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HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC


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Thanks gents, I'll leave the talented to the scratch builders, I have several of Jean Boudriot's books (who recently passed), that is talent.

 

I use Tamiya rattle cans mostly for the big stuff, then washes and drybrushing. My next project is huge and I think the time has come to buy an airbrush.

Been thinking the same about an airbrush, but our room dictates i hav eto build on the living room table, so I have to be as tidy and smell free as poss, hence why when i used a rattle can I had to do it outside-doors closed then put it away to dry for a bit till the smell went off.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I have no idea where to start, internet research I expect, then shop for the cheapest price.

Badger are supposed to be good I have read.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I have no idea where to start, internet research I expect, then shop for the cheapest price.

I found some value in this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Your-Guide-to-Buying-an-Airbrush-for-Model-Kit-Building-/10000000177318677/g.html

 

In the end it is the content of your wallet, and what you are prepared to pay. At present I've got four: two brand-less (one siphon fed the remainder gravity), a bulson, and a harder & steinbeck. As an after thought, you do notice the difference between low and high end airbrushes

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Hi Greg,

 

I have 2 airbrush systems.  For general wide coverage with acrylics etc I use the Aztek; however, for finer work I use a Harder and Steenbeck (H&S) Infinity CR+ (German made).  This is a high end airbrush and top quality - mine has proven faultless and I am very happy with it.  No matter which airbrush you buy, a little practice and experimentation is necessary to get the best out of it but you would have no troubles with that.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Mate, can't go wrong with Iwata, top Japanese quality.  I love mine in all it's shiny chrome goodness!

 

The Airbrushmegastore where I got mine was $100 cheaper than locally and I believe the store is over your side of the country. 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2037-iwata-hp-c-plus-airbrush-review-moved-by-mod/?hl=iwata

 

 

The only thing is it is 0.3mm needle which is good for small to medium stuff, but full hulls could have done with a larger spray pattern.  I might look at getting a larger Iwata for that later considering I always end up painting my paper hulls anyway LOL

 

There is a guy on here who did a whole series of youtube videos and covers airbrushes. (Paul Bud....something) anyway you will see what I mean about laying down large volumes for hulls if you can find them.

 

I think the Iwata would be a good choice if you stick with the 1:350.  The Airbrushmegastore also has all the spare and replacement parts for all the Iwatas so support is there.

 

Anyway my 2 cents worth.

 

Cheers

Slog

 

Edit: by the way your latest progress shots are stunning.  I always wondered how labour intensive setting out and retrieving the nets would be in real life.

 

EDIT EDIT: Apologies to Paul, his name is Paul Budzik  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrdcVbQE5fUvTKxMbhnN_KQ

Edited by Captain Slog

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

HM Bark Endeavour (First Wood, On Hold)

Borodino (1:200 Card, Current Build)

Admiral Nakhimov (card 1/200)

Mazur D-350 Artillery Tractor (1:25 Card) 

F-8 Crusader (1:48 Aircraft, Plastic)

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Bugger, this is a whole new world. I reckon I've got about a month to go on this one, then a whole garden to weed and mulch plus my sideline of rowing coaching in summer. The next build will be a lot slower but bigger. I want to get this airbrush thingy sorted plus figuring out a compressor too.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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I use the cheaper ones for less important work, a.o. priming large surfaces. I prefer the Bulson/Harder & Steinbeck for more detailed work The H&S has two different needles and two cup sizes, which makes it more versatile (http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/infinity.html - the tow in one) but is rather pricey (simply put darn expensive) but I want to use it not just for modelling.

 

Compressors ... is a different piece of cake. Get a silent one, and one you can regulate the pressure easily. I've made the wrong buy, I can regulate the pressure, but it isn't easy.

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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I'll second Slog's vote of confidence in the Airbrush Megastore, Greg. Excellent service, great advice, good prices, and very quick turnaround. There's also a series of videos on their website.

 

Paul Budzik's videos on YouTube are also excellent and well worth taking a look at.

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Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny :o:)!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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Using an airbrush system, you are going to learn that a crucial part (maybe the most crucial part) of its use is keeping it clean. Over and over again, you are going to tear down, clean, and reassemble your airbrush. No way around it, no way to avoid it. With this is mind, the Harder and Steenbeck airbrush systems excel IMHO. Easy to tear down, easy to reassemble, easy to keep clean. There are other airbrush systems out there that perform well. But the H&S is probably the most high quality and simple out there. 

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Nibble1954 (your screen name is far to long ;) ) You are dead right. Cleaning comes first and last.

 

Greg,

 

Don;'t look at it as "Bugger, this is a whole new world" - it's how I attacked it too - but it's fun to work with. With the H&S airbrush I got a CD on which they explained a lot and give prastice tips. I did actually follow those and it was fun to do. Gave me a sence of understanding the tool. I tought myself how to weld (CO2), before I started on my BLMC Mini Van. I spend quite some time trying it out on different metal thicknesses ... Don't rush yourself because you want to start your build .... When I see how you create this build ... it is inspiring and I wish I could do it the way you do .........................

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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This is what I mean.

post-14614-0-04512300-1473441574_thumb.png

The starboard side has it, but not the port. I hope his helps! :)

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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It's hard to base your comments on the pictures from someone else, Elijah, try to be as specific as you can, for like Jan I cannot see the problem ....... THOUGH, don't let this be a reason not to comment in future!!!

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Oops! I think I may need a new pair of glasses! I think the way the lighting was made the waterway look gray, so I thought it wasn't there. Please accept my apologies!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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That's a lot of detail well executed for such a scale Greg - really getting the hang of it now huh? :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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