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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. The simple answer is Steel is for English ships (he was contemporary with them) and Boudriot (who did historical) is French. Two different methods involved. So for an English ship, use Steel. For French ships (unless they were captured and the plans are from the NMM) use Boudriot. Disclaimer: This is my perception and I could be wrong. If I am, please correct me.
  2. It may not help with the build but a good first reference book (and usually inexpensive) is Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. Well illustrated and gives a pretty good overview of the ships and details. It's not 100% accurate however.
  3. Madrone seems to be pricey because of the yield... finding long straight pieces of sufficient diameter. Also, it needs a long, slow period to cure out or else it splits and warps. I've read where that some harvestor actually bury the madrone for a year to slow the curing process. On the other hand, I have about 3/4's of a cord of the stuff for firewood that's not much useful for anything else.
  4. Have a look here: http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/corel-ship-kits.html?limit=207 I thinki Corel might have something.
  5. Mobbsie, Very well done and looking great. To change the title, go back to the very first post and hit edit. You should be able to change the title there.
  6. This build is taking my breath from me. All I can utter is "wow"!!!!!!!
  7. My bad. I hadn't been able to see their product listing for so long, I thought they were gone.
  8. Pity I haven't done more kits...only 3. Sadly, the one kit that I really loved was the Billings Wasa and it's apparently no longer available. Excellent and historically accurate plans but crappy wood and quality control.. <sigh.
  9. Welcome to MSW, Michael. We're all here to build, to learn, and most of us are here to help when we can. I hope to see your log.
  10. That's looking super nice, Chuck. I take it the gold dragon(?) on the oar is also lasercut or is it molded?
  11. As I recall, many of the Russian builders use this. I'm not sure where they get it in the small quantities we use. A quick Google shows some available in a 850 ml can.
  12. My opinion....they look great. The problem is macro which isn't "normal viewing distance".
  13. I don't know if this will help, but there's a scratch build of center section here:
  14. Welcome to MSW, Seren. I hope you'll consider opening a build log so we can follow along. You have set a high bar for yourself and I hope the research and build go well.
  15. Count me in too... This paper modeling is definitely a different critter than plastic or wood. Oh... and happy birthday, Danny.
  16. Hello Marc,
  17. I can only comment on the Micromark... There's some issues such as setting the thickness is a hit-and-miss proposition. If you take off too much wood at once, it will bog so it'll need more passes. To overcome this, I thickness (or try to) schedule such that if I'm gong for 1/16" wood, then I do all of the different types at once. with some patience and practice, the results can be good. If I were buying again, I'd go for the Byrnes. As for sleeves... look online via Google. There's lots of sleeves out there and many available in the size needed for less cash.
  18. Nice work, Dave. Those frames pass the extreme distance test (from my place to yours) and the camera test.
  19. No such animal to my knowledge. It goes with the hobby as i've redone some bits, including whole hulls. It's painful but the redos usually bring about immense satisfaction.
  20. Here's a link with a bunch of scales/rulers
  21. Looks great from here, Rusty. Have fun with the thimbles.
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