

I’ve completed the planking above the wales using boxwood.  Why, because I like Boxwood and I had some. It’s a remarkable wood, so easy to work and bend into place.

These are actually from my first attempt at ripping my own out of a plank. I read a few tutorials, got some input from reliable sources and went at it with my Byrnes saw (with the right blade). My first couple weren’t going that well with the blade binding and the wood backing up. I got the hang of it though. They were a tad thick, but they worked out great on the boat. [NOTE: Thanks to Chuck, Rusty, and Jim Byrnes who all offered advice and help I can do this pretty well now. That I hadn't in all my prior models is because I bashed them all with wood from Jeff at Hobbymill. He did provided high quality wood already cut so I didn't have to. Sadly Jeff is no longer in business. I'm ripping like crazy for my current Cheerful build.]

I mentioned before I attach the gunport patterns I score each side of the tabs above the deck. I also only glue at the top point and the bottom. I elected to break off the three tabs on each side that were obstructing my cutting out gun ports electing to leave the rest in until I complete the first planking. After all the cutting and filing and cutting and filing and cutting and filing and being thankful this is a 12 gun ship, not the Vanguard [the model not Chris' company 🙂 ], I did some basic sanding (leaving the rest and needed filling until the 2nd planking is complete. I put a coat of satin poly just to keep the boxwood clean.

I’ve also spent a LOT of time fidldling and pondering how to finish up the stern. I have the last piece painted and ready to attach but I’m going to leave it off until I finish sanding the 2nd planking.  I’m still not sure about the fashion piece on the sides, the part included with the model is a disappointing.  More on all that later.

So the moment has arrived to learn a new method of planking following Chuck’s tutorials and videos. First step is lining off the hull, I made pencil marks where the bulkheads are and dividing the hull into two bands using artist tape.  Bulkhead 4 is marked as the widest part of the ship. Now to make the tick marks…  At this point this thing looks a bit beat up.  It’ll all come together.

Who knows how this is going to turn out.  If there is never another entry in this log you’ll know it went badly.

After seeing my sorrowful job of first planking I decided to take a step back and re-learn planking with some practice and tutorials.  Lady Nelson will become a test bed for a new technique, well new for me.

NOTE: [This was originally on the "other" forum, I wanted to promote Vanguard there]. 

I just received the HMS Speedy from Vanguard Models, Chris Watton’s starting his own company and this is one of the first two kits out.  It’s a really great looking kit, I recommend checking his website out at https://vanguardmodels.co.uk So now Nelson is just to relearn and reinvent my skills in preparation. 

As I always do I plan mounting my model at the very beginning, drilling the holes in the keel before installing the first bulkhead.  Normally I use a small gauge threaded machine screw, but the Nelson is so small there is no screw to fit the inside 3mm Keel, so I’m using 1.5mm brass wire I’ll epoxy into the base of the ship and the mounting board. I glue scrap MDF either side of the drilled hole and make sure it goes through the keel into the MDF by at least a few mm. I did all the trial fitting last night and happy with how it will eventually sit. Measure 4 times, drill once is the method here.

The first planking is ugly, but its smooth and will provide the necessary base for the 2nd planking. I really should care more but really all I want to do is cover the ship. ... If I say that enough times I may start believing it.

So off to the tutorials and practice.  No idea how my other ships came out looking as good as they do, must have been luck.

On 5/30/2020 at 12:07 AM, Jonny 007 said:

Looking forward to seeing the rest of your log

Thanks for checking in, I hope you'll find it interesting as I go on.

First of many oops moments. I just notice I put the deck on “upside down." Normally this doesn’t matter but with the offset bowsprit the mount on the deck is also offset, so the mounting holes are on the wrong side.

No problem, I used a square off piece of MDF to draw lines (no ruler would fit) to get the alignment, then the eventual cross bar to locate the accurate distance

Drill a new hole with the best sized bit and open up with my trusty blade.  One thing all modelers know is it isn’t all going to be perfect.  Adapt, improvise, and overcome to quote Clint Eastwood.

I’ve become a big fan of a simple set of riffler files, not sure why I had never discovered these before. This particular one allowed me to square up the corners of the new hole ver precisely and a dry fit of that eventual bowsprit saddle and laying the dowel on top, alls right with the world again.

Oh, and I put a X over the now wrong hole so I remember to plank over it when the time comes.  The quality of the stem wood and another oops moment when I snapped it in two led to the decision to paint it black after the repair along with the sternpost (the part that won’t be be painted white below the waterline.  It’s walnut, but not very good walnut.  I’m a bit concerned about the soft wood when I move into deck furniture.

