American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper - Trumpeter - 1:25 Scale

[lmagna]

4 hours ago, CDW said:

I am wondering it it's supple enough to lay flat

Like EG says, I think you will find that an iron will do the trick. Just use a rolling pin on the metal stuff and then solder it here and there to make certain it stays flat. Speaking of soldering how about soldering wick?

 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chemtronics/50-6-25/306991?utm_adgroup=Desoldering Braid%2C Wick%2C Pumps&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Product_Soldering%2C Desoldering%2C Rework Products_NEW&utm_term=&utm_content=Desoldering Braid%2C Wick%2C Pumps&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoab_BRCxARIsANMx4S5RY_kIohU61_RDZmY9RG_NRLZohVNh_tW8JRx70sj1FWuMulvTDdcaAoJyEALw_wcB

 

Edited December 28, 2020 by lmagna

[kurtvd19]

Actually the hose jacket is canvas and the texture is not real rough - remember the firefighters need to be able to drag it and rough ='s hard to drag.  It is a heavier canvass than used on roofs of boats.  I just looked at the roll of solder-off in my shop and it's way too coarse.   The texture will not be very noticeable at 1/24 or 1/25.  Smoother would be less noticed than too rough.  I forgot that some FD's use extruded hoses - not in this area though - smooth except for the longitudinal grooves. 

 

Check this suppliers photos - https://www.edarley.com/fire-hose/

 

 They actually show yellow booster hose now!  Never saw any but it is made.

 

 

[CDW]

Okay, I put my thinking cap on and believe I may have come up with a solution for the hose. Going to do some more painting first, then experiment with an idea for scale hose. If some type of thin metallic flat stock was used to retain a flat shape, then covered with heat shrink, that just might make a convincing facsimile for fire hose. I have saved quite a bit of photo etch "sprues", and will try using them to cover with heat shrink to see how it looks. 

I could cut off some little sections of 1/8" ID brass tubing for the couplings.

Edited December 28, 2020 by CDW

[kurtvd19]

Try gluing or soldering the hose fittings to the metal before the heat shrink is added and make a smaller shoulder on the fitting for the heat shrink to grasp

[CDW]

Just now, kurtvd19 said:

Try gluing or soldering the hose fittings to the metal before the heat shrink is added and make a smaller shoulder on the fitting for the heat shrink to grasp

 

Great idea! 

Typically, what is the length of a single FD fire hose section? 

[Old Collingwood]

I have to say  - its Great having Kurt  sitting on on this build   -  Its an interesting build as It is  but also great having Kurt  chat on here 👍

 

OC.

[kurtvd19]

50 ft. 

 

I offer this as a realistic appearing option - that might be much easier and I myself wouldn't hesitate to use the technique.

Maybe they do it differently in other areas but every place I have ever visited and looked at fire apparatus the hose beds are covered by removable covers.  Water resistant to waterproof canvas covers with easy release snaps or tabs that need to be turned90 degrees to lock in that cover the hose bed side to side and end to end and then hang down at the rear so the hose stays dry on the outside.  Dirt in the canvas covering will mildew and get grungy if allowed to get wet w/o being allowed to dry out.  Packed in the hose bed it doesn't dry out.

 

Model the rear of the hose bed like the photo used earlier.  Make a cover that covers the hose bed and shows just a bit of the rear end that is packed in - using about 10% of what you would need to fill the entire area.  Use a Styrofoam block behind the hose to "fill the bed"

 

Just like using a canvas cover on a life boat so you don't need to detail the interior.

 

[CDW]

Just now, Old Collingwood said:

I have to say  - its Great having Kurt  sitting on on this build   -  Its an interesting build as It is  but also great having Kurt  chat on here 👍

 

OC.

 

I agree 100%

 

Just now, kurtvd19 said:

50 ft. 

I offer this as a realistic appearing option - that might be much easier and I myself wouldn't hesitate to use the technique. 

 

Maybe they do it differently in other areas but every place I have ever visited and looked at fire apparatus the hose beds are covered by removable covers.  Water resistant to waterproof canvas covers with easy release snaps or tabs that need to be turned90 degrees to lock in that cover the hose bed side to side and end to end and then hang down at the rear so the hose stays dry on the outside.  Dirt in the canvas covering will mildew and get grungy if allowed to get wet w/o being allowed to dry out.  Packed in the hose bed it doesn't dry out.

 

Model the rear of the hose bed like the photo used earlier.  Make a cover that covers the hose bed and shows just a bit of the rear end that is packed in - using about 10% of what you would need to fill the entire area.  Use a Styrofoam block behind the hose to "fill the bed"

 

Just like using a canvas cover on a life boat so you don't need to detail the interior.

 

 

Yes, exactly right...no need to go crazy making hose, just enough to show it's there with the cover over the rest. Thanks!

[CDW]

Will have to give this paint some time to cure before I apply chrome trim, accessories, interior, and decals. In the back of the cab where it's got the diamond plate texture, will mask that off and paint it aluminum. The decals will be as per the box art. I received some alternate decal lettering for Philadelphia, Scranton, and Baltimore, but I prefer the quality of the kit decals, College Park. The alternate decal sheet appears too small, out of scale. Maybe it's 1:32 scale instead of 1:24 scale. 

