HM Cutter Alert by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post 54

Yards

There are four yards to be made.

T’gallant Yard, Topsail Yard, Square-sail Yard, and Spread-sail Yard.

The kit follows the dimensions of the drawings in the Alert Book.

There is a problem in correlating sizes to other sources as not all described yards are included.

The Adm Plan only includes the Topsail Yard (4’ shorter) and the Square-sail Yard (2’ longer)

I have decided to follow the yard dimensions as per the kit/Alert Book.

I start with the Spread-sail yard, the largest spar. Altho’ the kit instructions don’t cover the detail; the centre sections of most yards were octagonal in shape and for this reason I am making the yard from square stock.

4325

To form the octagon the yard is put in a ‘V’ jig and thereafter the arms are rounded on the lathe, tapering down to 2mm ø.

 

The Square-sail and Topsail yards are made in the same manner, but the T’Gallant is made simply from dowel as there is no octagonal section.

 

Not indicated in the kit but Alert carried a Mizen mast. This slots into iron brackets attached to the face of the stern platform.

4339

Simple enough to create one.

 

0095(2)

Made from 3mm ø dowel with a length of 170mm.

0086(2)

0091(3)

This won’t be displayed erected on the model but stored on the deck.

 

The yard furniture consists of Sling cleats and yard arm cleats, provided in brass etch form in the kit.

0101(2)

I initially had mixed feelings about the kit pieces; on one hand they are a neat and effective way of adding these items but look a little thin to my eye and will need painting.

On the other hand, making these items is a fiddly business, and only a wood like Box or perhaps Pear is suitable, and they are very tiny.

4362(3)

When I tried the etched items, I thought they looked ok, so the kit items it is. I chemically blackened them before use.

Had I intended to varnish rather than paint the yards, then the wood option would have been necessary.

 

One other item to consider is the addition of thin battens covering the octagonal sections.

To batten or not to batten, that is the question.

Goodwin in the Alert book writes that in ‘all probability’ the Square sail yard was made from two pieces and had battens; but was ‘not altogether certain’ that the Spread-sail yard was similarly made but thought it likely.

Lees indicates that the battening of yards which began in 1773 related to two-piece yards on larger ships, and that the practice was normal on most ships after 1805 except for small vessels.

David Antscherl also omitted them from the yards in his rigging book on the Sixth rate Sloop. (Vol 1V) I didn’t add battens to my Pegasus build.

Apart from some historical doubt and the absence of this feature on contemporary cutter models I have some reservations about adding these simply from an aesthetic viewpoint.

 At model level there is a tendency for them to make the yard centres look too bulky to my eye, even tho’ at 1:64 scale they would be a mere 0.3mm thick.

4360(2)

Even so out of curiosity I mocked up an example starting with some 0.5mm strip.

4359

I prefer the unbattened look and am happy to omit them on this build.

 

4361

Completed Spread-sail Yard.

4363(3)

The Yard set for Alert.

 

 

B.E.

14/01/2020

 

 

 

[Gregory]

Info about battens is very good to know..

[Blue Ensign]

Post 55

Finishing off the mast.

 

There are sheaves to be cut, cleats to be added, and the mast surface to be finished.

Below the cheeks are the rigging stops; these are what the shrouds and other tackle sit on.

 

The kit provides (4) etched cleats to perform this function, they are the same type as used on yard arms and look a little light weight to my eye. My concern is are they enough to stop slippage of the shrouds down the mast.

 

The Alert Book shows what is called a rigging stop (iron hoop) to perform this function.

It is very difficult to determine what was used from models as all the mast head tackle hides this support from view.

 

0115(2)

I opted for a hoop style rigging stop and fitted this 44mm below the trestletrees which is some 5mm lower than the kit plan.

I need to make sure that there is enough space to fit all the rigging between the stop and the cheeks. There are a dozen or more large diameter served lines seized around the masthead at this point.

 

At the base of the mast 7’ above deck (kit dimensions) is the saddle to support the jaws of the boom.

 

0105

I remade this out of Boxwood to add a profile.

I note that the Alert book drawings at 1:64 show the saddle only 5’4” above the deck (25mm) which barely clears the winch bitts.