I’ll make it work, and off we go. [NOTE: Actually as you'll see it wouldn't work so I got to practice my scratch building, the model is better for it]

Your work with the mill is amazing.  I like doing the bits, belfry and uprights and I assume cat heads. That justifies it for me. I try to carve something decent on those with files and blades, if you can rack those out with a mill I think I’m in.  
 

Having the mill how did you learn how to use it?  Should I hop across the pond and come to your house for lessons:-)

On 5/29/2020 at 12:33 PM, DelF said:

I spend most of my money on wine, whiskey, and ship modelling; the rest I just waste.

That’s hilarious. I just have to add camera equipment to that and I’m right there with you. 

So there will be no Flirt build logs, James has set the bar too high 😂✅🤣

I’m totally stealing the blue paint. Then Flirt will somewhat match my Pegasus. 

Thank you. 
 

I have 400 grit wrapped on a small block of MDF cut by the Byrnes saw with three of the 4 edges attached with double sided tape for flat surfaces and edges. For softening edges I jus just a small piece free handing. 
 

It is really red but I like it for this model. No admiralty red ochre paint this time. 

I’m still first on the list for the Shipwright version of Flirt, just let me know when I can order. 

[NOTE: OK, that's a start of transferring my log to MSW.  In case you're wondering there are a total of 24 posts.] I'm sure you all can't wait to see them all. Lady Nelson is a basic kit, but as I said it was perfect for me to see if I still wanted to build models after almost 4 years past since the last one. Turns out I did and I do...

First planking is complete and stern transom installed.  I followed the modeler’s code for first planking, cover the ship with wood and shape it like a boat no matter what it takes.  Frankly my work was a bit frightful. Apparently planking is not like riding a bicycle, but ultimately it doesn’t matter, the hull is even and now smooth, ready for the next step.

Speaking of which; I’ve always been “ok” at the second planking but it’s time to step up my game. I’ve just ordered the Vanguard Models (Chris Watton’s new company) HMS Speedy. He also has the HM Alert, but its basically bigger, better, improved copy of the Lady Nelson so it wouldn’t be special .

So to prepare for that model I will use Lady Nelson to try a new planking technique, Chuck Passaro’s plank bending. I built my “plank bending station” today and started practicing. I need to go back and rewatch his YouTube videos but I think its going to work out “bending wood the wrong way”.  I’m a cyno guy when it comes to planking, this method allows me to continue to do that. I have no patience for pins or time for planking with PVA (sorry purists). [NOTE: See even over there I was talking about Chuck, I didn't know at the time how popular he is on that other forum. LOL]

Here’s my old method, a glass of water and a little soak…I'm rinsing out this glass after first having a beer or two.

Anyway, next up is the 2nd planking. I’ll start that once I get comfortable with ironing wood. After lots of mulling it over I’ve decided the paint scheme will be black and white.  Swiss Pear inner bulwarks, Boxwood above the wale, Ebony wale, and the kit walnut below the wale.  Not much of that will show after painting white below the water line but I decided I needed something to tie together the other walnut kit fittings on the boat (I almost went cherry but its just one to many colors.

So far not much interest in my little log, I guess I’m typing to myself.  I talk to myself a lot so typing to myself is the next step I suppose.  Off I go. [NOTE: this is in regard to that other forum where I first published it, it didn't get any better. I just kept typing notes to myself...like I'm doing here...]

And it continues:

I installed the false deck, again with white glue. Rubber bands were a lot easier to glue to the curve of the bulkheads than the pinning with nails called for in the instructions

Next up is gluing the gunport patterns prior to the first planking.  Soaking them in water for about 30 minutes is essential.  Be careful not to soak to long though, its ply and could warp and/or delaminate.  This has been a monster and frustrating task on my other models, notably Pegasus and Vanguard, but here on the Lady Nelson it was an easy alignment and fit.

A way to keep it easy is to use a pattern board to shape them. I use tracing paper to trace one side of the bow from the plans, cut that out and transfer to a board then use a jig saw to cut a replica of the bow into the board.  Bend the properly soaked pattern (gently, bend too quick if the pattern isn’t wet enough it will split) then clamp it until it dries.  With Vanguard I had to use a dozen or so  large clamps, with the Lady Nelson one small clamp and rubber bands did nicely.

I just glue (still with white glue, cyan sets to fast and wouldn’t allow time to do the necessary alignment between the pattern and the top of each bulkhead and stanchion at the stern (part 12, I saved the two middle stanchions for later, I’d just break them off if I added them now as the instructions ask). I just glue and clamp as I go. Unlike prior models I did both sides completely instead of having to take it a section at a time, the benefit of a small model.

So all this work and I have this little boat. My 3 year old grandson said he liked it as it was and could he play with it now 😕

So then it begins, framing the keel. This work is the same on every plank on bulkhead model, in this case I just have fewer and smaller pieces to assemble.

