1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro by CDW - FINISHED - AMT - 1:25 Scale - PLASTIC

[CDW]

This should be a quick easy build. The 1970 1/2 Baldwin Motion Camaro was powered by a 454 cubic inch big block engine and a prime example of an American muscle car.

 

Here is a look at the box and the kit contents.

 

[Canute]

AMT did it in green plastic? I remember them normally in white. Guess since it's a Special. I'm in. front row.

[Jack12477]

Me too !

[Egilman]

Ah, there's my easy chair..... American Classic Muscle Car??    I'm here...

[CDW]

Thanks gentlemen, glad you're here.

The car body is disappointing. Hoped it would be a nice, retooled mold, but no dice. The top and the hood have some sink marks which I will spend a little time filling, but the location of the sink marks in the hood are in a real bad place, being right smack dab in the sheet metal roll where it shapes up to the induction cowl. One of the head lights is mis-shaped and will look odd. Oh well, it is what it is. Not going to try to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but will make it presentable as possible without spending an inordinate amount of time on it.

 

1 hour ago, Canute said:

AMT did it in green plastic? I remember them normally in white. Guess since it's a Special. I'm in. front row.

 

And an ugly green plastic at that. 😄 Don't know why they do that crap. 🤥  

[Edwardkenway]

Guess I missed all the chairs, looks like the rafters for me, I'm in too🙂

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

Guess I missed all the chairs, looks like the rafters for me, I'm in too🙂

Apparently Craig has set up a hammock  - but everyone is rushing for it.

 

OC.

[CDW]

Here are the sink marks where filler putty was applied then sanded down. 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Thats a good recovery mate.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

Welcome to the rafters Edward. I do have a spare hammock that is a perfect fit to stretch between two rafters. Quite comfy really. I'm in as always.

Edited December 4, 2020 by lmagna

[marktiedens]

Aah - a good old muscle car.   Makes me think about the 428CJ  Mustang I had back then - a real brute.   Not particularly great on a road course,but went really good in a straight line!

 

 

Mark

[Canute]

10 hours ago, CDW said:

Thanks gentlemen, glad you're here.

The car body is disappointing. Hoped it would be a nice, retooled mold, but no dice. The top and the hood have some sink marks which I will spend a little time filling, but the location of the sink marks in the hood are in a real bad place, being right smack dab in the sheet metal roll where it shapes up to the induction cowl. One of the head lights is mis-shaped and will look odd. Oh well, it is what it is. Not going to try to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but will make it presentable as possible without spending an inordinate amount of time on it.

 

 

And an ugly green plastic at that. 😄 Don't know why they do that crap. 🤥  

Those kits were pitched to kids, so less painting, I suppose.

 

I was a MOPAR guy in those days. My brothers in the frat had Chargers and Barracudas; my roommate had a 440 GTX. Me, a 68 Charger. Hot machines all.

[Landlubber Mike]

Great subject Craig, and nice save.  It's amazing how much better the molding is on newer kits compared with the ones from a few decades ago.  Too bad for cars like this you generally need to look at the older stuff.

 

1 hour ago, Canute said:

Those kits were pitched to kids, so less painting, I suppose.

 

I was a MOPAR guy in those days. My brothers in the frat had Chargers and Barracudas; my roommate had a 440 GTX. Me, a 68 Charger. Hot machines all.

 

I'm jealous!  I was driving my mom's old Nissan Sentra in grad school, and with three kids, I was driving a minivan for the last few years (though just bought myself an SUV).  I told my wife I'm getting a 60s-early 70s muscle car when I retire.  I'll be old and not single, but still worth it!

[popeye the sailor]

that was the initial aim of colored plastic.....a fair number of ship kits were even done in multi colored plastic.  it's not a bad thing,  but folks found that they had to prime their model before paint them the color they actually wanted.  I kinda like that color......rather close to a Brunswick Green.  hard to see the imperfection in the early pictures......the big thing I usually see are mould lines and pin marks   {usually in all the critical places}.