 

At deck level the kit provides an octagonal ‘mast base’

 

 

0104

I built this up and covered it with microporous tape to represent the mast coat.

 

0113

 

The kit also provides an etched spider band placed below the saddle about 4’ above the deck.

 

0118

I’m not sure about this and I used cleats around the mast in preference. 5mm Boxwood cleats from Syren are spot on for the job.

 

Main Boom

 

I have already modified the jaws of the boom, but I preferred a stop cleat atop the boom for the sheet tackle.

0116(2)

Lees suggests that up to 1818 a ferrule and eye were fitted to the end of the boom and a sheave cut in about six inches from the end.

0130(2)

I adopted this arrangement rather than the kit set up.

 

Gaff

 

 

0124

As with the boom, the jaws have been modified and in the case of the Gaff the inner face is angled somewhat to suit the angle of the Gaff in normal use.

 

T’Gallant Mast

 

 

0121(2)

Two small detail additions are made to this mast; eyebolts beneath the mast cap, and the top rope sheave at the mast heel.

 

0109

Apart from the black painted masthead area, wipe-on poly is used to seal and enrich the colour of the birch dowel mast.

 

So, the full masting set is now complete, and the second build part can begin.

 

Once the mast is in place keeping the model dust free becomes more of a problem, so at this point I have ordered the case.

 

For a relatively small hull size the model case dimensions are quite large; Internally 750mm long x 555mm high x 280mm wide.

This is not very much smaller than the case for Pegasus but is explained by the lofty rig and long Bowsprit of Alert.

 

B.E.

17/01/2020

 

Edited January 17, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 56

Build Part two – Masting and rigging

Marking the seven month build stage of this fine little kit from  Vanguard Models.

4373

 The work bench is cleared of the detritus built-up over the past months in preparation for the second build stage.

4378

Ready to go now with the masting and rigging. 

 

B.E.

18/01/2020

 

 

[Rustyj]

Very nice work B.E. and your explanations are great! 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Rusty, I sometimes wonder if I give too much information in the log, but I use the text as an aide memoire to myself, I still refer to my previous logs as I often can't remember how I did things.🙄

If others find this stuff of use all the better.😃

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

Edited January 19, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[DelF]

Your explanations are why your logs are so useful to those of us with less experience. I usually pick up something new - most recently your use of microporous tape to simulate mast coats in Post 55. 

Keep up the good work!

 

Derek

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Derek, microporous tape is also good for stuff like canvas hatch covers, subject to size limitations.

Lots of domestic items find a home in my boatyard😉

 

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 57

Stepping the Mast

 

With the mast in place the rigging can begin.

I only lightly glue the lower mast in place, enough to hold it steady for rigging, but removeable if necessary.

The Topmasts I don’t glue; they should hold steady in place with a close-fitting heel and mast cap.

 

The first thing is to decide on the rigging sizes.

There are differences between the indicated kit sizes, and Steel’s tables for a 200-ton cutter, slightly heavier than Alerts 185 tons.

I will mostly be using Syren rigging thread supplemented by Morope polyester and possibly others for seizing and serving.

For the shrouds I am using Syren 0.88mm ø line which equates to a 7” circumference line and looks right to my eye.

In preparing the rigging I firstly dye the line, I use a dark Jacobean oak wood dye for this purpose, something I’ve used for many years. I then like to tension the lines for a day or so, I find they work better that way.

 

4379(4)

This is my jig for holding the lines taut; when I come to use them, they will be tension free and easy to work.

4380

In this photo the first line is the kit supplied black 0.75mm, the others are dyed Syren 0.88mm line.

 

Rigging starts with the pendent of tackles and shrouds.

The Alert book does not cover mast pendents except in the reproduced rigging tables by Steel, where they are listed as a 6” circ. line scaling to 0.75mm ø.

The other two major lines are the Mainstay and Preventer Stay, scaled at 1mm and 0.75mm in the kit.

Steel gives somewhat larger sizes scaling to 1.6mm and 0.8mm.

I opted for Syren 1.37mm and 0.88mm.