I first sanded a rabbet on the bottom and stern of the keel before installing the bow, keel and stern boards.  The instructions don’t mention this, but it comes in handy to slot in the planks for a better fit. Most large models make a bigger deal out of it. I’ve just always done it and saw no reason not to here. [NOTE: Here the long layoff showed; I forgot NOT to attach the sternpost until the planking was completed. It still works, just make it that much harder. Don't put on the sternpost kids.]

I did find a misprint on the plans. There are a couple of these typos where part numbers don’t match. In the case of the bulkheads the plans incorrectly label 2 and 3.  It’s quickly obviously it’s wrong, here a simple reminder of the importance of checking and dry fitting to prevent a catastrophic mistake if you're too quick to glue.

The instruction recommended and I did do initial fairing on each of the bulkheads 1-3 and 7-9. There are two keys here, don’t overdo it and fair half of the bulkhead. Remove the laser burn to improve adhesion of the planks but leave an edge using the laser burn as a guide facing midships from both bow and stern, otherwise the resulting hull will be off shape and likely uneven from one side to the other. I dry fitted them and laid a batten from one to the next to get a general idea of how much to sand, that seemed to work out.

Having completed that I then scored each bulkhead tab at the in and outside. After the second planking these tabs are removed, this makes that later process easier. Of course score being the operative word, cut too much and they’ll break off while installing the gun port pattern.

I found these little squaring tools somewhere on some site, sorry I don’t remember where [NOTE: Woodpeckers or Amazon has them now].  They are perfect for ensuring square frames, but I still double check by measuring and using my various squares.

I use Admiralty Models white glue for this work and take it slow.  I start from the front. part 1, and the back, part 8, saving the stern frame, 9, for last. Install and wait 30-45 minutes to dry. [Note: I started Cheerful from the middle and worked out both directions, go figure.]

Good time to watch 30 minute TV shows between frames. The key is not to rush it.

So when you’re not sure where you want to start and feel a bit weighed down by the decision then of course you start with the end and build anchors

After opening the kit I had to do something to get back on the horse with 3 years since my last build. Scratch building the anchors, replacing the boring metal pieces provided in the kit was a good afternoon’s work. I started with a scrap piece from the 3mm walnut parts board and used my Byrnes Saw and Sander along with a collection of sanding tools to shape it up. I used heavy black paper [NOTE: now I would use artist black masking tape] cut in narrow strips to complete the anchors. I finish everything on the model with water based Minwax Polycrylic in Clear Semi-Gloss. I’ have and tried all the other stuff, I always come back to this simple way to protect and finish my work. [Note: Unless I'm building Cheerful or as I did on Fair American using Wipe On Poly, next level stuff]

I have a love-hate relationship with sanding, its an integral part of building with wood but not always the most fun thing to do. Aside from the Byrnes Sander I have The True Sander, it is one of my most used tools. Aside from standard sanding blocks I’ve also created my own various sized sanders by covering scrap wood with different sandpaper grades using double sided tape. I leave 3 edges open allowing me to manage what I sand and more importantly what I don’t in small tight areas. I’ll end up changing the sandpaper a couple of times during a build, they all get used a lot. I also have some I’ve cut for a specific and often one-time use based on the model and circumstance. I share this because they are easy to make and helpful to have.

Next comes the work. Or is it work really…

I'm going to slowly re-create my build log on Lady Nelson I published on another forum. I've left that forum never to return so I'd like to have an active version of the build log I completed there.  The rest of this post and this log is my posting my off-line copy of that build log.  I hope perhaps it might help someone new to modeling. For me this simple kit was a reintroduction after and extended absence.  I'll throw a few [NOTES] in it as I go, the log was started originally in January 2020. So here goes:

-------------------

I started all my ship builds with a purpose; I learned the process with the AVS practicum, developed technique and accuracy with the Granado, painted with exotic woods to achieve color differentiation with the fully framed Fair American, achieved what I could of historical accuracy with Pegasus with plans from the Maritime museum and Antscherl's books, built a “74” with Vanguard. After 8 models I was done, finishing the last in 2017.

Ultimately though I missed the building part so I recently purchased the Lady Nelson. It’s a small ship but the process is the same, it’s a nice model to spend time with, without spending a LONG time building it.

My detailed build logs for the Fair American, Pegasus, and Granado were lost due to infamous system crash on Model Ship World, though the somewhat abbreviated Vanguard log is still there. Sadly I wasn’t smart enough to keep offline copies then.

So, in the hopes of providing some entertainment, help with building models, or demonstrating how not too depending on your viewpoint here’s my log for the Amati Lady Nelson. 

