HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans

[SawdustDave]

Finally got a little browse and learning time today Toni, and headed straight for your amazing log. Now, I'm sitting here plotting how I will pull off the purchase of a new toy and keep it OFF THE BOOKS.. The Admiral thinks I have way too many toys in the Ship Yard already....imagine that. I'm thinking I can sell a DeWalt thickness plainer, and my large shop lathe....both pretty much gathering dust since I took up modeling.

 

Thanks for the tutorial. Love your work.

Dave

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Brilliant and so interesting

Greg

[Martin W]

And now we can see, Toni, why all those pricey attachments to the Sherline are necessary.  The problem with tools is that you can only begin to see what they make possible after you buy them.  Beautiful work.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[dvm27]

Very nice job, Tony. I don't use the rotary table often but I can't imagine doing a precision job like this without one. The other application where it is terrific is when constructing the ships wheel.

[tlevine]

Ben, degame is another hardwood which is not seen too often.  Many years ago, someone recommended it for mast making and so I bought a piece from Dave Stevens.  I did not like it for masts because this piece had a tendency to warp. 

 

Grant, Dave, Greg and Martin, thanks for your comments.  Greg, hopefully I will get to that ship's wheel in the next year or two!  One  nice thing about the rotary table is the screw for the chuck.  For items that are better held in the 3 or 4-jaw chuck, rather than the vise, it holds it securely and at 90^o.

[Chuck]

Nicely Done Toni!!!!   Very finicky work and the pictures dont show how small those pieces actually are to work with. 

[dgbot]

That is why I like Sherline.  I bought the basic lathe years ago when I was scratch building my Benjamin W. Latham and have just added on extras as the need and my pocketbook would allow.  I planned to get a Rotary table when I was diagnosed and that is on hold for a while as my mill is at a friends back in Chicago.  When I went back he said I could it with me but my back almost killed me.  He is keeping until i have the room and the need.  A rotary table is almost a need when doing many jobs.  

David B

[albert]

Hi Toni, beautiful model, fantastic work.

[tlevine]

Chuck, David, Albert, thanks.

 

I have had a little more time to work on the capstan details.  Bolts are used to secure the whelps and the chocks to the spindle.  Bolts are also placed through the reinforcing ring.  I left these bright to contrast with the black color of the ring.  They are actually countersunk bolts.  I did not have any brass thick enough to machine the pawls, so these are made from wood which has been painted black.  Sorry for the sawdust in the first two pictures.  This is an example of the camera seeing more than the naked eye and the capstan heads have since been cleaned.

 

 

 

 

 

Although I have drilled holes for the capstan bar retaining chains, I have decided not to model them.  They look "messy" to me and detract from the appearance of the capstan head.  I also figure I have a few months to finally make up my mind about them.  I have also not decided whether I will insert the bars.  Could anyone tell me where would these have been stored when not in use?

[AON]

were they not stored overhead?

Alan

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Your capstan is looking really good. It's a clever idea to make the ring from timber.

[tlevine]

Overhead storage seems right to me Alan.  Thanks, Christian.

 

Bill Maxwell generously gave me some of his sheet mica for the windows.  So, of course, I had to remake the fore bulkhead window and re-glaze it with mica rather than acetate.  For those of you not familiar with his work, take a look at his Fly at  http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/projectphotos1.html?proj=74

 

 

The aft bulkheads were made in similar fashion to the forecastle ones.  They are only temporarily positioned to facilitate fabrication and insertion of the quarter deck beams.

 

 

 

 

[dgbot]

Looking good Toni, question I have never worked with Mica but knew where to get and was wondering how it is shaped and glued.  At Manitowoc I have seen it used many times.

David B

[druxey]

Mica is easily worked, David. It comes in layered sheets. These sheets (think millefeuille pastry!) split apart very easily, so you can get a very thin layer if you wish. It can be cut with a blade or sharp scissors. The only drawback is that there are many inclusions in the material, so you need to select the clearest pieces out of your sheet.

[Mirabell61]

beautiful work Toni,

 

I like it that you are taking care of the necessary standing hight in the cabin Areas...

 

Nils

[rafine]

Lovely work Toni.