 

A step backwards

When I came to properly think about the rigging, I realised that I had made life difficult for myself by fixing the crosstrees at this point.

An oversight caused by being long used to having the rigging sit on top of the crosstrees, and not below them.

It means I cannot make the shrouds off the model and slip them over the mast head as I did with Pegasus.

Not too much of an issue if the rigging is to be basic and simply slipped around the mast and round seized, but when served lines are used and more attention to the seizing form is required it can be a tiring process.

 

It’s been three years since I rigged a model, so I’ll do a trial with the pendents of tackles, these are first over the masthead.

 

4383

For the pendents I used Syren 0.66mm line served with the kit provided 0.1mm natural line. The kit line is fuzz free, and I was interested to see how it performed as a serving line.

The pendents are served all over and have a 15” single block spliced into the lower end. This equates to 6mm block at scale, which seems quite large, but the pendent is used for hauling heavy stuff.

 

4387

Fitting the Starboard pendent, were I doing the job again I would remember not to glue the crosstrees in place.

0139

At least the tackle blocks can be fitted off the model.

0147

0143(2)

I could find no clear information on how far below the rigging stop the pendents hang so I have taken a punt at 80mm, about of a third of the way down to the deck.

0141(2)

It looks ok to my eye, and I’ll leave them be, certainly more tiring and awkward seizing them on the model, but preferable to the risky business of trying to unglue the crosstrees.

0142(2)

A lot more serving now follows as I begin the shrouds.

 

 

B.E.

20/01/2020

 

 

Edited January 20, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Dirk,

I thought about removing the crosstrees, but I am wary of damaging the mast, and the cheeks are treenailed into the mast.

 

I had already placed the stop double the kit distance down the mast, but this would not be such a problem to remove and lower further to suit the top hamper.

 

I am exorcised at present thinking about the serving of shrouds; Steel suggests that it is the aftermost shroud that is served all over, not the foremost shroud as is normal in square riggers.

SHROUDS, four pairs, are fitted and got over the mast-head, similar to those in ships. The after shroud on each side is wormed, parcelled, and served with spunyarn, down to the dead-eye.

I can't quite understand this, what would chafe the aftermost shroud, which in the case of Alert would be what is called a standing Backstay.

 

Did you have any consideration of this  when you were doing Sherbourne?

 

In the case of Alert, Goodwin notes the normal procedure of first shroud overall serving only.

 

Any thoughts?

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Dirk, that sounds the sensible route, fore shroud it is.😃

@ thank you Steve, I can't get my head around that one at all, on a cutter there is only the fore and aft mainsail at that point and to interfere with the backstay the main boom would have to be at 90 degrees to the hull, and would hit the running backstays to the T'gallant long before that.

Another mystery to skip over I think.😉

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Just a follow up Dirk, looking thro’ your Sherbourne log, I came across this photo of a 1763 cutter taken by tk11.

 

Looks to me like the aftermost shroud is served as per Steel’s writing.

 

Doesn’t get any easier this rigging accuracy lark🤔

 

B.E.

Edited February 5, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Ah yes, cheers Dirk, still can’t understand why the shroud is served, but perhaps can understand why the foremost one isn’t.🙂

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for the insight Steve.👍

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Frankie,  great painting of a cutter.

I can see the mainsail pressing against the Starboard running backstay, but that is a long way aft of the aftermost shroud which Steel noted as being served.

Interesting thought baggywrinkles at 1:64 scale, but I think as my Alert will be bare stick, I can dispense with the torment of reproducing those.😉

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 58

Fitting the shrouds

 

The biggest serving job relates to the fore shroud where the line is served overall.

I used Syren 0.88mm line served with the kit provided 0.1mm line.

Once served the line was re- dipped in the dye to darken it.

 

An afternoons’ work to prepare and serve the forward pair of shrouds Port and Starboard.

With the pendents and first two pairs of shrouds fitted I am in a better position to check the room necessary for the rest of the standing rigging.

 

I had made an estimation in the position of the rigging stop to allow for increased size of rigging due to extra lines and serving but this has proved insufficient to fit it all in.

