Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates

[druxey]

It is very interesting to see your process of prototyping a kit, Chris. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[chris watton]

Cheers!

 

Looking at the nice clear stand, I think it will get scratched/marked too much whilst in the building process. To remedy this, I have just added a slightly simpler cradle to one of the 3mm MDF sheets, so the modeller can use this when building, and then change the stand for the clear acetate version when all done.

 

ETA - Ply gun port patterns have been clamped, pinned and glued in place, so will have to leave it until tomorrow now..

Edited July 5, 2019 by chris watton

[BenD]

This is really cool that we can see this process.  I've been reading a lot of your posting and see that you have the laser cutting outsourced by a company, Don't feel brave enough to get your own?  

[Malcolm Greig]

Excellent posts Chris, you really are an expert. I very much enjoy your posts and the comments of other followers.  Your speed and volume of work is amazing.  

[chris watton]

12 hours ago, Duncbe said:

This is really cool that we can see this process.  I've been reading a lot of your posting and see that you have the laser cutting outsourced by a company, Don't feel brave enough to get your own?  

Thanks! regarding a laser machine, I could get out a large loan and get one, along with the workshop space I would need to rent, as I am not sure I would be allowed to have one in my garage with the noise 24/7 in a residential area. Nothing to do with being brave, more to do with economics. I would rather invest my (little) money in stuff like decent materials, resin castings and nice printing. It may surprise you to learn that even some of the largest manufacturers sub contract their laser cut work, and as far as I know, due the chemical process, all photo etched parts are sub contracted.

10 hours ago, Malcolm Greig said:

Excellent posts Chris, you really are an expert. I very much enjoy your posts and the comments of other followers.  Your speed and volume of work is amazing.  

Thank you, although I hesitate to be called expert, I see a lot of stunning work on these forums.

 

OK, this morning (got up very late..), I took off the clamps and pins holding the gun port patterns in place, the basic structure is now more than strong enough to take the planking, with the stern especially being a lot more protected than my first prototype. I think the only way to break any part now would be to drop it from a height onto a hard floor. It has taken a day's work to get to this stage, but perhaps 3 hours work, as most of the time was taken was waiting for the PVA glue to cure.

 

On the last photo, I added a series of small marks under each gun port. I have since deleted these, but I am wondering if I should reinstate them, as they are markers for the curve and height on the main wale, and where the second planking should start.

 

The last pics are from the first prototype, where I just slapped everything together to check that everything aligned as it should and the various openings for bitts and masts were fine. If you look at the stern frames, they come further down the deck than the second prototype, I thought they were too obtrusive, so shortened them as much as I dared without compromised structural integrity.

 

Also, I have the cast resin cannon ready for the prototype model, the 4 pounder and half pounder. The first 50 kits will be this colour, but after this they will be cast in black resin (why didn't I ask for black resin to begin with, dammit)!

[chris watton]

Right, Just reinstated the little lines denoting the upper edge of the main wale, and also added the location holes for the inner bulwark cleats on the gun port patterns. Also, added more tabs to the rabbet line on the prow. These are now the kit versions.

 

Also attached is one of the 6 50x70cm sheets for masts (already done), yards and rig, before being imported into Adobe InDesign for text and other stuff..

[chris watton]

Today, well, this afternoon, I started and finished the first planking, no drama. Will leave until tomorrow to sand it so it looks a lot more presentable...

[Edwardkenway]

Chris, 

I'm hoping that this will be my next project  as I've always liked the look of brigs of war and Speedy was definitely warlike. I don't know when I'll be getting it as my house is a one in one out house. So I've got finish Sherbourne first

Cheers keep up the good work.

[James H]

You're a machine.

 

That's looking real impressive.

[chris watton]

4 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

Juat a query  Chris  - I notice that your lower strip curves away from the keel at the stern.

Is it the pic angle or is that the way you do it ?

It does, no need to plank the whole of the false keel area as the second planking will cover it. if I planked the whole lot, all I would end up doing is sanding it all back off again.

[chris watton]

First planking sanded, ready for second planking. Won't win any prizes for planking perfection, but more than good enough for the basis for second planking, which I will do in Tanganyika for this one.

 

I think the toughest part of the build (for me at least) is trying to sort out the best way of doing the very fine vertical 'V' shaped headrails. They are only 1mm wide according to the original plans, and I hate having to make things like this too thick. With that in mind, I did two separate designs for the 'V' rails in 0.6mm PE (the two sets of long patterns in the PE pic), and in the other pic, I was trying one type last night (nothing glued, just checking everything connected as they should) On the real thing, these 'V' frames must have been nothing more than very 'scanty' timbers connected to the prow and headrail. I would like to keep that delicate look  if possible.

[chris watton]

Yesterday I did most of the second planking, using Tanganyika, and this morning sanded the hull smooth.

 

Next I will remove the inner bulkhead tabs and add the deck and planking the inner bulwarks. But not today, work soon...

[chris watton]

Last post before work..

 

Bulkhead tabs removed and sanded flush with top edge of deck, and some parts painted red before the pre cut and laser engraved deck is glued in place.

 

This is the time where you chose to use this deck or want to plank it yourself...

[ccoyle]

I continue to marvel at how fast you can put these together -- quite the opposite of how my own builds typically go (lack of dogged persistence in my case). It sheds light on how you were able to rapidly expand the line-ups at JoTiKa and Amati.

 

 

[chris watton]

Cheers! I never intended to do another Speedy, but just do this one up to a certain stage, but realised I could not due to the first prototype showing the stern board glued into position after the second planking was complete. So have no choice but to carry on with this one. Perhaps  I will finish the other (pear wood) version as Speedy's sister, Flirt.

