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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Have some fun with them. BTW, if you ever connect just the LED to a battery, unless they are the ones with the built in limiting resistor, the LED will blow like super fast. The batteries will see it as a dead short and dump max amps just like through a wire.
  2. mtaylor
    Sweet, Denis.
  3. mtaylor
    I'd take out the planks and salvage what I could from them. Then put the opening where it belongs. Or... cut the frame.....
  4. mtaylor
    A very fitting barge for the dignitaries that used it, I'd say. The craftsmanship is incredible.
  5. mtaylor
    Mike, Isn't the epoxy harder than the wood? I've not heard using that before. I have heard of using the finish (poly, for example) or diluted white glue and sawdust for gap and ding filling.
  6. mtaylor
    That last picture...looking up from the deck to the shrouds and the ratlines.. magnificent.
  7. mtaylor
    Beautiful work, Håkan. I can see why they didn't want to wait on the table.
  8. mtaylor
    That is a great story about a great man, Nenad. I like the family picture because you can see the love.
  9. mtaylor
    Greg, If you'll go back here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=401762 The first photo shows the new rudder and the three pieces that make it up on the left. The old rudder is on the right. It's not hard to make but fiddly as it's pretty much scroll saw work or jeweler's saw and then careful finessing to get the joints to match.
  10. mtaylor
    You will need a limiting resistor. How many or what values do you have handy? I'd start with 100 ohms and go down. Too much current and you'll fry the LED's. I'd wire in parallel if you can. That way if one dies, the rest don't. As for connecting... if you solder, low power (10W maybe) and a heat sink between the joint and the LED. A small forcep, clamping tweezer, or alligator clip will work well. Make sure that it's not acid core solder. I don't see a mA rating on the label... if you can find that and use the battery voltage (again series or parallel on the batteries) you can Google for a "LED resistance calculator" that will help you with the resistance.
  11. mtaylor
    Now I don't feel so bad when I look at my overflowing scrap box. Sweet work, Druxey.
  12. mtaylor
    Gary, Your last paragraph says it all. To that, I'll: Just do it. And if there's something you're not happy with, re-do it.
  13. mtaylor
    I do understand perfectly what you're doing and why. By saying that, I think I need to see Dr. Per also.
  14. mtaylor
    Thanks for the coments and the "likes". Greg, the lines on the rudder are actually glue with paint pigment in it to simulated the tarred cloth that was used. The lines on the hull planking are some strange reaction I got when crack filling. But at galloping horse speed and distance it looks pretty good. I'm working on the coat now, Carl. Testing some stains and colors and trying to sort out the shape that needs to be cut out.
  15. mtaylor
    George, Go to EdT's Niaid log. I think early on he shows how to make them using wood and brass. And no.. I haven't made any..... yet. Jack, Looking sweet on the planking. Looks like you got just barely enough left to finish if you want. I do wish the kit makers would put in "extra" wood to allow for errors and also to give the builder a sense of reassurance.
  16. mtaylor
    That's "playin' around"???? Looks great to me.
  17. mtaylor
    Update.... Rudder temporarily installed (the blue tape keeps it from falling off). I'll hit the hull with some Wipe-on-Poly and start working on the rudder coat.
  18. mtaylor
    Joe got me thinking. Some builders will do full sails and blowing in the wind... except for the fore and main course which will be brailed up as they would be during battle. Frolich in his "The Art of Ship Modeling" shows one where the yards and sails are set as to keep the ship stopped in place while loading and/or unloading the ship's boats. A variety of ways....
  19. mtaylor
    Thanks for the likes and the comments. Still working on the rudder. One more cudgeon iron and then some wipe on poly since I had to fill holes from the first attempt and I want the epoxy to stick. I'll do some progress pictures at that point. Mobbsie, if any of us ever figures out how not keep making the same mistakes, we could make a fortune. "Soon" is relative, Denis. I'd really like to get the galleries, some decorations and the head area on the exterior done and also the orlop (berth?) deck and gundeck in first. <fingers crossed> Nah.. you wouldn't really. Lots of broken bits of wood, cut-offs. On the plus side, the scrap makes excellent kindling for the fireplace.
  20. mtaylor
    You are off to a flying start, Mario. I find it interesting that the keel is laminated. I think this might help reduce warpage.
  21. mtaylor
    Sails are definitely an option and it's your option. There's lots of choices and yes, many builders do put on sails. Go to the Kit Build area and search on "Victory"... there's all varieties of methods. As a primer, go to the article database on masts and sails here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php There's a primer by John Tilley. It is an old article so not all the links work, however.
  22. mtaylor
    Kev, Planking lengths on deck would have been based on what was available at the time in the shipyard. Usually around 26-30 feet per plank. As for butt-shifts, have a look here in the article database: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php There's one titled "Simple Butt-Shift Deck Planking".
  23. mtaylor
    Wonderful work on the anchor, Bill.
  24. mtaylor
    Lovely work as always John. I do hope those health issues are only minor...
  25. mtaylor
    All I can do is shake my head and pick my jaw up from the floor....

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