HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale

[Stuntflyer]

Before starting on the Qgalleries, the two outer windows need to be installed along with the acetate and filler pieces. I used a small bead of glue, top and bottom, to hold each window in place. Then I added the clear acetate and filler pieces. The fillers are painted a dark gray color. I did not apply any glue before inserting them as the fit was snug enough. I did however close any gaps around the filler pieces, with some glue, in order to prevent any dust from getting in afterwards. The fillers were then sanded down flat to the transom.

Mike

[Chuck]

Looks great Mike.   Exactly as it should at this stage.  Well done...

[Rustyj]

Very nice Mike. So clean and crisp!

[dvm27]

I'm betting you never thought you'd be building a model of this complexity before Chuck's Winny came along. That's beautiful work Mike! Even with all those laser cut parts and guides it's still no walk in the park. Is their a more complex structure than an 18th century stern?

[Stuntflyer]

Greg, You're right! Certain aspects of the model are quite complex. I have just begun to work on the first Qgallery and find that these laser cut parts need quite a bit of tweaking in order to fit according to plan.

 

To begin the Qgallery assembly, I used Chuck's template to establish where the upper support beam for the stool would go. This beam should run parallel to the planking, but the template could yield a different result depending on the angle of the transom or planking run, for example.

Luckily the upper beam is parallel. This photo was taken slightly below straight on, therefore the curve of the beam gives the impression that it's not parallel. When you check the beam try to move your eyes level to the beam to see if it's parallel to the planking. After setting the upper beam I then added the lower beam. The two beams need to be faired prior to planking the stool.

To get the planking shape, I moistened and clamped the plank to the two beams. I used the heat gun to set the shape and dry the wood. 

I almost forgot to mention that when fairing the two beams I used the drop as a guide when fairing the lower beam. You don't want the planking to stand too proud of the drop. I had to reduce the lower beam depth slightly on my ship.

Mike

[jimvanlan99]

Mike, where did you find the Chapter 3 instructions that cover the construction of the Q galleries?

Jim

[Stuntflyer]

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21496-downloads-area-for-the-winnie-monograph-chapters/

[jimvanlan99]

Mike, thank you for the quick response!  Jim

[Rustyj]

Very nice Mike and great explanation.

 

[Stuntflyer]

The seats are finished. The one on the starboard side was done after planking the stool. Getting a good fit all around required a number of angles being worked into the seat. I used a dowel to hold the seat when checking for fit and to hold it into position while the glue set.

When it came to doing the one on the port side, I decided to do things differently. This time I installed the seat before planking the stool. That meant I didn't have to work the two outside angles for fit. Once the seat was glued, I simply faired the outer edge of the seat.

Mike

Edited November 20, 2022 by Stuntflyer

[Hubac's Historian]

I am always so impressed with your skill, Mike, and your tireless attention to detail.

[JpR62]

So precise and clean ! 🙂 It seems so simple with your explanations and yet it requires a high level of execution quality.

What a wonderful job ! Thank you for sharing your build with us !

[Chuck]

That looks terrific mike.  Your doing great and I wouldnt have expected anything less.  Take your time with the molding on the stools.  They are tough and tricky.  They will require plenty of edge bending.  There is a very sharp curve to them.  
 

 

[Stuntflyer]

I took a break from the Qgalleries in order to get the lower counter molding done. First, I needed to clean up the wale edges at the counter and paint them black. The molding was scraped using a piece of thin brass sheet. There is a slight curvature to these which is easily formed with dry heat edge bending. For reference you will find the sterndrawing.pdf file in the chapter 3 discussion. Placing them by eye onto the transom would have been tricky, so I stacked several layers of masking tape together which was used for alignment when gluing them on. Those thin pieces of green tape were used as pull hinges to expose the underside of the molding when applying the glue.

Mike

[Gahm]

This looks fantastic, Mike! You are a master of precision 🙂

 

Thomas

[Stuntflyer]

Time for another update. The fancy moldings that define the upper counter are done. Only one scraper was needed and it was made from a piece of .025 brass sheet. Making the scraper with such a tiny profile proved more difficult than I thought. I must have made 6 or more before finally getting it right. The last photo best shows the shape used.

 

Using tape along with a pencil to darken the edge is an easy way to determine the proper shape for edge bending.

Mike

Edited April 3, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[Rustyj]

That molding looks fantastic!

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks, Rusty and a belated thanks to everyone for the comments and "Likes".

 

Mike

[Beckmann]

Hi Mike,

the moldings look brilliant. Would you mind showing us your scraper and how you made it?

Thanks Matthias

[KenW]

Hey Mike - hope you're staying healthy.

I like your idea to determine the shape of edge bending.  I'll have to try it out.

Thanks.

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, I have a question for you. In your photo, the top of the Qgallery (pie shaped piece) is on the line on the fore end and above the line on the aft end. How did you determine this to be the correct position?

Mike

[Chuck]

Its actually an optical illusion......its lined up with the top.  Because it doesnt run to the edge it just looks like its aligned with the bottom.

[Stuntflyer]

Here are the tools I used for shaping the scraper. .

https://www.gesswein.com/p-3534-ultra-thin-cut-off-discs-78.aspx

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_28

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/409-15-16-cutting-wheels-36-pack

 

Mike

Edited April 3, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[captainscott]

That is very impressive, great building.

[Stuntflyer]

Work continues on the QGalleries with both sides at the same state. The windows were not glued in. Doing so now, along with the clear acetate behind them, would only create a dust issue later on. Better to wait.

 

I also managed to scrape the fancy hull moldings. The tape on the hull represents the location for the top edge of the bottom molding. That's the one that runs through the gun ports. I established its position by measuring down a set distance from the shear at the waste. From there I tried to run the tape with a smooth run the entire length of the hull while taking additional measurements. The tape gives a nice edge for setting the molding into position. Once a length of molding was in place I removed the tape from that section.

Mike

 

 

Edited April 14, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[MEDDO]

Beautiful, such clean and precise work.  

[JpR62]

What a wonderful build log ! Always a great pleasure to read these posts ! Thank You 😄

[Stuntflyer]

Just a quick update to my previous post. The bollards above the bottom molding will be painted black. To make things easier, I painted the area underneath the fancy molding before adding it. Looks like a bit of touch up is needed on the wales. Never noticed it until I saw the photo.

Mike

Edited April 16, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[Stuntflyer]

I added the moldings that sit along the upper edge of the QGalleries. I left about 1/32" of the top of each window showing below the molding. The molding is straight across the top, so the roof should fit nicely on top. I still need to cut out the aft end of the moldings to make room for the figures.

Mike

Edited April 18, 2020 by Stuntflyer

[Beckmann]

Your model is perfekt, and your photos are as well. How do you do that? Such a white clean Background!!

Edited April 17, 2020 by Beckmann