 

I did think it a mistake to not fix the keel, stern post and prow in place yet, but feel the prow will be vulnerable until all hull planking is finished and sanded - and I cannot add the keel and stern post until the prow is in place.

 

Planking the inner bulwarks next. Using single strips will be tricky, as the stern is closed off so planks need to be perfect in length. A better solution may be to cut the single planks in half and glue one at the front to half way, and measure up and glue the other half from the stern to the end of the front plank.

 

If I were building this for a commission, or for myself as a display model, I may take more time, but I just need to build it to look decent for box art. Plus, I know that if I can build it this quick without much trouble, slap it together, as it were, then almost anyone will be able to build it. I have seen what some of you guys can do, and it's much better than some of my efforts.

[chris watton]

When I got home from work this morning, before going to bed, I glued the deck in place, so it had plenty of time to cure. This morning, I planked the inner bulwarks, painting the planks first (although they will need painting again), so I have a nice clean line between deck edge and lowest plank on the bulwark.

 

I will now mask off the deck, as it will be so easy to damage it, and then sand the inner bulwarks smooth and re-paint after filing out the sweep and gun port openings.

[Kurt Johnson]

Chris, Any idea when the Alert stern frames will become available?

 

Kurt

[jimvanlan99]

I may have missed something here.  Do we need replacement Alert stern frames in order to proceed with the building of Alert?  Chris, I seem to remember that you said you had 100 kits made one way. Are you planning to replace the stern parts for everyone who bought the first 100 kits?  Jim

[chris watton]

I haven't received the MDF stern frames yet. As soon as I have them, I will post them off.

 

I suspect that most stern frames will be fine, but some may break. If the stern counter and stern board are glued sooner rather than later to the frames, they should be fine. I have put one together using the limewood parts myself, and I had no problems - but I am sure some will have problems, which is why I did actually specify MDF for these parts, and am not happy I was sent these parts in limewood.

[jimvanlan99]

Chris,  Thank you for this.  I was not aware that you planned to send MDF stern replacement parts out.  You are providing first-rate service, and I cannot think but that your endeavor with this new company is going to be a raging success.  Jim

[Morgan]

I’ve had no problem with the Limewood parts (17/18/19), as suggested by Chris I fitted them to frame 10 before fitting frame 10 to the longitudinal frame, immediately on gluing them to frame 10 I immediately installed frame 10, with parts 17/18/19 fitting nicely in to the slots on frame 9. I’m not sure that at this scale if they are made of MDF they will be any stronger.

 

Gary

[chris watton]

14 minutes ago, Morgan said:

I’ve had no problem with the Limewood parts (17/18/19), as suggested by Chris I fitted them to frame 10 before fitting frame 10 to the longitudinal frame, immediately on gluing them to frame 10 I immediately installed frame 10, with parts 17/18/19 fitting nicely in to the slots on frame 9. I’m not sure that at this scale if they are made of MDF they will be any stronger.

 

Gary

Cheers,

I didn't think these stern frames would be an issue, as I know that when they are in place, the stern counter is then glued in place onto them, leaving only the 'stubs' of the frames showing. originally, and when building the prototype, the upper parts that the upper stern board fits to were the full height of the stern board. But I shortened them to the height of the hull planking instead, as I knew they would be too easily broken. I think I photoshopped mine for the construction pictures in the manual, so they appear shorter.

 

I do not think I be adding the slotted rabbet line on all future kits after Speedy, though, seems to be more trouble than it's worth

[chris watton]

For Speedy, it's been boring stuff like painting the inner bulwarks red. Still use a mix of Humbrol for the red, so takes a lot longer to dry between coats.

 

Planking complete, along with main wale, and have just added the prow. I have added a few 'alignment jigs' with the 3mm MDF to help ensure the prow remains straight whilst the glue cures - nothing worse than a wonky prow!

 

Like the Alert, the keel is not completely straight at the bottom, but has a slight curve..

 

I think I shall leave the masking tape over the deck for as long as possible.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 12, 2019 by chris watton

[CWG]

I'm very happy you are offering a precut laser engraved deck.  I hope you continue to offer that option for your future releases.

[chris watton]

Just received some pics of the painted Cochrane figure, Nelson is next.

 

I am just copper plating at the moment...

[BenD]

That turned out really good.  Who ever you got to paint this did a fantastic job.

[chris watton]

1 minute ago, Duncbe said:

That turned out really good.  Who ever you got to paint this did a fantastic job.

A professional model figure painter, the guy who does my resin castings put me in touch with him. At least now I have pictures for proper paint reference. I think the Nelson figure is being done next week.

 

About 75% done for the copper plating for Speedy.

 

I did decide to not include the pre made stern post and prow plate patterns. I thought it would be a good idea to have these pre-made as they would give the correct waterline level both fore and aft, plus the ends would not have to be trimmed.

 

However, thinking on this some more, I decided against it (the circled patterns in the pic will not be in the kits), the plates still have to be trimmed, and I know that you need to trim them perfectly so as not to stand out too much where they meet between planking and keel/prow. This area could so easily turn into an eyesore. It is better to allow the plate to run fully to the edges, both fore and aft. (IMOHO of course..)

 

The copper plate rudder pattern, plus the slightly curved lower keel copper plates pattern are to be kept, however.

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

What adhesive do you use on the plates?

[chris watton]

1 minute ago, Jim Rogers said:

What adhesive do you use on the plates?

Cyano gel, just a dab in the middle.

 

One of those sheets of plates is enough to do one complete side plus another couple of rows of the other side, so two will be included.

[Kurt Johnson]

Figure looks great, especially for that small. That was my primary hobby years ago. The ones I painted were mostly 54mm. My Press Gang is looking forward to that 1/48 Jack Nasty Face!

 

Kurt