 

Bob

[albert]

Hi Toni wonderful work.

[jbshan]

I think the inclusions in sheet mica give it a lot more character than glass or other modern clear sheet materials.  You can cover an entire window with the mica and it looks more like individual panes than if you try the same thing with a totally flat material, which looks more like a storm window with the mullions merely for looks.  Didn't say that well, sorry.  It's also very easy to work with, as druxey says.

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Amazing details Toni.

I can't think of other words That do you justice.

Greg

[tlevine]

Thank you everyone for the compliments and the likes.  The mica is wonderful to work with.  It cuts easily with either scissors or knife.  Its only drawback is that it is so soft that it scratches easily, even with a soft cloth. 

[tlevine]

Time to spend a little time in the stern.  What should have been the easy fabrication of a few planks and several window frames turned into a three day project.  The upper counter is make up of two planks.  Since there is side to side curvature, these were made with paper templates and then cut to shape.  So far so good.  Now it is time to make the frames for the stern lights.  Something does not look right.  I make the lower sills and install them.  Something really does not look right.  The windows are too short.  So out come the plans and everything is remeasured.  The lower counter is

2 mm too tall, which made the upper counter 2 mm too tall.  The quarter deck clamps are 1.5m too low at the stern and therefore the quarter deck transom is too low.  This is a perfect example of cumulative error coming back to haunt you.

 

In this case the fix included removing and correcting the lower and upper counter planking and raising the quarter deck transom.  The deck clamps are very firmly affixed so the last few beams will have shims placed at their edges to compensate. The window height was still a tiny bit too short so I thinned out the lower edge of the quarter deck transom to buy a little more height.  Like any normal ship modeler, the last thing I thought about at this time was taking pictures for before/after shots.  Consequently all the pictures are "after" rebuilding but before final sanding.  The first three pictures show the rebuilt counters.  I was playing with lighting and exposures and accidentally came up with the second picture. The stark contrast of the light wood against the dark background helps to see the increased height of the windows.  And for the record, the irregularity of the lower surface of the quarter deck transom has been corrected.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the upper counter was in place, the lower sills were installed.  The sides of the frame are recessed back from the aft edge of the lower sill.  This provides a stop for the out-swinging window.

 

 

 

 

 

Since the lower counter was modified, I decided that now would be a good time to make sure the rudder sat properly behind the stern post.  Happily, there was no problem.

 

 

The stern post terminates at the level of the quarter deck top-of-beam.  One of the beams is notched into the fore face of the stern post.  In the last photo you can see how the ceiling and the quarter deck clamp has been cut back to make room for the window stops.  Additionally, you can see the transom elevated approximately 1.5 mm above the deck clamp.

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

That stern's coming along nicely, Toni!

 

John

[dvm27]

Great job, Toni. I don't believe there's a more difficult job then framing the stern and getting all the curves right (except for the head timbers and rails...and carving...and louvered windows...and...)

Edited December 11, 2015 by dvm27

[druxey]

Ah, the Curse of Cumulative Error! Glad you overcame it, Toni.

[mtaylor]

Nice catch and fix, Toni. 

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Toni,

 

This provides a stop for the out-swinging window.

 

 

Oops - Stop right there - the windows need to swing IN. A problem I encountered after I'd almost completed the ship. Druxey will tell you the same.

 

See THIS exchange of opinions and the results in my build log. You'll need to "fast-forward" a bit over some other comments.

 

  Danny

[tlevine]

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments.  In particular, a huge thank you to Danny.  I must admit I was wondering how one would keep the window open.  Happily, I am still at the stage where I can correct the problem.

[Dan Vadas]

Happily, I am still at the stage where I can correct the problem.

 

 

I was hoping you were . A few minor re-do's is all.

 

  Danny

[tlevine]

Danny, do you know how these windows were held open?  Hook and eye?  Pulley?  It is tempting to show the starboard (unplanked) side with the windows open but I am concerned that it would detract from the beauty of the stern.

[SawdustDave]

Nicely done on the re-do Toni. We've all "been-there-done-that". Believe me, I've done some real doozies.

Great looking paneled bulkheads and doors.

 

Dave