The prospect of moving the stop down the mast was a little nerve jangling but with water and gentle tapping with a hammer this was achieved without drama.

 

4389

The top of the stop now sits 14mm below the cheeks as compared with 4mm on the kit plan.

Something to bear in mind if you intend to go off piste with the rigging, as Dirk found out and noted in a previous post.

 

0150

It proved less irksome than I had imagined seizing the shrouds atop the stop, but I’m thankful it is only a cutter I’m rigging.

 

0152

There is now sufficient space to accommodate the remaining  lines.

0148(2)

The last line in the set along the channel is the *lower mast standing backstay, effectively an additional shroud except the ratlines don’t cross it.

* Or is it – see subsequent post.

0155

0153

0156(2)

After this point the rigging gets confusing which will be the subject of my next post.

 

 

B.E.

22/01/20

 

 

Edited January 22, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 59

I wrote this mainly to help clear my own mind on the way to proceed on Alert, I have struggled to accept the validity of the standing backstay as depicted in the Alert Book.

 

The tricky business of  Cutter Backstays

 

 

A word about the Alert Book.

 

Those using the Peter Goodwin Alert book as the basis of the model, as reflected in this kit, will find there is some very confusing narrative once you proceed beyond the channel shroud rigging.

 

In the narrative it is stated that:

Contemporary evidence suggests that the Alert and Rattlesnake were modified to include a fifth pair of deadeyes either side for the standing backstay.

 

In order to facilitate this modification the third gunport had to be moved a short distance and the channels extended.

 

Running backstays were fitted to iron plates bolted to the ships side.

 

 

In drawing H4/1 this fifth set of deadeyes is described as relating to the Main Lower standing backstay

So far so good, but then………

 

In drawing H1 a further standing backstay is shown atop the other rigging running to the first iron plate and fitted with deadeyes.

Above this a running backstay pendent is shown with tackles fixed to the two aft iron plates.

 

When we come to the detail shot of the mast head in drawing H22/1 things change.

Here ratlines run across all five lines fixed to the channel described as shrouds.

Above this is a standing backstay, something not listed in Steel’s tables.

And atop this a running backstay.

 

Note: the only reference to backstays in Steel’s tables are to standing backstays to the topgallant mast which Goodwin notes in the Alert book as a Topgallant breast backstay (not necessarily standard at this time.)

 

It has been written about cutters of this period that there were many variations in the rigging set up, so there is probably not a clear answer.

 

When looking at the Alert there are several versions, and I have looked at them all. The versions of Alert depicted by Irving H Kingman, N. Roger Cole, Peter Goodwin, all differ in rigging arrangements but none of the cutter models ancient and modern that I have looked at, have this ‘standing backstay / deadeye’ arrangement attached to the foremost iron plate.

 

The Roger Cole model shows a familiar style of running backstay but has small stools to take the tackle set up rather than iron plates.

 

The Kingman model shows a double tackle arrangement to the backstay, which is similar to a model circa 1790.

 

 

In this case the aftermost iron plate is unused, but the Kingman model uses it for the standing part of the tackle.

This is also the rigging plan used by Lennarth Petersson in his book on rigging fore and aft craft.

 

There are other contemporary models to look at such as the well-known model of Hawke 1777.

 

3303

This is very much of the era of Alert and has simply the familiar style of running backstay atop the shrouds.

 

Given the conflicting information in the Alert book, and the absence of any other examples, on balance I think I will dispense with the standing backstay and its deadeye set up and rig a running backstay only.

 

 

B.E.

23/01/2020

 

Edited January 25, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Dirk, there's a distinct lack of  a deadeyed standing backstay.😉

 

Those prints are apparently from a set of four by John Kitchingman, (1740-1781) 

This one has a lot of interest too, altho' launching would have been a tricky business from that location.

 

 

It seem Kitchingman was a prolific artist covering a wide range of subject matters.

 

 

B.E.

Edited January 24, 2020 by Blue Ensign
additional information

[Blue Ensign]

Post 60

Continuing the mast rigging.

 

With the Standing backstay discarded I move onto making the Pendents for the Running Backstays.

4390

Seizing the pendent around the 5mm block, the stropping is also served using 0.1mm ø Morope.

