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  • 1 month later...
Posted

This is pretty mundane stuff, but it's been a while since I made a contribution, so I figured what the heck!

These three photos show the installation of the anchor and its cable.  I prefer to give my coils a bit of a disheveled look, so I build them up slowly, by applying diluted Elmer's glue to small portions, and then setting them in place.  Once the glue is dry, I do another segment.  This allows me to shape the coils so they fit in a specific area.

 

post-2885-0-11832200-1471797339_thumb.jpg

 

This particular cable was made in three pieces.  A short length was spliced around the thwart, and tucked under the floor board.  The rest of the assembly was made off the model.  After the main coil was formed, a short length was spliced to the anchor ring, and attached to the top of the main coil.

 

post-2885-0-87963400-1471797698_thumb.jpg

 

With the anchor flopping around at the end of the cable, this assembly was a bit unhandy to work with.  Consequently, I was forced to remove the #3 thwart.  This helped, but minimizing unwanted glue spots during installation still was a challenge for me.  The black paint job on the anchor also took a pretty good beating.

 

post-2885-0-33308400-1471798258_thumb.jpg

 

I decided to stow the anchor under the thwart.  I'm not sure how functional this would have been, but at least it keeps it out of the way while I work on the rest of the model.

 

BobF

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Nice base bob! Is it just me, or is the boat sitting a bit farther back on the base? If so, is the extra space for a bowsprit or the likes of?

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

Posted

Hi Elijah,

 

Yes, the model is sitting further back.  I like for my plinths to be slightly longer than the overall length of the model.  It has a pleasing look to it (At least for me it does.), and this allows me to put a brass nameplate under the bowsprit, which balances out the presentation to some extent.

 

BobF

Posted

Bob,

That looks amazing.

Having the longboat centered on the base would have created several problems further down the road when casing.

This will look awesome once the longboat has a home!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bob- Fantastic work. Eagerly awaiting your next steps. I would also like to thank you for your log. It has been extremely helpful and an inspiration for my longboat build. Chuck's log and yours- simply the best builds of the longboat. -Steve

  • 2 months later...
Posted

With the holidays in the rear view mirror, I've been able to return to the workbench.  I've been working on prepping as much of the rigging as possible off the model.  Lashing the upper deadeyes to the shrouds was the last requirement before I permanently step the mast.

 

I decided to use the "deadeye claw" method for this model.  This was my first experience with this technique, and, so far, it has worked pretty well.  Here is a closeup of one of the assemblies.

 

post-2885-0-36326600-1484151673_thumb.jpg

 

I was able to use a simple fixture for making the claws, which produced pretty consistent results, so I made four of them.

 

If you look at the next photo, you'll see that the right shroud is "tacked" on to the deadeye at about the 4 o'clock position.  I use white glue for this.  That way, I can correct it if there is a problem.  You may be wondering what the black thread is that's attached to the upper deadeyes.  Well, with the lower deadeye hooked to the chain plate, the whole assembly was very difficult to work with.  It kept flopping around.  The thread is temporarily tied to the upper part of the mast, and provides stability.  Once the initial glue application is dry, I add a little more glue around the bottom, up to about the 8 or 9 o'clock position.  (See the left deadeye.)  The deadeye can now be handled without the shroud separating from the deadeye.

 

post-2885-0-35259600-1484151922_thumb.jpg

 

 Here are the finished results.  The deadeyes look pretty even, but I won't know for sure until they are fastened with the lanyards.

 

post-2885-0-85994600-1484152229_thumb.jpg

 

I'm sure that for the vast majority of you, this post isn't anything earth shaking.  But, maybe, someone will find it useful.

 

BobF

 

 

Posted

Steve:

 

Thank you for the kind words.  Unfortunately, after I took those photos, I took the mast down.  I had some inboard touch-up work to do, and it was in the way.  I'll be happy to post some photos of the upper mast when I re-step it, which will be soon.  What is it that you want to specifically see?

 

BobF

Posted

Steve:

 

Here are a few photos of where I currently am with the model.  Nothing, at this point, is permanently tied down.  I decided to leave the backstay pendents until last since they would interfere with belaying other lines.  Quite a mess, huh?

 

post-2885-0-83223500-1484407825_thumb.jpg

 

It looks like the deadeye claw method is working out well.  The deadeyes appear to be pretty even.

 

post-2885-0-89996300-1484407934_thumb.jpg

 

Per your request, here is a closeup of the upper part of the mast.  I hope you find it useful.

 

BobF

 

post-2885-0-20252100-1484408090_thumb.jpg

Posted

Bob, that last picture with the top of the master was a nice one.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I came across some photos of a contemporary model that had the oars mounted on racks on the port and starboard sides of the hull.  This appealed to me, so I thought I'd give it a try.  Made out of brass flat stock and wire, the assemblies were soldered together with Stay-Brite Solder.  My version is not as ornate, but I really didn't want them to be.

 

post-2885-0-98281100-1485381460_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-16878300-1485381579_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-05778800-1485381629_thumb.jpg

 

Here are a few photos showing four oars temporarily in position.  These will probably be the last pieces I mount permanently.

 

BobF

 

post-2885-0-19889300-1485382027_thumb.jpg

post-2885-0-34135700-1485382075_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bob, congrats to an amazing final longboat.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

Bob, I second that. It was exciting to come across your build of this when I started my longboat and then to get to see you work through completing it. I assure you that we who are still working on it are "borrowing" some of your innovations and techniques. You make me want to start over! Haha Congrats!!

Steve

Posted

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