Stuntflyer Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share #331 Posted April 5, 2021 Thanks! FrankWouts 1 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted April 5, 2021 Share #332 Posted April 5, 2021 Great result, Mike. The hanging of a rudder is so often poorly done with a huge gap between it and the stern post. Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyj Posted April 6, 2021 Share #333 Posted April 6, 2021 Great job Mike! Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Rusty "So Long For Now" Current Builds: Speedwell Completed Build Logs: HMS Winchelsea 1/48 Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross Section, Cutter Cheerful, Queen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share #334 Posted April 13, 2021 (edited) Over the weekend I worked on the rudder trunk and benches. Of course, Chuck's laser cut parts made things relatively easy. The tricky part was getting a tight fit between all the parts. The top of the rudder trunk needs to be angled where it sits up against the transom. I had to sand the bevel almost to a point in order to get a clean joint. When it came time to add the benches, I found that I needed to sand the bottoms slightly curved in order to match the camber in the margin plank. Further adjustments were made to insure that the benches did not sit on the deck. Mike Edited April 22, 2021 by Stuntflyer Jorge Diaz O, rafine, marktiedens and 23 others 26 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyj Posted April 13, 2021 Share #335 Posted April 13, 2021 Very nice Mike! Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Rusty "So Long For Now" Current Builds: Speedwell Completed Build Logs: HMS Winchelsea 1/48 Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross Section, Cutter Cheerful, Queen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gahm Posted April 13, 2021 Share #336 Posted April 13, 2021 Outstanding work as usual. Your attention to detail really pays off! Thomas FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Current Built: Model Shipways Syren (US Brig 1803) Last Built: Anfora (kit bashed) Ictineo II (1st steam powered submarine 1864) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankWouts Posted April 13, 2021 Share #337 Posted April 13, 2021 Simply stunning and beautiful Mike, your model as well as your findings and tips, these ones included on the rudder trunk and benches, are a reference for us all. Stuntflyer 1 Current builds on MSW: HMS Winchelsea 1:48: Prior builds on MSW: None Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipM Posted April 13, 2021 Share #338 Posted April 13, 2021 An amazing and awesome project. I'm a new member so this is quite intimidating but also inspiring. Thank you. PhilipM Stuntflyer, Ryland Craze and FrankWouts 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg M Posted April 13, 2021 Share #339 Posted April 13, 2021 Beautiful as always Mike. I never see so much as a stray speck of sawdust in your work. Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Current: HMS Winchelsea Finished: Phantom New York Pilot Boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JpR62 Posted April 13, 2021 Share #340 Posted April 13, 2021 Wonderful work! It's always so clean and precise! FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Jean-Paul 'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks', Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions Current builds : Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model - 1:24 HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:48 Santa Maria boat 1492 - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:24 Captain John Smith's shallop - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:32 Finished build : Queen Anne Barge - Syren Ship Model - 1:24 Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways - 1:48 Batelina - MarisStella - 1:10 Next on list : HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Syren Ship Model - 1:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share #341 Posted April 13, 2021 Thank you all for the comments and likes. Very much appreciated! Mike FrankWouts 1 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oorsouw53 Posted April 14, 2021 Share #342 Posted April 14, 2021 What a beauty this will be FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Jan van Oorsouw current build: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1/48 on Hold: Triton cross section Finished: Speel-jaght 1662 (Kolderstok) Sloop Mediator 1745, (plans Jeff Staudt.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share #343 Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on. Starting with the gun port lids. The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced The final result with all three planks in place When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below. Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge Pinned cleats to the bulwarks. Transom windows and sills Mike Edited May 3, 2021 by Stuntflyer Dziadeczek, WalrusGuy, JpR62 and 32 others 35 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyj Posted May 3, 2021 Share #344 Posted May 3, 2021 Very nice Mike! FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Rusty "So Long For Now" Current Builds: Speedwell Completed Build Logs: HMS Winchelsea 1/48 Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross Section, Cutter Cheerful, Queen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 3, 2021 Share #345 Posted May 3, 2021 That looks excellent Mike. You will be caught up with me in no time...😁 Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin Sloop Speedwell - POF scratch Block Island Boat - POF scratch HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build Royal Barge - POF scratch Medway Longboat- POF Scratch SYREN SHIP MODEL COMPANY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt D Posted May 3, 2021 Share #346 Posted May 3, 2021 All of this update is amazing, but the part that really strikes me is the gun port lid. Your work in every step is so precise on it, Mike. FrankWouts, Stuntflyer and druxey 3 Current Build: HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project) Completed Builds: Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share #347 Posted May 3, 2021 Thanks, Matt, I'd gladly do those lids anytime over having to do those pesky window sills. They were a pain! druxey, FrankWouts and Matt D 3 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrubbyj427 Posted May 11, 2021 Share #348 Posted May 11, 2021 Beautiful work Mike! Your build log is like an alternative instruction manual to Chucks build log. JJ FrankWouts, Matt D, bdgiantman2 and 1 other 4 Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 - 5th rate 32 gun frigate (on hold for now) HMS Portland 1770 Prototype 1:48 - 4th rate 50 gun ship Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyz Posted May 13, 2021 Share #349 Posted May 13, 2021 (edited) The precision of your workmanship is an inspiration to all of us Mike. Your exacting attention to detail is producing an exquisite model, and certainly something to be very proud of. Tom Edited May 13, 2021 by wyz Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vladimir_Wairoa Posted May 16, 2021 Share #350 Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/3/2021 at 2:57 AM, Stuntflyer said: I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on. Starting with the gun port lids. The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced The final result with all three planks in place When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below. Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge Pinned cleats to the bulwarks. Transom windows and sills Mike Oh Mike astounding.i love kind of dry color of it very much matching carving statues. this is modeling porn level:) FrankWouts 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svein erik Posted May 16, 2021 Share #351 Posted May 16, 2021 Am taking my hat off😊 svein.e FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted May 18, 2021 Author Share #352 Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) The eyebolts and split rings for the bulwarks and gun deck are done. Boy! I just love making those🤥 I made them as small as I could. The ID the bolts are around .025" which conforms to the smallest round nose pliar that I have. Just enough to get the 24ga rings through. Be careful not to drill too deep into the bulwarks against the plywood bulkheads. It wouldn't be hard to snap a bit if you did. Mike Edited May 22, 2021 by Stuntflyer Nunnehi (Don), egkb, JpR62 and 19 others 22 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted May 18, 2021 Share #353 Posted May 18, 2021 It's surprising now much metalwork was in a wooden ship. Nice and neatly done, Mike. Ryland Craze, Stuntflyer, FrankWouts and 1 other 4 Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt D Posted May 19, 2021 Share #354 Posted May 19, 2021 Your rings and eyes look perfect. On the eyes, I assume you wrap them around something several times and then cut to separate them. What do you use to cut them? FrankWouts 1 Current Build: HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project) Completed Builds: Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share #355 Posted May 19, 2021 45 minutes ago, Matt D said: I assume you wrap them around something several times and then cut to separate them. Yes, that's basically how I do it. I wrap the wire around the shank of a drill bit and then use a very fine blade on a fret saw to separate the rings. Mike FrankWouts, egkb and Matt D 3 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuntflyer Posted June 25, 2021 Author Share #356 Posted June 25, 2021 (edited) Well, here goes another update. . . Not a small task was completing the work on the cheeks and hair brackets. Rather than repeat what Chuck has already described it might be useful to mention a few things I did, including some observations, while completing the work. After assembling the four cheeks, the outer two layers were thinned down even more. I would say that I removed about 1/64" overall Before rounding off the center insert for the hair brackets, I lowered its profile a bit before rounding off. If it's too round the frieze won't span its width. I did not use the three laser cut pieces which go between the cheeks. They were about 1/64” short in height on my ship and I didn’t want any gaps showing at the outer end between the cheeks. Luckily, I had some .025 boxwood sheet from a previous build. The bolster was scratched as well. Drilling the hawse holes at an upward angle is crucial. I recommend filing the holes from both directions. After adding the bolster it was easy enough to cleanup the transition between the hawse holes and bolster with some wood filler. Prior to adding the friezes, I painted the paper edge with un-thinned POLY Scale Dark Green 414272 which I found to be a close overall match. My suggestion when adding the friezes to the cheeks and hair brackets would be to do that after those pieces are glued in place. Even though the friezes overlap, establishing the proper length in order to match the frieze pattern should not be too difficult to do. The wash cants were added after painting them black. I think I'm going to add the short decorative molding along the front of the figures leg after the figure is glued in place. There was what seemed like an endless amount of fitting, adjusting and more fitting needed in order to get all the parts working together. Getting both feet of the figurehead to sit against the hair bracket was tricky. The joints between the cheeks and hair bracket as well as a uniform tapering of those parts all required some of extra work. Even the angle of the carving had to be tweaked. No rushing here, at all! The knee was made by first shaping one side and then pinning that side temporarily to the hull. This was done in order to make it easier to fit the other half to it. Using a hand turned disk sander with tilt table makes it easier to get the angle just right between the two halves. The finished knee was painted off the ship. Mike Edited June 25, 2021 by Stuntflyer egkb, Seventynet, Hubac's Historian and 17 others 20 Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF) Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB) Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt D Posted June 25, 2021 Share #357 Posted June 25, 2021 That’s nothing short of stunning, Mike. FrankWouts and Stuntflyer 2 Current Build: HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project) Completed Builds: Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann Posted June 25, 2021 Share #358 Posted June 25, 2021 Hi Mike, very well done!!! How did you position the figurehead, so it does not sit too much forward of the stem? Did you remove a bit of the stem behind the back of the figurehead? And did I understand that right: You glued the wooden pieces of the hair brackets to the model and afterwards added the paper frieze? Matthias Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gahm Posted June 25, 2021 Share #359 Posted June 25, 2021 Super job, Mike! Thomas Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 Current Built: Model Shipways Syren (US Brig 1803) Last Built: Anfora (kit bashed) Ictineo II (1st steam powered submarine 1864) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubac's Historian Posted June 25, 2021 Share #360 Posted June 25, 2021 That is just picture perfect, Mike! If I were building this model, one thing I would be tempted to experiment with would be to use the printed frieze as a template to overpaint with either an oil, or a full-bodied acrylic. My objective would be to try and approximate the slight relief one sees on the original models. As it is, the printed frieze looks fantastic, but it could be interesting to see whether hand-painting enhances or detracts. Anyway, it is just a thought. I really enjoy watching your progress, here, Mike. Stuntflyer and FrankWouts 2 We are all works in progress, all of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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