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Posted

Now fully assembled with most of the PE Brass installed.  Still working on installing the deck railings on the main deck. Some touch-up paint, apply decals.

 

Photos below: IMG_6669.JPG.5f526ec462f6667e4d4a2d8032c048c0.JPGIMG_6670.JPG.b4285b00658a4f523f88c35220721a58.JPGIMG_6672.JPG.efa6d62c2a31fbad4f4adcd8dd088429.JPGIMG_6671.JPG.97e2f035c79f555be15700572a8bcd83.JPG

Posted

Looking good, Jack.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted (edited)

Nice job Jack. The camo really makes her stand out while still looking authentic.

Edited by lmagna

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

That's a quicky, mate. If you want to touch up brasswhich has been added to your build you might want to use Liquid Surface Primer from Tamiya to cover the brass first and then add the colour. I like the stern part of the ship, there is quite a lot to see.

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted
2 hours ago, cog said:

you might want to use Liquid Surface Primer from Tamiya

Thanks Carl, yes I had a lot of free time to work on it every day. RE: the primer - the only non-rattle can primer I have is Tamiya gloss white, I have to find some flat gray primer. I've tried the gloss white and it doesn't work to well.  The other problem I have is the paint filling in the gaps between the rails, even the rattle can primer does this and I spray from a distance and keep the can moving left to right as I spray but it still fills in the "holes" with paint.

 

1 hour ago, CDW said:

How did you like the Gator Grip glue for your photo etch?

Thanks CDW..   I found the Gator Grip worked well if the two pieces being mated were in a horizontal or near horizontal plane but not so well in a vertical plane. Example;  trying to attach the ladder to the mast the Gator Grip did not hold long enough to set, the ladder kept falling over. Same with the railings around the upper and lower decks. The Gator didn't have enough holding power to keep them vertical until the glue set, so I had to resort to medium CA for these brass parts. Otherwise it was pretty good.

 

General comment on painting - I'm still trying to work out the right combination of paint to thinner for my airbrushes - so far all I get is a clogged brush so I resorted to hand brushing the past 3 models. Still working on the airbrush.  All of the plastic Armor (Tamiya kits) I did before were done with Floquil paint which was easy to mix (for me at least), these acrylics are a bit more difficult (for me) but they do brush on nicely.  I'm also experimenting with different brands.

Posted

I used Lifecolor Acrylics for my Warspite build  and brush painted all the top and hull with them,  my tips for this was diluting the paint 50/50%  with distiled water - then apply thin layers that at first look patchy,  a dried inbetween layers and soon the thin layers smoothed  out with a good flat layer.

 

My rules to myself was  - to work in controled areas,  not to load too much paint onto the brush,  keep the area to be painted clear from dust (drying with a hairdryer helped this),   and not to go back over an area when it was  becoming tacky during its drying.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

With Vallejo I thin even the Model Air. I'd rather spray an additional layer than having to unclogg the brush. Tamiya I thin down 50%, same reason. I only use the brand's thinner. I am still working out how I can spray lifecolour, since I can't get it to work properly with my brush H&S or Black Bull both gravity brushes

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

As a thinner for Tamiya paints as well as the Mr Hobby/Mr Color line of paints, you will not find a finer thinner than this:

https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/

It's fabulous. Mix 50-50 with the paint.

 

As an alternative, use common rubbing alcohol (60% alcohol or higher) as a thinner. Works well with Tamiya paints and I use it all the time for a quick drying time. Mix 50-50. Cheap and easy to find.

Posted
Posted

OC, Carl, CDW,  thanks for the info.  

 

OC, I use LifeColor too , don't dilute like you do but  I do dilute with tap water,  I put a small amount of paint on a pallette, dip the brush in water then mix with paint till I get the consistency I want, then brush onto  model. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

OC, Carl, CDW,  thanks for the info.  

 

OC, I use LifeColor too , don't dilute like you do but  I do dilute with tap water,  I put a small amount of paint on a pallette, dip the brush in water then mix with paint till I get the consistency I want, then brush onto  model. 

I diluted in the jar  - if you have an empty jar I just put half the original paint in and top up with distiled water, then just thoroughly mixed it, that way I have a half jar of un diluted for small areas than need a thicker bit of paint, and a full jar  - diluted.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted
On 3/1/2019 at 2:22 AM, RGL said:

What’s next?

