USS Missouri by Koppalakki - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC - 1991 configuration with Pontos detail set

[Koppalakki]

No worries guys!

 

Well here they are and in comparison! Judge for yourself, I myself am pretty satisfied with the end results.

I did add some mix and smash to the Infini set. The launcher base isn't provided so I added one from sheet styrene.

Also the front door face got some details cut out from the Veteran ones. I think they look a like now a bit more and should work out ok!

 

So here's the finished Infini one!

 

 

Veteran closed one!

 

 

Next to each other!

 

 

And in context!

 

[CDW]

Without seeing these launchers built here, would have never guessed they contained so much detail. Infini goes above and beyond.

[lmagna]

I agree with Dirk. With the exception that the one is open I would have never guessed that they were not from the  same source. Fantastic modeling.

[GrandpaPhil]

Awesome!

[popeye the sailor]

absolutely wonder progress........that funnel deserves the mark of excellence!  I noticed that on the sides of your turrets,  it looks like little bomb decals...........decorations for the number of hits perhaps?  really superb workmanship........all together,  she's gonna look awesome!   

[Koppalakki]

Thanks for the compliments, glad you're all enjoying!

 

I'm working on the harpoon launchers from infini now. Another piece of jewlery I must say!

[RGL]

Can you give us a little tutorial on your painting technique? Your Yamato was just inspired and your levels/layers of painting, filters and pigments would be a great benefit to all of us.

 

 

 

 

[Koppalakki]

I guess I can setup some tutorial on some small piece when I get the time.

 

The only problem is to setup the "light booth" to take the photos as I have to dismount it as I don't have space to leave it. And the fact I like to work fast when I'm in the zone so taking pauses for every step slows me down.

[RGL]

Iphone, workdesk, sunlight; we’re not fancy! 

[Koppalakki]

Well once you got the quality you like it's hard to go back. I've built one model out of box in 5 years or so 😁

[Old Collingwood]

Any hand painting tips would also be very greatfully appreciated.

 

OC.

[Koppalakki]

28 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Any hand painting tips would also be very greatfully appreciated.

 

OC.

Don't really have any tips for that tbh. I usually only paint decks, I use Life color acrylics for that most of the time and just dip in the can brush on!

[Old Collingwood]

23 minutes ago, Koppalakki said:

Don't really have any tips for that tbh. I usually only paint decks, I use Life color acrylics for that most of the time and just dip in the can brush on!

Same with me I use Lifecolor  but  almost all my painting is hand painted by brushes.

 

OC.

[Koppalakki]

And here's the infinis harpoon launcher!

 

About 50 pieces of PE and builds up nicely!

 

 

And some painting and detailing going on with the middle tomahawk pad.

 

[RGL]

Magnificent as usual. I don’t think we’ll ever build out of the box again with the world of aftermarket. 

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, RGL said:

Magnificent as usual. I don’t think we’ll ever build out of the box again with the world of aftermarket. 

And adding scratch  even on plastic kits.

 

OC.

[Koppalakki]

Ok here's a bit more indepth into painting. Just a disclaimer, some of the shading and weathering are a bit hard to see in the photos as my mobiles camera and my lighting has trouble capturing it all. For naked eye it's way more visible. It is subtle though.

 

So primed with mr surfacer 1200 thinned down with leveling thinner and a few drops of mr retarder.

 

 

Then Tamiya black sprayed. All paints thinned with leveling thinner to about 30/70 paint to thinner ratio. Also low pressure used.

I use an Iwata custom micron CM-B for my airbrushing.

 

 

Next Tamiya XF-19 grey sprayed.

 

 

After this some overspray to tone it down.

 

 

I don't take breaks at these steps normally, just trying to show it a bit clearer.

 

Then some more white is added to the mix.

 

 

Once again overspray to tone it down.

 

 

Next I used lifecolors dark gray to paint the base and a blue filter using AKs blue for panzer thinned about 80% with white spirit.

If you see it forming around details like a wash, then it's too heavy. You also don't want to drown the surface, just get some filter into your brush, get excess off to a paper towel, then go around the whole part.

 

 

Then a black wash. Dark wash from ammo of mig used, thinned about 80% again.

 

 

And cleaned up.

 

 

Next some white oils were dotted around. For larger surfaces you can use a bit more varied colors from buff to yellow and blues.

 

 

Then blended in with white spirit.

 

 

To finish it off a bit of dry brushing with light gray enamel mixed with white oil paint.

 

 

And here's a finished Harpoon launcher. Here you can see the same piece, but different angle to show how all the shades disappear.

 

 

 

They do look a lot better to naked eye and all the steps are worth it imo.

[Koppalakki]

Finally got myself up to painting the hull!

 

So first some hull red. I started with Tamiyas hull red as base. I then masked at the plate joins with masking tape and sprayed flat red.

After this some good ol overspray to give the hull more of a red color.

