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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. In the Pitt Rivers Museum online catalog: http://objects.prm.ox.ac.uk/pages/PRMUID26082.html Click on any image to enlarge it. Photos are, I believe, normally able to be ordered.
  2. I don't believe that fids were ever made of wood.
  3. Off to a flying start! This looks to be an interesting project in several ways.
  4. Willkommen! Yes, the rabbit hole of fine tools is one that one can dive deep down into, as well as that of ship models. Each is a great excuse for the other.
  5. I suspect that the fid would have a beveled bottom surface. To make the slot for the fid other than vertical would invite a split in the wood. Mast stops would probably have been at right angles to the spar. The eyes of the stays would be able to bend sufficiently, as in other vessels.
  6. Very nice result.I like that you showed the interior mechanism as you have. It would make a great item to show in a full diorama!
  7. No of course it isn't, Rob! I'm sorry if I gave the impression that it was. These are representative vessel types to illustrate various points of practical shipbuilding. They are all generic; titled 'Brig', 'Ship', 'Pilot Boat', etc. However, all have relatively vertical stems.
  8. It's funny how, sometimes, the things we look forward to with dread turn out to be not such a big deal after all. It's the pieces that one thinks will be easy that trip one up!
  9. Oh, all right, then. Three examples from McKay's The Practical Shipbuilder, 1839
  10. 'White stuff' or 'black stuff' was used prior to copper plating. As for plank seams, if your model hull is planked, the seams will 'read' through paint sooner or later anyway!
  11. If it's of any help, the draughts in McKay's book all show almost vertical stems.
  12. I agree that the 'wiggly thingies' (great technical term!) were for spits at varying distances from the heat source.
  13. The extension lines (the ones between the ends of a measured dimension) at the right end of the drawing are not separated from the drawing itself. That is the origin of the confusion.
  14. On a side note, can anyone identify the item forward of the tiller (photo above) that appears like a diagonal crest? Another oddity is the wheel almost against the bulkhead. How was it connected to the rudder? One would need to steer the wheel facing aft! Was this a later addition?
  15. It's a great set to own, and easy to clean. It does not have the vulnerable long needle of conventional airbrushes. Steve had good taste.
  16. A real milestone, Steven! Well done at sticking to it until all the oarsmen were complete. You just crossed the finish line of the marathon... or am I mixing my metaph-oars - I mean metaphors?
  17. Craig: Your schematic sketch is about right. Open so that the tall rudderhead can pass through (which is unusual), but perhaps there is a rudder coat around to prevent water coming up or going down and a hinged lid on the aft part, like the one just above in post #12.
  18. Just catching up on your build, JD. It looks like it's going well. You can sometimes 'rescue' pin-holes - depending on specie of wood - by wetting the hole with water and a touch of dilute white glue. The moisture expands the fibers, and the glue closes things up.
  19. Ha! So you are back with a vengeance, Clare. Your sail construction technique looks quite original, so I'm looking forward to how it will come together when complete. The idea of making a scratch-built model and placing it beside the unassembled kit is interesting as well.
  20. Beautifully executed. I think what is bugging you is the size of the ball on the end of the anchor stock. It only needs to be large enough so that the stock won't slip through the shank. Otherwise, it looks very, very convincing.
  21. Best wishes for a successful surgery, Alan. I recall seeing a 'take apart' model of a mast. I thought perhaps it was at Greenwich, but can find no photo of it. It must have been on display at the Science Museum, Kensington, before they rolled up the ship model section and put it away.
  22. You have a great attitude! Part of the problem you have is that the hull form is a very full one with round bow. This is the most tricky shape to cover neatly, but it can be done. As you've discovered, there's lots of advice available here.
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