 

 

[CDW]

[CDW]

Even the greatest fisherman don't always catch the big fish, but it's perseverance and patience that marks their character.

Two of my grandsons yesterday.

 

[lmagna]

They were probably just as excited as if they were reeling in Jaws when the fish grabbed the hook!

[CDW]

Just now, lmagna said:

They were probably just as excited as if they were reeling in Jaws when the fish grabbed the hook!

 

These boys have caught big fish and do it fairly regularly.

 

[Canute]

Fish fry anyone? Well done by the lads.👍

[CDW]

The kit has a basic interior. For the most part, it cannot be seen while sitting on the shelf so I chose not to spend a lot of time trying to detail it all out. It's painted in a two-tone gray. Notice that some of the seats have the hollow seat backs so the fire fighters can be seated with their breathing apparatus on their backs.

 

[CDW]

On a sour note...I just found out my front two windshield pieces don't fit properly. Seems one is warped quite a bit and the other is warped as well but not as badly. Not sure exactly how I will tackle this problem but I have to find a way to fix it. It's always something.

[Edwardkenway]

That's not great Craig, would a gentle heat take the warp out? Otherwise it's looking good!

 

[Canute]

That is a bummer. Like Edward says, maybe a little heat?

[CDW]

Just now, Edwardkenway said:

That's not great Craig, would a gentle heat take the warp out? Otherwise it's looking good!

 

 

Just now, Canute said:

That is a bummer. Like Edward says, maybe a little heat?

 

 

That may work. Clear plastic is very brittle and these are particularly thin. working a heat source trying to woo them into shape is risky. Once the paint on my coachwork is thoroughly dry, I may rather try masking them tightly in place while glue dries. I can force them into place, but it will take the glue to hold them in place afterward. 

[Egilman]

Even heat and gentle massaging of the kit parts or replacement with thin flexible acrylic.... You should be able to bend the acrylic around the warped pieces to get the right shape, and you can pressure bend them into the right shape for gluing....

 

The other option for creating windshields is again using clear acrylic to make the replacements, the same as above, using .005 styrene rod or quarter round, build a frame around the opening and then install the flexible acrylic windows just like the real thing.... paint the styrene frames rubber to look like the black gasket that is used in real life to install them.....

 

Two best suggestions I have used.....

[popeye the sailor]

soaking them in hot water should soften them enough to flex the warp out.......direct heat will deform them.  I hope you can fix 'em.......the model is coming along nicely........great job!  

[CDW]

I used rubber bands to hold/force the windscreen panels into shape, seated against the frame rails then cemented them in place with liquid cement. It worked well with the only casualty when some cement found it's way onto one of the rubber bands due to capillary action then slightly defaced one windscreen. I think I can polish most of that out, but the windscreens themselves are in place and not warped now.

I can relax a bit now. Replacement parts from Trumpeter have to come through Stevens International (USA Distributor), and they are well known for their lack of customer support/service. In other words, fuggitaboutit. 

[CDW]

Off-Subject BUT, Does anyone know...did DeAgostini Model Space in the USA go out of business? All I can find now is their website in the UK.

But I did find now there is a USA website that is associated with Hachette: Agora Models

https://www.agoramodels.com/us/bismarck/#buy-bismarck

 

They run a business model similar to DeAgostini.

[Old Collingwood]

34 minutes ago, CDW said:

Off-Subject BUT, Does anyone know...did DeAgostini Model Space in the USA go out of business? All I can find now is their website in the UK.

But I did find now there is a USA website that is associated with Hachette: Agora Models

https://www.agoramodels.com/us/bismarck/#buy-bismarck

 

They run a business model similar to DeAgostini.

Wasn't they related somehow perhaps?

 

OC.

[CDW]

30 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Wasn't they related somehow perhaps?

 

OC.

 

That's possible, but I never heard or read that anywhere. Their products were exclusive to each company. I always wanted Hachette items, but could not get them in the USA.

[Egilman]

11 hours ago, CDW said:

Off-Subject BUT, Does anyone know...did DeAgostini Model Space in the USA go out of business? All I can find now is their website in the UK.

But I did find now there is a USA website that is associated with Hachette: Agora Models

https://www.agoramodels.com/us/bismarck/#buy-bismarck

 

They run a business model similar to DeAgostini.

https://www.model-space.com/us?gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD_5t0iACEvoeqkMW88xkqZHz7OWKNNJd0DqOIIIrHVdqnwluCXIGyRoCm3oQAvD_BwE

[CDW]

Just now, Egilman said:

https://www.model-space.com/us?gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnD_5t0iACEvoeqkMW88xkqZHz7OWKNNJd0DqOIIIrHVdqnwluCXIGyRoCm3oQAvD_BwE

 

This is interesting. I opened a different browser and then this link worked for me. Before that, the browser I currently use most often gave an error message when I tried to open that link. That's why I was asking if DeAgostini had gone oob.

[CDW]

Working to lay down the decals then will work on all the small details that cover the engine.

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Fantastic work!  

[CDW]

Slowly getting there on the cab. Just a little more and the cab will be done.