At least this can be done off-model.

 

Around the masthead and for several feet the line is served.

4393

Having to seize the pendent on the model makes getting a matched pair a little more tricky, and the higher up you get the more tired your arms.

 

4396

For the second pendent I levelled the drop before seizing.

 

I can now test out the standing part of the running Backstay.

0169

For this I am using Syren 0.63mm line and a 9/32^nd Fiddle block also from Syren.

The standing part will have a thimble and hook attached to the aft iron plate, the line passes thro’ the pendent block and has the Fiddle block seized into its end.

 

The Irving Kingman model of Alert has an additional tackle seized thro’ the strop of the Running backstay pendent.

The Kingman model was featured in an NRG article in Vol 29, 1983 pp173-184.

4399

This extra tackle is also on a pendent with a 5/32^nd double block seized into the end. A tackle is then set up with a single 5/32^nd block hooked to the middle iron plate.

This arrangement neatly uses the three iron hull plates and I am tempted to follow his example, altho’ he acknowledges that some of the reconstruction of Alert is based on conjecture and therefore possibly not accurate.

0164

So, here’s a reproduction temporarily rigged on the portside of my Alert.

 

The other possible arrangement, and as seen on most cutters is as on the starboard side.

0170

This would follow the arrangement used on the Cole model, the Hawke model, and in the old prints kindly provided by Dirk in the previous post.

 

0172

So, it’s decision time, and I think I’ve done running backstays to death.

0177

I’m opting for the double tackle option, it has more interest, and as Alert was a large cutter a bit of extra tackle is probably in order.

0166

0176

I have at this stage fitted the boom, easier to get to before the shrouds are tied off.

I have also fitted temporary anchor cables; it is useful to find out how the cables lie and whether they foul any of the deck fittings.

 

B.E.

25/01/2020

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post 61

Blocks and strops around the Masthead

 

There are a number of blocks and strops to fit around the masthead for the yard ties, and other tackles.

I held-off fitting these before stepping the mast and fitting the standing rigging so I could better assess the pendent lengths and positions relative to the yards.

 

Atop the running backstays the pendent and strop for the Gaff jeer tackle block is fitted.

4418

A 4mm double block is stropped into the pendent.

4413

At the lower end a 4mm single block is hooked to the gaff.

 

4417

This now allows for the gaff and its tackle to be fitted to the model, temporarily secured at present in the lowered position.

 

Above this are the pendents and standing blocks for the Spread-sail and Square-sail yards.

I adopted the Alert book arrangement of hanging the Yard tye pendents from the mast head rather than follow the kit arrangement of having separate cleats to support the tyes at different levels down the mast.

 

However, once again there are inconsistencies in the Alert Book

Drawing H18/3 AND H22/1 show the spread-sail and Square-sail tye blocks in opposing positions.

 

I took the view that the longer Spread-sail tye pendent went over the masthead first.

 

4408

Seizing the pendent around the mast head.

 

4416

The tyes were made from 0.3mm ø served line stropped with a single 4mm blocks.

 

The final strop below the T’gallant mast is for the Topsail yard tye.

0180

0181

This fits between the trestletrees and is held in place by cleats on the Topmast head.

0179

The three standing tye blocks for the Topsail, Square-sail, and Spread-sail yards.

0187

0189

Now getting into a very messy stage with loose ends, there are still strops to make and the fitting of the horse to figure out.

 

 

 

B.E.

27/01/2020

 

 

Edited January 27, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post 62

 

Time to attach the shrouds

Not one of my favourite jobs stropping the upper deadeyes, but it’s that point in the build.

It’s a little more tricky stropping the deadeyes if the correct procedure is followed whereby the line crosses in front of the shroud with a cross seizing above the deadeye before applying two further seizings to the standing part.

0195

Fitting the cross seizing.

0200

Seizing the shroud ends.

0202(2)

The seized end lies aft on the Portside and forward on the Starboard side as shown above.

I note that the centre channel deadeye has twisted around, one of the benefits of macro photo’s is highlighting issues.

0204

I rig the shrouds alternatively starboard and port, setting the level with the foremost shroud. From that point onwards I set them by eye as I move along the channel.