I think I'm going to reduce the stash by building the 2 Testors/Italeri kits of the F117A and F19 Stealth Fighters which have been sitting on my shelf for ages, then I'll go back to boats. ;):D

Posted
15 minutes ago, Jack12477 said:

I think I'm going to reduce the stash by building the 2 Testors/Italeri kits of the F117A and F19 Stealth Fighters which have been sitting on my shelf for ages, then I'll go back to boats. ;):D

Now they will be cool  - what scale are they?

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted
  • 4 months later...
Posted

 Jack -- just happened to pick up the build on the England -- great job -- but my comment is on your picture of a Corgi -- I've seen it on several other build logs and always wanted to ask. I know this is WAY off topic -- do you have a Corgi? I've had three, lost the last one last November and still grieving over him. I've developed OCD -- Obsessive Corgi Disorder -- having had the three, so just curious as to yours. 

 

Thanks.

 

Allen

Posted (edited)

Hi Allen, off topic is okay! 

 

Yes, the photo in my Avatar is a Corgi. She is female, age 13, classic Corgi coloring red and white. We got her as a 6 month old puppy directly from a breeder.  At the time we got her she joined our 2 other Corgis, a 6 year old male and 6 year old female,  bringing the pack to 3 . The older two were semi rescues, we got them from 2 different breeders who stop breeding them at age 6. Both were black headed tri-colors with predominately black bodies, a rare coloring.  So we had a male and two females, all neutered of course. The male lived to age 16, the female to age 14. We had another red and white female, a "true"  rescue at age 6 but she died after 2 years of a rare muscle cancer, so we got 2 more. We have had 4 in total.  The male came first, then the female rescue who died, then the 2 females.  It was great fun having 3 at one time, especially when we went to Corgi gatherings with 2 black headed tri-colors in tow, both from different breeders and blood lines.  Made a lot of the breeders a little jealous that we had two black headed tri- colors,  a male and a female.

 

   [For the non-breeders, to get a tri-color Corgi takes a recessive gene in one parent ; to get a black headed tri-color takes a double recessive gene in both parents. As I recall from talking to the breeders who sired our dogs]

 

Here's photos of the 4 Corgis

 

Derby (male)

009_6.JPG.a4b06b87306a7c12e63ebfa63a491780.JPG

Pepper (female - died of cancer 2 years after we got her)

019_16.JPG.938b9f845b494c06484d8951f22a93d3.JPG

Fini (female)

 

IMG_0058.JPG.e42b299dcd04e15040a4467b648a0c8b.JPGIMG_0060_2.JPG.98cd3dbe7c144000cd62d0704b948496.JPG

 

Sunny (last of our Corgis - still with us)

 

IMG_1737_1.JPG.d78678d511c052397ef1b02a0875d56b.JPG

That's her 7 inch cloth frisbee by her front feet

Edited by Jack12477
Posted
Just now, cog said:

That explaines a lot ... Jack has a dog, you have labs :)

LOL

 

Greg, our 3rd Corgi Fini was actually of New Zealand blood line, bred to NZ/UK breeding standards. She was shipped to a breeder on US west coast then to another breeder (partner) on east coast.  She was much smaller than those bred to US standard. She never got past 20 lbs US in weight, whereas the others were 25-30 lbs US in weight. We got her from the east coast breeder at age 6.

Posted
15 hours ago, RGL said:

For the first time I actually have a stash! Im hoping they release a USS Langley but I have two little kits I bought off e-bay to do in shore leave. 

Iron Shipwrights makes a resin USS Langley in 1/350 scale.

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted
22 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

Iron Shipwrights makes a resin USS Langley in 1/350 scale.

which is very expensive, all resin models are unfortunately

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted

Yes, that’s the unfortunate part.

 

 I was looking at Taubman’s a while back.  They have a plan set for the Langley.  I thought about doing a POB scratch build of it.  It is on my eventual to-build list.

 

I’ve wanted one ever since I saw the model at the NAS Pensacola Museum.

 

That would be an awesome build!

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

Posted (edited)
On 3/1/2019 at 7:56 AM, CDW said:

As a thinner for Tamiya paints as well as the Mr Hobby/Mr Color line of paints, you will not find a finer thinner than this:

https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/

It's fabulous. Mix 50-50 with the paint.

 

As an alternative, use common rubbing alcohol (60% alcohol or higher) as a thinner. Works well with Tamiya paints and I use it all the time for a quick drying time. Mix 50-50. Cheap and easy to find.

I paint alot with enamels but am using some acrylics but your 50/50 is my rule sometimes a touch thinner not much.A modeler on another site who does A/C and the best painter I know used Tamy acrylics alot and said your consistency should be that of milk.Nice build!and not an easy scheme.

Edited by Javlin

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