 

After masking the boot top bottom some black base was sprayed. After this XF-19 as base gray while letting some black show through.

 

 

On the other side I started with the oil canning already. Lightened the XF-19 with some white and masked the horizontal lines first.

I did it in a couple of about 10 to 15 cm long sections. After that about 360 vertical lines were masked and sprayed.

 

After looking through the photos of the real ship the oil canning effect seem to concentrate on the bow and the stern while the mid ship is not that noticeable. So the mid ship recieved the most overspray then gradually less towards the stern. The bow is still untreated to show how it looks after just masking and painting.

 

 

Also most of the decks were painted and wooden decks in place. They went alright even though the order in the build wasn't the best.

I had to stretch the deck to get them to go under some PE details on the side walls etc. I brushed the decks with water before applying the deck.

This will help to get them into position and to get it to glue in better! This is from a old pontos deck instructions, yet nowadays they never mention about it. So use a lot of water when attaching them and your good to go and it won't come off!

 

[CDW]

Do you ever add a drop or two of dishwashing detergent with the water to apply to the deck before placement of the wood stick-on?

It's an old trick we used when applying stick-on decals to shrink film on radio controlled models. Without the solution, once that decal touches the surface, you can't move it without ruining either the decal and/or the surface. I've never tried it (water) with the wooden decks, but am going to do it now that I know others have experimented with favorable results. I just didn't know how the wood would respond to the water. 

[cog]

what's the width of your masking tape for the oil canning, and the distance between the vertical strands? Do you maintain the same distances for different ships at the same scale?

From what I see every line is sprayed seperately ... must be a hell of a job, hence your remark about the tedium of oil canning

Edited August 13, 2018 by cog

[Koppalakki]

The back side is a glue film (some sort of thin plastic film/card on the bottom between the glue and the wooden deck) so the water doesn't even get in contact with the "wood".

Though I don't think nothing would happen to it anyway, I've thrown washes and what nots on top of these and I've not noticed anything bad happening to them and I've had models for over 4 years with these decks.

[Koppalakki]

3 minutes ago, cog said:

what's the width of your masking tape for the oil canning, and the distance between the vertical strands? Do you maintain the same distances for different ships at the same scale?

From what I see every line is sprayed seperately ... must be a hell of a job, hence your remark about the tedium of oil canning

Yes they are sprayed seperately. It doesn't matter what width you use, though smaller is easier to work with. I'm not too exact on the widths, that would drive you insane 😜. And there's variance in real ships anyway. I just look at photos and usually make a nice compromise on it.

I was surprised it only took me about 5 hours for one side, last time on my DDG it took forever, though I did a bit smaller pattern that time.

[popeye the sailor]

superb painting skills!   launchers and hull looks great   

[Koppalakki]

Finally basic painting and decals finished!

 

This time I was surprised how the dry trasfers worked! A bit of issues here and there but all in all they went down nicely without destroying too much!

 

Next step is to weather the hull so I can move on to detailing the deck!

 

[Old Collingwood]

Looking very nice.

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

nice clean paint work........absolutely superb   

[Koppalakki]

Cheers gents! Glad you're all enjoying!

 

Here's some work on the hull.

 

First I masked the section I was working on and then sprayed 3 layers of Ammo of mig scratches effect chipping fluid. I air dried the layers in between with my airbrush and spraying each layer from different direction. The ammount of layers defines how fine the effect will be!

Next step is to spray some enamel color. I used Ammo of mig rain streak, which is a light buff color.

Take care not all hairspray/chipping fluids work with enamels!

 

 

Next step is to use a brush with water to start to build the effect. I start by going through the waterline first, then removing the tape.

After this all the surfaces not covered with the buff color gets some water brushed on. After this with a damp brush I start to brush into the buff.

The enamel bound by the chipping fluid can be moved around the surface creating nice faded chipping effect.

 

 

Then the next section masked.

 

 

Enamel buff sprayed.

 

 

Rinse and repeat!

 

 

And the whole ship gone through.

 

 

And the work continues!

[Tigerdvr]

That's just great work. I don't know if I could try that after you did such a nice job on the "clean" hull. Following with mucho interest.

 

Cheers, Harley

[Koppalakki]

And some more action on the hull!

 

Next step was to airbrush couple of shades of yellows and greens in specific places.

After this some deep red oil paints were dotted where only hull red was visible to give more variation.

Then a light dark wash on selected details.

 

The props and shafts got a mix of light dust pigments and some slime green and browns enamels on top of them.

 

 

And I think thats it for most of the underwater hull weathering.

 

On the other side I already finished the upper areas aswell. First a blue filter, then a dark wash.

After this light oil colors dotted around the surface and blended in.

Dirt and rust stains with burnt umber oils streaked down.

 

 

The crew kept her in good condition according to reference so I'm gonna keep her clean for the most part.

[yvesvidal]

Amazing paint job. Stupendous.

 

Yves