I temporarily rigged a section of the rope guard rail as an additional guide.

0207

The seizings are yet to be dyed, I find it easier with my less than good eyesight to fit them in natural thread, better contrast against the dark shrouds.

I am using Morope 0.1mm line for the seizing, and Syren 0.3mm line for the lanyards. I won’t tie off the lanyards until later in the rigging process, when I will adjust the final tension.

 

0203

0210

0212

0215

0216

A sort of build milestone when the shrouds are rigged, but there’s still a long way to go in this build.

 

 

B.E.

29/01/2020

[DelF]

Very neat work on the seizings.

 

Derek

[Nunnehi (Don)]

Beautiful work! I’m really enjoying your log and learning from it - thanks for the details!

 

Don

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys, and thanks Don for looking in, glad you're finding the log of use.👍

 

B.E.

[stuglo]

really good work. Thanks for taking the trouble to share with us the process as well as the result

[Blue Ensign]

You’re welcome stuglo, and thank you. 

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 63

Completing the masthead blocks and raising the Gaff.

 

Standing blocks are required for the Boom topping lift and the Gaff Halyards.

0229(2)

These are stropped with served line using a 4mm block for the boom topping lift and 3mm blocks for the Gaff Peak halyards.

(The kit has them stropped to eyebolts in the masthead)

 

When it comes to the how and where elements of rigging the gaff and boom tackle things get a little more confusing.

Gaff

4421

Raising the Gaff.

 

The Gaff Throat Halyard or Gaff jeer tackle, as it is referred to in the Alert book is set up with the standing block secured around the masthead, with the tackle hooked to an eyebolt atop the gaff jaws, the fall being secured at the bitts. (behind the mast)

The kit instructions also show the fall secured to the bitts.

Steel calls this the inner tye, but describes a completely different set up.

INNER-TYE is similar to the outer tye, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the jaws of the gaff; then reeves through the lower iron-bound-block, that hooks to an eye-bolt in the aftside of the mast-head, below the rigging. It has a double-block bent to the lower end, and sets up by the haliards;, the lower block hooking to an eye-bolt on the opposite side to the other tye.

The Cheerful rigging plan shows this secured to the pin rack on the Portside.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.

 

0228

Throat halyard tackle attached to the gaff.

 

Peak Halyard

The Alert book indicates that the Gaff peak halyard tackle block is secured to the Portside channel but doesn’t indicate further where the tackle fall is belayed.

The kit shows the running end of the peak halyard belaying to the bitts without a tackle attached.

Steel calls this the outer tye and indicates that the halyard block is hooked to an eyebolt in the deck close behind the mast.

TYE, OR HALIARD, reeves through a block on the span, that clinches or splices round the middle of the gaff. The standing-part of the tye clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to an eyebolt in the mast-head: the other end reeves through a second iron-bound-block, hooked to an eyebolt in the mast-head, and at the lower end is the double-haliard-block, that does not splice as other haliards, but reeves through the strap, and makes fast with a hitch; and the remainder is expended in turns round the block and strap. The haliard-block connects by its fall to a single or double block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the deck, close behind the mast.

The Cheerful rigging plan shows this without a standing end with the halyards belayed to both the Portside pin rack opposite the mast, and to a cleat on the mast. Cheerful did however post date Alert by some thirty years.

 

I have opted to follow the Alert book arrangement with the tackle block hooked in the Portside channel the running end will be secured to a shroud cleat.

This at least keeps the tackle away from the boom.

0221

Upper end of the Peak Halyards.

04424

Connecting the block to the peak halyard using a ‘false’ splice.

0219

Lower end of Peak halyards tackle hooked to the Portside channels.

 

Boom Topping Lift

The Alert book has the standing part clinched around the boom end, runs up thro’ the standing block at the masthead, with a single block seized into the fall which is positioned at a level just short of halfway down the mast.

The tackle block is hooked to an eyebolt in the aft end of the  starboard channel.

The kit plan follows this arrangement with the running end secured to a cleat on the drift rail.