 

I know that price tag.....just can't place it.........HobbyTown perhaps   

[CDW]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

hard to see the imperfection in the early pictures......the big thing I usually see are mould lines and pin marks   {usually in all the critical places}.

 

I know that price tag.....just can't place it.........HobbyTown perhaps   

 

I couldn't catch the light just right to show the imperfections, but the sanded filler will give you an idea of how severe it was.

 

In these first photos, I am showing how I damaged the radius where the hood meets the car body/windshield area while I was sanding the putty that filled the sink marks. To repair the damage, I glued on a short length of plastruct plastic rod to the hood then sanded/reshaped the plastruct to reconstruct the radius. 

 

75% of the work to build a kit like this is preparing the body for paint, then priming and painting it. There are a lot of seams that need to be filled. primer will be applied, wet sanded, and primed again before finish paint is applied.

 

[CDW]

This is the primer/surfacer I'm using for this model. I mix it in a ratio of 3 parts paint : 7 parts reducer.

 

 

 

 

Here is the first coat of primer.

 

 

 

Here is the first coat after wet sanding. 2nd Coat of primer comes next. 

 

[CDW]

In the 2nd to last photo above, you can see the mold defect for the headlight. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, nor am I going to spend a lot of time trying to fix it. 

[Old Collingwood]

That looks fine, I can not see what you mention with the headlights  - I was thinking its got almost a Batmobile look especially in Black  with those sharp lines.

 

OC.

[CDW]

This is the 2nd coat of primer and a dry fit of the chassis/engine.

 

[CDW]

This is my main body color. Paint job will be two-tone, using black as the second color.

 

[CDW]

Here is the Argento Nuburgring sprayed over the black primer. It will get a clear coat.

 

 

 

[lmagna]

Looked like you were going for the Green Hornet Black Beauty look for a while there. Interesting choice of colors.

[Egilman]

Nice Color....

 

Sharp lookin car....

And an even better one....

There's your car, (except it's in dark green)

Now you know why it was molded in Green.....

Edited December 5, 2020 by Egilman

[CDW]

30 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Looked like you were going for the Green Hornet Black Beauty look for a while there. Interesting choice of colors.

 

Now you know why I primered it in black, but I thought you would have picked that up earlier. Black is the correct primer for any silver finish.

 

29 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Nice Color....

 

 

Sharp lookin car....

And an even better one....

 

There's your car, (except it's in dark green)

 

Now you know why it was molded in Green.....

 

The plastic looked horrible before paint. Green plastic could not hide the ugly of the imperfections in the plastic. Green plastic only makes it more difficult to cover it with primer unless you do it it black primer. That dark green plastic would have required a lot of primer to do it in white. I am not a big fan of colored plastic for that reason. 

Edited December 5, 2020 by CDW

[CDW]

I owned a '69 Chevelle that was painted in the same shade of silver.

[Egilman]

2 minutes ago, CDW said:

I am not a big fan of colored plastic for that reason.

Oh, I completely understand, and agree. Pick a color, white/grey plastic is best and teach people about proper primer coating....

[Old Collingwood]

Your doing some fine work there mate  despite the hurdles  - you always come out ontop.

 

OC.

[CDW]

3 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Your doing some fine work there mate  despite the hurdles  - you always come out ontop.

 

OC.

I wish that was always true, but thank you for the kind thoughts.

 

[mtaylor]

If you were going to make it strictly a drag car, you could put some filler or plastic over the headlight area then paint it.   Back, for just drag strip racing, a lot of guys did that.   

 

When I had my Vega strip car, I used run against a few of them.  The 454 was sweet motor that needed minimal work (cam, carburation/injection, pistons and valve work) to turn it into a beast.

[lmagna]

15 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

 I told my wife I'm getting a 60s-early 70s muscle car when I retire.  I'll be old and not single, but still worth it!

Did she reply with something like, "Are you sure about the not single part?" It may take you years of honey do's to gather enough points for a car like that.