The kit, despite the small craft, is another well designed Victory model series designed by Chris Watton, although he informs me it was 30 years ago. The material, parts, plans, are all of good quality. I [then] only build from kits by Amati or Caldercraft, I am confident I’ll have a good start when I open the box. [NOTE: I'm since a bigger fan of Vanguard Models and Syren Ship Model company. My current build is the HM Cutter Cheerful, link below.]

I’ve reached the point where I’m far more dependent on the plans than instructions. That’s good in this case because the plans are well done and the instructions are surprisingly brief. I’m not sure a beginning modeler would get what they need with them, so then the importance of a website like Model Ship World to seek additional help.

Without being overly critical the MDF in my kit is a bit soft and the walnut laser cut part sheets are too brittle, I’ve already broken and repaired a few parts despite being careful in removing them from the sheets. I would still buy the kit, maybe my wasn’t stored in the best place at the store I purchased it from. It doesn’t deter my recommendation for Amati Victory series models.

I have a kit and now a job to do, who says retirement is boring.

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

What type do you use?

As about as inexpensive as it goes, it does the very limited job I ask of it.  I buy cans of compressed air, no elaborate air compressor for me. It's enough to do the little required for a model.

It takes a little practice to get the flow right, and the paint thinned correctly, so practice on something before you try it.  

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Company-Basic-Spray/dp/B0006MZPLG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1GXMS90X4AJ0A&dchild=1&keywords=badger+airbrush&qid=1590807942&sprefix=badger+air%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4

I use an airbrush on cannon, but other PE I just paint or blacken, works just fine.  But then again an airbrush is pretty handy and doesn't cost much - other than buying the aerosol cans.

2 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

I see all the glue blemishes and paint blemishes

You see it all, others don't see anything but nice work.

20 hours ago, DelF said:

you can still teach me a thing or two.

I've resisted getting a mill of any sort, you're convincing me I 'need' one - although I have cut such things with my Byrnes saw and the sliding table the mill, and your technique, makes it look so much easier.  So you like the Proxxon version? Too bad Jim Byrnes doesn't produce a mill, I'd buy that in a heart beat.

I'm not doing a build log now, I'm just going to create one post ... See Derek's.... 🙂

I did a little side project, putting together the winch sub-assembly from Chuck’s https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com site. This is one of several I have as part of my Cheerful semi-scratch build. This model with the plans, starter kit, monograph, and these sub-assemblies, make entry into scratch building so much easier an experience.

The winch comes in a little baggy of finely lasered parts, mine is in boxwood. I printed the simple to follow instructions from the website and commenced to sand and file away.

The instructions say to bevel the many panels (5 barrels and obviously 8 to each barrel) so that only a brown edge is showing. Not surprisingly my last one was better than the first. The big key is when the instructions say only a little edge is showing, it means a very little tiny barely visible bit of brown edge. This one still needed more filing.

With everything assembled, it’s time to paint using the Golden Cadium Red I’ve selected for the model. This is in a bottle not a tube, but I still mixed it at about 3 parts paint to one part water. This gives it an almost ‘red water’ consistency. I found three coats were enough to make me happy. I painted a scrap piece and after three it started looking a little too thick.

I use Admiralty Paint Ironwood Black for the components that are, well, wood meant to look like iron, (so that’s how they got the name…) on a real winch. This is great paint, it took only one coat, any more and it will look more like paint and less like metal. As a side note, more of this paint is one of the items in my lost order from the UK.

I’m a big fan of 400 grit sandpaper, I use it to soften everything to make it feel “warmer” and “worn.” With 400 grit as opposed to even 320 there is no danger of losing shape or too much material.  I also did a little shaping at the top, not too much, its a winch…

Because I’m using very thin paint I did have to remove all the laser char otherwise it would show through. That was a bit challenging with the end pieces. So here I'm clearly not done.

My hemostats come in handy to hold things while I’m painting, easy here since I could use a 1/16th stick to hold them.

The final dry-fit. It’s really not this shiny, just the bright light and my iPhone thinking too much.

The final step is glue it all together, snip off the rod running through it and add the red caps to the ends. I’m not going to do that until I’m ready to mount it on the ship - a long long time from now - just in case any adjustments are needed on the fit to the deck. So off it all goes to join the rudder and sternpost on a cabinet shelf I keep free of everything but a soft cloth bottom and future parts of my current model. I’m sure a few cannon will find their way to that shelf before they’re ready to mount. I like little projects like this to break up the build process.

So now back to the hull.

The masts are looking nice!

Fine work on the deck. Very impressive skills on the consistency of your joggling cuts!

Did you make all the scarp and joggling cuts with chisels?