Steel has a slightly more substantial arrangement:

TOPPING-LIFT is taken upon the starboard-side, and reeved through the upper-block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the mast-head; then lead down and reeved through the block at the boom-end. The standing-part clinches round the mast-head, or hooks to the same eye-bolt; the leading-part comes down, and has a double-block spliced in, or turned, that connects by its fall to a single-block, and hooks to an eye-bolt in the after part of the channel, and belays to a pin in the shroud-rack. Sometimes it has the addition of a runner and sometimes rigged as the driver-boom in ships.

I have opted to follow the Alert book /kit arrangement.

 

Rigging the Topping Lift

For the lift I am using Syren 0.6mm line with a 4mm single block spliced into the end. The tackle is 0.3mm line, spliced into the strop of the lift, with the tackle running thro’ a 4mm single block hooked to the starboard channel.

This is slightly heavier tackle than shown on the kit plan.

0233

Topping Lift spliced around the boom end.

0234

Topping lift passing thro’ the masthead block.

0230

'Splicing' the block into the lift end.

0245

Tackle hooked to the Starboard channel.

0244(2)

Run of the Topping Lift.

0232

Not in any hurry to secure these lines yet, snagging lines that have been tied off can present problems, and there are endless opportunities for this to happen.

 

 

B.E.

02/02/2020

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

The kit does provide them Dirk, albeit in etched brass form,  which doesn't really appeal to me.

I may well retro fit a few, and I have a cunning plan to use the bored out centres of the mast rings provided in the Cheerful kit, just the right size, but they will need to be cut and re-joined.

ps;  in the kit instructions Chris has commented that they need not be added to a model without sails.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Needed or not, I agree they do add something to the build sitting atop the boom jaws, but that's for later, at the moment I am fully  engaged in a mousing exercise.😉

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post 64

 

Mainstay and Preventer stays  (Part One)

 

The kit uses 1mm and 0.75mm diameter line for the stays and has a simplified attachment around the masthead.

 

The line equates to an 8” circ line for the Mainstay and 6” for the Preventer stay. This seems somewhat under-weight, even the much smaller Sherbourne has respectively 9” and 5” cables indicated.

 

Steel indicates a 13” circ Mainstay and a 6½” circ Preventer Stay for a 200-ton cutter.

This equates at scale to 1.64mm ø and 0.82mm. ø

 

A 1.6mm ø line looked too heavy at scale to my eye, particularly when serving is added, so I opted for Syren 1.37mm line for the Mainstay and 0.88mm for the Preventer.

 

This was dyed and left under light tension until required.

 

0259(2)

To give a more authentic look the stays should be served around the masthead and along the stay for some six feet below the mouse, used to prevent the collar of the stays tightening around the masthead.

I served the Mainstay with the kit provided 0.1mm line.

 

Mouses

 

Mouse - Main Stay

L = 1/3 circ of stay = 3.96mm

ø = 3 x ø of stay =4mm

 

To make the Mouse for the Main Stay I used styrene tubing; a length of 3.2mm ø tubing inserted inside a length of 4mm ø tubing. This gives me the required external diameter whilst having an internal hole that fits the served stay.

 

0250

Testing the mouse fit on the stay collar.

 

In reality mouses were woven onto a stay, but as model makers we mostly use a solid core covered in line.

Ladies tights material is perfect for replicating the weave look particularly at smaller scales, but don’t get caught  rummaging thro’ her underwear drawer.

 

 

2395

The weave treatment is applied

 

0266(2)

A completed Mouse.

 

0280

Main Stay in place

 

Mouse - Preventer Stay

 

The Mouse is simply a smaller version of the Main Stay mouse.

L =1/3 circ of stay = 2.77mm

ø = 3 x ø of stay =2.64mm

For this smaller mouse I used 2.3mm ø tubing inserted inside 3.2mm ø tubing.

 

0253

The Preventer Stay Mouse before shaping.

 

0291(2)

Preventer stay mouse in place.

 

0288

I opted to place the mouses Mainstay (port), Preventer stay (Starboard)

 

0292

 

Part Two will cover the lower end attachments.

 

 

B.E.

04/02/2020

 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2020 by Blue Ensign