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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale


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I've been working my way through chapter ten. .

 

The first thing I did was to make the three coamings that sit on the center belt of QD planking. It's easy enough to just glue the coamings together. However, to get a good result, I always take the time to make sure that everything is squared up and the sides are at a 90° angle.

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I like to use this setup for sanding the grating and coaming as a unit. It is easy to adjust the camber by simply moving the metal sheet up or down with the sticks. I use Porter Cable sticky back 220 grit sandpaper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223SN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

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Once that was done, I moved onto the center belt planking.  Here are a few shots of the completed work. Good time to clean up the dust!

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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1 hour ago, Stuntflyer said:

simply moving the metal sheet up or down with the sticks.

Nice jig, what's holding the sticks in place?  You're work is always a marvel to behold.  Those deck planks lay so perfectly at the stern.

Edited by glbarlow

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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Thank you!
 

As  you push the sticks underneath the 1/64” brass sheet, the pressure created by lifting the sheet against the hold down screws is enough to keep the sticks in place. Use a stick that's anywhere from 3/16" to 3/8" thick.

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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I finally managed to get the companionway on the ship. The uprights were pinned with 24 gauge wire to the coaming. The four long rails were pinned to the uprights by turning a tiny round end into the rails with the Dremel. Holes were drilled equidistant into the uprights to accept the rail pins.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Very nice Mike!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I didn't realize that it's been almost a month since my last update. Actually I've been working on the ships wheel, binnacle, QD rail, etc., as the mood strikes. Kinda gives me time to think about my next move on making a specific part.

 

Getting started on the QD rail proved to be finicky when I tried to add too many parts at once. My only suggestion is that however you go about it, don't do that. I ended up only adding and securing the pieces that I felt would would form the foundation for the remaining pieces.

 

Every timberhead and post that goes on the rail should be set vertical. Everything was pre-painted beforehand.

 

The two sections are ready to accept the remaining parts. I can move either one forward or aft while setting up the post, etc.

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Ofelia, my fiancee, shows how to use a short stick to establish the proper angle for the posts. The stick is placed along the two upper moldings and the top outside edge of the post. Before the glue sets it's easy enough to tweak the post.

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As of today. .

Winchelsea_0303.thumb.jpg.4593d48d4058affc4d902134f4baae53.jpg

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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The breastrail which was one of those in between projects I've been working on is finished. It looks pretty straight forward, but the six columns required some time to shape. Luckily the laser cut side gave me the shape that needed to be duplicated on the adjacent side.

Winchelsea_0307.thumb.jpg.56dd510ca97dc1c771d7a2cdd2837f73.jpg

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Thanks, Chuck

 

With regard to adhering the friezes to the binnacle. Do you prefer Scotch Spray Mount or Elmer's Glue Stick?

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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For small pieces I prefer the glue stick.  I can get more control.   Even if I apply with a toothpick.   Less messy.

 

 

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Yes, it’s true. I spent a lot of time on those columns. That said, Chuck’s attention to detail when laser cutting parts really makes all the difference. He lays out the foundation, but the work has to be done beyond that in order to get a satisfying result.

 

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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More progress today. I managed to get the wheel finished and on the ship. I could have used the laser cut spokes, but I decided to scratch them instead. Either way would have worked just fine.

Winchelsea_0312.thumb.jpg.0bbb90fd423b753514463fbf96033996.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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I placed a square stick in the Dremel. Using a dial caliper to measure, I reduced the diameter of the stick at three locations with needle files. The base of the handle and right below the squared area was reduced using a round file to .035. The bottom of the spoke at the hub was reduced using a flat file to .045. Once that was done I was able to do the final shaping while using the reduced areas as a guide.

 

Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks you all!

 

I've been catching up on areas of the ship that were not completed earlier. The Q-gallery windows where on hold to avoid damage or dust collection. The remaining large guns due to my just being lazy. Anyway, here are some photos along with a few updates to chapter ten. After I drill the holes for the pinned QD guns I will finish up the upper rail on the QD.

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Mike

Edited by Stuntflyer

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Beautiful work Mike!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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I guess that we each have our own idea of what constitutes a milestone. For me it's getting all that repetitive work completed in making guns. Winchelsea_0328.thumb.jpg.7ee9568f11a22821b55150a088bb5eae.jpg

Mike

 

 

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Hi Joe,

 

My camera is an old Nikon D5100 DSLR. It has a very good 16 megapixel sensor for its time. But in order to get sharp shots I use prime lenses. Mostly the 60mm macro lens, but sometimes the 35mm f/1.8. Of course I always use the tripod and I shoot at bass ISO.

 

Surprisingly , new cameras with more megapixels are not going to yield better shots for the kind of photographs that we are taking and where they are being posted on the web.

 

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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Just a quick update. .

 

I managed to complete the upper rail today which finishes up chapter ten. One thing I would mention is the importance of being able to tweak the pillars on either side of the gun barrels. In my earlier post #483, Ofelia shows the way to get them into alignment. If I had glued them in with epoxy or CA it would have been very difficult to tweak them later while installing the upper rail. The rail is thin, so it wouldn't take much for things to not line up perfectly.

 

Before adding the rail, I checked it for the run along the pillar tops. It was check in both directions, sideways and from the top. I ended up changing the curvature of the rail as well as re-tweaking one or two pillars. Since the pillars where glued in with PVA, I simply nudged the pillar one way or another without the need to moisten the glue joint. Winchelsea_0331.thumb.jpg.d667fef04322702e4e6b41860b9f0c5d.jpg

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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